Imagine fragrant hyacinth, miniature daffodils, and colorful primroses brightening up your home in late winter. Learn all about forcing bulbs to flower into an early bloom to enjoy spring while there is still snow on the ground. Since bulbs contain all of the nutrients they need to grow and bloom, it’s not hard to force them.
What is “Forcing Bulbs”?
“Forcing” is speeding up the growth of a plant or bulb to make it bloom insides in a pot or container on your own schedule. Forced bulbs can add color and fragrance to your home from December through March. Some bulb varieties, like early single tulips, are easy to force. Many bulbs are now being marketed specifically for forcing and will say so on the label.
When to Force Bulbs
Outdoors, spring-flowering bulbs are planted in the ground in the autumn, as they need the winter’s cold to encourage root growth and trigger the chemical reaction that leads to flowering.
Indoors, however, you can force some bulbs to bloom with mere weeks, provided that you either buy them “pre-chilled” or your give them a required cold treatment in your refrigerator, a cold basement, or another cold space. Each plant requires a different number of chilling hours (see below). Then you simply move the bulb into a strong light, as if spring has come.
Timetable for Popular Forced Bulbs
Here’s a timetable for some popular forced bulbs, including “chill time” and then “bloom time after chilling.” If you buy pre-chilled bulbs, just look at “bloom time after chilling.”
Flower Bulb
Chill Time
Bloom Time After Chilling
Amaryllis
None
6 to 8 weeks
Crocus
8 to 15 weeks
2 to 3 weeks
Daffodils
15 to 17 weeks
2 to 3 weeks
Hycinth
11 to 14 weeks
2 to 3 weeks
Iris
13 to 15 weeks
2 to 3 weeks
Muscrai (grape hyacinth)
13 to 15 weeks
2 to 3 weeks
Paperwhites
None
3 to 5 weeks
Scilla
12 to 15 weeks
3 to 4 weeks
Snowdrops
15 weeks
2 weeks
Tulips
14 to 20 weeks
2 to 3 weeks
How to Pot the Bulbs for Chilling
Potting is the easiest part of this process and the messiest. However, the crisper drawer of your refrigerator is just fine for a handful of bulbs. Here’s how I put up bulbs in the fall for chilling and growing.
Use shallow wide containers called bulb pans that are 5 inches deep and 8 inches across.
Fill your pots half to three-quarters full of fast draining potting soil or a soilless mix. No fertilizer is necessary because your bulbs come packed with all the nutrition they need to produce this season’s flowers.
Place them in the pot, pointy end up, as close together as you like. Don’t let them touch just in case one rots it won’t spoil the rest. A full pot gives a better display and you can mix varieties in the same container if you wish.
Buy the biggest, healthiest bulbs you can find and they will reward you with the best flowers.
When planting tulips be sure the flat side of the bulb faces the pot rim because this is the side that will have the first leaf and it looks nicer draped over the edge of the pot instead of bunched up in the center.
Cover the bulbs with soil to within an inch of the rim to allow room for watering. It is okay if large bulbs such as daffodils, tulips, and hyacinths have their noses sticking up out of the soil.
Water the pots well and put them in a cold, dark, place to develop roots. An unheated basement, cold space, or inside a cold frame also works as a cool spot to keep your bulbs.
Chill for the required number of weeks listed in the chart above. Keep the soil just damp—not wet.
Check the pots once a week and water when dry.
To get our flowering bulbs to bloom indoors we have to trick them into thinking winter has come and gone and it is safe to blossom.
Storing the Pots
The key to success is finding a place to store them that is accessible, cold enough, and protected from marauding rodents. Many books recommend digging a trench, putting the pots in there, and covering them with dirt or leaves. This will work in warmer climates.
In the frozen north, however, you need to use a cold basement or unheated room that stays between 32 to 40 degrees. Most bulbs need 12 to 15 weeks of cold treatment before they are sufficiently rooted and ready to bloom. Check the bottom of the pots for roots. Even if they show some top growth but aren’t well-rooted, give them more time in storage.
How to Force the Bulbs
When they have rooted and their time is up, you can start bringing pots out of cold storage. To prevent “blasting” or shriveling of the flower buds, introduce them to the warmth of the house gradually by placing them in a cool bright spot away from any heat source for 2 to 3 weeks. Most bulbs will begin to bloom in 2 to 5 weeks.
More Tips for Forcing Bulbs
To get the most impact from a pot of bulbs, plant daffodils or other bulbs in layers. Set the bottom layer snugly into compost or potting soil and cover it with soil so that their noses are still showing. Arrange the second layer of bulbs so that they sit between the tips of the lower bulbs. Then, add more soil to cover the bulbs completely and firm it with your fingers. Be sure to leave space at the top of the pot for watering and for a layer of coarse sand to help prevent the soil from drying out.
For a weeks-long parade of beautiful bloom, start bulbs at 10-day intervals. Pot a few extra bulbs for holiday gifts.
You can get potted bulbs to bloom again next spring if you keep them well-watered and fertilized after they bloom, giving them lots of light until their foliage yellows. Then, cut back on watering. When the foliage has withered completely, store the pots in a warm, dry place for the summer and plant the bulbs in the garden in the fall.
If you chill your bulbs in a refrigerator or a root cellar, be sure to keep them away from apples and pears. Ripening fruit releases ethylene gas, which can stunt flowering and growth.
The key to success in forcing bulbs is to keep them in a cool spot out of direct sun, even when they’re in bloom (they’ll last longer). Too much warmth, especially at first, will result in long, limp leaves and shriveled buds.
If you bought some pretty flowering bulbs from the supermarket or a garden nursery, you’ll also want to keep them in a cooler area of the house and out of direct sunlight for longer bloom. Early spring plants that need cooler temperatures and damp, not wet, soil conditions to be at their best.
Adding Forced Bulbs to the Garden
An added benefit of bringing a bit of spring indoors is that you can add the forced daffodils, hyacinths, primrose, and heather to the garden if you maintain the plants after blooming.
Simply cut off the spent blooms and let the foliage live on.
Check to make sure there are holes in the bottom of the pots for good drainage. If they sit in water, in the house or outside, the roots will rot.
If you have a covered, protected area come April, the plants can be placed outside, but make sure they still receive water and the foliage looks good.
If you have brought some branches in the house, you might see small roots appearing from the sides of the stems. If that happens, you may pot up the rooted stems for new shrubs.
Did you know that you can also force branches of flowering trees and shrubs into bloom? See our article on forcing branches.
Hi Shirley, Water regularly until the foliage begins to yellow. At this point, gradually cut back on watering until the foliage withers and dies. Carefully remove the bulbs from the potting soil, allow them to dry for 1 or 2 weeks, then store the bulbs in a cool, dry location. Plant the bulbs in fall.
my some gardening with a woman who did landscaping and got some seeds from her and they are labeled hyacinth, they are not in bulb form . do you know if they are worth trying to plant?
I knocked the plant over and it fell on the rug. This broke some stems and also one whole bulb came out of the planter without the roots. If I put it in a glass jar, will it grow roots. It said to pull off the dying bulbs so I pulled them all off. Did I kill the plant?
I bought a bulb in a jar that had already bloomed , should I go ahead and put into a pot, then transfer to the ground in spring. ? Also is it to late to get other bulbs going?
Thanks for your article. I have 4 bulbs in a glass far, and I am wondering when to put them outside. They already have roots and are in glass jars with water trying to bloom already.