Botanical name: Malus domestica
Plant type: Fruit
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Loamy
Soil pH: Neutral
Ever wish you could have an apple orchard in your backyard? You can—in the space of a single tree—if you plant a hedge of dwarf apple trees or an apple espalier.
To get started, let's talk about selection criteria first:
- Look for disease-resistant trees that give you the ability to grow organic fruit or to use fewer chemicals. Maintenance is easier, too.
- Plant dwarf or semidwarf apple trees for ease of care and harvest. Dwarf trees won't take over the yard!
- Buy dormant, bare-root, 1-year-old trees, is possible. Dwarfs and semidwarfs will bear in 3 to 4 years, yielding 1 to 2 bushels per year. Standard-size trees will bear in 5 to 8 years, yielding 4 to 5 bushels of apples per year.
- Most apple varieties do not pollinate themselves; this requires planting at least two different apple tree varieties close to one another so that the bees can pollinate. (There are actually some self-pollinating apple tree varieties if you are really short on space. See list of self-fertile apples. However, even these apple trees will bear more fruit if cross-pollinated.)
- Choose the right rootstock (foundation). For dwarf trees, make sure that the rootstock is specified. A Bud 9 is a common, hardy tree that's easy to train for USDA Climate Zones 3 to 5. The M9 is probably the most widely planted rootstock, though it would die in frigid winters.
Planting
Spring planting is recommended in central and northern areas. Where fall and winter weather is generally mild and moist, fall planting is successful.
Climate Considerations
- Not every apple grows everywhere. Each variety has a specific number of days needed for fruit maturity.
- Tree tags don't always tell you where the variety grows best, but many catalogs do. Also, check with your county extension agent for a specific recommendation for your area.
- As a general rule, if a tree is termed hardy, it grows best in Zones 3 to 5. If termed long-season, apple quality will be best in Zones 5 to 8. Check your zone here.
- Each variety has a number of chill hours needed to set fruit (i.e., the amount of time temperatures are between 32 and 45 degrees F). The farther north you go, the more chill hours an apple variety needs to avoid late spring freeze problems. Check tree tags for chill hour information or ask the seller.
Site and Soil
- Choose a sunny site. For best fruiting, an apple tree needs "full sunlight," which means six or more hours of direct summer sun daily. The best exposure for apples is a north- or east-facing slope.
- Pay attention to the soil. Apple trees need well-drained soil, not too wet. Soil needs to be moderately rich and retain moisture as well as air; mulch with straw, hay, or some other organic material to keep soil moist and provide nutrients as they decompose.
- Dwarf apple trees are notoriously prone to uprooting under the weight of a heavy crop, so you should provide a support system for your hedge. You can grow your trees against a fence, or you can provide free-standing support in the form of a trellis.
Cross-Pollinating
- Cross-pollination occurs between varieties, so you need at least two different varieties, not just two different trees.
- If you lack space for more than one apple tree (or do not want more than one), the pollen came come from somewhere else. You could graft a single branch of another variety onto your tree, rely on a nearby neighbor's tree or crab apple tree, or snip of a flowering branch from another variety at bloom time and set it into a bucket of water at the base of your tree.
- For best results, include a 'Grimes Golden', 'Golden Delicious', 'Red Delicious', or 'Winter Banana' in your planting. These varieties are known pollinators.
- Nursery catalogs will provide pollination charts.
Care
Minimize Pruning of a Young Tree
Pruning slows a young tree's overall growth and can delay fruiting, so don't be in a hurry to prune, other than removing misplaced, broken, or dead branches. There are several techniques to direct growth without heavy pruning. For example:
- Rub off misplaced buds before they grow into misplaced branches.
- Bend a stem down almost horizontally for a few weeks to slow growth and promote branches and fruiting. Tie down with strings to stakes in the ground or to lower branches.
Prune a Mature Tree Annually
Once an apple tree has filled in and is bearing fruit, it requires regular, moderate pruning.
- Prune your mature tree when it is dormant. Completely cut away overly vigorous, upright stems (most common high up in the tree).
- Remove weak twigs (which often hang from the undersides of limbs.
- Shorten stems that become too droopy, especially those low in the tree.
- After about ten years, fruiting spurs (stubby branches that elongate only about a half-inch per year) become overcrowded and decrepit. Cut away some of them and shorten others.
- When a whole limb of fruiting spurs declines with age, cut it back to make room for a younger replacement.
Thin Ruthlessly
- Thin or remove excess fruit. This seems hard but this practice evens out production, prevents a heavy crop from breaking limbs, and ensures better-tasting, larger fruit crop.
- Soon after fruit-set, remove the smallest fruits or damaged ones,leaving four inches between those that remain.
Pests
Apples are prone to pests. Here are some pointers:
- Keep deer at bay with repellents or fencing; deter mice and rabbits with wire-mesh cylinders around the base of the tree.
- Sprays may be needed for insects, although one of the worst culprits, the apple maggot, can be trapped simply enough by hanging one or two round, softball-size balls, painted red and coated with sticky "Tangle-Trap," from a branch in June through the summer. Reapply the sticky goo a time or two, as necessary.
- Fend off diseases by raking apple leaves, burying them beneath mulch, or grinding them with a lawn mower at season's end.
- Pruning reduces disease by letting in more light and air.
Harvest/Storage
Harvest Patiently. After all this pruning and caring, be sure to harvest your apples at their peak of perfection.
- Pluck your apples when their background color is no longer green.
- Different apple varieties mature at different times, so the harvest season can stretch from August to October.
- At this point, the stem should part readily from the branch when the fruit is cupped in the palm of your hand and given a slight twist around, then up.
- If the apple is overripe and soft, use for cooking!
- Apples keep well for about six months at temperatures between 32 and 45 degrees F.
"Baked apples have an excellent effect upon the whole physical system, feeding the brain as well as adding to the flesh, and keeping the blood pure; also preventing constipation and correcting a tendency to acidity, which produces rheumatism and neuralgia." –A Tip from The 1898 Old Farmer's Almanac
Recommended Varieties
Beyond climate considerations, how will you use your apples? Do you love to bake apple pies? Or, perhaps you just want apples that taste far better than what you could buy in a grocery store.
- A young dwarf tree produces about 1 1/2 bushels of fruit—and even less when the tree is part of an apple hedge. So, if you're interested in baking lots of 'Cox's Orange Pippin' apple pies, you'll need to plant several trees of that variety to get enough fruit.
- If you have no particular culinary goal, try planting one each of different varieties that ripen over the entire harvest season. Then you can enjoy regular apple tastings and still have enough fruit on hand for a "mess" of cooked apples.
- Plant disease-resistant apple varieties such as 'Liberty', 'Jonafree', 'Macfree', and 'Williams Pride'.
- Seek out the advice of local orchardists about the varieties that will do well in your area. Do the bulk of your planning from an easy chair, with a half-dozen nursery catalogs in your lap!
Recipes
Cooking Notes
See our table on the best baking and cooking apples in North America.
Wit & Wisdom
- March 11 is Johnny Appleseed Day, celebrating John Chapman, legendary American pioneer and folk hero who planted apple trees across the American Frontier.
- Did you know that apples and aged cheeses can reduce tooth plaque? (Eat them together!)
- A bad woman can't make good applesauce.–proverb





Comments
I have an apple tree, and I
- reply
By angelita wade on June 18
I have an apple tree, and I have a ruby red greatfruit on one side and an navel orange tree on the other side will I still get apples? My apple tree blumed but I dont see any apples tree looks very healthy.I have seen bees on my treeWhat can I do to make it blum some more?
I'm using Bonide fruit tree
- reply
By tina nickell on June 17
I'm using Bonide fruit tree spray concentrate insecticide and fungicide and it says do not spray more than 2 times per year. how often should I spray a dwarf apple tree and when
We advise that you check with
- reply
By Almanac Staff on June 17
We advise that you check with the Bonide company regarding the latest labeling. However, note that this product contains an insecticide that may harm bees which pollinate apple trees so do not use during bloom time at all; it's for well after the petals have fallen.
i bouth 8 apples trees last
- reply
By RICHARD CARON on June 16
i bouth 8 apples trees last year and there was son apples in it and this years the leaf are comming but not even 1 flower grows and the leaft are green and it look like there dry out can you tell me why it dont blom and thank you for your time
There are a couple common
- reply
By Almanac Staff on June 17
There are a couple common reasons why apple trees do not blossom: 1. Not enough sunlight. 2. Not enough "chill hours" as apples need a minimum number of hours with temperatures under 45 degrees. 3. Too much nitrogen fertilizer in the soil around the tree. Your comment about "dried out" leaves concerns us. We suggest sending or taking leaf samples to your county cooperative extension. Dried-out leaves can indicate a serious root problem.
We didn't even realize we had
- reply
By michelets on June 15
We didn't even realize we had an apple tree and no idea how it got there - been in the house for 30 years and nephew when out back two years ago and picked five big juicy awesome tasting apples of the tree. Nothing last Summer - now it is is full of flowers(BLOSSOMS) Will these turn into apples and when?
In order for those blossoms
- reply
By Almanac Staff on June 17
In order for those blossoms to become apples, you need 1) two or more apple tree varieties near each other so that they can pollinate and 2) bees which carry the pollen from one flower to another. You'll know if they are pollinated: If apple seeds develop, the petals from the blossoms will fall off. Next the fruit will start developing. So -- there must have been a nearby tree that is was blooming at the same time that yours bloomed last year?
hi i live in nigeria nd i'll
- reply
By emman kokwill on June 14
hi i live in nigeria nd i'll like to know if my apple can really grow in country?
I think this is weird. We
- reply
By Sharon R on June 12
I think this is weird. We have an apple tree with an almost totally grown apple on it that is now blossoming.
Hi - We live in Madison, WI
- reply
By Apple Tree Fan in Wisconsin on June 10
Hi - We live in Madison, WI and this is our 3rd spring in this house. There's a mature, or seems to be a fairly mature, apple tree in our backyard (south-facing) that produced a beautiful crop of large honey-crisp type apples last year. (Even with the drought -- we watered it pretty regularly.) But it appears that there aren't going to be any apples on it this year (as was the case two seasons ago as well.) Is it common for some apple trees to only produce fruit every other year?? There is another apple tree in the back yard that has never produced more than a handful of apples that seems to have a few more apples forming this year. That one is a flowering apple tree whereas the main one that produced the great apples last year does not flower much at all but otherwise has a lot of new growth and looks healthy. (We pruned it a fair amount late late last Fall.) Any thoughts about the lack of apples?
There could be a couple of
- reply
By Almanac Staff on June 12
There could be a couple of reasons for the lack of fruit this year. Heavy pruning, where you remove a portion of a branch, will stimulate more vegetative growth and delay flowering.
A normal apple tree develops buds for next year at the same time it matures the fruit for the current crop. Last fall your tree may have used most of its energy to mature the many apples and formed less new buds for this years.
Late frosts in the spring can also damage the new flower buds.
We get apples on our trees
- reply
By Rebecca Allison on June 6
We get apples on our trees but they never get big and they fall off before they have a chance to get bigger. What are we doing wrong?
There are many reasons why
- reply
By Almanac Staff on June 7
There are many reasons why apples fall off the tree early. Often, it's due to lack of good pollination by bees. Also, apples must have cross-pollination in order to develop fruit; they cannot pollinate themselves or any flowers of the same apple variety. Plant at least two varieties of apple trees together in order to maximize fruit production and quality. Make sure that the varieties you choose have overlapping bloom dates.
Fertility is also influenced by good tree nutrition. Take soil tests and follow fertilization guidelines based on these tests; do not overfertilize. As a general rule, we apply 1 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer to each tree the first year, 2 pounds the second year, and 3 pounds the third year up to a maximum of 5 to 6 pounds for a mature tree. Apply in late winter or early spring before growth begins--and do not apply to near the tree trunk.
I have a red delicious apple
- reply
By Rebecca G. on May 28
I have a red delicious apple tree and it is probably about a year old and a half old. I took a seed and refrigerated it with a damp paper towel which worked really well and it has been in a pot ever since. The tree is really thin and the leaves start about one and a half feet from the bottom. It is just over three feet now. I was just wondering how long I can keep my tree in a pot? I was not planning on keeping it in a pot for so long but I moved from OH to SC and now I live in an apartment so I am unable to plant it. Right now it is sitting on the balcony and seems to be doing really well. It dropped off its leaves in the winter and I thought it was dead but then it grew them back and has grown almost two feet since spring started. I won't be living in a house for another 6 to 8 months though. Will my tree survive until then? Also, it is siting in OH dirt right now and I have noticed that the dirt around here is a reddish color. Will the change in soil be a problem? Oh and should I water it in the winter? Sorry for all the questions, I have never grown a tree before but it is pretty exciting because I never expected my seeds to actually sprout in the refrigerator. It was more of an experiment than a plan.
Your tree will be fine in a
- reply
By Almanac Staff on May 30
Your tree will be fine in a container for another few months. You may have to repot it into a bigger pot. Fall and spring are the best times to transplant into the ground. Make sure the soil is well-drained and not too wet. Soil needs to be moderately rich and retain moisture as well as air. Add lots of compost to the planting hole. The tree goes dormant in the winter so there is no need to water it. Good luck with your "experiment"!
I was lucky enough to plant
- reply
By Nicloa on May 20
I was lucky enough to plant an apple seed, and it grew. It is a few years old, now (didn't seem to grow past 6inches the first few years), and is about 3-4ft tall. It is quite thin, but is full of leaves and has a few branches. I now know to prune it in Fall. My question is how do I grow more? I have tried several times, since, to grow from seed, with no results. I made sure that I used organic apples, and tried pears. I don't mind what it turns into- in fact it seems like fun to find out in later years. What kind of apple, or pear, is most likely to grow?
Try exposing the seeds to
- reply
By Almanac Staff on May 22
Try exposing the seeds to cold first. Place the seeds in a plastic bag with a damp paper towel. Put the bag in the refrigerator for about 6 weeks. Then plant in a pot with soil. Only about 30% of the seeds will germinate. Good luck!
Apple Trees
- reply
By Anonymous
How do you graft an apple tree scion into a suitable apple rootstock?
no blossoms last year
- reply
By Anonymous
I planted 2 young honeycrisp trees a few years ago (the kid at the store said I need 2 trees but left out the all-important words "of different varieties" - big sigh). Last year I got no blossoms at all. This year they look good and have lots of leaves, but no blossoms yet. My next door neighbor has a very large apple tree and he got no blossoms last year either. This year his tree is all leafy, but no blossoms yet. I'm counting on his tree to pollinate mine. When do apples bloom? Sorry, I'm a newbie.
Apples bloom in the spring
- reply
By Almanac Staff on May 22
Apples bloom in the spring after the leaves first come out. You will see a group of flower buds in the center of the leaves. Here in New Hampshire our trees are in full bloom.
wow apples are nice
- reply
By Anonymous
wow ive just grown my own apple tree, and we are loving it. we are justed beginers!!!hoping for the best with are apple tree.
Where to buy
- reply
By Anonymous
Where in US I can buy young apple tree ofvariety "Close" with its pollinizer?
Thanks for your question. We
- reply
By Almanac Staff on May 22
Thanks for your question. We have not heard of a variety of apples called 'Close'. Maybe one of our Almanac.com friends can help.
Is My Tree a phony McIntosh???
- reply
By Anonymous
I bought a sale-priced McIntosh-labeled tree about 13 years ago. After about 7 years it finally blossomed and I got 3 little apples. Each year the # of apples increased. I mentioned this to my landscaper (who I trust) and he told me it was a crabapple! It's the only fruit-bearing tree in my yard (whenever I grow something I call it a "science experiment" so that I don't feel too guilty when it dies). This tree began coming full of fruit (about 20 little apples) last year, and this year the flowers are all over the tree! I've looked it up online to see if it's a McIntosh or crabapple, and the flowers look alike. Since I don't eat my science experiments, how do I find out if it's a McIntosh or a crabapple tree? Thank you!!!
crab apples will be a lot
- reply
By Anonymous
crab apples will be a lot smaller than mcintosh apples. and they're usually all green, and very sour.
Thank you!
- reply
By Anonymous
I hadn't thought of that! Thank you! They are red and have seeds, so I guess they are McIntosh afterall! Maybe I'll eat one this summer. Take care, Becky
I don't grow apples
- reply
By Anonymous
...I happened on this doing research for a story but I LOVED it. I love apples and discovered I love reading about them. Very interesting and maybe I'll try a couple of apple trees. I also learned that I should not have so radically pruned my flowering crab when it was so young. :( Any hope it will recover? It's five years old, thin and spindly but healthy.
Your crab apple tree will do
- reply
By Almanac Staff
Your crab apple tree will do fine. It will grow back. In the future just prune to open up the branches to let more sun and air into the tree.
Is my tree gonna make it?
- reply
By Anonymous
I ate a giant green granny apple and I planted the seed. It was growing fast and good n healthy.I went on vacation and my brother (smh) didn't water the plants so it lost all of its leaves. I changed pots because the pot it was in was too small. The pot is about 12in high and the tree is about 3ft high. The bark is pretty strong but because of the winds I put in a stick so that it doesn't break. It has five small branches and a leaf appeared on it. It's been a couple of months since its had a leaf. But I didn't give up. Do you think that by the time summer comes around it will grow back its leaves? It also has what looks like two smaller apple trees starting to grow on the base of this tree. Should I cut them off or just let them grow? I don't know if telling you I live in California helps.
Let the tree grow another
- reply
By Almanac Staff
Let the tree grow another month or so to see if it will have more leaves. Leave one of the smaller trees to grow in case you have to cut the original tree back.
Be aware that apples do not reproduce true from seed so the fruit is unlikely to resemble the granny apple the seed came from.
Post new comment