Botanical name: Vaccinium
Plant type: Fruit
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Any
Soil pH: Acidic

The modern blueberry is a 20th century invention. Before the 1900s, the only way to enjoy these North American natives was to find them in the wild. Then, scientists started to unlock the secrets of cultivating blueberries, and we’re glad they did! Plump, juicy berries are now easy to grow in your backyard on bushes that are resistant to most pests and diseases, and can produce for up to 20 years. A relative of rhododendron and azalea, blueberry bushes are also an attractive addition to your overall landscape, offering scarlet fall foliage and creamy white spring flowers.
There are three types of blueberries: highbush, lowbush and hybrid half-high. The most commonly planted blueberry is the highbush. Most blueberry breeding has focused on this species, so there are many varieties that range widely in cold hardiness and fruit season, size, and flavor. See more about blueberry varieties below.
Planting
- Blueberries are picky about soil. They require one that is acidic, high in organic matter, and well-drained yet moist. pH should ideally be between 4 and 5.
- Bushes should be planted in the early spring. If available, one to three-year-old plants are a good choice. Be sure to go to a reputable nursery.
- Dig holes about 20 inches deep and 18 inches wide.
- Space bushes about 5 feet apart.
- Apply fertilizer one month after planting, not at time of planting.
Care
- Mulch to keep shallow blueberry root systems moist, which is essential. Apply a 2-4 inch layer of woodchips, saw dust or pine needles after planting.
- Supply one to two inches of water per week.
- For the first four years after planting, there is no need to prune blueberry bushes. From then on, pruning is needed to stimulate growth of the new shoots that will bear fruit the following season.
- Drape netting over ripening blueberries, so that the birds won't make away with the entire crop.
- Prune plants in late winter, preferably just before growth begins.
- On highbush varieties, begin with large cuts, removing wood that is more than six years old, drooping to the ground, or crowding the center of the bush. Also remove low-growing branches whose fruit will touch the ground, as well as spindly twigs.
- Prune lowbush blueberries by cutting all stems to ground level. Pruned plants will not bear the season following pruning, so prune a different half of a planting every two years (or a different third of a planting every three years).
- Do not allow the bush to produce fruit for the first couple of years. Pinch back blossoms, this will help to stimulate growth.
Pests
- Birds
- Blueberry Maggot
- Powdery Mildew
Harvest/Storage
- Blueberries will be ready for picking in late July-mid August.
- Don’t rush to pick the berries as soon as they turn blue. Wait a couple days. When they are ready, they should fall off right into your hand.
- Be aware that full production is reached after about 6 years.
- Blueberries are one of the easiest fruits to freeze. Wash, dry thoroughly, and pop them in the freezer in Tupperware or a plastic bag. You’ll have berries all winter long.
Recommended Varieties
Blueberries are partially self-fertile, so you will harvest more and larger berries by planting two or more varieties. Planting more than one variety can also extend the harvest season.
Highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum): A six-foot shrub adapted from Zone 4 to Zone 7. For withstanding cold winters, choose 'Bluecrop', 'Blueray', 'Herbert', 'Jersey', or 'Meader'. For big berries, choose 'Berkeley', 'Bluecrop', 'Blueray', 'Coville', 'Darrow', or 'Herbert'. For flavor, usually the main reason for growing your own fruit, choose 'Blueray', 'Darrow', 'Herbert', 'Ivanhoe', 'Pioneer', 'Stanley', or 'Wareham'.
Lowbush (V. angustifolium):For the coldest climates, lowbush varieties are your best bet, adapted from Zone 3 to Zone 7. These are the blueberries you find in cans on supermarket shelves. When fresh, the fruits are sweet and covered with a waxy bloom so thick that the berries appear sky blue or gray. The creeping plants, a foot or so high, are spread by underground stems, or rhizomes. They blanket the rocky upland soils of the Northeast and adjacent portions of Canada. Lowbush blueberries make a nice ornamental fruiting ground cover. Plants sold by nurseries are usually seedlings or unnamed wild plants, rather than named varieties.
Half-High: Breeders have combined qualities of highbush and lowbush blueberries into hybrids known as half-high blueberries. University of Minnesota introductions include 'Northcountry', a variety that grows 18 to 24 inches high and has excellent, mild-flavored, slightly aromatic sky-blue fruits; and 'Northblue', which grows 20 to 30 inches high and produces an abundance of dark-blue, nickel-size, somewhat tart fruits-just right for pies. 'Northland' is a half-high-3 to 4 feet-from Michigan, with bland, average-quality fruit.
Recipes
Wit & Wisdom
In Ireland, baskets of blueberries are still offered to a sweetheart in commemoration of the original fertility festival of Lammas Day, celebrated on August 1.



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Comments
By Anonymous on April 30
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My friend gave me 3 bb bushes we planted them last year I have now what looks like roots spreading and sprouting my husband says it is just grass can someone please help looked for pics of bushes but no one has posted any fresh sprouts only adult bushes
By Almanac Staff on May 20
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Blueberries have a shallow root system that spreads easily. As you've found, suckers can sprout up some distance from the bush. You'll need to remove the suckers to prevent the bush becoming too spread out.
By Anonymous on April 26
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Do blueberries need full sun or will they grow and produce berries in partial shade?
By Almanac Staff on May 20
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They thrive in full sun for maximum berry production but will tolerate partial shade, especially late in the day. Make sure that they are near a garden hose or water source. Blueberries require more water than most fruits so the surface roots do not dry out; they prefer quality (deep) watering, not just water on the surface.
By Anonymous on April 24
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My daughter lives in Washington-Seattle area-and would like to know the max distance you can plant blueberries apart and still have them cross pollinate. Thanks
By Almanac Staff on May 20
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Ideally, she'd want different varieties of blueberries within 100 feet, so bees can travel and cross pollinate.
By Anonymous
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I ordered 4 blueberry plants online. They just arrive with their bottom half in bags with dirt and the top end is just a stalk, no leaves. How do I store them until it's time to plant? There is still snow on the ground in MN.
By Almanac Staff
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The plants should have come with instructions about storing and planting.
Place the plants in a cool and dark place. Add a little water to the soil in the bags if the soil seems dry. Do not allow the roots to dry out. Plant them as soon as possible.
By Anonymous
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I live in NC just outside of Raliegh. I have an aunt who lives in Sumter SC. I dug up eight bushes from there and brought them here. She told me that I needed both kind of bushes. I dug up what she told me and then planted them when I got home. I amended the soil that we have with Black Kow manure, peat moss, and some top soil. I tilled all that in with a little 10-10-10 fertilizer. That has been two to three years ago. I have three plants now living. One of one kind and two of another. Will these work together and produce berries? This year had been the first where we saw any kind of new growth. I just added some new manure, moss, top soil around each plant and a trenched around each one to add a little more 10-10-10. Hopefully we will some action this year.
By Almanac Staff
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The bushes should do OK. Have you had your soil tested to make sure that it is acid enough?
Do not over fertilize the bushes. You can use a little blood meal or fish meal to add nitrogen. Peat moss or coffee grounds add to the acidity that the bushes need.
By Edward R. Mendez
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What web site can I go to find out what to plant in Henderson NV. Veggies,fruit.
By Almanac Staff
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Your cooperative extension service has information about local gardening.
http://www.unce.unr.edu/programs/horticulture/
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