Growing Tomatoes

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Growing Tomatoes from Planting to Harvest

By The Editors
Tomatoes on Vine
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Our Growing Tomatoes Guide takes you from planting to harvesting! Find out when to plant America’s favorite garden crop, the best way to grow tomatoes, how long it takes a tomato to bear fruit, and what tomatoes need to thrive. We’ll touch on how to transplant, stakes and cages, the best tomato varieties, and more tomato tips!

There’s a reason why tomatoes are the #1 home garden vegetable. The taste of a tomato right off the vine is incomparable to a typical grocery store type.

Tomatoes are warm-weather vegetables and sun worshippers!

  • In northern regions, tomato plants will need at least 6 hours of sunlight daily; 8 to 10 hours are preferred.
  • In southern regions, light afternoon shade (natural or applied, e.g., row covers) will help tomatoes to survive and thrive.

How Long Does It Take to Grow a Tomato?

This is one of our most common questions. The exact “days to harvest” depends on the cultivar and it can range from 60 days to more than 100 days.

In addition, tomatoes can not be started too early in the ground as they are a tender warm-season crop that can not bear frost. In most regions, the soil is not warm enough to plant tomatoes outdoors until late spring and early summer except in zone 10, where they are a fall and winter crop. See when to start tomatoes for your location.

Due to their relatively long growing season requirements (and late planting date), plant small “starter plants” or transplants instead of seeds. Choose young tomato plants from a reputable nursery. Good starter plants are short and stocky with dark green color and straight, sturdy stems about the size of a pencil or thicker. They should not have yellowing leaves, spots, or stress damage nor have flowers or fruits already in progress.

Types of Tomatoes

  • Determinate tomatoes, better known as “bush” varieties grow 2 to 3 feet tall. These varieties tend to provide numerous ripe tomatoes at one time, do not put on much leaf growth after setting fruit, and tend to fruit for a (relatively) brief period of time. They are generally productive earlier than the vining varieties, and not in the latter part of the growing season. Determinate tomatoes do not require staking or caging. These plants are idea for containers and small spaces. Most paste tomatoes are determine (which works well for making sauce and canning).
     
  • Indeterminate tomatoes, better known as “vining” varieties produce the largest types of mid- to late-season slicing tomatoes all summer and until the first frost. Because indeterminates experience more leaf growth, their production tends to be spread more evenly throughout the season. Indeterminate tomatoes need staking. They are ideal in large gardeners. Most beefsteak and cherry tomatoes are indeterminate.

Tomatoes come in a wide range of flavors as well as colors and sizes, from tiny grape-sized types to giant beefsteaks. The choice also depends on how you will use this versatile fruit in the kitchen. For example, Roma tomatoes are not usually eaten fresh out of hand, but are perfect for sauces and ketchups. Tomatoes do need vigilant care, as the crop is susceptible to pests and diseases. To avoid problems, choose disease-resistant cultivars whenever possible. 

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Image: Tomatoes aren’t only red! Featured here is the flavorful heirloom ‘Green Zebra,’ a high-yielding indeterminate plant. Credit: VZaitsev/GettyImages

Check out this video to learn more about how to choose tomatoes.

Planting Dates for TOMATOES

Enter a Location

Planting Calendar for all Plants

Planting

Select a site with full sun and, ideally, a space where tomatoes (and members of their family, especially eggplants, peppers, and potatoes) have not grown in the previous couple of years. See tips on crop rotation.

Dig soil to about 1 foot deep and mix in aged manure and/or compost. Give it two weeks to break down before planting.

Start Tomatoes From Seed

  • As stated above, due to the long growing season for a warm-weather crop, many gardeners purchase starter tomato plants from a nursery.
  • However, tomatoes can be direct-sown in the garden if the soil is at least 55°F. Note that 70°F soil is optimum for maximum germination within 5 days. Be certain that your grown season is long enough to bring the plants to maturity. See your first fall frost date.
  • Or, you can plant tomatoes by seed indoors for a head start. Sow seeds a ½ inch deep in small trays 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. See our Planting Calendar for seed-starting dates specific to your area and our article on “Tomatoes From Seed the Easy Way” for more tips.
  • Harden off your own seedlings for a week before transplanting them in the ground. Set them outdoors in the shade for a few hours on the first day. Gradually increase this time each day to include some direct sunlight. Learn more about hardening off seedlings.

Tomato seedlings

Planting the Transplants

  • Transplant your seedlings or nursery-grown plants after all danger of frost has passed and the soil is at least 60°F. See our Planting Calendar for suggested transplanting dates.
  • Place tomato stakes or cages in the soil at planting. Staking and caging keep developing fruit off the ground (to avoid disease and pests) and also help the plant to stay upright. See instructions on how to build stakes, cages, and tomato supports.
  • When you transplant tomatoes, add a handful of organic tomato fertilizer or bone meal (a good source of phosphorus) to the planting hole.
  • Do NOT apply high nitrogen fertilizers such as those recommended for lawns, as this will promote luxurious foliage but can delay flowering and fruiting. 
  • When planting seedlings, pinch off a few of the lower leaves. Here are two ways to set seedlings in the soil:
    1. Place each root ball deep enough such that the bottom leaves are just above the surface of the soil. Roots will grow all along the plant’s stem underground. Plant seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart. Crowded plants will not get sufficient sun and the fruit may not ripen.
    2. Alternatively, lay long, leggy transplants on their sides in trenches 3 to 4 inches deep. Bury the stems up to the first set of true leaves. Roots will develop along the buried stem. If you plant this way, consider setting four tomato plants in compass-point positions (north, south, east, west). This formation enables you to fertilize and water the plants in the middle.
  • Remember to allow enough space for the plants to spread out.
  • Water well to reduce shock to the roots.

Spacing for Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes in Containers

  • Use a large pot or container (at least 20 inches in diameter) with drainage holes in the bottom. 
  • Use loose, well-draining soil (e.g., at least 12 inches of a good “potting mix” with added organic material).
  • A tray of some sort should be placed under the pot to catch any excess water that drains out the bottom.
  • Choose bush or dwarf varieties; many cherry tomatoes grow well in pots. Taller varieties may need to be staked.
  • Plant one tomato plant per pot and give each at least 6 hours of sun per day.
  • Keep soil moist. Containers will dry out more quickly than garden soil, so check daily and provide extra water during heat waves.

Care

Tomato Plant Care

Watering

  • Water in the early morning so that plants have sufficient moisture to make it through a hot day.
  • Water generously the first few days that the tomato seedlings or transplants are in the ground.
  • Then water with about 2 inches (about 1.2 gallons) per square foot per week during the growing season. Deep watering encourages a strong root system.
  • Avoid overhead watering and afternoon watering. Water at the base/soil level of a plant to avoid splashing water on the leaves (which invites disease).
  • Mulch 5 weeks after transplanting to retain moisture, keep soil from splashing the lower leaves, and control weeds. Apply 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, hay, or bark chips.
  • To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks prevent water from evaporating from the soil.

Fertilizing

  • You should have already worked compost into the soil before planting, and added some bonemeal to the planting hole when transplanting.
  • Side-dress plants, applying liquid seaweed or fish emulsion or an organic fertilizer every 2 weeks, starting when tomatoes are about 1 inch in diameter (some folks say “golf ball-size”). If you are using an organic granular formula such as Epson Tomato-Tone (4-7-10 or 3-4-6), pull mulch back a few inches and scratch 2 to 3 tablespoons fertilizer around the drip line of the plant. Water in, and replace mulch.
  • Continue fertilizing tomatoes about every 3 to 4 weeks until frost.
  • Note: Avoid fast-release fertilizers and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. As stated, too much nitrogen will result in lush foliage but few flowers and little or no fruit.

Pruning, pinching, staking

  • If growing vining tomatoes, pinch off suckers (new, tiny stems and leaves between branches and the main stem). This aids air circulation and allows more sunlight into the middle of the plant.
  • Gently tie the stems to stakes with rags, nylon stockings, twine, or soft string.
  • As a plant grows, trim the lower leaves from the bottom 12 inches of the stem.

No flowers, no fruit?

  • If no flowers form, plants may not be getting enough sun or water (too little can stop flowering).
  • Flower drop-off could be due to high daytime temperatures (over 90°F). Provide shade during the hottest part of the day by using row covers or shade cloth.
  • If plants produce a lot of flowers but no fruit, the cause might be inadequate light, too little water or inconsistent watering, too cold or hot temperatures (above 75°F at night/90°F during the day), or not enough pollinators (bees).
  • Low humidity can also affect pollination; the ideal is 40 to 70 percent. If humidity is low, mist the plant to help pollen to stick.

Check out this post for even more tomato tips.

Tomatoes. Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images
Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images

Pests/Diseases

Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests. To avoid overpopulation of insect pests, follow these basic tips:

  1. Monitor tomato plants daily, checking under leaves, checking fruit, and checking near the soil.
  2. To dislodge many pests like aphids, spray plants with with a good jet stream from the hose.
  3. Handpick insects bigger insects like tomato hornworm with gloves on, dropping into a bucket of soapy water.
  4. Apply insecticidal soap directly to the insect on the plant; this works for smaller pests such as aphids and spider mites.
  5. Apply horticultural oils or sprays diluted in water. Neem oil sprays block an insect’s air holes.
  6. If you choose as a last resort to use insecticides like Sevin, keep in mind that you may be killing beneficial insects as well.

Tomato Pests

  • Tomato cutworm (early in the season). Indicated by a chewed stem
  • Aphids will cause yellow curling leaves and white sticky residue
  • Flea Beetles cause holes in leaves
  • Tomato Hornworm and tobacco hornworm cause defoliation
  • Whiteflies indicated by sticky white residue.
  • Leaf miners are indicated by tunnel or zigzag patterns on leaves
  • Corn earworms (aka tomato fruitworms), stink bugs, and slugs cause holes in fruit

When it comes to tomato diseases and other problems, most of the work is in prevention. Here are some tips to avoid tomato diseases:

  1. Plant disease-resistant tomato varieties. Tomato disease-resistant codes are listed on seed or seedling packets (example: F = Fusarium Wilt).
  2. Rotate crops at least every three years in the same spot. Avoid planting Solanaceous family members as well (potato, pepper, and eggplant).
  3. Ensure well-draining soil. Always mix in compost or organic matter.
  4. Water consistently! Do not overwater if you forget nor underwater.
  5. Destroy infected plants. Unfortunately, you often need to remove and discard infected plants or the disease will overwinter. Do NOT put in a compost pile. 
  6. Solarize the soil. If the problem is really bad, you can treat your soil by covering it with plastic during the hottest part of the summer for 6 to 8 weeks; the sun will destroy the bacteria.

Tomato Diseases and Problems

  • Blossom-End Rot causes the bottom side of the tomato to develop dark, sunken spots, due to a calcium imbalance. See the link for remedies and prevention.
  • Early Blight is a fungal disease that causes leaves to drop; it’s common after rainfall or in humidity. It starts with dark, concentric spots (brown to black), about ½-inch in diameter on the lower leaves and stems. If you catch it early and destroy infected leaves, you plant may survive.
  • Late Blight is a fungal disease that causes grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. See our blog on “Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato.”
  • Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don’t put them in your compost pile).
  • Fusarium Wilt starts with yellowing and wilting on one side of the plant and moves up the plant as the fungus spreads. Unfortunately, once this disease strikes, the plant needs to be destroyed.
  • Powdery Mildew is a fungal disease which leaves white spots or a dusting of white on the leaves. It can be managed. See the link to learn more.
  • Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs due to uneven watering or uneven moisture from weather conditions (very rainy periods mixed with dry periods). Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.

See our article all about Tomato Diseases and Disorders.

Watch our helpful video to see tomato problems and how to troubleshoot!

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Tomatoes

  • Leave tomatoes on the vine as long as possible.
  • Harvest tomatoes when they are firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. Harvest tomatoes of other colors (orange, yellow, purple, or another rainbow shade) when they turn the correct color.
  • If temperatures start to drop and your tomatoes aren’t ripening, use one of these methods:
    1. Pull up the entire plant, brush off dirt, remove foliage, and hang the plant upside down in a basement or garage.
    2. Place mature, pale green tomatoes stem up, in a paper bag and loosely seal it. Or wrap them in newspaper and place in a cardboard box. Store in a cool (55°F to 70°F), dark place. Cooler temperatures slow ripening; warmth speeds it. Check weekly and remove soft, spotted, diseased, or ripe fruit.
  • Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
  • Watch this video for tips on how to ripen green tomatoes. 
  • You can harvest seeds from some tomato varieties. Learn how here.

How to Store Tomatoes

  • Never refrigerate fresh garden tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that give them that garden tomato taste.
  • To freeze, core fresh and unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they thaw.

See more on properly storing tomatoes and other vegetables.

Recommended Varieties

Tomatoes come in many sizes, from tiny “currant” to “cherry” to large “beefsteak.” There are thousands of tomato varieties to suit different climates and tastes. We recommend looking for disease-resistant cultivars.

Early Varieties (fewer than 70 days to harvest)
Early-maturing cultivars such as Early Girl may be slightly less flavorful but will produce fruit 2 to 3 weeks earlier than midor late-season cultivars. 

  • ‘Early Cascade’: indeterminate trailing plant, fruit in clusters; disease-resistant
  • ‘Early Girl’: indeterminate; meaty fruit; produces through the summer

Mid-season Varieties (70 to 80 days to harvest)

  • ‘Floramerica’: determinate; disease-resistant; firm, deep red flesh, strong plant
  • ‘Fantastic’: indeterminate; disease- and crack-resistant; meaty rich flavor, heavy yields

Late-season Varieties (80 days or more to harvest)

  • ‘Amish Paste’: indeterminate; heirloom; large plum tomatoes, acorn-shaped fruit; juicy, excellent for sauce.
  • ‘Brandywine’: indeterminate; heirloom; beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination, many variants are available
  • ‘Tomato, Roma VF’: determinate; compact roma tomatoes; resistant to wilts. Meaty interiors and few seeds; heavy-yielding; good for paste and canning.

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Image: Roma tomatoes. Credit: Ben185/Getty

Cherry Tomatoes 

  • ‘Sun Gold’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; resistant to Fusarium wilt and tobacco mosaic virus; bright tangerine-orange color on grapelike trusses; intensely sweet taste
  • ‘Yellow Mini (F1)’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; sweet juicy favor; compared with other cherry tomatoes, Yellow Mini resists the splitting that is caused by too much rain or inconsistent watering; high resistance to tobacco mosaic virus.

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Image: Cherry tomatoes (‘Yellow Mini F1’). Credit: Johnny Seeds.

Large Tomatoes

  • Beefsteak, Beefmaster, Ponderosa, and Oxheart are noted for their large fruit. However, these larger fruited types often are more susceptible to diseases and skin cracking. 

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Image: Black Krim heirloom beefsteak tomato. 80 days; indeterminate; wonderfully rich flavor. Credit: Park Seed.

Check out this video how to choose tomato varieties.

See full script to this video on how to choose tomato varieties.

Wit & Wisdom

  • Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.
  • In 1781, there is record of Thomas Jefferson—an experimental farmer—raising tomatoes for his guests.
  • The tomato plant is native to South America, but it was not commonly cultivated in the United States until 1835. In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Many people believed that the fruits were poisonous, which isn’t too far of a leap: Tomatoes are in the same family (Solanaceae) as deadly nightshade (Atropa belladonna). Potatoes and eggplants are also part of this family.
  • In the 19th century, the tomato was called “The Apple of Paradise” in Germany and “The Apple of Love” in France.
  • People have argued for quite a long time about whether tomatoes are fruits or vegetables!

Recipes

Cooking Notes

Tomatoes are nutritious and low in calories. One medium-sized tomato provides 57% of the recommended daily allotment (RDA) of vitamin C, 25% RDA vitamin A, and 8% RDA iron, yet it has only 35 calories.

Capture the garden-fresh taste of tomatoes all year long! See this helpful post on how to can tomatoes.

Many people also love dried tomatoes, so learn how to dry your own tomatoes here.

See our Best Tomato Recipes Ever!

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Reader Comments

Leave a Comment

Hi, I am in el cajon ca. I

Submitted by kevin fay on July 17, 2014 - 1:28pm

Hi, I am in el cajon ca. I have tomatoes coming in strong. The leaves are turning yellow and some of them are grayish. So what I have read on some of these readers and your responses, its because as a rookie tomato grower!! I watered the leaves and that is big reason for it. My question is? With the tomatoes looking healthy and all, will I be able to use them, or should I get rid of them because the leaves and all?

Most any disease, pest, or

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 18, 2014 - 2:48pm

Most any disease, pest, or cultural problem (such as leaf burn from watering) will not make the tomato fruits inedible, but might affect flavor if the plant is under a lot of stress, or the tomato fruit is not developing well or is damaged. You should be able to use the tomatoes, however, after cutting out any bad parts. If leaves are wilting or dropping, provide temporary light shade for the plant during the hot afternoon sun to help prevent sunscald of the fruit. Check for pests and diseases on the plant, in case that is what is causing the yellowing leaves. Remove any fallen leaves, in case they hold disease.

re: egg shells. I save my

Submitted by tommy tomato on July 13, 2014 - 10:19pm

re: egg shells. I save my egg shells and when I get enough of them, I pulverize them and put them in the soil
just before transplanting. There is no blossom end rot this year. Also when transplanting tomatoes, I put a tsp of Epson salt in each plant. also, my elderly Italian neighbor uses old bedsheets to tent and shade the tomatoes when the temperature is in the 90's for more than two days. He says the tomatoes will "bolt" when the tomatoes are stressed by the heat.

I live in northeast Al. We

Submitted by kengreen,maters on June 28, 2014 - 7:36pm

I live in northeast Al. We are having a lot of afternoon showers, my tomatoes won't turn red. What can I do?

You can pick all the tomatoes

Submitted by mika mane on July 4, 2014 - 7:45am

You can pick all the tomatoes you want, wash them and dry them, then put them in a plastic freezer bag with one ripe apple among them. Use a toothpick to make a couple of holes on the bag and close the bag. Put the bag in a room with lots of sun, at a sunny place (like near the window).
The tomatoes should ripe in 5-6 days and their taste will be just the same as you picked them in your garden.
This 'technique' is also used for tomatoes that aren't yet ripe when the summer's at its end, but there are still some useful quantity in the garden.
Good luck!

I have a small grow box and

Submitted by LaRayne on June 19, 2014 - 2:48pm

I have a small grow box and the manufacturer said to plant only 2 tomato plants in the box. I did that and at first they were growing like crazy but then one of the plants leaves started curling and drying out on the edges of the leaves. It still has some blossoms and hasn't dies but the other plant is now double the sized and probably has 4 times the blossoms. I'm afraid the plant will die. They both are in the same soil, same water, same fertilizer. What can I do?

Are the two tomato plants the

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 20, 2014 - 2:21pm

Are the two tomato plants the same variety? If not that could be the reason for the different growth rate. We suggest that you remove the weaker tomato and plant it in its own container.

How do you suggest staking

Submitted by val h on June 17, 2014 - 10:59pm

How do you suggest staking the plants? We can't afford to buy tons of cages but have some bamboo stakes. How and with what do you tie them up with?

Hi, Val: In a word: gently,

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 19, 2014 - 11:01am

Hi, Val: In a word: gently, because tomato plants can be fragile. And on the north side. And below where major "branches" grow, not above. Other than that, don't get too stressed over it. Bamboo stakes are fine. With any stakes, you need to keep moving the ties up, or else adding new ones. Use what you have. In our admittedly not made-for-TV case, we have some cages. We have some official "tomato stakes." We have some dead sticks and branches from trees. We had some old croquet posts at one (early) point, and some old hiking poles. Whatever. You can string between stakes to hold up plants, too. For ties, we use strips of rags, but you can use old socks, string, twine, wire, flagging tape (like surveyors tie to trees), twist ties twisted together, or cable ties. We also use some double-sided Velcro tape that is meant to keep computer cables together. Just be gentle. Be creative and have fun! You know, besides your huge tomatoes, your stakes can be a conversation piece, too!

Our planter boxes are going

Submitted by Sue Deming on July 8, 2014 - 6:40pm

Our planter boxes are going crazy..We are just not sure how oten to fill the bottom in this heat,,tomatoes are all over the place!

thank you this website helped

Submitted by Kassandra Diamond on June 10, 2014 - 4:42pm

thank you this website helped both me and my grandmother make our garden successfull

Thank YOU! We wouldn't have

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 19, 2014 - 10:43am

Thank YOU! We wouldn't have had anything to help if you hadn't taken the initiative!

What's the best part of the

Submitted by caseydog on June 6, 2014 - 6:20pm

What's the best part of the day to pick tomatoes? I'd like to get them in the morning, but I'm off at the rat race before dawn?

Almost all vegetables are

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 7, 2014 - 2:22am

Almost all vegetables are best when harvested early in the morning. So, that should work for you! Harvested tomatoes should be placed in the shade and then at room temperature (70 °F) . The refrigerator will ruin their taste. Tomatoes should be firm and fully colored at harvest. 

Hi I planted tomato plants

Submitted by Teresa Dunfee on June 6, 2014 - 4:54pm

Hi I planted tomato plants under some shade it gets really hot here in Ohio will they be okay or do they have to have the direct sun

You need 8 hours of direct

Submitted by caseydog on June 6, 2014 - 6:22pm

You need 8 hours of direct sun.

As caseydog says, you need

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 7, 2014 - 2:25am

As caseydog says, you need direct sunlight. In terms of hot summer days, note that tomatoes are of highest quality when temps average 75°F. When they get to 90°F or more, the softening process is accelerated. So, if the temps get this high, pick your tomatoes every day or two, harvesting the fruits when color has started to develop and ripen them further indoors (at 70 to 75°F). Do not put tomatoes in the refrigerator or you ruin their vine-fresh taste.

Hey there. First time grower

Submitted by Timmy tomato on June 4, 2014 - 12:08pm

Hey there. First time grower long time eater...I've read many replies about the sucked stems...how do you know which are suckered and which are not?

We built a 4x4 raised bed

Submitted by Ailie on May 29, 2014 - 5:28pm

We built a 4x4 raised bed garden. How many tomato plants can we grow in this space?

Hi, Ailie: It somewhat

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 30, 2014 - 12:33pm

Hi, Ailie: It somewhat depends on the type(s) of tomato, but it sounds to us like your answer is four. Put one plant in the center of each of the four quadrants of your box.

I would strongly suggest

Submitted by Georgie B on August 22, 2014 - 11:37pm

I would strongly suggest first if it is a wooden raised bed to screw one long stake up against about 3 inches down the outside of your raised bed perfect set up then I usually put one tomato plant almost right in each corner that is four plants please do not put them toward the center of each quadrene cause they will be to close and compete for the food and water and get unhealthy plants prone to desease and minimize the needed air flow

Hi,I'm Amanda my tomato plant

Submitted by Amanda612 on May 27, 2014 - 4:47pm

Hi,I'm Amanda
my tomato plant has a few leaves on the bottom half that have whitish more fluffy looking small spots that are about 3/4 centimeters in diameter. Also a few of its leaves have yellowish patches. Is this normal and is there something i should do about it

It sounds like your tomato

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 28, 2014 - 12:59pm

It sounds like your tomato plant might have powdery mildew, which shows up as yellow patches on leaves, but also a bit of the characteristic powdery white growth. This interferes with the vigor of the plant and fruit size, but should not kill it, unless severe (it will kill individual leaves). To avoid, water the plant only on the bottom, as wet leaves tend to encourage the disease. Also, provide good air circulation and sunlight. To treat, consult a local garden nursery for various products, organic and inorganic depending on your preference. A common preventative involves formulas containing sulfur; horticultural oil is a common treatment if the disease is already there. Also, remove affected leaves (only remove up to a third of the leaves on the plant, though). Clean tools before and after pruning.

Well this could be a couple

Submitted by George Bouthillier on September 4, 2014 - 12:11am

Well this could be a couple of things so I will give you inexpensive ways to treat it with ingredients you usually have in you kitchen!Blight,powdery or downy mildew!Here are all the ways to treat but alternate all these every 2 to 3 day for a couple of weeks then back off alittle on the treatment but be sure first to clear about atleast the bottom 12 inches of leaves of the plant to increase air circulation that will minimize the blight and mildew problems and disinfect sissors as you trim off the branches so you do not spread it to other plants and be sure to burn the infected leaves or seal them in a garbage bag and throw them away cause they will survive and infect you next years new planting!Ok that said take a couple table spoons of cornmeal and powdered milk each and mix in the surface of soil around the plant the cornmeal feeds the friendly bacteria that will have that have the ability to controll and minimize blight whitch is a soil born illness that splashes on the plant during rain and watering and infects your leaves and plant,the milk just has the ability to minimize bad mildew growth and also minimizes the effect of tobacco mosaic and assists in stopping blossom end rot,then make different plant sprays and alternate them from day to day ,1 tablespoon of bakingsoda to 1 gallon water with about 1-2 teaspoons of castile soad or a mild dish washinf liquid so it sticks to the plant,in a blender puree 5 to 10 cloves of garlic in hot water then strain threw a fine tea strainer or cloth rag into a 1 gallon container of water and spray entire plant,also in very warm water 1 gallon jar with sealed top put in 1 cup of cornmeal shake well wrap with a towel or similar to keep warm let steep for atleast 8 to 24 hours then strain threw fine tea strainer or similar and spray entire plant also you can take 3 tablespoons of powdered milk or alittle more mix with 1 gallon water mix mild castile or dish liquid so it adheres to plants spray entire plant! This part is very critical DO NOT DO IT LATE IN THE DAY OR NEAR DUSK CAUSE THE EXTRA DAMPNESS ON THE PLANT WILL STAY THERE TO LONG AND MAKE YOUR PROBLEM WORSE PLEASE DO IT IN THE EARLY MORNING BEFORE THE BEES AND POLLINATORS START THEIR WORK ALL OF IT IS BASICALLY NON POISONOUS IT IS JUST TROUBLESOME TO AVOID THE BEES AND SUCH i STRONGLY SUGGEST TO USE THE GARLIC SPRAY IT IS VERY UNIVERSAL AND EFFECTIVE BUT FOR A SHORT WHILE VERY SHORT THE POLLINATORS WILL AVOID THE AREA FOR A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME BUT YOU HAVE NO CHOICE EITHER USE WHAT WORKS THAT IS NON POISONOUS OR LOOSE SOME PLANTS OR HAVE UNHEALTHY PLANT WITH SEVERE HEALTH ISSUES THAT MANY TIMES LIMITS YOUR HARVEST AND CAN CAUSE THE LOSS OF SOME OR ALOT OF YOUR PLANTS DEPENDING ON HOW SEVERE YOU LET IT GET A HOLD OF THE PLANTS BEFORE YOU ADDRESS THE ISSUE TO SAFE AND MINIMIZE THE PROBLEMS SORRY FOR SUCH LONG DETAIL BUT I HOPE THIS HELPS YOU!!

with my tomato plants, I have

Submitted by T.Hunt on May 26, 2014 - 5:41am

with my tomato plants, I have the little yellow flowers opening up and I tear them off for the plant to grow more. When should I stop doing this and allow tomatoes to start growing?

The tiny flowers develop into

Submitted by rnovakovich@hot... on May 27, 2014 - 5:28pm

The tiny flowers develop into tomaoes DO NOT RIP THEM OFF. Instead snip off "suckers" they are a branch between the main stem and an off shoot. THis will increse size and allow plant to develop better.

I have 5 tomato plants. 2

Submitted by Erica Gallegos on May 18, 2014 - 5:22pm

I have 5 tomato plants. 2 large and 3 small. I bought them from the FFA club at my high school they are in plastic potting cups according to their size. I have been watering them everyday, they are on my balcony and I'm pretty sure they get about half and half sunlight. But they aren't growing, should I change out the soil? Buy one big rectangle above ground pot for all of them? Please help I don't want them to die.

Hi Erica, Tomatoes need a lot

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 19, 2014 - 10:58am

Hi Erica,
Tomatoes need a lot of sun and warmth to grow. Maybe your outside temps. are still cool. You can repot the tomatoes in bigger containers. Maybe plant the three small plants in one big container. Add some compost to the soil mix and make sure the containers have drainage holes.

Hi, this is my 5th year

Submitted by lauralie on April 23, 2014 - 2:11am

Hi, this is my 5th year growing tomatoes. I had a ton of success my first few years, but then I moved and have been struggling to get my tomatoes to grow. This last year was awful so I pulled them all out, fertilized with kellog organic fertilizer and replanted some from my father-in-laws garden. They are from seed from his last crop and seemed to be doing well in that they are a healthy green and flowering with some fruit growing, but they are such small plants. I am used to seeing my tomatoes take off by the second month. I transplanted these in early March.Are they destined to be small runted plants or do I need to fix my soil to help them to grow larger?

I should add that they are

Submitted by lauralie on April 23, 2014 - 2:14am

I should add that they are growing in a raised bed against a north facing wall and actually get a lot of shade; with sun in the afternoon.

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Growing Tomatoes

Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum
Plant Type Vegetable
Sun Exposure Full Sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Acidic, Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11
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