Tomatoes

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Botanical name: Lycopersicon esculentum

Plant type: Vegetable

USDA Hardiness Zones: 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

Sun exposure: Full Sun

Soil type: Loamy

Soil pH: Acidic


Tomatoes are America’s favorite garden vegetable. (Yes, we technically eat the fruit of the tomato plant, but it's used as a vegetable in eating and cooking and, thus, usually categorized in vegetables.)

This vine plant is fairly easy to grow and will produce a bumper crop with proper care. Its uses are versatile, however, tomatoes are susceptible to a range of pests and diseases.

Planting

  • If you're planting seeds (versus purchasing transplants), you'll want to start your seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. See our post on "Tomatoes From Seed the Easy Way."
  • Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil. For northern regions, is is VERY important that your site receives at least 6 hours of sun. For souther regions, light afternoon shade will help tomatoes survive and thrive.
  • Two weeks before transplanting seedlings outdoors, till soil to about 1 foot and mix in aged manure, compost, or fertilizer.
  • Harden off transplants for a week before moving outdoors.
  • Transplant after last spring frost when the soil is warm. See our Best Planting Dates for Transplants for your region.
  • Establish stakes or cages in the soil at the time of planting. Staking keeps developing fruit off the ground, while caging let’s the plant hold itself upright. Some sort of support system is recommended, but sprawling can also produce fine crops if you have the space, and if the weather cooperates.
  • Plant seedlings two feet apart.
  • Pinch off a few of the lower branches on transplants, and plant the root ball deep enough so that the remaining lowest leaves are just above the surface of the soil.
  • Water well to reduce shock to the roots.

Care

  • Water generously for the first few days.
  • Water well throughout growing season, about 2 inches per week during the summer. Keep watering consistent!
  • Mulch five weeks after transplanting to retain moisture.
  • To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks pull up water from under the ground and keep it from evaporating into the atmosphere.
  • Fertilize two weeks prior to first picking and again two weeks after first picking.
  • If using stakes, prune plants by pinching off suckers so that only a couple stems are growing per stake.
  • Practice crop rotation from year to year to prevent diseases that may have over wintered.

Pests

Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests, especially tomato hornworms and whiteflies. Link to our pest & problem pages below.

  • Aphids
  • Flea Beetles
  • Tomato Hornworm
  • Whiteflies
  • Late Blight is a fungal disease that can strike during any part of the growing season. It will cause grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. This disease will overwinter, so all infected plants should be destroyed. See our blog on "Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato."
  • Tobacco Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don't put them in your compost pile).
  • Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs in extreme humidity or rainy periods in conjunction with dry periods. Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.
  • Blossom end rot creates Black, indented area on bottoms of fruit, most likely to affect your first picking. Keep moisture levels constant and try using a calcium solution on leaves and fruit.
  • Blossom Drop: Reduce by protecting the plant from too low or too high temperatures, high relative humidity, and excessive wind. Misshapen fruit can occur due to poor pollination.

Harvest/Storage

  • Leave your tomatoes on the vine as long as possible. If any fall off before they appear ripe, place them in a paper bag with the stem up and store them in a cool, dark place.
  • Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
  • The perfect tomato for picking will be firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. A ripe tomato will be only slightly soft.
  • If your tomato plant still has fruit when the first hard frost threatens, pull up the entire plant and hang it upside down in the basement or garage. Pick tomatoes as they redden.
  • Never refrigerate fresh tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that make up that garden tomato taste.
  • To freeze, core fresh unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they defrost.

See more on properly storing tomatoes and vegetables.

Recommended Varieties

Tomatoes grow in all sizes, from tiny "currant" to "cherry" to large "beefsteak." There are hundreds of varieties to suit different climates and tastes. Here are a few of our favorites:

  • ‘Amish Paste’: Large paste tomatoes, good slicers.
  • ‘Brandywine’: A beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination. Many variants are available.
  • ‘Matt’s Wild Cherry’: Foolproof in any climate, cherries bear abundant fruit in high or low temps and in rain or drought.

For more about tomato varieties, see our post on "Tomato Trials: from blue to grafted; what grew this summer."
 

Recipes

Cooking Notes

Capture the garden-fresh taste of tomatoes all year long! See this helpful post on how to can tomatoes.

Wit & Wisdom

In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Wealthy people believed that the fruits were poisonous. Only the peasants were brave (and hungry) enough to eat them.

Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.

Comments

mold

my tomato bush is starting get covered in white, fuzzy, mold. I don't know how to control it! The plant isn't even wet!

Something on my tomato

I bought my seedling at a little Japanese market last November. It started to grow very fast and is now very big. But I started to notice white, gray, and brown squiggly lines on a lot of the leaves. I am worried about my plant. When it was really bad, these egg looking things would come out of the end of the lines. Also, my plant is in a pot on the west side of my house and it doesn't get direct sunlight until about 1:00 P.M. Is that enough light? Last thing, I live on Okinawa. (The Japanese island) I have heard you talking about different hardiness zones and how some plants at different locations need more water or sunlight. What should I do?

It sounds like you have a

It sounds like you have a problem with leaf miners. The larvae will tunnel through the leaves and stunt the growth of your plant. Leaf miners are difficult to control without using insecticides. The adult leaf miner flies can be attracted by yellow cards coated with a sticky layer of petroleum jelly. Keep your plants healthy and well watered and they may recover from the infestation. Tomato plants need a lot of sun. If possible move your container to a location where it will get more morning sun.

Leaf miners

They are attracted by yellow cards? What does that mean? Did you mean they can be repelled by yellow cards?

Yes, they are yellow sticky

Yes, they are yellow sticky cards. Most insects are attracted to the color yellow. Find the cards at your local garden center or on the Internet.

ookie

i love growing tomato plants every since i can remember my father growing them i have been hooked...there really easily to grow long as u provide them with enough sun in the day mostly i like mine getting the morning sun and the after noon shade where its the hardest on them...i give mine water once every 3 days to keep the soil around them moist unless we have had rain then i wont..i love canning tomato's and tomoato juice which is the best for homemade chilli..for bugs i use hot sauce and some salt mixed up to keep them off seems to work just dont spray it on them in the heat of the day wait till its almost sundown and for the breaking stem deals..after mine start getting any taller then 6-8 inches they are staked u with anythting i can find rather it be fishing pol rods that are broke or decent sticks under the trees then as they grow i tie them up in sections..hope this helps ya out but this is my method everyone has some different good luck..ookie ky

Broken Beefstake tomatoe vine

First time grower and I'm excited on how they are growing but they are getting heavy even though we have them staked. Unfortunately while I was tying them up I heard one vine crack. It does have many tomatoes on it that are not grown yet. Please advise. I also find it unusual that out of approx 20 tomatoes on this plant ONLY one ripened. All others are small and green. What can I do to ripen the rest of them? Thank you so much

Usually, the ripening of

Usually, the ripening of tomatoes is is related to heat units. Tomatoes need lots of heat to ripen. Vines usually crack due to lack of support. Whether you cage or stake them is personal preference. If you support tomatoes off the ground, they will also produce fruit. If you have tomatoes from that broken vine that are green, pick them and place in a single layer on a counter (NOT in fridge) at room temperature until they turn red. When they are fully ripe, place them in the refrigerator several hours before eating.

Good vs. not so good tomatoes

My husband and I are both growing tomatoes, he at our home in the garden, he has over a dozen plants. I have one in a bucket on the front porch of my office. His tomatoes are yellow splotchy, not prolific & not ripening. Mine are abundant, red & delicious. I used the same celebrity plants and I filled my bucket with soil from the same garden. I soak my plant everyday & I know he is slowing down on watering thinking this may improve yield. Any suggestions?

Good vs. not so good tomatoes

Tomatoes need water regularly. Once the fruit begins to ripen you can cut back on watering to get more flavorful tomatoes, but don’t withhold water so much that the plants become stressed.
Does your husband's tomatoes get enough sun? Maybe his plants are growing too close together and shading each other. The soil in containers is usually warmer than soil in the garden and may also make a difference in how the tomatoes grow.

tall plants

My husband planted tomatoes on the southern side of our house, they are over 8 ft tall and bottom leaves are spotting and dying. Tomatoes are ripening before they get great big. What is our problem?

Tall plants

Not sure what type of tomatoes you have. Some varieties don't get very big. Here are a couple of suggestions. Remove the bottom leaves and add some bone meal to the soil around the plants. The south side of your house may be getting too much sun. Try shading the plants during the hottest hours of the day.

Yellowing leaves at base of plant.

I have a few plants that started yellowing at the base a few weeks ago. Others have followed suit. They all have several tomatoes on them. I've added Osmocote, cotton seed meal, and a fertilizer blend. It doesn't seem to be helping too much. One plant has 16 tomatoes on it. Another, the leaves are now turning brown in various places. There is basil nearby, as well as marigolds. What is causing the yellowing?

Yellowing Tomato Plant

Luckily, it doesn't sound like tomato blossom rot.

In this instance, it may just be pests. Try this spray: Stir together 1 quart of water, 1 tsp of liquid dish soap and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Do not dilute before spraying on plants. Useful against aphids and scale insects. Organic controls include alcohol spray (isopropyl alcohol, straight or diluted), soapy emulsion (can be mixed w/alcohol), horticultural oil (read the directions) and pyrethrum spray. Soapy water/alcohol should be reapplied every 2-3 days for 2 weeks.

Thank you for your interest in the Old Farmer's Almanac and our Web site.

New stalk/branch growing from under soil

I have a new branch or stalk growing off the main stemm from under the soil. I carefully dug down and it is coming off the original stalk. Should I allow it to keep growing or prune it? I am concerned it may take nutrients away from main plant and it's fruit. It looks like another branch that started beneath the soil. Any suggestions?

A tomato plant with 2 stems

A tomato plant with 2 stems is unusual. We suggest removing the smaller stem close to the soil. It is also a good idea to remove lower branches. Rain and wind can cause them to touch the soil where they come in contact with soil born pathogens and fungi.

Pruning

First time growing tomatoes. I have a Better Boy in one container and Cherokee Purple in another on the deck. The Better Boy is already about 4 feet long/tall and full of green tomatoes. The Cherokee Purple is just as huge and full of green tomatoes. I pruned small suckers but apparently not as much as could have been done, although I've been doing it every few days. Is it possible to prune more heavily at this stage of growth? At this rate they will take over the whole deck before July! Can't find any info on pruning except in relation to suckers. So, thanks for any advice!

We envy your success with

We envy your success with these tomato plants! You are clearly doing a lot of things correctly.
Both Better Boy and Cherokee Purple are indeterminate tomatoes, and both produce an abundant harvest. They may very well take over your deck. Enjoy the bounty! By the way, in a survey for the 2005 Almanac, readers described Better Boy as “God’s perfect fruit, [with] great taste.”
First, if you have not already done this, make sure that the plants are staked or otherwise supported. (This should have been done when the first flower appears.)
It would be desirable to have only one main stem below the first fruit cluster. Avoid too many stems above the first fruit cluster; aim for no more than four. Fewer stems mean larger fruit. (How do you avoid too many stems? Prune them.)
Continue to prune the suckers, especially those below the first fruit, but get as many as you can and do this by hand, not with a knife or other tool. If at all possible, do not prune suckers when the leaves are wet to avoid any risk of disease to the plant.
If the suckers get out of hand and become especially large and leafy, consider removing only the leaf cluster at the top of the sucker. This is less of a shock to the plant.
About a month before the end of the season (but who is thinking about that in June?), do a ruthless pruning, or “topping,” of all of the growing tips so that the remaining fruit can mature properly.
We hope this helps. If you are looking for ways to use your harvest, we have more than 400 recipes for tomatoes at Almanac.com/Cooking.

But I'm worried...

I've begun to notice quite a bit of blossom end rot on smaller tomatoes on both plants. I really don't think it's calcium deficiency because I added it to both soils early on. Excessive heat or rapid growth? I've never grown Cherokee Purple before but a lot of the green tomatoes are "white-ish" green?! Is this normal? Unfortunately, I did not stake them because I planted them in containers with a string/net trellis attached not realizing how massive and heavy these plants would be. Is it too late to rig something up? Thank You SOOO much!

But I'm worried

The only time I experienced blossom rot was when I bought my plants from a local green house. I planted them like I did every year in a pot with miracle grow soil.Had 4 plants and NO tomatoes without rot. Everyone I talked to that year had the same thing happen to them.I still believe that it was a disease that had spread through the plant distributor.Another reason to grow from heirloom seed of your own stock.

We addressed this and other

We addressed this and other common tomato problems in a recent issue of the All-Seasons Garden Guide. Here’s the suggestion:
--Blossom End Rot is often caused by fluctuating soil moisture, such as a dry period followed by lots of rain, and is evidence of calcium deficiency in the fruit. Too much nitrogen, high salt levels in the soil, or root damage can also contribute.
--Symptoms: A dark or water-soaked area on the first few fruits’ blossom end (opposite the stem) that eventually enlarges, turns brown or black, and becomes sunken and flat; leathery skin on fruit. Note: Fruit does not rot unless secondary organisms invade. Tomatoes grow slowly and may ripen prematurely.
--To avoid: Prepare deep, well-drained soil. In low-calcium soil, apply lime. Avoid severe hardening off. Plant in warm soil. Water uniformly and regularly; provide mulch. Cultivate shallowly. Avoid overfertilizing; use nitrogen forms that do not contain ammonia, which inhibits calcium uptake.
--To control: Remove affected fruit.
--As for staking later in the growth cycle—sure. Just try to avoid piercing the plant’s roots. Put the stakes (or whatever) at the edge of the pot. Or, if available, tie the branches of the plant to something nearby, such as the railing of a deck.
--Regarding the whitish color, It’s hard to tell at this distance, but it may not be a problem. Perhaps there is the long-shot possibility that the you have a white tomato variety....that the plant tag was inadvertently changed before you bought it.

Good luck! And remember that every growing season is an experiment...

tomatoes

I live in N.Texas, and I am a 1st timer, and my plants are nice and green, with a few tomatoes, my tomatoes are about a size of a small orange, they started to turn red however.. when I went to pick them they were mushy... Even some that were still green... What do I need to do..

Yellow leaves

I have had great success in the past with my tomatoes, but this year my leaves from the bottom are turning yellow and wilting. I prune and then the next set of leaves starts to turn yellow. i water daily and fertilize every 2 weeks. I use a tomato and pepper set to help the fruit set. What am I not doing?

Tomato problems

Although several conditions may cause yellowing and wilting, the tomatoes may possibly have a type of wilt, perhaps fusarium or verticillium wilt. Symptoms begin as yellowing and wilting of lower leaves (verticillium often shows up as wedge-shaped yellow spots on the leaves). Plants can be stunted or not recover from wilting after being watered. To check for verticillium or fusarium wilt, cut a troubled stem by the base and look for brown discoloration inside the stem.
Fusarium may affect just a few shoots in the beginning. It only attacks tomato plants, reduces vigor and yield, often killing the plant.
Verticillium may affect whole plants and can travel to other types of plants. It may not kill tomato plants but will reduce vigor and yield.
It’s best to destroy the plants (do not add to compost pile). In future, plant resistant cultivars. Sanitize tools.
Rotate crops—avoiding any in the tomato/potato family in the same spot for the next few years. One can try soil solarization to try to get rid of the disease in the soil. Hope this helps.
For more info and photos, see:
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3122.html

tomatoes

i ate a fresh tomatoes after i got it off the vine yes i did wash it off and i sliced it and put it on a sandwich and ever since i did this i have been sick what could have caused this

Fresh garden tomatoes do NOT

Fresh garden tomatoes do NOT naturally contain bacteria that can make you sick. Possibilities: Contact with raw food on cutting board, bacteria on your hands or in your sink, contaminated water or soil, improperly composted manure, etc. If you are still sick, please see a heath professional and take care!

I dont use fertilizer..

I couldnt help but notice how many people use fertilizer and are having trouble with their plants. I am using potting soil with a small amount of fertilizer in it (couldnt find any without), but I DO NOT use any extra. I have about 30 plants all ranging in height, but all very healthy. I might make compost tea, but really I find that fert is unnecessary. You're growing your own tomatoes so you dont have to buy the ones grown with pesticides at the store, right?

Too small for fruit?

I have several Celebrity plants growing...They are between 12"-24" tall. The 12" and a 16" already have Tomatos beginning to grow...(and yes I did mean 12 & 16 inches tall)Should I allow the fruit to mature or will it hurt the overall growth of the plant, since they are so small?

celebrity tomatoes

Celebrity tomato plants can get very tall (5 to 6 feet) and will get lots of tomatoes. Just make sure all the weight is supported with stakes/wire mesh or cages, preferably strong caging if budget allows.

Beginner

Hi, I thought of growing tomatoes in my small patio. This is my first trial. Can anyone help me like what all things i need to buy? like manure, fertilizer, seed, how to start with? how much to buy? And i need to grow in the cheapest way because as it is my first trial, i dont want to waste money if it fails. Guide me in detail. Thanks.

Growing container tomatoes on a patio

If you're growing tomatoes on a patio, it sounds as if you'd grow them in pots? You can certainly grow tomatoes in containers. Plant one tomato per container and make sure the container has holes in the bottom. Cherry tomatoes are great in containers and here are a few other smaller varieties to try: Early Girl, Patio, Small Fry, Sweet 100, Tiny Tim. Ask your garden center to advise on size of pots. Most tomatoes use large containers (18-gallon). Use potting soil (such as Miracle Grow), 1 cup of Osmocote slow release 13-13-13 and 1/4 cup of lime. Every 12 days, feed with a high phosphorous fertilizer. You can also add some mulch on top to retain moisture. Make sure your tomatoes are in a location where they will get 6 hours of sunshine daily. Water after planting and then consistently. When to water? If the soil is dry on the top, but you can feel moisture further down, you probably don't need to water them yet. If it feels dry all the way through, water them until the water leaks through the holes. You'll need to stake the tomatoes for support. You can find more detail about tomato plant care and harvesting on this page. Good luck!

City Girl fails at tomatoes

My great tomato experiment of 2011 has my husband & me totally confounded.

I've been bugging my friend with ridiculously elementary questions... requiring her garden 'tech-support' so I don't really want to annoy her any longer. Maybe one of you can help?

This was the first year we planted anything at all - three tomato plants. We had expert supervision when planting and followed all the advice we got.

Recently someone told us to stop watering tomatoes at a certain time... which we did. Two days later, all the vines have all drooped. Garden Tech Support Friend said that's normal. Cool.

I went outside just to see the extent of the 'droopage' and I noticed on one of the tomato plants that finally, after weeks of care, we had actual red tomatoes!

I was so happy to see them, I picked all five or six of them, like a proud parent - and went to show my husband: We tried them - but they were mealy and mushy and not that sweet.

So then I went to the other two plants, and indeed, down below and way in the back there more red ones.

But the odd thing is, each of the three plants produced the exact same result. Smallish mealy mushy fruit, and the color was not the right red, more of a red/dark pink. They're all exactly the same - just a bit bigger than cherry tomatoes.

We did everything right! Or maybe not!? Did we over water them? And if that's the case, now that we've stopped over watering them, will the future little green ones have any chance of being nice tomatoes? Or have we ruined all subsequent tomatoes too?

The internet has lots of theories, but most of them say the reason is leaving them on the vine too long - which I know isn't the case with these.

Now today I just heard that "Heritage" Tomatoes are having a bad year. Is that possible?

I feel like apologizing to the plants and promising never to try to grow anything again. I'm a former New Yorker. Nature is the potted plant on your fire escape.

Help.

Don’t get discouraged. All

Don’t get discouraged. All beginner gardeners have learning hurdles and even experienced gardeners never stop learning! We’re not sure where you live—and we wonder if it’s in a warm place. Here are a few common reasons for soft tomatoes:

1. If tomatoes are soft, usually it’s just overripe and you want to harvest sooner.
 

2. Or, if the temps have gone over 90 degrees and you let them fully ripen on the plant, they can become mushy.

3. Did you overfeed the tomatoes?  This is most likely is a nutrient imbalance, most likely too much nitrogen. Too much fertilizer with nitrogen or not enough potassium can be an issue.  If you buy a fertilizer, be sure to apply a 1:3 nitrogen-to-potassium liquid fertilizer.

We’re not sure why the tomatoes are smaller than you expected. Is it a ripening issue? Temps above 85*F and under 55*F will affect the ripening of tomatoes. If the temp is too low, the tomatoes can freeze overnight, causing them to become mushy as they thaw the next day (this is a sign of decay and means they are not safe to eat).

Did you get enough sun?  Tomatoes need a LOT of sun: 6 to 8 hours a day. Or, if it’s just size, that could be due to lack of moisture. You could also help growth by removing the small tomatoes and the stems and leaves that are offshoots to help channel energy into the rest of the tomatoes.

http://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/yard/2004/110604.html

purple?

My tomatoes are doing great but I noticed on some of the stems are turning purple..in the creases of the stems??? Is this normal?? Is it a disease or a deficiency? Please help... :)

if you don't see any insects,

if you don't see any insects, then it is probably a phosphorus deficiency that is causing the purple tinged leaves. This problem can be fixed by amending your fertilizer accordingly. Good luck!

yellow leaves

I am planting my tomatoes in containers this year. They are looking great: healthy & blooming. But I am starting to see some very yellow leaves at the bottom of the plant. I always thought that was a sign of over watering, but I feel sure I am not doing that. Any ideas??

starting tomato seeds in an unheated greenhouse

Do I need to be putting fish emulsion on my plants? They are approximately 2 inches tall at this time, we didn't get the greenhouse up until Apri lst and I am thinking I am a little behind.

tomatoes in containers

Need help as soon as possible. I just planted my tomatoe seedlings (size ranges from 4 in to almost a foot tall) in black plastic one gallon containers with drip holes in the bottom. They were planted with new bags of garden soil and new bags of organic manure. Today I watered them with Miracle Gro. I live in Florida and have put metal cages in the containers. Will one gallon containers be big enough or will they need transplanting as they get bigger. They get morning sun and later afternoon shade. Last year we had problems with tomato hornworms and yellowing leaves and stems after the first set of blooms and tomatoes. Should I put sevin dust on them now? Or should I put a marigold plant in each of the containers? I have around 22 plants. Would coffee grounds be good to add to the soil for tomatoes and how often? Or are coffee grounds just for roses and how often for roses? What about putting banana peels in the containers with the plants? Would that be helpful?

Sprouts falling over

I started my tomato plants a couple weeks ago from seed and most of them look great, but a few sprouts here and there are simply falling over. I don't know if this is because they are not getting enough water (though I water them at least twice daily), I'm using too much miracle-gro, or they're not getting enough sunlight which is making them too tall to hold themselves up. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Seedlings

Once a tomato seed has sprouted it doesn't need a lot of water. You are probably watering too much and this causes root rot. also they don't need a lot of fertalizer until about two weeks before you want to pick fruit. When seedlings get too tall they are reaching for light. Your light source should be 2 inches above tops of seedlings. Moving as they grow. Also a bit of a breeze on seedlings helps make their stems grow stronger. a small fan is useful. Good Luck, it's always trial and error.

Some things to try....

There are a few things you can do to help your tomato plants.
-pinch them back
-water them more often
-take the plants and lay them on their sides for about 1/3 of the plant. This was in a local article by a master gardener. He claims that 'we' don't plant enough of our tomatoe plants in the ground. You can plant up to 1/2 of the plant into the ground to encourage better root growth. The same can be accomplished by planting the plant on its side and leaving the top 1/3 above the ground.
-increase the amount of sunlight. Lack of sunlight encourages leggy plants, so you'll have to pinch them back to encourage good bushy growth.
-also you should only be watering them in the mornings, watering them later in the day encourages rot and fungus as the plants don't have sufficient time to dry off before dark.

Keep us posted as to what you do and how the plants are doing. ~Nanette

Thank you very much Nanette!

Thank you very much Nanette! I have one more question I'm hoping you can answer for me. How much should I water them each morning? As I said earlier I stared them from seed a couple weeks ago so they are no more than approximately 2 inches tall currently and I have them in individual cells in a seed tray.

tomatoes

my tall tomato plants are just starting to flower. but today i noticed the leaves are all wilty. what does that mean??

tomatoes & lack of fertilizer or water

You're plants could be 'wilting' due to lack of water. Once the plants begin to flower it takes more energy to produce flowers and fruit. You'll need to fertilize now and increase the water you give. Tomatoes LOVE water, they are mostly water so you have to give water and fertilizer to get good tomatoes.

Also if they are really 'tall' they may be 'leggy' and need pinching back. Bushy is better than leggy in this case.
Good luck~Nanette

How often do you water? Are

How often do you water? Are there any bugs on or under the leaves? Has it been really hot in your area?

If they are getting enough water, there are no bugs and the weather has not been too hot, then look at how much fertilizer has been used. Has anyone been spraying weed killer in the area? I hope some of this helps.

I have never grown tomatoes before

This year, i got one of those topsy turvy things and started a tomato plant, and this is my first shot at growing ANYthing. It started out about an inch tall. but now it is well over 2 feet. i water it everyday, with miracle gro in it. no tomatoes yet. i started it in late april, possibly early may. it has blossomed once or twice, but those blossoms just shrivelled away. some ideas would be fabulous!!

my tomatoes plants are too tall what should i be doing next

i have over 15 tomatoe plants no tomatoes on the vines yet i have a couple of flowers on the vine should i separate the plants?do i lay the plants on the soil or use wire cage to support the vine?

Topsy turvy planters

Hi Last year I used topsy turvy to grow 2 tomatoes and a green pepper on my porch. It was an experiment. I wanted to see which did better, this or the garden.

Well, I have to say my topsy did best. I used a home-made recipe: 1/2 compost, 1/2 light soil mix and some fertilizer. I mixed it all together and then put it in my planters. My tomato plants were over 7 ft long and had mulitple 'vines' I kept pinching and got some tomatoes and pepper from each. Because they were hung on the porch, I had tomatoes and peppers until december until the frost came and eventually killed them off.

Stop fertilizing every time you water. Too much is NOT a good thing. If you mix in a good fertilizer when you pot up, you won't need any more for the growing season.

Good luck~Nanette

tomatoes

keep in mind that if you are feeding your tomatoes miracle gro, then you will be feeding yourself that as well when you eat the tomato.
an excellent fertilizer for anything you grow: get a bag of dehydrated manure, or any form of bagged manure (it isn't gross and doesn't smell) - MOO DOO is a good brand. if you take a couple good handfuls, as big as you can scoop between two hands, put it in a five gallon bucket (for smaller containers, adjust the amount of manure), fill the bucket with water, let it sit for a day or however long to make "tea". use this tea for watering your plants and your plants and your body will be much happier.
you can keep refilling the bucket with water as you use it up without needing to add more manure until the tea looks really weak. then you can add the manure on the bottom of the bucket directly into the soil around your plants and start over.
one of the problems with chemical fertilizers, one of the many problems i should say, is that the plant becomes addicted and therefore dependent on them and can suffer from its use just as people suffer from chemical addictions.
sometimes the chemicals are too much for the plants and they may start out well, but don't do well if they have been fed nothing but that.
i would try switching to the manure tea. if you have ONLY been feeding it miracle gro every time you water, that is definitely too much...you may have to wean it off miracle gro rather than going cold turkey, and introduce the tea into it regularly to help balance out the tomatoes' withdrawals.

Tomatoes

Keep in mind that if you feed your tomatoes cow poop, then you will be feeding yourself that as well when you eat the tomato.

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