Growing Bell Peppers


Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Bell Peppers

Bell Peppers on Plant
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Sweet bell peppers are a tender, warm-season crop and a relative of the tomato. Here’s how to plant and grow bell peppers in your garden! 

Peppers resist most garden pests and offer something for everyone: spicy, sweet, or hot; and a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. On this page, we focus on growing sweet bell peppers.

Unlike their spicy brethren, bell peppers do not contain capsaicin, which is the compound that gives hot peppers such as jalapeño peppers their pungency and heat.

Common Bell Pepper Questions

Do different-colored peppers come from different plants? 

Surprisingly enough, the green and red bell peppers that we commonly see in supermarkets are actually the same pepper; the red bell peppers have just been allowed to mature on the plant longer, which changes their color and lets them develop a higher Vitamin C content. More mature peppers also tend to be sweeter than their greener counterparts.

However, there are quite a few varieties of bell peppers out there, including purple, yellow, orange, white, and brown ones. 

Are there male and female peppers?

There is a popular myth which states that pepper fruits can be either male or female—the difference between them being that male peppers have 3 bumps on the bottom and are better for cooking, while female peppers have 4 bumps, have more seeds, are sweeter, and are better for eating raw. This is not true! Pepper fruits do not have a gender and any obvious difference between fruits is simply the result of growing conditions or variety.

Planting Dates for BELL PEPPERS

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Planting Calendar for all Plants


When to Plant Peppers

  • Peppers are a tender, warm-season crop, so they typically need to be started indoors if grown from seed. Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before your last spring frost date.
  • Bell peppers require a fairly long growing season (60 to 90 days), which is another reason to start them indoors: they get a nice headstart!
  • If growing from nursery-bought transplants, plant them outdoors 2 to 3 weeks after the threat of frost has passed. Be sure to harden young plants off prior to planting outdoors, as peppers are very sensitive to cool temperatures.

Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site

  • Pepper plants require full sun to produce the largest and healthiest fruit, so pick a site that won’t get shaded out by trees or other garden plants.
  • Soil should be well-draining and rich in organic matter. Peppers don’t like to have “wet feet,” so avoid planting them in locations that get too wet.
  • A soil consistency somewhere between sandy and loamy will ensure that the soil drains well and warms quickly. 
  • Soil pH should be on the slightly acidic side—6.0 to 7.0, ideally.
  • A week before transplanting peppers into the garden, introduce fertilizer or aged compost into your garden soil. Alternatively, mix in a slow-release fertilizer.
  • Avoid planting peppers in places where you’ve recently grown other members of the nightshade family—such as tomatoes, potatoes, or eggplants—as this can expose peppers to disease.

Spacing for Peppers

How to Plant Peppers

  • In most cases, we recommend starting seeds indoors rather than in the garden. However, if you live in a warm, frost-free area, peppers may be direct-seeded in the garden.
  • The soil temperature should be at least 70°F (21°C) for optimal seed germination, so keep them in a warm area for the best and fastest results. Use a heat pad under the seed tray, if necessary.
  • Plant seeds about ¼-inch deep (or refer to the seed packet).

Transplanting Young Plants into the Garden

  • Begin to harden off plants about 10 days before transplanting outdoors, which should be done 2 to 3 weeks after the threat of frost has passed in the spring.
  • Once nighttime temperatures reach at least 60°F (16°C), transplant seedlings outdoors, spacing them 18 to 24 inches apart.
  • Plant the transplants no deeper than they were already planted in their pots; otherwise, the stems may become more susceptible to rot.
  • The soil temperature should be at least 60°F (16°C) at the time of planting (though warmer is better), as peppers are very sensitive to cool temperatures. Speed up the warming of the soil by covering it with black plastic or a dark mulch about a week before you intend to plant.

Check out this video to learn how to plant bell peppers:


How to Grow Peppers

  • Soil should be well draining, but be sure to maintain adequate moisture either with mulch or plastic covering. Read more about using mulch.
  • Water one to two inches per square foot per week, but remember that sweet peppers are extremely heat sensitive. They are also susceptible to blossom-end rot if watering is not adequate. If you live in a warm or desert climate, or are simply experiencing a hot, dry summer, watering everyday may be necessary.
  • Fertilize with a low-nitrogen fertilizer after the first fruit set. (Too much nitrogen can cause the plant to produce foliage instead of flowers and fruit!)
  • Weed carefully around plants to avoid disturbing roots.
  • If necessary, support plants with cages or stakes to prevent bending. Try commercially available cone-shaped wire tomato cages. They may not be ideal for tomatoes, but they are just the thing for peppers. Or, build your own garden supports.

Green bell peppers on plant


Pest/Disease Type Symptoms Control/Prevention
Anthracnose Fungus Yellow/brown/purple/black spots on leaves; sunken, dark spots on stems and fruit; spots may develop a salmon-pink, gelatinous mass; eventually, plants rot Destroy infected plants; choose resistent varieties; provide good drainage; avoid overhead watering; apply compost for nutrition; use mulch; practice crop rotation. Find images and more information about anthracnose here.
Aphids  Insect Misshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky “honeydew” (excrement produced by aphids); sooty, black mold that forms on honeydew; large presence of ants on plants Grow companion plants to either attract aphids away (nasturtiums) or repel them outright (basil, rosemary, strong-scented plants); knock aphids off plants with water spray, apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peel around plants; wipe leaves with a 1-2% solution of liquid dish soap and water every 2-3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to attract aphid predators. Find images and more information about aphids here.
Blossom-end Rot Nutrient Deficiency Caused by lack of sufficient calcium uptake.
Symptoms: dark, water-soaked spots on blossom end of fruit (the side opposite the stem) may enlarge and become sunken, leathery, rotted
Remove affected fruit; plant at proper soil temperature; water deeply and evenly; use mulch; maintain proper soil pH (6.5) and nutrient levels; avoid excessive nitrogen; provide good drainage; avoid damaging roots. Find more images and information about blossom-end rot here.
Colorado Potato Beetles Insect Yellow-orange eggs laid in clusters on leaf undersides; larvae and adults chew holes in foliage Remove eggs/larvae/beetles by hand; use straw mulch; weed around plants; use row covers; destroy plant matter at end of season; practice crop rotation
Flea Beetles Insect Numerous tiny holes in leaves (as if they had been hit by a tiny shotgun) Use row covers to physically block flea beetles; mulch heavily; add native plants to attract beneficial insect predators. Find more information and images of flea beetles here.
Mosaic Virus (Cucumber) Virus Symptoms vary, but may include: stunting; mottled green/yellow/white pattern or ringed spots on leaves/fruit; distorted leaf growth; warts on fruit Often spread by aphids. Destroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect gardening tools after each use; keep garden weed-free; use mulch. Find images and more information about mosaic viruses here.
Root-knot Nematodes Insect Roots become “knotted” or galled; plants stunted/yellow/wilted Destroy affected plant matter (especially roots); choose resistant varieties; expose soil to sun (solarize); add aged manure/compost; disinfect gardening tools between uses; till soil in autumn; practice crop rotation
Tomato Hornworms Insect Chewed leaves (initially toward top of plant); rapid defoliation; black/green excrement; gouged fruit Check undersides of leaves for hornworms, remove by hand and dispose of hornworms. (If you encounter hornworms that have white, ricelike cocoons on their backs, relocate them instead; the cocoons belong to beneficial parasitic wasps.) Till soil in autumn and spring; companion plant with dill/basil/marigolds to attract (and trap) or repel hornworms; spray plants with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). Find images and more information about hornworms here.
  • Pollination can be reduced in temperatures below 60°F (16°C) and above 90°F (32°C).
  • Too much nitrogen in the soil can produce healthy foliage growth but discourage fruit from setting.


How to Harvest Peppers

  • Harvest as soon as peppers reach desired size or color.
  • The longer bell peppers stay on the plant, the more sweet they become and the greater their vitamin C content.
  • Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut peppers clean off the plant.

How to Store Peppers

  • Peppers can be refrigerated in plastic bags for up to 10 days after harvesting.
  • Bell peppers can be dried, and we would recommend a conventional oven for the task:
    • Wash, core, and seed the peppers. Cut into one-half-inch strips. Steam for about ten minutes, then spread on a baking sheet. Dry in the oven at 140°F (or the lowest possible temperature) until brittle, stirring occasionally and switching tray positions. When the peppers are cool, put them in bags or storage containers.

Recommended Varieties

Wit & Wisdom



    Cooking Notes

    Vegetable Gardener's Handbook


    Growing Bell Peppers

    Botanical Name Capsicum annuum
    Plant Type Vegetable
    Sun Exposure Full Sun
    Soil Type Loamy
    Soil pH Slightly Acidic to Neutral
    Bloom Time Summer
    Flower Color White
    Hardiness Zones 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11
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