Growing Squash (Zucchini)

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Summer and Winter Squash

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Squash, especially zucchini, are outrageously prolific producers! Easy to grow, each plant will produce several squash a day during peak season! Here’s how to sow, grow, and harvest squash.

Chances are that you’ll end up with more zucchini harvest that you can handle. But that’s OK! See our recipes below for all the different ways you can enjoy (or preserve) zucchini. Plus, zucchini is full of nutrients! You can’t go wrong…unless you forget to harvest and end up with giant baseball bats! (More on how to harvest later.)

Squash are generally divided into two categories based on when they’re harvested and how they’re used:

Summer squash are warm-season crops harvested in the summer before they reach full maturity. Because they’re harvested early, their skin is edible and they have a relatively short shelf life. Summer squash varieties include zucchini, yellow squash (straightneck squash), and crookneck squash. T
Winter squash are harvested in autumn after or just before they reach full maturity. This leaves their skin inedible, but gives them a longer shelf life (some varieties are capable of keeping through the winter—hence the name “winter squash”). Winter squash varieties include pumpkins, butternut squash, spaghetti squash, and acorn squash.

Most summer squash now come in bush varieties, which take up less space, but winter squash are vining plants that need more space. Bush varieties will need to be thinned in early stages of development to about 8 to 12 inches apart.

Thanks to their regular bumper crops, you usually only need one or two zucchini plants—and you may still find yourself giving zucchini away to neighbors or baking lots of zucchini bread!

A Common Ancestor

Would you believe that pumpkins and zucchini come from the same species of plant? That’s right—they’re both cultivated varieties (“cultivars”) of Cucurbita pepo. Despite the great diversity of squash, most commonly-grown cultivars belong to one of three species: Cucurbita pepo, C. moschata, or C. maxima. Over generations and generations, these plants have been cultivated to produce fruit in all kinds of shapes, colors, and flavors.

Planting

When to Plant Squash

Sow squash/zucchini directly outside at least a week after your last frost date. The soil needs to be warm (at least 60ºF/16°C at a two-inch depth). The Garden Planner will calculate your exact planting dates for squash based on your location.
If you wish to start seeds indoors, sow 2 to 4 weeks before your last spring frost in peat pots.
Warm the soil with black plastic mulch once the soil has been prepared in early spring.
Do not rush. Waiting to plant will avoid problems from squash vine borers and other pests and diseases common earlier in the season.

Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site

Pick a spot with full sun, shelter from wind for good pollinations, and well-draining soil.
Squash plants are heavy feeders. Add plenty of garden compost or well-rotted manure to the soil before planting.
When you plant their holes, scatter in some organic fertilizer as well.

Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.

How to Plant Squash

Plant seeds in the ground about 1-inch deep and drop in 2 seeds. Pop a clear jar or half a plastic bottle over the top or use a cold frame protection in cold climates. Leave until the seedlings are up, and then remove the jar, and remove all but the strongest seedling.
Alternatively, plant as a “hill” of 3 or 4 seeds sown close together on a small mound; this is helpful in northern climates, as the soil is warmer off the ground. Allow 5 to 6 feet between hills.
If you wish to get a head start: Sow under cover in a greenhouse a couple weeks earlier. Fill small pots or seed trays with potting mix and sew one seed in each pot. Prepare small plants for life outdoors by “hardening off.” Set the pots outside for a week or two for a short time and increase the length of time. Plant after no risk of frost.
Plant squash at least 2 feet apart. (The Garden Planner will calculate spacing for you.)
Thoroughly water after planting.
Adding a layer on top of mulch or organic matter can help lock in soil moisture.

Demo: See How to Grow Zucchini and Summer Squash

Demo: See How to Grow Winter Squash

Care

How to Grow Squash

Mulch around plants to protect shallow roots, discourage weeds, and retain moisture.
When the first blooms appear (which will be male flowers), apply a small amount of fertilizer as a side dress application.
If your weather is cool, damp, or you’re not seeing pollinators, you can hand pollinate your squash blossoms.
For all types of squash, frequent and consistent watering is important for good fruit development. Water most diligently when fruits form and throughout their growth period.
Water deeply once a week, applying at least one inch of water. Do not water shallowly; the soil needs to be moist 4 inches down.
After harvest begins, fertilize occasionally for vigorous growth and lots of fruits.
If your fruits are misshapen, they might not have received enough water or fertilization.

Pests/Diseases

Powdery Mildew can be an issue on the leaves later on in the season. Keeping plants well-watered and leaving plenty of space between them for good air flow should slow the spread of this disease. If your squash does get powdery mildew, don’t worry about it; plants will usually cope.

There are few challenging insect pests. The best solution is to get ahead of them before they arrive. Click on the links below to learn more.

Blossom-End Rot is an occasional issue. If the blossom ends of your squash turn black and rot, then your squash have blossom-end rot. This condition is caused by uneven soil moisture levels, often wide fluctuations between wet and dry soil. It can also be caused by calcium levels. To correct the problem, water deeply and apply a thick mulch over the soil surface to keep evaporation at a minimum. Keep the soil evenly moist like a wrung out sponge, not wet and not completely dried out.

Harvest/Storage

Havesting Summer Squash

Begin harvesting zucchini and squash when the fruits are quite small (about 6 to 8 inches) Smaller fruits are more tender and flavorful with a denser, nuttier flesh. Believe us, smaller fruits have a far superior taste. If you have ever had a negative experience with zucchini before, it’s probably because they were left to become bruisers.

Please, please, please check every day once zucchini gets going. Plus, picking frequently can lead to a larger crop.

Most varieties average 60 days to maturity, and are ready as soon as a week after flowering. (Check the seed packet for more exact information.)
Cut your squash from the vine with a sharp knife rather than breaking them off. Leave at least an inch of stem on the fruit.
Should you miss a picking or two, remove the overripe squash as soon as possible to reduce demands on the plants for moisture and nutrients.
Summer squash is very susceptible to frost and heat damage, so you do want to pick them all before the first fall frosts arrive.
Store unwashed in the refrigerator until you’re ready to use. Fresh summer squash can be stored in the refrigerator for up to ten days.

Harvesting Winter Squash

Harvest winter squash when the rind is hard and deep in color, usually late September through October.
Winter squash can be stored in a cool, dark place until needed. Many varieties will last for most of the winter (except for acorn squash, which do not keep for more than a few weeks). If you have a cool bedroom, stashing them under the bed works well. They like a temperature of about 50 to 65°F (10 to 18°C).
Pull up the vines and compost them after you’ve picked everything or after a frost has killed them. Then till the soil to stir up the insects a bit.

Recommended Varieties

Summer Squash

‘Cashflow’: cylindrical zucchini type
‘Cocozella (di Napoli)’: zucchini heirloom; dark green, slender
‘Goldbar’: yellow summer squash
‘Horn of Plenty’: yellow crookneck type
‘Sunburst’: pattypan/scallop type
‘Tigress’: zucchini type

Winter Squash

‘Blue Hubbard’: heirloom, stores well
‘Butterbush’: butternut, winter
‘Buttercup’: long vines, round fruit
‘Cream of the Crop’ (acorn hybrid, winter)
‘Delicata’: bush type; tolerant of powdery mildew
‘Honeynut’: butternut hybrid that produces smaller fruit with great flavor
‘Tuffy’: acorn type; five or six fruit per plant
‘Waltham Butternut’: large, tan fruit; flavor improves with storage

Wit & Wisdom

Squash flowers are edible and make a tasty treat when fried in a light batter.
Pumpkins and other squashes are nutritional powerhouses! Learn about squash’s health benefits.

Recipes

Cooking Notes

There are so many ways to use your nutritious, tasty zucchini! From Zucchini Bread to Zucchini Gratin to Fried Zucchii, check out some of our many Almanac recipes!
Zucchini Bread recipe by Paula Deen

If you find yourself with a bumper crop, squash pickles are easy to make, too.

Or, freeze your squash! Wash it, cut off the ends, and slice or cube the squash. Blanch for three minutes, then immediately immerse in cold water and drain. Pack in freezer containers and freeze. Learn more tips for freezing zucchini.

See more of our Best Zucchini Recipes for ways to use this abundant crop!

Reader Comments

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Once you have a squash

Once you have a squash growing and the flower has wilted, the flower no longer serves a function. That being said, there is no need to remove the flower. It will dry up and fall off in its own good time. I would leave the plant as it is and let the flower fall off naturally.

My squash plants aren't

My squash plants aren't leafing out, they are just little sprouts still. But they are blooming already. Is this normal? If not what should I do?

I planted Spaghetti Squash in

I planted Spaghetti Squash in Mid March. Weather was warm in So Cal. The plant looks healthy and green with many male flowers. I have seen only 2 female squash which have been pollinated. My problem is I don't find any more female stems, only male. Is there anything I can do to promote more female to start?

The weather can slow things

The weather can slow things down but have patience; the female flowers will follow the males eventually!

My squash vines are huge and

My squash vines are huge and are blooming now. We have them in a raised bed with tomato cages upside down. They are already getting towards the top. Does it matter if the vines are large or should we take off some leaves for the sun to get to the blooms?

We have beautiful healthy

We have beautiful healthy yellow squash plants. We still do not have any flowers on them at all. We have had unusually cool temps for May and lots of wet weather . Should we be concerned that we have no flowers yet? Why don't we ? What can we do ? Thanks

You are correct in saying

You are correct in saying weather may play a role. It has been a cool, wet spring in many parts of the country. Cool weather with temperatures below 75 degrees Fahrenheit can delay flowering. Another reasons could include dry soil or overcrowding.
Sometimes a plant won't produce flowers if it receives too much nitrogen. Squash likes low nitrogen and higher phosphorus and potassium. If you think it might be too much nitrogen, you might apply some amendments that contain phosphorus and potassium to balance the nutrients. Ask a local garden nursery for options and timing.
Once it's warm enough, expect most summer squash to flower 35 to 45 days from germination.

My neighbor has a problem

My neighbor has a problem with his squash plants. Oddly, the plant leaves start turning brown around the edges and eventually die, but the squash keep producing nicely. Local agents mention "blight", but otherwise confess that they do not know the reason. Is it simply some sort of stress on the plants due to improper watering practices, or maybe soil problems, since it has been happening for the last two seasons? Should he even worry about it?

Brown leaf edges can be

Brown leaf edges can be caused by many things, including a period of cold temperatures (below 50 F) and wet weather. If there are no signs of spots on the leaves, or wilting, and the plant is doing fine in production, then it's probably not something to worry about. If your friend is curious, though, he might talk to his county's Cooperative Extension. Sometimes they will do tests to check for plant diseases, for a fee. For a list of agencies, see: http://www.almanac.com/content...

I have been trying for 2

I have been trying for 2 years to grow zucchini and the blossoms fall off and no produce grows. what am I doing wrong.

Hi, Betty: Sounds like a

Hi, Betty: Sounds like a pollination issue, if it's now happened for two years running. See the first item under "Pests" at the beginning of this forum above. You can identify females by the tiny fruit at the base of the flower. Happy zukin'! You can do it!

Hi there - i am a real newby

Hi there - i am a real newby gardener - green behind the ears if you know what i mean:). i planted some cozzelle zucchini. the first two 'cotyledons' or mini leaves are coming up for several of the plants but some are turning a bit yellow and it seems like it might be spreading. i planted them 2 weeks ago when it was still chilly at night. is it mold? or blossom end rot? am i watering too much?
please help?
thank you
Matty

I started yellow squash and

I started yellow squash and zucchini seeds and the yellow squash plants 6 weeks out are enormous and healthy with several green 4 inch leaves. The zucchini on the other hand is short with only 2 marginally healthy looking leaves, the others fell off or I plucked off perhaps wrongly because they were yellow or dry and brown inorder to save the plants energy to produce healthy leaves. But now it's starting to flower which seems way too early. Do I pluck the flowers? I've already plucked a few I feel like there's nothing left to this poor plant. Will the plant recover or should I start over?

Even if conditions were

Even if conditions were exactly the same for both squashes, the results may not be the same.
Zucchini seed germination requires a minimum soil temperature of 60°F, according to several sources, with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5. BTW, one even advices starting both squashes in the ground, to avoid transplanting failure.
It's difficult to know eactly what went wrong. See what happens with the existing seedlings, and try again and, if you do, save a couple of seeds to set directly into warm soil in the garden.
Good luck!

For the last 2 yrs., my

For the last 2 yrs., my squash(acorn & butternut) never got very big, and then rotted.. Any suggestions?

This squash problem is

This squash problem is probably blossom end rot. It won't spread but indicates a lack of calcium in the developing fruit.
You may have soil that is too acidic. The pH of acidic soils can be raised by adding lime, but this should only be done if soil test results indicate it is needed. To change pH, lime should be tilled into the soil 6” to 8” deep 2 to 3 months before planting (or as much lead time as possible) to change the nature of your soil. A little sprinkling of lime won't do much once they have the rot.

I have my squash started and

I have my squash started and they are about 6 inches tall. They seem kinda spindly. How do I avoid them getting leggy and kinking over?

This happens with squash as

This happens with squash as they get too warm inside and get leggy fast. Veggie like night temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees F. Day temperatures may run about 10 degrees higher. Is it possible to get them in the ground? Squash tend to work best when seeded outside; they'll germinate based on the temperature on their own.

Thank you for the info. I

Thank you for the info.
I can't plant them right now, but I will move them at night to a "cooler room"
and see if that helps.

I think my butternut squash

I think my butternut squash may have blossom end rot, one or 2 of the flowers have rotted and fallen off although there are still some good flowers, do I cut off the ones I notice to be affected by it or should I just let them fall on their own?

Based purely on your

Based purely on your description, this does not sound like blossom end rot—which affects the lower ends of the squash (on the blossom end side) not the flower itself. It is possible that you have pollination issues? You can always self-pollinate between the male and female flowers to ensure pollination happens. See this page for more detail.

Ive heard that yellow

Ive heard that yellow zucchinis grow better/easier than green varieties. Is that true? Do yellow zucchinis even exist?

All are summer squash. The

All are summer squash. The yellow squash that looks similar to the green zucchini is called straightneck squash. They're both quick-growing. I think my yellow summer squash variety was 50 to 60 days to maturity and the zucchini was 50 to 60 days, but it completely depends on your seed variety so just check the back of the seed packet or look at the seed retailers online to get a sense of the "days to maturity."

My yellow squash were

My yellow squash were producing normal, smooth skin. Now their skin is very bumpy. What causes this?

What type of squash do you

What type of squash do you have? Some varieties, such as Yellow Crookneck Squash, are supposed to get bumpy.

I have 2 zucchini plants and

I have 2 zucchini plants and both have female flowers bloom before male flowers. Can I use delicata squash's male flower to pollinate zucchini flowers?

You can self-polinate squash

You can self-polinate squash with a Q-tip or by simply stripping the male flower and bringing the pollen-covered stamen over to the female. However, you should use the same species if you want the same edible.

You can certainly try it. The

You can certainly try it. The fruit might not be exactly the same, and the seeds will certainly not be true, but I'd recommend giving it a go.

Is it advisable to cut the

Is it advisable to cut the leaves off for the sguash to get mor sun

No, not if you're growing the

No, not if you're growing the plants for squash. The leaves are the part of the plant that captures the sun for growth. They also protect the fruit from sun scald.