Black-eyed Susans

Whether your black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia sp.) will return will depend in part on whether it is an annual, biennial, or perennial type. Is it a particular species and/or cultivar? If so, you can ask a nursery as to whether it is expected to come back next year. Rudbeckia hirta can be a biennial, annual, or short-lived perennial depending on where you live.

Annuals will flower the first year and then die. Biennials will produce leaves and stems the first year; the second year they will flower and then die. Perennials will live for several years.

Cutting perennials back after flowering can encourage a smaller fall bloom in some types. Also for perennial types, you can cut the dead stems back in winter in preparation for new growth in spring.

In case your plant is a perennial, you might want to cover the area with mulch to protect the roots. Then in spring, you can see if new growth starts up.

Hope this helps!

Of course, if the black-eyed Susan seeds would normally fall to the ground, we would hardly notice them in their dormant period. So it makes sense that they would thrive, albeit slowly, in your aero garden. However, about this: Try this two ways. Plant some seeds in your aero garden and put some aside in an envelope. (Think of it as a seed packet.) See which do best and proceed on that course in future. Let us know how it goes.

This is probably the work of wildlife: deer, groundhogs, even rabbits will eat such a bloom buffet. Your plants may flower again this season. If they do not, it might because it's too late in season. At least take heart that the plants are not dead. They should flower again next year. To hinder critters next year, hang a bar of soap nearby (the aroma and/or taste can be a repellant) or dowse the plants with pepper spray (do it again after a rain). As a last resort, you might need or want to try fencing or screening. Whatever happens, don't lose YOUR head over a solution.

The leaves of a healthy black-eyed susan are usually "dull green" so this may be normal. If the leaves, however, start to brown or black, you could have a fungus. If this is a problem, pinch off those leaves. In general, be sure to water at soil line, never overhead, and be sure to thin and avoid overcrowding to ensure good air circulation.

If the black spots look like lesions, you have leaf spot (a fungus). This is often related to humidity or lack of air circulation. To treat, remove the infected leaves at the end of the growing season. In the future: 1. Make sure your plants are spaced to avoid over-crowding. 2. Avoid overhead watering. 3. Clean up the foliage this fall so that fewer fungal spores overwinter. 4. In the spring, spray an all-purpose fungicide (containing chlorothalonil) to reduce disease spread.

Your planting time depends on your USDA hardiness zone. For most zones, planting time is over by June/July. However, you can plant in Zone 10 and 11 in Oct/Nov. Essentially the soil temperatures should be at least 70 degrees F. The seeds take 7 days to 30 days to germinate (check your seed packet) so blooming time is generally June through August in most regions.

Germination is 7 to 30 days, depending on variety and conditions.

Sounds like it's just drooping from the transplant. Keep that root ball well-watered for at least a week. These flowers are Sun worshippers and need a lot of sun, but it can help to shade them from the heat the first few days after transplanting.

Ideally, you'd cut down and remove dead foliage in late fall and then transplant in spring. You can transplant in fall, too, though you may have some seed drop.

Rabbits do like this plant. There are also foliage-loving bugs. Go out after dark with a flashlight and examine your plant for slugs, earwigs, whiteflies, etc. (Google for photos or see our pest library). Once you identify the pest, you can figure out a control to deter it.