Broccoli

Reasons for long stems: temps too warm (broccoli likes it 10 degrees cooler than most seedlings), not enough direct sunlight, too much nitrogen in soil. Yes, when you plant, cover the roots and stem with supplemental top soil; dissipate the nitrogen (use fertilizer high in phosphorous and low in nitrogen). Stake the long stem if needed.

Planting zone definitions are guides--good ones, but they are not infallible. Any given spot could be a micro-climate that varies from typical zonal characteristics and expectations. Broccoli is pretty hardy but, yes, it is finicky.
Cold tolerance depends on conditioning. If your plants had been in warmer conditions before transplanting and the temp drops well below freezing, it is very likely you would lose them. If you broccoli plants had experienced relatively cold weather, it is likely that they would survive.
Sometimes it is wise to err on the side of caution. You might do well to bring the containers inside, but into a space/area that mimics recent temp and light conditions. That is, don't bring them into the high heat and lamp light of the house. Perhaps a porch?? Or you could cover the plants.
Either way, return them outside or uncover them during the day.
We hope this helps.

It's not just about the weather. Broccoli needs soil with a pH range of 6–7. It is a heavy feeder, so thrives where the soil is rich in aged manure or rich compost—or both. When planted and while growing it can benefit from a general garden fertilizer, such as 10-30-10, with more nitrogen after harvesting. And, if you are not practicing appropriate crop rotation, it may fail to thrive because of whatever grew in the spot before. For specific assistance, contact your local extension service. We hope this helps.

It's hard to know exactly what went wrong with your broccoli crop, but consider this:
• Did you amend the soil to the appropriate pH: 6.0-6.5?
• Did you apply potassium and nitrogen before planting and then again to seven weeks after the transplants (or seedings) got established?
• Did you keep the plants well watered and free from stress—such as diseases, weeds, and insects?
• Did you plant too early in spring? The larger that plants are when exposed to a late-season cold period, the higher is the likelihood that they will bolt.
• Did the plants experience a prolonged cold spell, followed by a favorable temps, then high temps? This sounds normal, but the variability may be the cause of bolting.
There is no easy answer. Consider these risks and try again this year. OH, then there's this—if you see broccoli thriving in a garden in your area, tell your tale and ask the gardener what his/her secret is. The best advice is sometimes right next door. Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

Broccoli can be grown in areas with mild winters, not severe winters. This fits central Arkansas-- zone 7b. The timing depends on the variety of broccoli. For a standard type of broccoli, you would normally start harvesting around October but may be able to stretch to January. For the Northern European varieties of broccoli, you can overwinter. Normally, you'd start seeds early summer and transplants by later summer so the broccoli has time to grow large enough to grow by January and survive low temps. The plants will thrive down to 25 degrees F without covering. Some readers say that their broccoli did well down to 10 degrees. Single digits would kill.

You can leave your plants in the ground and keep harvesting the side shoots in the winter months. In the spring you need to plant new broccoli plants to get new buds and florets.

I would add 3 to 5 inches of strait compost u can buy it by the cubic yard from any nursery or the city dump(its cheaper)till it in before spring planting do this every year until the soil will stay loos in summer

Please see our fall planting chart here and look for your frost dates. It lists broccoli and more! http://www.almanac.com/content/succession-gardening-planting-dates-second-crops

For southern Louisiana, August is a good time to seed broccoli in the ground. It's probably fine in September, too. Here's a good guide from LSU:
http://www.lsuagcenter.com/NR/rdonlyres/46F14CF6-CA36-44E4-95B9-6856552C94EC/43250/pub1980vegplantguide2008LOWRES.pdf

It may have been too hot for your broccoli. Or you may have added too much nitrogen to the soil which encourages leaf growth. Next time try a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer for better bloom growth.If you have room in your garden leave the plants and you may get some florets with cooler temps.

Click on the yellow "Gardening" tab to the left and you'll see planting links.

Broccoli isn't the best veggie for seed-saving but you can do it. First, note that you can't have any other crops from the Brassica oleracea family within a mile or they'll cross-pollinate and it won't be pure broccoli. Also, you want to seed save from heirloom veggies versus hybrids. Do not harvest heads on broccoli plants that you wish to save for seed. Carefully dig the plants and pot them in sand. Store plants between 32-40° F. Plant back out in early spring and allow to bolt. Harvest seed pods when dry and clean by hand. See more on Seed Saving: http://www.almanac.com/content/quick-seed-saving-guide-beginners

Yep, it's done. Pull out the broccoli plant. It's gone to seed and will only start to taste bitter. Now you can sow a plant that fits the middle of summer in your area!

Yes. Floating row covers is an excellent way to prevent pests. Apply just after planting. You can keep over broccoli for the life of the plant since they do not require insects to pollinate them. However, it is important to secure the edges of the cover tightly (with landscaping pins).

Keep on watering and your broccoli should soon sprout!

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It seems as though your plant has gone to seed! Pick them off and hopefully smaller florets will grow in their place.

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Harvest while buds are starting to swell (match-like size) or if it begins to loosen from the plant itself. If you wait to long, they'll flower.

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It won't grow the same central head, but it will grow more, smaller heads to enjoy.

It's hard to say without a photo link, but does the broccoli head look like a small "button"? There are several possibilities for this: 1) Plants that remain too long in seed flats or have outgrown their container may produce "button" heads soon after planting. 2) Plants that have experienced a rapid change in temperature such as warm to cold nights without any "hardening off" and transition may button. 2) Dry spells, cold nights, or really erratic weather can affect the early broccoli growth.
If you have this issue with the main head, your broccoli can still produce great side shoots after the main head is cut.

Your plant has gone to seed, however, you can cut off the head and let the plant develop new baby/side heads for eating!

It might be nitrogen deficiency--one of the more common problems as broccoli is a heavy nitrogen feeder, Apply blood meal or a high nitrogen (but low phosphorus) fertilizer at planting and also when the main head emerges and after the main head is harvested. Also: During the growing period, the temperature should be between 40 degrees and 70 degrees.