Growing Strawberries

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Strawberries

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If you plan to enter the world of growing fruit, strawberries are one of the easiest fruit to grow and great for beginners. Plus, homegrown strawberries are far more flavorful than what you’ll ever find in a grocery store. Why? The sugar in berries converts to starch soon after they’re picked. Learn more about growing strawberries in the home garden.

About Strawberries

The best thing about strawberries is that they’re relatively easy to grow and maintain as long as you keep them in a location that gets full sun.

Strawberry plants come in three types:

June-bearing varieties bear fruit all at once, usually over a period of three weeks. Day-length sensitive, these varieties produce buds in the autumn, flowers, and fruits the following June, and runners during the long days of summer. Although called “June-bearing” or “June-bearers,” these strawberries bear earlier than June in warmer climates.
Everbearing varieties produce a big crop in spring, produce lightly in the summer, and then bear another crop in late summer/fall. These varieties form buds during the long days of summer and the short days of autumn. The summer-formed buds flower and fruit in autumn, and the autumn-formed buds fruit the following spring.
Day-Neutral varieties produce fruit continuously through the season, until the first frost: Insensitive to day length, these varieties produce buds, fruits, and runners continuously if temperature remains between 35° and 85°F (1° to 30°C). Production is less than that of June-bearers.

For the home garden, we recommend June-bearers. Although you will have to wait a year for fruit harvesting, it will be well worth it.

Planting

When to Plant Strawberries

Plan to plant as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. See your local frost dates.
Establish new plants each year to keep berry quality high each season. Strawberry plants will produce runners (daughter plants) that will root and grow into new strawberry plants.
Buy disease-resistant plants from a reputable nursery, of a variety recommended in your area. Consult with the nursery you buy them from or with your state Cooperative Extension service for locally recommended varieties.

Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site

Strawberry plants require 6-10 hours a day of direct sunlight, so choose your planting site accordingly.
Strawberries are tolerant of different soil types, although they prefer loamy soil that drains well. Ideally, begin working in aged manure or compost a couple months before planting. If you have clay soil, generally mix in 4 inches or more of compost, and rake the clay soil into raised mounds to further improve drainage. If your soil is sandy, simply cultivate lightly to remove weeds, and mix in a 1-inch layer of rich compost or rotted manure.
Soil pH should be between 5.5 and 7. If necessary, amend your soil in advance of planting. If soils in your area are naturally alkaline, it is best to grow strawberries in half-barrels or other large containers filled with compost-enriched potting soil.
The planting site must be well-drained. Raised beds are a particularly good option for strawberry plants.
Practice crop rotation for the most success. Unless you plan to amend your soil each year, do not plant in a site that recently had strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant.

How to Plant Strawberries

Provide adequate space for sprawling. Set plants out 18 inches (1-½ feet) apart to leave room for runners and leave 4 feet between rows. Strawberries are sprawling plants. Seedlings will send out runners, which in turn will send out their own runners.
Make planting holes deep and wide enough to accommodate the entire root system without bending it. However, don’t plant too deep! The roots should be covered, but the crown should be right at the soil surface. It is very important that you do NOT bury the crown (central growing bud) of the plant or it could rot. The leaves, flowers, and fruit must be exposed to light and fresh air.
To settle their roots into the soil, water plants well at the time of planting.
It is also possible to grow strawberries from last year’s runners. See this video to find out how.

Check out this video to learn more about how to plant and grow strawberries:

Care

How to Grow Strawberries

Keep strawberry beds mulched to reduce water needs and weed invasion. Any type of mulch—from black plastic to pine straw to shredded leaves—will keep the soil moist and the plants clean. Read more about mulching.
Be diligent about weeding. Weed by hand, especially in the first months after planting.
Moisture is incredibly important to strawberries due to their shallow roots. Water adequately, about one inch per square foot per week. Strawberry plants need a lot of water when the runners and flowers are developing and again in the late summer, when the plants are fully mature and gearing up for winter dormancy.
Fertilize with all-purpose granules for strong growth. In warm weather, berries ripen about 30 days after blossoms are fertilized.
In the first year, pick off blossoms to discourage strawberry plants from fruiting. If not allowed to bear fruit, they will spend their food reserves on developing healthy roots instead, which is a good thing. The yields will be much greater in the second year.
Eliminate runner plants as needed. First and second generations produce higher yields. Try to keep daughter plants spaced about 10 inches apart.
Row covers are a good option for protecting blossoms and fruit from birds.

Strawberries. Photo by Yuriy S./Getty Images — *Photo by Yuriy S./Getty Images*

Winter Care of Strawberries

Strawberry plants are perennial. They are naturally cold hardy and will survive mildly freezing temperatures. So, if your area has mild winters, little care is needed.

In regions where the temperature regularly drops into the low twenties (Fahrenheit), strawberries will be in their dormant stage. It’s best to provide some winter protection:

When the growing season is over, mow or cut foliage down to one inch. This can be done after the first couple of frosts, or when air temps reach 20°F (-6°C).
Mulch plants about 4 inches deep with straw, pine needles, or other organic material.
In even colder regions, more insulating mulch should be added.
Natural precipitation should appropriately maintain sufficient soil moisture.
Remove mulch in early spring, after the danger of frost has passed.

Pests/Diseases

Gray Mold
Powdery Mildew
Japanese Beetles
Spider Mites
Slugs

Pest-Beating Tips

Keeping beds weed-free and using a gritty mulch can deter slugs and bugs. Spread sand over the strawberry bed to deter slugs. (This also works well for lettuce.) Pine needles also foil slug and pill-bug damage.
For bigger bugs such as Japanese beetles, spray your plants with puréed garlic and neem seed oil.
When birds threaten your strawberries, position balloons with scare-eyes above the beds and use reflective Mylar bird tape to deter them.

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Strawberries

Fruit is typically ready for harvesting 4-6 weeks after blossoming.
Harvest only fully red (ripe) berries, and pick every three days.
Cut by the stem; do not pull the berry or you could damage the plant.
For June-bearer strawberries, the harvest will last up to 3 weeks. You should have an abundance of berries, depending on the variety.

How to Store Strawberries

Store unwashed berries in the refrigerator for 3–5 days.
Strawberries can be frozen whole for about 2 months.
Watch our video on How to Make Strawberry Preserves!

Strawberry Bed. Photo by Ben Shuchunke/Getty Images
Photo by Ben Shuchunke/Getty Images

Recommended Varieties

Try planting more than one variety. Each will respond differently to conditions, and you will have a range of different fruits to enjoy.

‘Northeaster’ is best suited for the northeastern US and southeastern Canada. Fruit has strong flavor and aroma.
‘Sable’ is hardy to zone 3, early season, great flavor.
‘Primetime’ is a mild-flavored, disease-resistant variety, best adapted to the Mid-Atlantic.
‘Cardinal’ is a good variety to try in the South.
‘Camarosa’ is a good variety to try on the West Coast.
‘Tristar’ is a day-neutral variety that’s very well-suited for hanging baskets.

Learn more about choosing and growing different strawberry varieties.

Wit & Wisdom

Why Are Strawberries Called Strawberries?

One theory is that woodland pickers strung them on pieces of straw to carry them to market. Others believe that the surface of the fruit looks as if it’s embedded with bits of straw. Still others think that the name comes from the Old English word meaning “to strew,” because the plant’s runners stray in all directions and look as if they are strewn on the ground.

The June full Moon is called the Strawberry Moon because when this Moon appeared, it signaled that it was time to start gathering ripening fruit.

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Reader Comments

Varieties grown in northeast

Varieties grown in northeast Kansas may not produce as well in other areas of the state. Of course, the first rule is to purchase "virus free" stock from a reputable nursery that's local so the plants don't get dried out. June-bearing varieties are usually the most productive varieties in home gardens and they are perennials. You could plant more than two varieties - an early, a mid, and a late season variety - to insure ripe fruits over a longer harvest period. According to your cooperative extension, recommended varieties for Kansas are: Allstar, Earliglow, Guardian, Northeaster, Ogallala, Ozark Beauty, Primetime, Redchief, Tribute, Tristar. We'd suggest you speak to a local nursery about the best varieties for your area.

TELL ME IF AND HOW MY

TELL ME IF AND HOW MY STRAWBERRIES WILL GROW

Doesn't sound like your

Doesn't sound like your strawberries are going to grow based on your previous comments. Stick to houseplants or herbs if you don't have full sunlight.

Kim- I've come across your

Kim-
I've come across your post by chance today. I live on Fort Leavenworth, KS ...so not far from you at all. I have had significant luck with my patches..I started with 2 plants 3+ yrs ago in 3ft×3ft plot on the side of my house(facing afternoon sun). Due to it being military housing I opted to raise it and use gardening soil (not knowing the history of the home ..honestly, not knowing if /when/how many dogs utilized the "soil") . I occassonally use a plant feed but other than that they have spread like crazy- about 10ft x 10ft now and produce like clock work. Maybe I got lucky, I have heard a lot of negatives with KS and strawberries but thought I'd share my thoughts since I'm so close. So...good luck!!

am i Uganda and plans to

am i Uganda and plans to start growing berries and here we have only wet and hot weather which type is good for us we have full sun whole year

what temp is best for

what temp is best for strawberries

Plant strawberries in late

Plant strawberries in late spring. They're fine as long as the temperature does not go above 61°F or this will inhibit flowering.

I live in Connecticut. This

I live in Connecticut. This is my first garden. I got a small baby plant from lowes and am pot growing my strawberries due to messy issues in the backyard.
My strawberry plant itself is all nice and green. But this spring is a hot one. And a humid one. I'm getting my first flower. And as of the looks this morning five more are coming. They are beautiful but I've read to eliminate the flowers causes them to focus production on strawberries and roots. And now you've mentioned temperatures higher temperatures cause flowering as well.
Do you recommend eliminating the flowers or let the them? Will the humidity affect growth?

Mind my mistakes I'm on my

Mind my mistakes
I'm on my phone

Or let the flowers grow *

If you plan on keeping your

If you plan on keeping your strawberry plants overwinter, we'd recommend removing the first year's flowers so that the new plant can focus on growing roots and establishing itself. If, however, you do not plan on keeping the plant past this growing season, keep the flowers so that you will have fruit later in the season. If you plan to overwinter them, but would like a harvest this year, you could try allowing just a few flowers to form and develop fruit, while removing the rest.

Some humidity is good for the plants; too much, and too much heat, will encourage disease and cultural problems.

I bought some strawberry

I bought some strawberry seeds online and that are supposed to grow a blue variety of strawberry. My friend is convinced it's photoshopped but I want to give it my best and try to grow them. Most of the info here is about cultivating plants. What's the best time and way to start seeds in zone 9? I'm in Deep South Texas. Is anyone familiar with this variety? Can I repurpose something into a planter and grow them on my porch or is it best I break out the tool belt and make a raised bed? I am quite willing to! I want to give it my best go and see if something really neat comes of these seeds.

The blue strawberries have

The blue strawberries have been a hoax for some time. People have tried to grow the seeds but the plants that germinate are often not even strawberries. You can try to grow them or get some new seeds from a reputable mail-order company. Plant the seeds in a container or seed tray with soilless potting mix. Keep the soil moist until the seeds germinate. When the seedlings are big enough you can plant them in bigger containers or in the garden. The plants may not fruit the first year.

Hello, I live in zone 9 and

Hello, I live in zone 9 and have a raised bed of about 30 strawberrys that were planted last fall, so far the plants have only doubled in sizeand I am Concerned that when I bought the plants they came two per container (loran variety) and I pinched back the weakest looking plant. Now it looks as if those pinched plants have grown and look like they are competing. However I am dont have enough ecperience to tell if these plants are shoots of the main plant or just the competing plant. I am afriad to cut them back because I dont want to slow down any plant growth. Also my bed are only about 5 inches deep over a layer of cardboard over dead grass. Is it possible to dig up each plant and seperate any competing plants and add several inches of soil without completly devestating the plants?

I planted quite a few

I planted quite a few strawberries about 3 years ago in a 4'x 6' raised bed. They have gone crazy and are sooo thick it is hard to weed. I live in zone 3a and have never done anything to them at the end of each season. What is the best advice for this overgrown raised bed? Strawberry production is decent, but the fruit is small. It is February, should I cut them back?

I planted my strawberries

I planted my strawberries last spring theu didnt produce much but when I bought them they had green berries growing. I covered them up with old leaves last fall, the plants still green under there, when should I expect them to start growing berries again, also they didnt produce but 6 or 7 berries last year, should I expect more this time around?

Your plants should be doing

Your plants should be doing well this year and you should be getting more berries. Remove the leaves when temperatures have warmed up. Depending on the variety you have blossoms should appear in late May early June.

Do strawberry plants need to

Do strawberry plants need to go through a cold winter/period of dormancy to be able to bear fruit? Where I live temperatures only fluctuate by a few degrees throughout the year, usually between 22 and 33 C, so my outdoor environment would not be able to provide that chilling time. I have read about putting runners in the freezer for a couple of weeks to mimic winter. Could that work? Also, with days of 11 to 12 hours throughout the year, how would ever bearing and day neutral varieties behave? Would they just keep on going?

You need to grow varieties

You need to grow varieties that are heat tolerant and you will have best luck growing strawberries as annuals and not perennials. Please see the pdf below for advice and suggested varieties.
http://polkhort.ifas.ufl.edu/d...

Hi, am from India and i

Hi, am from India and i planted 4 strawberry plants around september and they produced runners and i kept the healthiest and trimmed the weaker ones and now in december 2014 they are producing flower buds and cold season have started well now here at India.Isit normal that my plants are flowering in winter.Plants are healthy and lush green.I planted 4 plants in september 2014 and now at december 15th 2014 i have a total of 14 plants doing well.Sometimes littge bugs pinkish in colour are seen at back sides of leaves can some body tell a home made cure forthem.

Can you actually grow

Can you actually grow strawberries at home? Pls do reply...

What is the typical length of

What is the typical length of the flowering period for strawberries? Does it vary significantly between cultivars? From what I've learned here, ever-bearing types would be constantly be producing flowers, so may not have a set 'flowering period' but typically how long would each flower be open for?

Bloom time varies depending

Bloom time varies depending on the weather conditions, how much daylight you have, and the variety of strawberries you are growing. Strawberries are in general ready for harvest 30 days after the flowers open.

Hi I live in Michigan and I

Hi I live in Michigan and I bought a everlasting strawberry patio pot in the beginning of june that already had strawberries on it. The plants got too big for the small pot, so I transferred them intro a large pot. They did very well all summer. I am wondering if I need to cut the plants down now that it is November and put them in my garage with a blanket? How short do I need to cut them? I just started to get runners, do I cut them too? Do I cut leaves and all?

Hi Jillian, Cut off any dead

Hi Jillian,
Cut off any dead leaves and cut the runners before storing the container in the garage. Cover with a blanket or a towel and water the container about once a month during the winter so that the roots don't dry up.

Hello, I just constructed a

Hello, I just constructed a raised bed with about 6 inches of soil, it is the end of october and I plan on filling rows with strawberries. Is it to late in the season to start and be ready for next season? Also my soil consist of 50% compost and 50% peat moss along with a little cow manure and shapgnum moss, is this soil good enough for sustaining the plants?

Hi Eric, We're not sure where

Hi Eric, We're not sure where you live but strawberries are usually planted in the late spring. For a raised bed, we'd suggest 8 inches high. Mix organic matter (manure is a good source--or, compost, leaves, peat moss, etc.) sand, and fertilizer (1 pound of 10-10-20 per 100 sq. feet). If you're using manure to improve soil structure, decrease the fertilizer by half.

Thanks for the advice. This

Thanks for the advice. This should help as we are coming in to spring here in Mississippi. I have some seeds and some roots. I'm going to try to plant some vertical and some in the rased bed.

how much nitrogen,

how much nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium does strawberries require per acre?

Hi Vane,It depends on a soil

Hi Vane,It depends on a soil test but the standard recommendation is: Apply 60 pounds nitrogen (N) per acre, 60 pounds phosphate (P2O5) per acre and 120 pounds potassium (K2O) per acre. Broadcast these fertilizers and lightly incorporate before bedding and fumigation.

what time is the growing

what time is the growing season