Tomatoes

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Botanical name: Lycopersicon esculentum

Plant type: Vegetable

USDA Hardiness Zones: 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

Sun exposure: Full Sun

Soil type: Loamy

Soil pH: Acidic


Tomatoes are America’s favorite garden vegetable. (Yes, we technically eat the fruit of the tomato plant, but it's used as a vegetable in eating and cooking and, thus, usually categorized in vegetables.)

This vine plant is fairly easy to grow and will produce a bumper crop with proper care. Its uses are versatile, however, tomatoes are susceptible to a range of pests and diseases.

Planting

  • If you're planting seeds (versus purchasing transplants), you'll want to start your seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. See our post on "Tomatoes From Seed the Easy Way."
  • Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil. For northern regions, is is VERY important that your site receives at least 6 hours of sun. For souther regions, light afternoon shade will help tomatoes survive and thrive.
  • Two weeks before transplanting seedlings outdoors, till soil to about 1 foot and mix in aged manure, compost, or fertilizer.
  • Harden off transplants for a week before moving outdoors.
  • Transplant after last spring frost when the soil is warm. See our Best Planting Dates for Transplants for your region.
  • Establish stakes or cages in the soil at the time of planting. Staking keeps developing fruit off the ground, while caging let’s the plant hold itself upright. Some sort of support system is recommended, but sprawling can also produce fine crops if you have the space, and if the weather cooperates.
  • Plant seedlings two feet apart.
  • Pinch off a few of the lower branches on transplants, and plant the root ball deep enough so that the remaining lowest leaves are just above the surface of the soil.
  • Water well to reduce shock to the roots.

Care

  • Water generously for the first few days.
  • Water well throughout growing season, about 2 inches per week during the summer. Keep watering consistent!
  • Mulch five weeks after transplanting to retain moisture.
  • To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks pull up water from under the ground and keep it from evaporating into the atmosphere.
  • Fertilize two weeks prior to first picking and again two weeks after first picking.
  • If using stakes, prune plants by pinching off suckers so that only a couple stems are growing per stake.
  • Practice crop rotation from year to year to prevent diseases that may have over wintered.

Pests

Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests, especially tomato hornworms and whiteflies. Link to our pest & problem pages below.

  • Aphids
  • Flea Beetles
  • Tomato Hornworm
  • Whiteflies
  • Late Blight is a fungal disease that can strike during any part of the growing season. It will cause grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. This disease will overwinter, so all infected plants should be destroyed. See our blog on "Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato."
  • Tobacco Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don't put them in your compost pile).
  • Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs in extreme humidity or rainy periods in conjunction with dry periods. Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.
  • Blossom end rot creates Black, indented area on bottoms of fruit, most likely to affect your first picking. Keep moisture levels constant and try using a calcium solution on leaves and fruit.
  • Blossom Drop: Reduce by protecting the plant from too low or too high temperatures, high relative humidity, and excessive wind. Misshapen fruit can occur due to poor pollination.

Harvest/Storage

  • Leave your tomatoes on the vine as long as possible. If any fall off before they appear ripe, place them in a paper bag with the stem up and store them in a cool, dark place.
  • Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
  • The perfect tomato for picking will be firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. A ripe tomato will be only slightly soft.
  • If your tomato plant still has fruit when the first hard frost threatens, pull up the entire plant and hang it upside down in the basement or garage. Pick tomatoes as they redden.
  • Never refrigerate fresh tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that make up that garden tomato taste.
  • To freeze, core fresh unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they defrost.

See more on properly storing tomatoes and vegetables.

Recommended Varieties

Tomatoes grow in all sizes, from tiny "currant" to "cherry" to large "beefsteak." There are hundreds of varieties to suit different climates and tastes. Here are a few of our favorites:

  • ‘Amish Paste’: Large paste tomatoes, good slicers.
  • ‘Brandywine’: A beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination. Many variants are available.
  • ‘Matt’s Wild Cherry’: Foolproof in any climate, cherries bear abundant fruit in high or low temps and in rain or drought.

For more about tomato varieties, see our post on "Tomato Trials: from blue to grafted; what grew this summer."
 

Recipes

Cooking Notes

Capture the garden-fresh taste of tomatoes all year long! See this helpful post on how to can tomatoes.

Wit & Wisdom

In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Wealthy people believed that the fruits were poisonous. Only the peasants were brave (and hungry) enough to eat them.

Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.

Comments

Manure tea

I used this for watering my tomatoes and sweet banana peppers. I had a bumper crop that year. I was growing beefsteak tomatoes, sweet celebrity 100 cherry tomatoes, brandywine and patio. Could not give them away fast emough. Really works. I think it is better than miracle grow and is mush healthier for you.

Hi Carie, try cutting back on

Hi Carie, try cutting back on the miracle gro. Your plants don't need it everyday. Too much nitrogen in your fertilizer could be causing lush foliage, but it won't do anything to help fruit set. Heat stress may also be the culprit here. If temps are sweltering, move plants inside for a couple of hours a day, and make sure it's getting plenty of (plain) water!

BROWN TOMATOE PLANTS

THE BOTTOM OF SOME OF MY PLANTS LOOK LIKE THEY ARE DYING, I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO, THE TOPS LOOK GREAT, AND AT THE MOMENT THEY ARE PRODUCING FINE.

brown bottoms

Just pull off the lower leaves. They are dying and that's okay. As a rule of thumb I don't keep any leaves that touch the ground. Keeping these brown leaves on the plant encourages disease.
~Nanette

Mocking birds eating my tomatoes

Does anyone have any good advice on how to deter birds from pecking into tomatoes? I was away for a few days, knew I had tomatoes ripening soon, but came home to a family of mocking birds making a feast out of my tomatoes! A classic novel title comes to mind on what I'd like to do. . .

Bird scare

I tie plastic bags to the tomato stakes and wind flops them around. Great scare crow.

birds eating tomatos

We hang aluminum pie plates near the plants so that that can blow in the breeze, clang together etc.... keeps the birds at bay for us! Good luck!

Nutrients Tomatoes need that will help their growth

Tomatoes need calcuim and magneisum, there are two ways to get these. Lime ( I use the pulverized) will give them the calcium they need to help prevent the blossom end rot and other things. And Epsom Salt which can be used for two different things one magnesium and one for bug control. For Magnesium mix 1 TBSP per gallon of water per foot of plant height and either spray it on the plant, or place it in a container next to the plant to let it absorb into the ground to the roots. About every two weeks. The way I do it is take a milk jug cut off the bottom and push it in the gound upside down beside the plant, then put the solution in the jug and it will seep into the ground as it is needed. If you want to use it as a bug control. Use 2 TBSP per gal of water per foot height of plant and spray onto plant. This can be done every two weeks. If you want when you use the Epsom Salts as a food, you can also add some Miracle Grow in with it, which will also help

Stopping Height Of Plant

Could anyone tell me how to top plant off,so that it will quit growing in height and not kill plant.

Tomato leaves rolling up

I have two plants with leaves that are rolling up. What causes leaf roll? They look healthy otherwise. When I planted, I added crushed egg shells, 2 aspirin, handful of bone meal, fish head and 4-6-4 fertilizer to the hole. I spray a mixture of worm casting tea and 1.5 aspirin for fertilizer, once a week. The other three plants look fine with no rolling. I did notice some of the larger leaves at the bottom of the plant are turning slightly yellow. Maybe they are stressed? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Leaf Roll

Leaf roll can be caused by many things. You state the plants are yellowing... it could be water is not reaching those plants or it could mean they have pests sucking on them or it could be disease. Have a look at the leaves and if no pests water them well and also take a look online for pictures of tomato diseases so you can remove them before they infect your other plants.

no Tomatoes

I have large tomatoes bushes but when the blossom comes on it drys up and dies with no tomatoe on the end What do I need to do?????

Tammy, I think we are in the

Tammy, I think we are in the same boat when it comes to raising tomatoes. I think I am going to take a chance on setting them out earlier next year, even before the last frost. We don't have much of a Spring here in the part of Texas I am in. Winter to Summer and that's about it. I heard and it's only hear-say, that if it stays above 72 degrees at night, the blossums would drop. I hope someone comes aboard and tells us what could be wrong with our Tomatoes.

Tomato Plants

My tomatoe plants are beautiful but all my blossums disappear before the fruit sets. I have been sprinking sevin-dust over plants, to ward off any insects. I live in Texas and it's hot here. Could that be the culprit? They get enough water.

blossums

I'm using Tomato & Peper Set on my tomato's and they are doing good, I've also heared that sugar water doe's well I don't know for sure.

Tomatoes

I have had the best tomatoe plants yet this year. But they won't get real red I have to pick them early so they won't get rotten. I have some sort of little flying bugs on the tomatoe themselves when I go out to work in the garden. I live i southeast TX can u help with this problem

Hi Edith, it sounds like it

Hi Edith, it sounds like it may be too hot in southeast Texas! Once tomatoes begin to turn pink, bring them indoors to finish ripening (it sounds like you've already been doing this). The plant cannot carry out its normal functions in excessive heat. The bugs you described sound like aphids. See tips here: http://www.almanac.com/content/aphids

tomatoes cracking

I live in Tucson. My Celebrity tomatoes are cracking. They are in raised beds and I water the same time every day with a drip hose. They get 4 hours of sun in the a.m. and 5 hours in the p.m. The rest of the day the sun screen shades them.
Any help I can get would be greatly appreciated.

Hi rcain, it sounds like you

Hi rcain, it sounds like you are taking good care of your tomatoes, but here are a few more tips to try: Add 2-4 inches of mulch around your plants. This will help provide uniform moisture throughout. Also, make sure you aren't over pruning. While 'Celebrity' is semi- crack resistant, next year, go for varieties that are crack resistant such as 'Avalanche' or 'Show Me'.

Thanks for the information.

Thanks for the information. I will try it and see if it works and change varieties next year. My Stupice tomatoes are working out just fine.

Tomato Plant Question

My tomato plants have healthy green leaves and robust growth. However there are very few blossoms or tomatoes set. How do I best encourage tomato growth rather than foliage growth? Plants have been fertilized with liquid seaweed (foliage), a liquid fertilizer and compost tea.

Too much nitrogen

I would cut back on the nitrogen for a bit.
Nitrogen gives more leaves.

Hi Jim, Here are some tips to

Hi Jim, Here are some tips to encourage tomatoes: Make sure you water adequately. The plant needs enough moisture to produce the fruit--which is mostly water itself! Make sure your plant is getting 6 hours of direct sunlight per day, but don't expose it to high temperatures for long periods. You may have over-fertilized with nitrogen. Nitrogen causes foliage growth, but does little to encourage fruit set. You can try pruning off a few of the leaves. Finally, make sure you have a variety that is adapted to your Zone. Good luck, Jim!

spotty tomatoes

im trying "hanging plants" for the first time. i used a good potting soil and it keeps drying out to fast. i re-water and the fruit has brown spots. where am i going WRONG on this

adding calcium

I wonder if placing one Tum's tablet under each tomato would do the trick? They are calcium tablets.

adding calcium

I have a book that says take eggs shells (cleaned)break up and put into soil around tomatoes. Another suggestion was to put eggshells in a water bottle or can and let set overnight and then use water on certain plants. I've tried the egg shells in the soil when planting. But not sure if helps yet; will see.

Soil acidity

My soil is pretty base (7.0 +), what is the most natural way to make it more acidic especially with tomatoes?

Natural Acidity

You can add leaf mulch or pine needles that have fallen from the trees.

Soil acidity...

Espoma Organic Traditions Soil Acidifier
http://www.espoma.com/p_consumer/org_trad_overview.html
It is carried at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

pH Tomatoes

Simply stating "acidic" doesn't help the average gardener very much.
Tomatoes like a somewhat acidic soil: 6:2 - 6:8 w/6:5 probably the best, they do adapt though to some variance.

Tomatoes and eggs

Iv'e heard if you put a raw egg in the hole before you plant tomatoes It will help them. Is this true? Thanks Nancy

Tomatoes and Eggs...

Crushed up egg shells in the planting holes (approx. 2 tbls.) is good for blossom end rot, which is caused by lack of calcium.

Calcium

One could add crushed Oyster shell (fed to chickens to help harden shells on eggs). But if your calcium is locked up in the soil due to an imbalance this won't help. You could try epsom salts to add magnesium first. There must be magnesium in the soil to help the plants take up calcium.

I'm not sure about the raw

I'm not sure about the raw egg, but Thymey's right about the fish.
The Native American tribes thought it was a great idea to bury fish with their corn seeds; they thought it helped grow healthier plants. Fish is a great fertilizer, and it probably works for tomato plants, too.

re: tomatoes and eggs

I would think that it would be beneficial if your soil is in need of nitrates and calcium; like adding a whole fish under a three sister's plot?

adding calcium

I wonder if adding a Tums tablet under each plant would help with the calcium? They break down easily and are basically all calcium.

Tums

Any Calcium based antacid will work. I have had to resort to this method a couple of times. I also found out you have to re-apply in a couple of weeks. Had not heard of the egg shells untill today. Makes sense though. I will be using that idea this year.

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