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Growing Strawberries
Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Strawberries
Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Strawberries
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Home-grown strawberries are far more flavorful than what you’ll ever find in a grocery store. Why? The sugar in berries converts to starch soon after it’s picked. Hence, the first fruit that many gardeners grow is strawberries! Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest strawberries—as well as protect these perennial plants through the winter.
The good news is that strawberries are relatively easy to grow if you keep them in a location that gets full sun.
Strawberry plants come in three types:
- June-bearing varieties bear all at once usually over a period of three weeks. Day-length sensitive, these varieties produce buds in the autumn, flowers, and fruits the following June, and runners during the long days of summer. Although called “June-bearing” or “June-bearers,” these strawberries bear earlier than June in warmer climates.
- Everbearing varieties produce a big crop in spring, produce lightly in the summer, and then bear another crop in late summer/fall. These varieties form buds during the long days of summer and the short days of autumn. The summer-formed buds flower and fruit in autumn, and the autumn-formed buds fruit the following spring.
- Day-Neutral varieties produce fruit continuously through the season until the first frost: Insensitive to day length, these varieties produce buds, fruits, and runners continuously if temperature remains between 35° and 85°F (1° to 30°C). Production is less than that of June-bearers.
For the home garden, we recommend June-bearers. Although you will have to wait a year for fruit harvesting, it will be well worth it.
Planting
When to Plant Strawberries
- Plan to plant as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. See your local frost dates.
- Establish new plants each year to keep berry quality high each season.
- Buy disease-resistant plants from a reputable nursery, of a variety recommended in your area. Consult with the nursery you buy them from or with your state Cooperative Extension service for locally recommended varieties.
Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site
- Strawberry plants require 6-10 hours a day of direct sunlight, so choose your planting site accordingly.
- Strawberries are tolerant of different soil types, although they prefer loam. Ideally, begin working in aged manure or compost a couple months before planting. If you have clay soil, generally mix in 4 inches or more of compost, and rake the clay soil into raised mounds to further improve drainage. If your soil is sandy, simply cultivate to remove weeds, and mix in a 1-inch layer of rich compost or rotted manure.
- Soil pH should be between 5.5 and 7. If necessary, amend your soil in advance of planting. If soils in your area are naturally alkaline, it is best to grow strawberries in half-barrels or other large containers filled with compost-enriched potting soil.
- The planting site must be well-drained. Raised beds are a particularly good option for strawberry plants.
- Practice crop rotation for the most success. Do not plant in a site that recently had strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant.
How to Plant Strawberries
- Provide adequate space for sprawling. Set plants out 20 inches apart to leave room for runners and leave 4 feet between rows. Strawberries are sprawling plants. Seedlings will send out runners, or ‘daughter’ plants, which in turn will send out their own runners.
- Roots shouldn’t be longer than 8 inches when plants are set out. Trim them if necessary.
- Make planting holes deep and wide enough to accommodate the entire root system without bending it. However, don’t plant too deep! The roots should be covered, but the crown should be right at the soil surface. It is very important that you do NOT bury the crown (central growing bud) of the plant or it could rot! The leaves, flowers, and fruit must be exposed to light and fresh air.
- Water plants well at the time of planting.
- It is also possible to grow strawberries from last year’s runners. See this video to find out how.
Photo by Yuriy S./Getty Images
Check out this video to learn more about how to plant and grow strawberries.
Care
How to Grow Strawberries
- Keep the beds mulched to reduce water needs and weed invasion. Any type of mulch—from black plastic to pine straw to shredded leaves—will keep the soil moist and the plants clean. Read more about mulching.
- Be diligent about weeding. Weed by hand, especially in the first months after planting.
- Moisture is incredibly important due to shallow roots. Water adequately, about one inch per week. Strawberry plants need a lot of water when the runners and flowers are developing and again in the fall when the plants are mature.
- Fertilize with all-purpose granules for strong growth. In warm weather, berries ripen about 30 days after blossoms are fertilized.
- In the first year, pick off blossoms to discourage strawberry plants from fruiting. If not allowed to bear fruit, they will spend their food reserves on developing healthy roots. The yields will be much greater in the second year.
- Eliminate daughter plants as needed. First and second generations produce higher yields. Try to keep daughter plants spaced about 10 inches apart.
- Row covers are a good option for protecting blossoms and fruit from birds.
Winter Care of Strawberries
Strawberry plants are perennial. They are naturally cold hardy and will survive mildly freezing temperatures. So, if your area has mild winters, little care is needed.
In regions where the temperature drops into the low twenties, strawberries will be in their dormant stage. It’s best to provide some winter protection:
- When the growing season is over, mow or cut foliage down to one inch. This can be done after the first couple of frosts, or when air temps reach 20°F (-6°C).
- Mulch plants about 4 inches deep with straw, pine needles, or other organic material.
- In even colder regions, more insulating mulch should be added.
- Natural precipitation should appropriately maintain sufficient soil moisture.
- Remove mulch in early spring, after danger of frost has passed.
Pests/Diseases
- Gray Mold
- Powdery Mildew
- Japanese Beetles
- Spider Mites
- Slugs
Pest-Beating Tips
- Keeping beds weed-free and using a gritty mulch can deter slugs and bugs. Spread sand over the strawberry bed to deter slugs. (This also works well for lettuce.) Pine needles also foil slug and pill-bug damage.
- For bigger bugs such as Japanese beetles, spray your plants with puréed garlic and neem seed oil.
- When birds threaten your strawberries, position balloons with scare-eyes above the beds and use reflective Mylar bird tape to deter them.
Harvest/Storage
How to Harvest Strawberries
- Fruit is ready for harvesting 4–6 weeks after blossoming.
- Harvest only fully red (ripe) berries, and pick every three days.
- Cut by the stem; do not pull the berry or you could damage the plant.
- For June-bearer strawberries, the harvest will last up to 3 weeks. You should have an abundance of berries, depending on the variety.
How to Store Strawberries
- Store unwashed berries in the refrigerator for 3–5 days.
- Strawberries can be frozen whole for about 2 months.
- Watch our video on How to Make Strawberry Preserves!
Photo by Ben Shuchunke/Getty Images
Recommended Varieties
Try planting more than one variety. Each will respond differently to conditions, and you will have a range of different fruits to enjoy.
- ‘Northeaster’ is best suited for the northeastern US and southeastern Canada. Fruit has strong flavor and aroma.
- ‘Sable’ is hardy to zone 3, early season, great flavor.
- ‘Primetime’ is a mild-flavored, disease-resistant variety, best adapted to the Mid-Atlantic.
- ‘Cardinal’ is a good variety to try in the South.
- ‘Camarosa’ is a good variety to try on the West Coast.
- ‘Tristar’ is a day-neutral variety that’s very well-suited for hanging baskets.
Learn more about choosing and growing different strawberry varieties.
Wit & Wisdom
Why Are Strawberries Called Strawberries?
One theory is that woodland pickers strung them on pieces of straw to carry them to market. Others believe that the surface of the fruit looks as if it’s embedded with bits of straw. Still others think that the name comes from the Old English word meaning “to strew,” because the plant’s runners stray in all directions and look as if they are strewn on the ground.
The June full Moon is called the Strawberry Moon because when this Moon appeared, it signaled that it was time to start gathering ripening fruit.
Recipes
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Reader Comments
Leave a Comment
Strawberry Preserves, Broken Link :(
Hello there.. I found this Wonderful article this morning! And the link that says, 'How to make Strawberry Preserves' is broken! When I go there, it says Page not found.. I'll be checking back!
Strawberry Preserves Recipe
Hello - In response to your complaint, go to the top of the page and type in Strawberry Preserves. It'll take you to the video and have a working link for the recipe. Have a blessed day!
How long before pull up plants and start over?
Everything I have read says after plants are 3 years old they will stop producing...and just get rid of them and plant new. My strawberry plants arr now 3. They are everbearing. They have produced abundantly these past years and this year through June..then stopped. Should I pull them out and start over?
Strawberry Plants
Yes, if you’ve seen no new buds since June, it sounds like the plants have reached their limit. Everbearing don’t produce many runners, but if they do have a few, you can use those to start your next generation.
Strawberry Growing
How long do the roots of strawberries grow?
Strawberry Nutrients
What Nutrients Do Strawberries Have?
Strawberry nutritional value
Hi Tyler,
Strawberries are packed with Vitamin C (1 cup = 141% of your daily value). Vitamin C is an antioxidant necessary for immune and skin health.
Also, strawberries are also a good source of manganese (1 cup = 28% of your daily value) which is an element that is important for many processes in your body.
There are also small amounts of folate (vitamin B9), potassium, and several other vitamins and minerals.
Selecting and Preparing a Planting Site Planting Strawberries
How Deep do you Plant Strawberries exactly?
planting depth for strawberries
Tyler, That is a good question and we’ll make sure we update the article to provide more “depth,” so to speak.
The planting depth for strawberries is very important. It’s not a question of how many inches. You want to set the plant into the ground so that the roots are nicely covered with soil, but DO NOT BURY THE CROWN. The crown is the central growing bud, from which the leaves, flowers, and fruit arise. If you bury the crown, the plant could rot.
Ants
Ants have found my strawberries. How do I get rid of them?
Ants on Strawberries
If the weather’s dry enough, try placing some diatomaceous earth around your berries to prevent the ants from accessing them.
Strawberries
I tried growing some strawberries in a "strawberry pot" that was advertised on one of the tv shows. First and second year the plants actually grew and I got some nice large fruits, but the plants dried up and died. I think those "pots" are a waste. And, of course, the chipmunks didn't help -- they ate the strawberries and always beat me to the blueberries, too. : ( But I still LOVE to garden!!
Strawberries
I have a smaller greenhouse that I only grow my strawberries in. I find that after 3 years of the same plants within it I must remove and plant new. They are only productive for 3 years although they will continue to be healthy, vibrant plants. Production of fruit, however, drops off. I am in zone 7 at 5600 ft elevation and we do get frost and snow. I did nothing to cover them during the winter but early March here I removed dead leaves, trimmed things back, added compost and seaweed fertilizer and they are growing like a house a’fire! Am looking forward to an abundant crop of berries this year!
Straw mulch for new planting
I just planted new berry crowns, was wondering if i can use straw to mulch them to hold down weeds?
Straw Mulch
Yes, straw is commonly used around strawberries as mulch. Just be sure not to bury the strawberries themselves!
About Strawberries
Why is the strawberry fruit sweet?
Why does the strawberry flower become the strawberry fruit?
If you could answer these questions, that would be amazing.
mulching strawberries
Can I use grass cuttings to mulch plants? Do all the plants get cut down? I hesitate to do that !
Mulching Strawberries
Yes, you can use grass clippings to mulch strawberries, as long as the grass comes from a pesticide-free area and there are no weeds’ seeds mixed in. Straw is a better alternative, however. The important thing is that the mulch doesn’t get too compacted and hold in excessive moisture.
Depending on where in the country you are, you’ll want to wait until late October or early November to mulch. Don’t cut the plants down before mulching, and use at least 4 inches of mulch—more if you are in a place that gets particularly cold winters.
not sure about strawberries
Are you sure that it will be succes in this way
Container Strawberry Plants, Advice Please.
Hi, First year of growing container strawberry plants. They've done extremely well, large robust plants. Do I bring them inside over the winter? How to I proceed after the growing season is finished for this year. Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you!
Strawberries are one of those little pleasures in life.
Laxmi Strawberry Farm, the place to be all year round and especially at strawberry season!!! Come and spend the day picking and eating ripe organic strawberries, down in our fields!
How long before germinated strawberries can be outside?
I currently live in a townhouse with room for a tiny garden in the back. The problem is that it is on the north side and is pretty shady most of the day. The first year I was here, there was nothing but dirt in the back and it washed onto my patio (from the neighbors back yards) every time it rained. I had some strawberries in pots that had been given to me, and the managers gave me permission to plant them for erosion control. The plants themselves grow well in the shade, but since they are 'Hula berries' it is difficult for me to tell when the fruit is completely ripe. I want to renovate the beds next year and plant a different type of strawberry, (Fragaria vesca) which should be tolerable of the shade, but I will need to germinate the seeds myself, as I need over 50 plants to fill the space (spaced 12 inches apart, with an 18 inch alley) and it would be too expensive to buy them all at $4-5 per plant, which is the lowest I can find them for in my area.
I need to know how long it takes on average for strawberry seedlings started indoors to be ready for planting outside after they have germinated (I know they need 2-4 weeks of stratification and will take another 2-4 weeks to germinate, planting season for my area has typically been March - April) so I have a better idea of when to start the seeds. I have heard a recommendation saying they can be transitioned outdoors after they have their 3rd true leaf, but I have not been able to find any information as to approximately how long it takes for those leaves to develop.
when to plant strawberries
You are ambitious! Tough question probably because there are variables re specific conditions (light, soil, moisture, etc) and, perhaps, varieties. We found recommendations for starting the seeds about 8 to 10 weeks before the plants are needed (for planting) and allowing, as you suggest, up to about 3 weeks for germination, which means third leaf/transplanting stage could be a 6 to 7 week period. Some suggest hardening off the plants, too, as you may know. Timing is one thing, though; your goal, it would seem, is to have strong plants, so if the process takes a little longer—or if the plants are ready a little sooner—you should be fine.
We hope this helps.
getting 2-3 year old strawberries under control
I planted a few strawberry plants, not sure what variety, 2-3 years ago, and have pretty much left them alone because unsure how to care for them. They have spread like crazy, and are mixed in with flowers in a relatively small area in my backyard. They have produced more berries each year, but still not many, and only in early summer so I'm guessing they are June-bearing. What should I do to keep them as healthy and productive as possible? Is there any way to tell which are mother and daughter plants, or which to pull to keep things healthiest? Since they are done bearing for this year, should I cut leaves/stems back to one inch from the ground?
getting control
The first thing you need to do is weed the bed area. Decide whether you want berries or flowers where they blend together and remove what you do not want. Then improve the soil, as needed (see above), mulch (see above), and carry on (see above). Healthy plants are generally the best looking (re color, etc). See above for end of season care.
Strawberries grown in planter bag zone 4
Please- we have existing plants - my son has a small backyard deck which is used to entertain and uses containers for growing veggies, etc...
Last year we used a fabric bag made from recyclable water bottles, etc and we were not quite sure how to keep the strawberry plants over the winter (zone 4-5) in this container --- half survived... Please advice how to grow the best strawberries given this situation.. Thanks
Stroberries
why my Strawberries from my garden has not go taste, there are no sweet. your help is much appreciate. thanks
flavorless strawberries
Strawberries might lack flavor for several reasons. If the flavor is consistently drab from year to year, it could be the variety that you are growing; some are developed more high yield and tolerating processing/shipping rather than for flavor. If flavor varies each year, it could be too much or too little water, or not enough sunlight. Check your soil, too. Make sure that the bed has plenty of nutrients and the soil is slightly acidic. Sandy soil is great for providing proper drainage. Allow each plant plenty of room to grow.
Dying
After cutting a few strawberries, the newer ones started dying before pollinating.Am i cutting it wrong or is it just the seasons changing?
Strawberries
Do some strawberries take three years before they actually produce fruit? I've transplanted runners (actually kept some mother plants) 1st year hardly any flowers, next year tons of flowers but really dwarfed strawberries. This year I've added to the soil and fertilized like crazy but still really stunted fruit. I'm ready to give up. The mother plants used to produce like crazy but then the small fruit started on them as well
so I thought they were done. Do you know what's going on?
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