Growing Tomatoes


Growing Tomatoes from Planting to Harvest

Tomatoes on Vine
Helios4Eos/Getty Images

Tomatoes are not hard to grow; they’re incredibly productive, versatile in the kitchen, and so delicious off the vine. Our guide covers all the information you need to grow tomatoes successfully—including selecting tomato varieties, starting seeds, transplanting tomatoes outside, using tomato stakes and cages, and tomato plant care.

Tomatoes are long-growing, heat-seeking, sun lovers! These warm-season plants do not tolerate frost. In most regions, the soil is not warm enough to plant tomatoes outdoors until April or May, but it depends on where you live. See your frost dates.

How Long Does It Take to Grow a Tomato?

This is one of our most common questions. The exact “days to harvest” depends on the cultivar and it can range from 60 days to more than 100 days. See your tomato planting dates based on your zip code or postal code.

Due to their relatively long growing season requirements, tomatoes are most commonly transplanted into the garden as young plants rather than started from seeds outdoors (though you can certainly start them indoors). Transplants can be purchased in garden nurseries. Look for short, stocky plants with dark green color and straight, sturdy stems about the size of a pencil or thicker. Avoid plants with yellowing leaves, spots, or stress damage; avoid plants with flowers or fruits already in progress.

Types of Tomatoes

Tomatoes are available in a wide variety of sizes, from tiny grape-sized types to giant beefsteaks. The choice also depends on how you will use this versatile fruit in the kitchen. For example, Roma tomatoes are not very good eaten fresh, but are perfect for sauces and ketchups. Tomato cultivars can be classified according to their growth habit:

  • Determinate tomatoes are plants that grow to a pre-determined height. Once they reach this height, they focus all of their energy on producing flowers and fruit. They are good choices for canning and sauce-making. Beefsteak tomato varieties tend to be determinate.
  • Indeterminate tomatoes increase in height throughout the growing season because the terminal end of the stem continues to produce foliar growth rather than set flowers. The fruits on these plants are produced continually through the season along the side shoots of the plant. Indeterminate tomatoes are the choice if you want to spread out the harvest over a longer period of time. Cherry tomato varieties tend to be indeterminate.

Tomatoes do need vigilant care, as the crop is susceptible to pests and diseases. To avoid problems, choose disease-resistant cultivars whenever possible. Also note that tomato plants will be more susceptible to soil-borne disease and rot if not kept off the ground with a stake or other support system. We’ll cover all these essentials below.

Check out this video to learn more about how to choose tomoatoes. 

Planting Dates for TOMATOES

Enter a Location

Planting Calendar for all Plants


Site Selection

Select a site with full sun. For northern regions, it is VERY important that your site receives at least 6 hours of daily sunlight. For southern regions, light afternoon shade will keep tomatoes protected from the harsh midday sun and help them thrive.

Tomatoes will grow in many different soil types, but it needs to drain well and never pool water. They prefer a slightly acid soil with a pH of 6.2 to 6.8.

When to Plant Tomatoes

  • Many gardeners start tomatoes from small plants or transplants that you purchase in the nursery as they are not the easiest for beginners to start by seed.
  • However, if you grow tomatos from seed, start indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. See our Planting Calendar for seed-starting dates specific to your area and our article on “Tomatoes From Seed the Easy Way” for more tips.
  • Transplant seedlings after the last spring frost when the soil has warmed. See our Planting Calendar for suggested transplanting dates.

Tomato seedlings

Before Transplanting

  • Two weeks before planting your tomato plants outdoors, dig into soil about 1 foot deep and mix in aged manure or compost. Learn more about preparing soil for planting.
  • Harden off seedlings or transplants for a week before planting in the garden. Set young plants outdoors in the shade for a couple of hours the first day, gradually increasing the amount of time the plants are outside each day to include some direct sunlight. Learn more about hardening off seedlings.
  • Place tomato stakes or cages in the soil at the time of planting to avoid damaging roots later on. Staking keeps developing tomato fruit off the ground, while caging lets the plant hold itself upright. For stakes, use a sturdy pole at least 8 feet tall and 1 inch in diameter. Set the pole 1 to 2 feet deep and about 4 inches out from the plant. See our video and instructions on how to build stakes, cages, and tomato supports.

Planting the Transplants

  • Apply 2 to 3 pounds of a complete fertilizer (such as 5-10-5, 10-10-10, or 6-10-4) per 100 square feet of garden area. For smaller gardening areas or containers, follow instructions on fertilizer packaging. Do not apply high nitrogen fertilizers such as those recommended for lawns, as this will promote luxurious foliage but can delay flowering and fruiting. 
  • Space tomato transplants 2 feet apart for small determinate plants or larger indeterminate plants that will be staked. Space larger plants 3 to 4 feet apart if unstaked. Allow 4 feet between the rows. 
  • Before planting, pinch off a few of the lower branches and plant the root ball deep enough so that the remaining lowest leaves are just above the surface of the soil. Tomato plants have the ability to grow roots from their buried stem, which will help to stabilize them when they’re larger. This is also a good way to remedy plants that have gotten too leggy.
  • Be sure to water the transplants thoroughly to establish good root/soil contact and prevent wilting.
  • Even after hardening off, newly planted transplants may need to be shaded for the first week or so to prevent excessive drying of the leaves. 

Spacing for Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes in Containers

  • Use a large pot or container with drainage holes in the bottom. Containers should be at least 12 inches deep, but bigger is better.
  • A tray of some sort should be placed under the pot to catch any excess water that drains out the bottom.
  • Use loose, well-draining soil. We recommend a good potting mix with added organic matter.
  • Plant one tomato plant per pot. Choose from bush or dwarf varieties; many cherry tomatoes grow well in pots. 
  • Taller varieties may need to be staked.
  • Place the pot in a sunny spot with 6 to 8 hours of full sun a day.
  • Keep soil moist. Containers will dry out more quickly than garden soil, so check daily and provide extra water during a heat wave.


Tomato Plant Care


  • Water generously the first few days that the tomato seedlings or transplants are in the ground.
  • Water well throughout the growing season, about 2 inches (about 1.2 gallons) per square foot per week during the summer. Water deeply to encourage a strong root system.
  • Water in the early morning. This gives the plant the moisture it needs to make it through a hot summer day. Avoid watering in the evening, as this can encourage disease. 
  • Mulch around the plant a few weeks after transplanting to retain moisture and to control weeds. Mulch also keeps soil from splashing the lower tomato leaves. Apply 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, hay, or bark chips after the soil has had a chance to warm up.
  • To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks prevent water from evaporating from the soil.


  • Watering newly planted tomatoes with a diluted starter fertilizer solution will help get the roots off to a good start.
  • Side dress plants with fertilizer or compost every two weeks starting when the tomato fruits are about 1 inch in diameter.
  • A sidedressing of nitrogen fertilizer will help see the plants through the growing season. Apply 1 pound of ammonium nitrate (33-0-0) per 100 foot row at each of the following times: 
    • 1 to 2 weeks after first fruits are set
    • 2 weeks after picking first ripe fruit, and
    • 6 weeks after picking first ripe fruit. 
  • If staking, use soft string or old nylon stocking to secure the tomato stem to the stake. It’s essential to remove the suckers (side stems) by pinching them off just beyond the first two leaves.
  • If supporting tomatoes with a wire cage, suckers do not need to be removed. (This allows the plant to be more productive.) 
  • Practice crop rotation from year to year to prevent diseases that may have overwintered.
  • Check out this post for even more tomato tips.


  • Where no mulch is used, cultivate shallowly to remove weeds while they are still small. Herbicides can be used in large tomato plantings but are not practical in the small garden with only a few plants of many different crops. 

Tomatoes. Photo by ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images
Photo by ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images


Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests, especially tomato hornworms and whiteflies. Click on links below to go to respective pest pages.

  • Aphids
  • Flea Beetles
  • Tomato Hornworm
  • Whiteflies
  • Blossom-End Rot
  • Late Blight is a fungal disease that can strike during any part of the growing season. It will cause grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. This disease will overwinter, so all infected plants should be destroyed. See our blog on “Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato.”
  • Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don’t put them in your compost pile).
  • Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs due to uneven watering or uneven moisture from weather conditions (very rainy periods mixed with dry periods). Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.

See our gardening page focused specifically on Tomato Pests and Diseases.

Watch our helpful video to see tomato problems and how to troubleshoot!


How to Harvest Tomatoes

  • Leave your tomatoes on the vine as long as possible. If any fall off before they appear ripe, place them in a paper bag with the stem up and store them in a cool, dark place.
    • Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
  • The perfect tomato for picking will be firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. If you grow orange, yellow or any other color tomato, wait for the tomato to turn the correct color.
  • If your tomato plant still has fruit when the first hard frost threatens, pull up the entire plant and hang it upside down in the basement or garage. Pick tomatoes as they ripen.
  • If temperatures start to drop and your tomatoes aren’t ripening, watch this video for tips.
  • You can harvest seeds from some tomato varieties. Learn how here.

How to Store Tomatoes

  • Never refrigerate fresh tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that give it that garden tomato taste.
  • To freeze, core fresh unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they defrost.

See more on properly storing tomatoes and other vegetables.

Recommended Varieties

Wit & Wisdom

  • In 1781, there is record of Thomas Jefferson—an experimental farmer—raising tomatoes for his guests.
  • The tomato plant is native to South America, but it was not commonly cultivated in the United States until 1835. In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Many people believed that the fruits were poisonous, which isn’t too far of a leap: Tomatoes are in the same family (Solanaceae) as deadly nightshade (Atropa belladonna). Potatoes and eggplants are also part of this family.
  • In the 19th century, the tomato was called “The Apple of Paradise” in Germany and “The Apple of Love” in France.
  • Tomatoes are nutritious and low in calories. One medium-sized tomato provides 57% of the recommended daily allotment (RDA) of vitamin C, 25% RDA vitamin A, and 8% RDA iron, yet it has only 35 calories.
  • Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.
  • People have argued for quite a long time about whether tomatoes are fruits or vegetables!


Cooking Notes

Capture the garden-fresh taste of tomatoes all year long! See this helpful post on how to can tomatoes.

Many people also love dried tomatoes, so learn how to dry your own tomatoes here.

See our Best Tomato Recipes Ever!


Growing Tomatoes

Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum
Plant Type Vegetable
Sun Exposure Full Sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Acidic, Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11
Special Features