Weeds can be quite a nuisance in the garden, so here are some techniques for ridding your garden of these problematic plants.
Mulch:
Mulch is a covering that blocks daylight and inhibits growth under it. Cover the soil between your plants and along rows. Keep the mulch a few inches from the base of your plants to also discourage insect invasions. For mulch, you can use materials such as wheat straw, shredded leaves, or other organic matter. Layer it on the ground about 2 inches thick.
For persistent or numerous weeds, try covering the area with dampened newspaper (black ink only) and then cover with 2 inches of mulch. Around the bases of trees and shrubs, consider covering the ground with landscape fabric and then mulch.
Cover Crop:
In some situations, you can use a cover crop to block weeds. See our list of cover crops suitable for growing in various regions of the U.S. and Canada.
Pull:
For better or worse, you need to manually pull out most weeds. Wear waterproof gloves and consider a comfortable sitting pad for extensive weeding. The trick to pulling weeds is to get the root out as well. Weeds will slide out of the soil easier when the soil is wet—and when the weeds are young. Pull the weed from its base (close to the soil line); if you miss the root, try using a fork to gently pry the plant out of the ground, roots and all.
See our list of common weeds to help identify what's growing in your garden.
Dig:
If your weeds regrow, then you have a persistent root that you need to dig out. Use a spade or digging fork to dig up persistent weeds by the roots. Remove as many root pieces as you can.
While weeding, hold the trowel vertically (like a child holding a crayon) to eliminate strain on your wrist.
Chop:
If digging out weeds is difficult for you, at least resolve to keep them from setting seed. Chop off their heads once a week!
Minimize Soil Disruption:
Gardeners used to advocate cultivation—stirring the top one or two inches of soil to damage weeds' roots and tops, causing them to die. However, unless you are able to fully remove the roots from the soil, cultivation seems to simply expose dormant weed seeds to light and air, awakening them. It may be best to preserve the natural soil layers.
Some folks say it helps to turn your soil at night to control weeds. Research indicates that weeds may be stimulated to grow by a sudden flash of light, which is what you give them when you turn the soil over during the day. A German study concluded that by turning the soil at night, weed germination could be reduced by as much as 78 percent. You can try this method by working during a moonlit night, or at dawn or dusk.
Trim:
Keep the edges of your garden mowed; this will help prevent a weed invasion.
Close Ranks:
If your soil is rich and well tilled, plant your plants closer together. This will cut down weed growth.
Start your warm weather plants as soon as you can, to keep the soil from being bare for too long. At the end of the season, plant cover crops such as rye grass, winter wheat, or oats to prevent weeds from finding a home in your garden.
Cut Them Off at the Pass:
Encourage weeds to grow before you plant your garden. Lay sheets of clear plastic over your garden in early spring to warm up the soil and encourage weeds to germinate. Once the weeds are several inches above the soil, pull or hoe them out. Then plant your own crops.
Use Drip Irrigation:
If you can irrigate only the plants that need it, you may avoid the cultivation of weeds in unplanted areas, paths, and areas where they are not welcome.
Eat Your Weeds!
Yes, some weeds—lamb’s quarters, amaranth, purslane and others—are edible when young and tender. See our post, "Eating Weeds: Why Not?"



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Comments
By sharon t on May 5
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I have been trying to get rid of a grass that keeps growing through the root system in my flower beds. I have tried everything to get rid of it. What would happen if I took out all my plants and roto tilled it and raked it up from there and put a weed preventer on it then. I just cant get rid of them not even with 4 inches of mulch.
By sunshinesue on April 21
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Trying to get weeds at early stage before plants start growing. Also live in michigan near grand rapids. Have a question on what kind of vinager disstelled or apple.
By David Spector
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To kill weeds quickly without danger, spray plain vinegar (5% acetic acid) on their leaves. Use a shield or caution not to spray leaves of valuable plants, because they will die. Spray when the weeds are most thirsty, and when rain is not expected. Add some dish detergent to make the solution soak into leaves better. Works everywhere, works well.
By Happy Loc
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We have purchased 4 acres in the country. The property is mostly all pasture grass. Can you tell me if that will affect our garden? If so, please give advice on how to get rid of this. Also, we are wanting to plant grass around our house. What is your advice on removal of this pasture grass.
By Almanac Staff
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If you wish to turn part of a field or farmland into a garden, here is an article on how to restore the soil to make it productive: http://www.almanac.com/content/reclaiming-your-garden-soil
By Hyland
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Over the past few years our 50 acre field has slowly been taken over by Foxtail. We do not like to use sprays on our fields. Any suggestions on how to get rid of it before it takes over completely. Thanks
By Almanac Staff
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Foxtail is very hard to get rid of. One suggestion we received from a reader is to plant Sudan grass. It will eventually crowd out the foxtail. Call your local extension service and see if they have advice for pasture management.
By Biffer
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I was just wondering, would putting barks in the garden help control weeds? As I can't do weeding anymore as I have medical problems.Can someone help me here. Thank you
By Almanac Staff
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We haven't found anything on using bark in soil. However, make sure that there are no blooming seeds in the soil (e.g., dandelions) because this will help you in the long run.
While planting your garden, you can use a black plastic that will eliminate having to weed. It's simple. Just remember to properly recycle at the end of the season!
Thank you for your interest in the Old Farmer's Almanac and our Web site.
By stanimir
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I have been trying to kill Kentucky blue glass for the past year, I have dig it up and the root are like three feet deep, any suggesture in how to kill the root under the soil?
By Almanac Staff
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If you have some time, you can cover the area with black plastic and let the grass be covered all summer. Note that annual bluegrass comes up in the spring, but it germinates in the fall so you need to use a pre emergent in the late summer and before it seeds in the spring. If you can't wait for these options, you could probably get rid of it with a nonselective herbicide like glyphosate (see your garden center), but that will kill all the grass, not just the annual bluegrass.
By Burgess
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We recently relocated to Wisconsin (Madison area) and have about a half acre we would like to garden. However it seems the folks before us weren't as enthusiastic and there is what I've been told is Canadian Thistle all over the place(like two thirds of the plot). What can we do?
By Almanac Staff
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Round-up is a good solution. You can just spray it on the base if you like. It may take several treatments and probably will do a better job as a late summer or fall application.For more information,here are a couple of helpful links:
http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf619427.tip.html
http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/weed/thistle.htm
We appreciate your interest in The Old Farmer's Almanac and our web site.
By capricorn1551
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My husband got organic mulch a few years ago - we now have wild onions all over our flower beds. We've tried numerous things to get rid of them. Nothing has worked and they are a huge pain to try and dig up. Even that hasn't worked! Does anyone have any recommendations?
By Almanac Staff
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Wild onions are difficult to control with weed killers, in part because of the wax-like foliage that makes liquid weed killer applications run off into the soil without being absorbed into the green of the weed plant. However, repeated application of a lawn weed killer containing the active ingredients 2,4-D plus Dicamba will reduce the number of wild onions. At the same time, do all necessary work to correct pH problems and soil conditions.
By Loxie Nance
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We have creeping charlie all over 0ur yard...Please someone tell us how to get rid of this pesty stuff. I know it is a cover moss..or that is what we were told.
By Almanac Staff
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A tip from readers is to try salt.Another suggestion is hand weeding and planting something else such as a ground ivy in the area where the creeping Charlie is growing to 'push out" the creeping Charlie. Hope this information is useful!
By mariegermain
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I mulch my garden with my lawn clippings. It not only keeps the weeds down, but keeps your produce clean as well!
By leellac
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Why, if using newspaper, does it have to be only black ink? I have been just using shredded paper, junk mail, scratch paper etc...
By Almanac Staff
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Most newspaper publishers now print with soy- or water-based inks, so black-and-white pages are usually safe to recycle back into the soil. The inks used in full-color glossy advertisements, coupons, and magazines may still contain heavy metals, and are not the best choice for your soil. Best consign them to the recycling bin!
By lindaS
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there is another solution for some weeds....EAT THEM!
dandelions, plantain, young dock, violet (flowers and leaves), sorel, lambs quarters, garlic mustard, chickweed, purslane are all edible, especially when they are young. in trendy stores, you sometimes see these weeds up for sale at premium prices! many weeds make cheap (free!) medicines -- plaintain is called the bandaid plant in that it soothes and heals cuts, scrapes and insect bites. throw away the roundup and bring out the forks. :)
By peacefulpotter
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My garden does not suffer from edible weeds but more like caterpillar grass and these little weeds that look like mimosa tree starters. If you find a recipe with these in it let me know.
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