Tomatoes

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Botanical name: Lycopersicon esculentum

Plant type: Vegetable

USDA Hardiness Zones: 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

Sun exposure: Full Sun

Soil type: Loamy

Soil pH: Acidic


Tomatoes are America’s favorite garden vegetable. (Yes, we technically eat the fruit of the tomato plant, but it's used as a vegetable in eating and cooking and, thus, usually categorized in vegetables.)

This vine plant is fairly easy to grow and will produce a bumper crop with proper care. Its uses are versatile, however, tomatoes are susceptible to a range of pests and diseases.

Planting

  • If you're planting seeds (versus purchasing transplants), you'll want to start your seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. See our post on "Tomatoes From Seed the Easy Way."
  • Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil. For northern regions, is is VERY important that your site receives at least 6 hours of sun. For souther regions, light afternoon shade will help tomatoes survive and thrive.
  • Two weeks before transplanting seedlings outdoors, till soil to about 1 foot and mix in aged manure, compost, or fertilizer.
  • Harden off transplants for a week before moving outdoors.
  • Transplant after last spring frost when the soil is warm. See our Best Planting Dates for Transplants for your region.
  • Establish stakes or cages in the soil at the time of planting. Staking keeps developing fruit off the ground, while caging let’s the plant hold itself upright. Some sort of support system is recommended, but sprawling can also produce fine crops if you have the space, and if the weather cooperates.
  • Plant seedlings two feet apart.
  • Pinch off a few of the lower branches on transplants, and plant the root ball deep enough so that the remaining lowest leaves are just above the surface of the soil.
  • Water well to reduce shock to the roots.

Care

  • Water generously for the first few days.
  • Water well throughout growing season, about 2 inches per week during the summer. Keep watering consistent!
  • Mulch five weeks after transplanting to retain moisture.
  • To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks pull up water from under the ground and keep it from evaporating into the atmosphere.
  • Fertilize two weeks prior to first picking and again two weeks after first picking.
  • If using stakes, prune plants by pinching off suckers so that only a couple stems are growing per stake.
  • Practice crop rotation from year to year to prevent diseases that may have over wintered.

Pests

Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests, especially tomato hornworms and whiteflies. Link to our pest & problem pages below.

  • Aphids
  • Flea Beetles
  • Tomato Hornworm
  • Whiteflies
  • Late Blight is a fungal disease that can strike during any part of the growing season. It will cause grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. This disease will overwinter, so all infected plants should be destroyed. See our blog on "Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato."
  • Tobacco Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don't put them in your compost pile).
  • Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs in extreme humidity or rainy periods in conjunction with dry periods. Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.
  • Blossom end rot creates Black, indented area on bottoms of fruit, most likely to affect your first picking. Keep moisture levels constant and try using a calcium solution on leaves and fruit.
  • Blossom Drop: Reduce by protecting the plant from too low or too high temperatures, high relative humidity, and excessive wind. Misshapen fruit can occur due to poor pollination.

Harvest/Storage

  • Leave your tomatoes on the vine as long as possible. If any fall off before they appear ripe, place them in a paper bag with the stem up and store them in a cool, dark place.
  • Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
  • The perfect tomato for picking will be firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. A ripe tomato will be only slightly soft.
  • If your tomato plant still has fruit when the first hard frost threatens, pull up the entire plant and hang it upside down in the basement or garage. Pick tomatoes as they redden.
  • Never refrigerate fresh tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that make up that garden tomato taste.
  • To freeze, core fresh unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they defrost.

See more on properly storing tomatoes and vegetables.

Recommended Varieties

Tomatoes grow in all sizes, from tiny "currant" to "cherry" to large "beefsteak." There are hundreds of varieties to suit different climates and tastes. Here are a few of our favorites:

  • ‘Amish Paste’: Large paste tomatoes, good slicers.
  • ‘Brandywine’: A beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination. Many variants are available.
  • ‘Matt’s Wild Cherry’: Foolproof in any climate, cherries bear abundant fruit in high or low temps and in rain or drought.

For more about tomato varieties, see our post on "Tomato Trials: from blue to grafted; what grew this summer."
 

Recipes

Cooking Notes

Capture the garden-fresh taste of tomatoes all year long! See this helpful post on how to can tomatoes.

Wit & Wisdom

In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Wealthy people believed that the fruits were poisonous. Only the peasants were brave (and hungry) enough to eat them.

Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.

Comments

City Girl fails at tomatoes

My great tomato experiment of 2011 has my husband & me totally confounded.

I've been bugging my friend with ridiculously elementary questions... requiring her garden 'tech-support' so I don't really want to annoy her any longer. Maybe one of you can help?

This was the first year we planted anything at all - three tomato plants. We had expert supervision when planting and followed all the advice we got.

Recently someone told us to stop watering tomatoes at a certain time... which we did. Two days later, all the vines have all drooped. Garden Tech Support Friend said that's normal. Cool.

I went outside just to see the extent of the 'droopage' and I noticed on one of the tomato plants that finally, after weeks of care, we had actual red tomatoes!

I was so happy to see them, I picked all five or six of them, like a proud parent - and went to show my husband: We tried them - but they were mealy and mushy and not that sweet.

So then I went to the other two plants, and indeed, down below and way in the back there more red ones.

But the odd thing is, each of the three plants produced the exact same result. Smallish mealy mushy fruit, and the color was not the right red, more of a red/dark pink. They're all exactly the same - just a bit bigger than cherry tomatoes.

We did everything right! Or maybe not!? Did we over water them? And if that's the case, now that we've stopped over watering them, will the future little green ones have any chance of being nice tomatoes? Or have we ruined all subsequent tomatoes too?

The internet has lots of theories, but most of them say the reason is leaving them on the vine too long - which I know isn't the case with these.

Now today I just heard that "Heritage" Tomatoes are having a bad year. Is that possible?

I feel like apologizing to the plants and promising never to try to grow anything again. I'm a former New Yorker. Nature is the potted plant on your fire escape.

Help.

Don’t get discouraged. All

Don’t get discouraged. All beginner gardeners have learning hurdles and even experienced gardeners never stop learning! We’re not sure where you live—and we wonder if it’s in a warm place. Here are a few common reasons for soft tomatoes:

1. If tomatoes are soft, usually it’s just overripe and you want to harvest sooner.
 

2. Or, if the temps have gone over 90 degrees and you let them fully ripen on the plant, they can become mushy.

3. Did you overfeed the tomatoes?  This is most likely is a nutrient imbalance, most likely too much nitrogen. Too much fertilizer with nitrogen or not enough potassium can be an issue.  If you buy a fertilizer, be sure to apply a 1:3 nitrogen-to-potassium liquid fertilizer.

We’re not sure why the tomatoes are smaller than you expected. Is it a ripening issue? Temps above 85*F and under 55*F will affect the ripening of tomatoes. If the temp is too low, the tomatoes can freeze overnight, causing them to become mushy as they thaw the next day (this is a sign of decay and means they are not safe to eat).

Did you get enough sun?  Tomatoes need a LOT of sun: 6 to 8 hours a day. Or, if it’s just size, that could be due to lack of moisture. You could also help growth by removing the small tomatoes and the stems and leaves that are offshoots to help channel energy into the rest of the tomatoes.

http://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/yard/2004/110604.html

purple?

My tomatoes are doing great but I noticed on some of the stems are turning purple..in the creases of the stems??? Is this normal?? Is it a disease or a deficiency? Please help... :)

if you don't see any insects,

if you don't see any insects, then it is probably a phosphorus deficiency that is causing the purple tinged leaves. This problem can be fixed by amending your fertilizer accordingly. Good luck!

yellow leaves

I am planting my tomatoes in containers this year. They are looking great: healthy & blooming. But I am starting to see some very yellow leaves at the bottom of the plant. I always thought that was a sign of over watering, but I feel sure I am not doing that. Any ideas??

mscjw's picture

starting tomato seeds in an unheated greenhouse

Do I need to be putting fish emulsion on my plants? They are approximately 2 inches tall at this time, we didn't get the greenhouse up until Apri lst and I am thinking I am a little behind.

tomatoes in containers

Need help as soon as possible. I just planted my tomatoe seedlings (size ranges from 4 in to almost a foot tall) in black plastic one gallon containers with drip holes in the bottom. They were planted with new bags of garden soil and new bags of organic manure. Today I watered them with Miracle Gro. I live in Florida and have put metal cages in the containers. Will one gallon containers be big enough or will they need transplanting as they get bigger. They get morning sun and later afternoon shade. Last year we had problems with tomato hornworms and yellowing leaves and stems after the first set of blooms and tomatoes. Should I put sevin dust on them now? Or should I put a marigold plant in each of the containers? I have around 22 plants. Would coffee grounds be good to add to the soil for tomatoes and how often? Or are coffee grounds just for roses and how often for roses? What about putting banana peels in the containers with the plants? Would that be helpful?

fox621's picture

Sprouts falling over

I started my tomato plants a couple weeks ago from seed and most of them look great, but a few sprouts here and there are simply falling over. I don't know if this is because they are not getting enough water (though I water them at least twice daily), I'm using too much miracle-gro, or they're not getting enough sunlight which is making them too tall to hold themselves up. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Some things to try....

There are a few things you can do to help your tomato plants.
-pinch them back
-water them more often
-take the plants and lay them on their sides for about 1/3 of the plant. This was in a local article by a master gardener. He claims that 'we' don't plant enough of our tomatoe plants in the ground. You can plant up to 1/2 of the plant into the ground to encourage better root growth. The same can be accomplished by planting the plant on its side and leaving the top 1/3 above the ground.
-increase the amount of sunlight. Lack of sunlight encourages leggy plants, so you'll have to pinch them back to encourage good bushy growth.
-also you should only be watering them in the mornings, watering them later in the day encourages rot and fungus as the plants don't have sufficient time to dry off before dark.

Keep us posted as to what you do and how the plants are doing. ~Nanette

fox621's picture

Thank you very much Nanette!

Thank you very much Nanette! I have one more question I'm hoping you can answer for me. How much should I water them each morning? As I said earlier I stared them from seed a couple weeks ago so they are no more than approximately 2 inches tall currently and I have them in individual cells in a seed tray.

tomatoes

my tall tomato plants are just starting to flower. but today i noticed the leaves are all wilty. what does that mean??

tomatoes & lack of fertilizer or water

You're plants could be 'wilting' due to lack of water. Once the plants begin to flower it takes more energy to produce flowers and fruit. You'll need to fertilize now and increase the water you give. Tomatoes LOVE water, they are mostly water so you have to give water and fertilizer to get good tomatoes.

Also if they are really 'tall' they may be 'leggy' and need pinching back. Bushy is better than leggy in this case.
Good luck~Nanette

How often do you water? Are

How often do you water? Are there any bugs on or under the leaves? Has it been really hot in your area?

If they are getting enough water, there are no bugs and the weather has not been too hot, then look at how much fertilizer has been used. Has anyone been spraying weed killer in the area? I hope some of this helps.

I have never grown tomatoes before

This year, i got one of those topsy turvy things and started a tomato plant, and this is my first shot at growing ANYthing. It started out about an inch tall. but now it is well over 2 feet. i water it everyday, with miracle gro in it. no tomatoes yet. i started it in late april, possibly early may. it has blossomed once or twice, but those blossoms just shrivelled away. some ideas would be fabulous!!

Topsy turvy planters

Hi Last year I used topsy turvy to grow 2 tomatoes and a green pepper on my porch. It was an experiment. I wanted to see which did better, this or the garden.

Well, I have to say my topsy did best. I used a home-made recipe: 1/2 compost, 1/2 light soil mix and some fertilizer. I mixed it all together and then put it in my planters. My tomato plants were over 7 ft long and had mulitple 'vines' I kept pinching and got some tomatoes and pepper from each. Because they were hung on the porch, I had tomatoes and peppers until december until the frost came and eventually killed them off.

Stop fertilizing every time you water. Too much is NOT a good thing. If you mix in a good fertilizer when you pot up, you won't need any more for the growing season.

Good luck~Nanette

tomatoes

keep in mind that if you are feeding your tomatoes miracle gro, then you will be feeding yourself that as well when you eat the tomato.
an excellent fertilizer for anything you grow: get a bag of dehydrated manure, or any form of bagged manure (it isn't gross and doesn't smell) - MOO DOO is a good brand. if you take a couple good handfuls, as big as you can scoop between two hands, put it in a five gallon bucket (for smaller containers, adjust the amount of manure), fill the bucket with water, let it sit for a day or however long to make "tea". use this tea for watering your plants and your plants and your body will be much happier.
you can keep refilling the bucket with water as you use it up without needing to add more manure until the tea looks really weak. then you can add the manure on the bottom of the bucket directly into the soil around your plants and start over.
one of the problems with chemical fertilizers, one of the many problems i should say, is that the plant becomes addicted and therefore dependent on them and can suffer from its use just as people suffer from chemical addictions.
sometimes the chemicals are too much for the plants and they may start out well, but don't do well if they have been fed nothing but that.
i would try switching to the manure tea. if you have ONLY been feeding it miracle gro every time you water, that is definitely too much...you may have to wean it off miracle gro rather than going cold turkey, and introduce the tea into it regularly to help balance out the tomatoes' withdrawals.

Hi Carie, try cutting back on

Hi Carie, try cutting back on the miracle gro. Your plants don't need it everyday. Too much nitrogen in your fertilizer could be causing lush foliage, but it won't do anything to help fruit set. Heat stress may also be the culprit here. If temps are sweltering, move plants inside for a couple of hours a day, and make sure it's getting plenty of (plain) water!

BROWN TOMATOE PLANTS

THE BOTTOM OF SOME OF MY PLANTS LOOK LIKE THEY ARE DYING, I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO, THE TOPS LOOK GREAT, AND AT THE MOMENT THEY ARE PRODUCING FINE.

brown bottoms

Just pull off the lower leaves. They are dying and that's okay. As a rule of thumb I don't keep any leaves that touch the ground. Keeping these brown leaves on the plant encourages disease.
~Nanette

Mocking birds eating my tomatoes

Does anyone have any good advice on how to deter birds from pecking into tomatoes? I was away for a few days, knew I had tomatoes ripening soon, but came home to a family of mocking birds making a feast out of my tomatoes! A classic novel title comes to mind on what I'd like to do. . .

Bird scare

I tie plastic bags to the tomato stakes and wind flops them around. Great scare crow.

birds eating tomatos

We hang aluminum pie plates near the plants so that that can blow in the breeze, clang together etc.... keeps the birds at bay for us! Good luck!

Nutrients Tomatoes need that will help their growth

Tomatoes need calcuim and magneisum, there are two ways to get these. Lime ( I use the pulverized) will give them the calcium they need to help prevent the blossom end rot and other things. And Epsom Salt which can be used for two different things one magnesium and one for bug control. For Magnesium mix 1 TBSP per gallon of water per foot of plant height and either spray it on the plant, or place it in a container next to the plant to let it absorb into the ground to the roots. About every two weeks. The way I do it is take a milk jug cut off the bottom and push it in the gound upside down beside the plant, then put the solution in the jug and it will seep into the ground as it is needed. If you want to use it as a bug control. Use 2 TBSP per gal of water per foot height of plant and spray onto plant. This can be done every two weeks. If you want when you use the Epsom Salts as a food, you can also add some Miracle Grow in with it, which will also help

Stopping Height Of Plant

Could anyone tell me how to top plant off,so that it will quit growing in height and not kill plant.

Tomato leaves rolling up

I have two plants with leaves that are rolling up. What causes leaf roll? They look healthy otherwise. When I planted, I added crushed egg shells, 2 aspirin, handful of bone meal, fish head and 4-6-4 fertilizer to the hole. I spray a mixture of worm casting tea and 1.5 aspirin for fertilizer, once a week. The other three plants look fine with no rolling. I did notice some of the larger leaves at the bottom of the plant are turning slightly yellow. Maybe they are stressed? Any help is greatly appreciated!

no Tomatoes

I have large tomatoes bushes but when the blossom comes on it drys up and dies with no tomatoe on the end What do I need to do?????

Tammy, I think we are in the

Tammy, I think we are in the same boat when it comes to raising tomatoes. I think I am going to take a chance on setting them out earlier next year, even before the last frost. We don't have much of a Spring here in the part of Texas I am in. Winter to Summer and that's about it. I heard and it's only hear-say, that if it stays above 72 degrees at night, the blossums would drop. I hope someone comes aboard and tells us what could be wrong with our Tomatoes.

Tomato Plants

My tomatoe plants are beautiful but all my blossums disappear before the fruit sets. I have been sprinking sevin-dust over plants, to ward off any insects. I live in Texas and it's hot here. Could that be the culprit? They get enough water.

blossums

I'm using Tomato & Peper Set on my tomato's and they are doing good, I've also heared that sugar water doe's well I don't know for sure.

Tomatoes

I have had the best tomatoe plants yet this year. But they won't get real red I have to pick them early so they won't get rotten. I have some sort of little flying bugs on the tomatoe themselves when I go out to work in the garden. I live i southeast TX can u help with this problem

Hi Edith, it sounds like it

Hi Edith, it sounds like it may be too hot in southeast Texas! Once tomatoes begin to turn pink, bring them indoors to finish ripening (it sounds like you've already been doing this). The plant cannot carry out its normal functions in excessive heat. The bugs you described sound like aphids. See tips here: http://www.almanac.com/content/aphids

tomatoes cracking

I live in Tucson. My Celebrity tomatoes are cracking. They are in raised beds and I water the same time every day with a drip hose. They get 4 hours of sun in the a.m. and 5 hours in the p.m. The rest of the day the sun screen shades them.
Any help I can get would be greatly appreciated.

Hi rcain, it sounds like you

Hi rcain, it sounds like you are taking good care of your tomatoes, but here are a few more tips to try: Add 2-4 inches of mulch around your plants. This will help provide uniform moisture throughout. Also, make sure you aren't over pruning. While 'Celebrity' is semi- crack resistant, next year, go for varieties that are crack resistant such as 'Avalanche' or 'Show Me'.

Thanks for the information.

Thanks for the information. I will try it and see if it works and change varieties next year. My Stupice tomatoes are working out just fine.

Tomato Plant Question

My tomato plants have healthy green leaves and robust growth. However there are very few blossoms or tomatoes set. How do I best encourage tomato growth rather than foliage growth? Plants have been fertilized with liquid seaweed (foliage), a liquid fertilizer and compost tea.

Hi Jim, Here are some tips to

Hi Jim, Here are some tips to encourage tomatoes: Make sure you water adequately. The plant needs enough moisture to produce the fruit--which is mostly water itself! Make sure your plant is getting 6 hours of direct sunlight per day, but don't expose it to high temperatures for long periods. You may have over-fertilized with nitrogen. Nitrogen causes foliage growth, but does little to encourage fruit set. You can try pruning off a few of the leaves. Finally, make sure you have a variety that is adapted to your Zone. Good luck, Jim!

spotty tomatoes

im trying "hanging plants" for the first time. i used a good potting soil and it keeps drying out to fast. i re-water and the fruit has brown spots. where am i going WRONG on this

adding calcium

I wonder if placing one Tum's tablet under each tomato would do the trick? They are calcium tablets.

adding calcium

I have a book that says take eggs shells (cleaned)break up and put into soil around tomatoes. Another suggestion was to put eggshells in a water bottle or can and let set overnight and then use water on certain plants. I've tried the egg shells in the soil when planting. But not sure if helps yet; will see.

Soil acidity

My soil is pretty base (7.0 +), what is the most natural way to make it more acidic especially with tomatoes?

Soil acidity...

Espoma Organic Traditions Soil Acidifier
http://www.espoma.com/p_consumer/org_trad_overview.html
It is carried at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

pH Tomatoes

Simply stating "acidic" doesn't help the average gardener very much.
Tomatoes like a somewhat acidic soil: 6:2 - 6:8 w/6:5 probably the best, they do adapt though to some variance.

Tomatoes and eggs

Iv'e heard if you put a raw egg in the hole before you plant tomatoes It will help them. Is this true? Thanks Nancy

Tomatoes and Eggs...

Crushed up egg shells in the planting holes (approx. 2 tbls.) is good for blossom end rot, which is caused by lack of calcium.

I'm not sure about the raw

I'm not sure about the raw egg, but Thymey's right about the fish.
The Native American tribes thought it was a great idea to bury fish with their corn seeds; they thought it helped grow healthier plants. Fish is a great fertilizer, and it probably works for tomato plants, too.

re: tomatoes and eggs

I would think that it would be beneficial if your soil is in need of nitrates and calcium; like adding a whole fish under a three sister's plot?

adding calcium

I wonder if adding a Tums tablet under each plant would help with the calcium? They break down easily and are basically all calcium.

Tums

Any Calcium based antacid will work. I have had to resort to this method a couple of times. I also found out you have to re-apply in a couple of weeks. Had not heard of the egg shells untill today. Makes sense though. I will be using that idea this year.