Weeds can be quite a nuisance in the garden, so here are some techniques for ridding your garden of these problematic plants.
Mulch:
Mulch is a covering that blocks daylight and inhibits growth under it. Cover the soil between your plants and along rows. Keep the mulch a few inches from the base of your plants to also discourage insect invasions. For mulch, you can use materials such as wheat straw, shredded leaves, or other organic matter. Layer it on the ground about 2 inches thick.
For persistent or numerous weeds, try covering the area with dampened newspaper (black ink only) and then cover with 2 inches of mulch. Around the bases of trees and shrubs, consider covering the ground with landscape fabric and then mulch.
Cover Crop:
In some situations, you can use a cover crop to block weeds. See our list of cover crops suitable for growing in various regions of the U.S. and Canada.
Pull:
For better or worse, you need to manually pull out most weeds. Wear waterproof gloves and consider a comfortable sitting pad for extensive weeding. The trick to pulling weeds is to get the root out as well. Weeds will slide out of the soil easier when the soil is wet—and when the weeds are young. Pull the weed from its base (close to the soil line); if you miss the root, try using a fork to gently pry the plant out of the ground, roots and all.
Dig:
If your weeds regrow, then you have a persistent root that you need to dig out. Use a spade or digging fork to dig up persistent weeds by the roots. Remove as many root pieces as you can.
While weeding, hold the trowel vertically (like a child holding a crayon) to eliminate strain on your wrist.
Chop:
If digging out weeds is difficult for you, at least resolve to keep them from setting seed. Chop off their heads once a week!
Minimize Soil Disruption:
Gardeners used to advocate cultivation—stirring the top one or two inches of soil to damage weeds' roots and tops, causing them to die. However, unless you are able to fully remove the roots from the soil, cultivation seems to simply expose dormant weed seeds to light and air, awakening them. It may be best to preserve the natural soil layers.
Some folks say it helps to turn your soil at night to control weeds. Research indicates that weeds may be stimulated to grow by a sudden flash of light, which is what you give them when you turn the soil over during the day. A German study concluded that by turning the soil at night, weed germination could be reduced by as much as 78 percent. You can try this method by working during a moonlit night, or at dawn or dusk.
Trim:
Keep the edges of your garden mowed; this will help prevent a weed invasion.
Close Ranks:
If your soil is rich and well tilled, plant your plants closer together. This will cut down weed growth.
Start your warm weather plants as soon as you can, to keep the soil from being bare for too long. At the end of the season, plant cover crops such as rye grass, winter wheat, or oats to prevent weeds from finding a home in your garden.
Cut Them Off at the Pass:
Encourage weeds to grow before you plant your garden. Lay sheets of clear plastic over your garden in early spring to warm up the soil and encourage weeds to germinate. Once the weeds are several inches above the soil, pull or hoe them out. Then plant your own crops.
Use Drip Irrigation:
If you can irrigate only the plants that need it, you may avoid the cultivation of weeds in unplanted areas, paths, and areas where they are not welcome.
Also, be sure to look at our list of common weeds to help identify what's growing in your garden.
Please share your best weeding tips below! We're always learning as gardeners!
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Comments
there is another solution for
there is another solution for some weeds....EAT THEM!
dandelions, plantain, young dock, violet (flowers and leaves), sorel, lambs quarters, garlic mustard, chickweed, purslane are all edible, especially when they are young. in trendy stores, you sometimes see these weeds up for sale at premium prices! many weeds make cheap (free!) medicines -- plaintain is called the bandaid plant in that it soothes and heals cuts, scrapes and insect bites. throw away the roundup and bring out the forks. :)
My garden does not suffer
My garden does not suffer from edible weeds but more like caterpillar grass and these little weeds that look like mimosa tree starters. If you find a recipe with these in it let me know.
Why, if using newspaper, does
Why, if using newspaper, does it have to be only black ink? I have been just using shredded paper, junk mail, scratch paper etc...
Most newspaper publishers now
Most newspaper publishers now print with soy- or water-based inks, so black-and-white pages are usually safe to recycle back into the soil. The inks used in full-color glossy advertisements, coupons, and magazines may still contain heavy metals, and are not the best choice for your soil. Best consign them to the recycling bin!
I mulch my garden with my
I mulch my garden with my lawn clippings. It not only keeps the weeds down, but keeps your produce clean as well!
We have creeping charlie all
We have creeping charlie all over 0ur yard...Please someone tell us how to get rid of this pesty stuff. I know it is a cover moss..or that is what we were told.
A tip from readers is to try
A tip from readers is to try salt.Another suggestion is hand weeding and planting something else such as a ground ivy in the area where the creeping Charlie is growing to 'push out" the creeping Charlie. Hope this information is useful!
My husband got organic mulch
My husband got organic mulch a few years ago - we now have wild onions all over our flower beds. We've tried numerous things to get rid of them. Nothing has worked and they are a huge pain to try and dig up. Even that hasn't worked! Does anyone have any recommendations?
Wild onions are difficult to
Wild onions are difficult to control with weed killers, in part because of the wax-like foliage that makes liquid weed killer applications run off into the soil without being absorbed into the green of the weed plant. However, repeated application of a lawn weed killer containing the active ingredients 2,4-D plus Dicamba will reduce the number of wild onions. At the same time, do all necessary work to correct pH problems and soil conditions.
We recently relocated to
We recently relocated to Wisconsin (Madison area) and have about a half acre we would like to garden. However it seems the folks before us weren't as enthusiastic and there is what I've been told is Canadian Thistle all over the place(like two thirds of the plot). What can we do?
Round-up is a good solution.
Round-up is a good solution. You can just spray it on the base if you like. It may take several treatments and probably will do a better job as a late summer or fall application.For more information,here are a couple of helpful links:
http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf619427.tip.html
http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/weed/thistle.htm
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I have been trying to kill
I have been trying to kill Kentucky blue glass for the past year, I have dig it up and the root are like three feet deep, any suggesture in how to kill the root under the soil?
If you have some time, you
If you have some time, you can cover the area with black plastic and let the grass be covered all summer. Note that annual bluegrass comes up in the spring, but it germinates in the fall so you need to use a pre emergent in the late summer and before it seeds in the spring. If you can't wait for these options, you could probably get rid of it with a nonselective herbicide like glyphosate (see your garden center), but that will kill all the grass, not just the annual bluegrass.
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