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Buffalo Grass: The Tough, Native Lawn That Loves the Heat

Dog sitting on Buffalo Grass Lawn
Photo Credit
Mary Key
Botanical Name
Bouteloua dactyloides
Plant Type
Grass/Lawn/Turf
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Soil pH
Varies
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Green
Hardiness Zone
3
4
5
6
7
8
9

Why Choose Buffalo Grass? A Lawn That Works With Nature, Not Against It

Samantha Johnson
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Tired of babying your lawn? Buffalo grass might just be your new best bud! This tough, native turf doesn’t mind the heat, shrugs off drought, and asks for almost nothing in return. Ready to stampede into your yard, this resilient turf asks for little and gives plenty. Here’s how to plant it, grow it, and let it thrive with ease.

What Is Buffalo Grass?

Buffalo grass (Bouteloua dactyloides) is a warm-season grass that grows well once daily temperatures stay above about 60°F. It is an example of a sod-forming grass because it spreads rapidly and easily through underground rhizomes and above-ground stolons, which contribute to forming a thick mat of grass.

This means that buffalo grass is extremely hardy and tough, thriving in full sun yet able to withstand periods of drought. Yet, for all these benefits, buffalo grass doesn’t hold up well in super high-traffic areas, so it’s not the best for a lawn that is going to see some serious play. 

Why Is It Called Buffalo Grass?

Think of the vast American plains: big skies, huge prairies, and—traditionally—bison. And think about what those bison eat. Grass, of course. And what grass do they often prefer? Aptly enough, it’s the species called buffalo grass. Native to the North American West as far south as Texas and as far north as Manitoba, buffalo grass has been filling the open spaces of the continent for millennia. Because it’s sod forming, it’s strong and resilient, and it’s an excellent choice as a grazing grass.

Buffalo grass growing naturally in a prairie.
Buffalo grass has been populating the prairies of North America for centuries. Credit: Masitohdarwin

What Does Buffalo Grass Look Like?

Buffalo grass is often thought of as somewhat rustic, coarser, and “natural”-looking grass, as opposed to some of the more common go-to lawn species.

  • It does best when kept on the long side—some people choose not to mow it shorter than 5 inches tall. For a traditional lawn look, you can mow to about 3 inches.
  • Buffalo grass also tends to grow in clusters, creating a somewhat mottled, varied appearance that is different from the manicured “golf course” appearance that appeals to some homeowners.  
  • The blades are quite wide and thick, with a slightly feathery appearance.
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Planting

Buffalo grass can be grown essentially three ways: from seed, from plugs, and from sod.

  • Sod is certainly the least labor intensive for the homeowner, though undoubtedly the most expensive option. The sod comes in large square sections of pre-grown buffalo grass that you arrange into an essentially “instant” lawn.
  • Plugs are a nice in-between option for establishing a lawn of buffalo grass. Instead of placing an entire blanket of sod, you’ll plant small “pots” of buffalo grass into a grid-like pattern, about 6 inches apart, all across the surface of your new lawn. The plugs won’t wash away, and this method takes advantage of the rhizome-and stolon-spreading tendencies of buffalo grass. With time, the plugs will spread out and fill in the lawn on their own. You’ll need a grass plugger tool, which is inexpensive and widely available. The plugs could take a couple of months to completely fill in, but it’s time well spent.
  • Of course, you can always seed your buffalo grass. This takes more time, but it’s very attainable. According to the Colorado State University Extension, you’ll need about 4 pounds of buffalo grass seed per 1,000 square feet of lawn, planted to about ½” deep. Early watering is key for good germination results! 

When to Plant

  • The Colorado State Extension suggests planting buffalo grass from spring until late July, although you should wait until the soil has reached at least 55 degrees Fahrenheit before you plant.
  • Avoid planting buffalo grass in the late summer, fall, or winter months.
  • Seeding can be done in the spring, giving it the entire growing season to develop and prepare for the dormant season. 

How to Plant

  • Follow the directions on your grass seed bag to guide you in the amount needed for the square footage of your lawn. For buffalo grass, this could be 2 to 5 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet, though you may need more or less depending on whether you’re establishing a new lawn or re-seeding an existing yard.
  • As with any type of grass, prep the lawn properly before planting. For existing lawns needing reseeding because of dead patches, plan to loosen the soil and remove any old dead grass first.
  • You can do aeration and cleanup by hand or with machines, depending on the size of your lawn.
  • Plant buffalo grass seeds ½ inch deep. If you’re planting with a seeder, just set it to the proper height.
  • Soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0 works well for buffalo grass.
  • To achieve the best results when planting plugs, always remember: the closer, the better. But this means you’ll need more plugs. You can save money by purchasing fewer plugs and spacing them farther apart; it will just take more time for your lawn to fill in (and you’ll want to keep weeds down during the wait).
  • Some people like to blend buffalo grass seed with blue grama for increased lawn density.

Growing

Buffalo grass doesn’t typically need a lot of maintenance, but there are some things you can do to achieve the best results.

  • In general, buffalo grass needs plenty of sun—6 to 8 hours per day is good—and well-drained soil. It definitely isn’t the right grass for wet, low-lying areas. Also, remember that it’s a warm-season grass, so it’s really going to need upwards of 60 degrees Fahrenheit before seed germination kicks in with vigor.
  • Don’t expect buffalo grass to thrive in those shady regions of your yard. While it’s an excellent choice for sunny areas, you may need to supplement with a shade-tolerant grass for some areas.
  • Try to control weeds while the buffalo grass works on forming its sod layer.
  • Buffalo grass really does love the heat; it’s a fine choice for warm climates.
  • “Stay off the lawn!” It’s not just a phrase for lawn connoisseurs—buffalo grass doesn’t handle foot traffic very well. You certainly don’t have to be afraid to cross it, but maybe avoid repetitive wear and tear on the grass.
  • Don’t overwater an established buffalo grass lawn—be aware that your buffalo grass might require less than half the water of other grass species.
  • Some buffalo grass lawns might benefit from a yearly dose of nitrogen fertilizer.
  • Buffalo grass tends to develop a thatch buildup—regular core aeration and thatch removal are important for the lawn’s health.
Buffalo grass after it has gone to seed is a beautiful sight. Credit: Natalie Ingle

Types

You’ll find that many buffalo grass cultivars have creative names that celebrate the fact that it’s native to the Great Plains. Some cultivars are “female only” versions and cannot be grown from seed. They must be grown from plugs or sod.

  • ‘Bison’ is an excellent grazing grass as well as a fantastic lawn option
  • ‘Cody’ is known for being an attractive variety as well as winter hardy
  • ‘Plains’ is a low-maintenance variety that only matures to 5 inches tall
  • ‘Prairie’ is a female variety
  • ‘Bowie’ has lots of good qualities, including hardiness and good density
  • ‘Prestige’ is another popular female variety, known for being hardy
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Pests/Diseases

Buffalo grass is tough and hardy, though there are a few common issues you might see:

  • Fungal problems - These can cause unsightly brown areas in your lawn. Remember not to overwater established buffalo grass; annual aeration can help with soil airflow to help protect against fungus.
  • Weeds - Buffalo grass builds a thick sod, which can help keep weeds down. But it also grows in clumps, so it’s not nearly as dense and uniform as, say, fescue or bluegrass. So weeds may indeed try to spring up in between stronger areas of buffalo grass. Keep weeds down by keeping your lawn healthy, by mowing regularly (to keep weeds from going to seed), and by even the occasional manual removal, as with dandelions. Some people use herbicides aimed at combating specific weeds, but you’ll want to be careful to avoid herbicides that will damage the buffalo grass itself.
  • Chinch bugs - In warmer climates, chinch bugs may try to slice into the blades of buffalo grass and feed off the moisture inside—creating yellow patches. You can use insecticides if the problem is severe, or you can try some natural chinch bug deterrents—like inviting ladybugs with dill, or applying diatomaceous earth.
  • Buffalo grass webworms - These pests create destructive tunnels in the sod and are fairly resistant to insecticides; replanting damaged sections of the lawn during the next growing cycle may be necessary.
  • Over maintaining - Remember, this is a plant that grows wild, unsupported, on the great open plains. Fussing too much over it—overwatering, overfertilizing—tends to create more problems than it solves. 

Wit and Wisdom

  • “The Buffalo Grass” is a song performed by country-western singer Chris LeDoux. The song explores themes of winter in the American West, longing for spring, and the return of the buffalo grass prairies.
  • Buffalo Grass: A Novel of Kansas is a traditional Western-style novel by Frank Gruber.
  • The USDA notes that buffalo grass is also a food source for whitetail deer and prairie dogs, in addition to being consumed by bison. 
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About The Author

Samantha Johnson

Samantha Johnson is an award-winning author and gardening expert with over 20 years of experience cultivating heirloom vegetables and sharing her passion for rural living. Read More from Samantha Johnson
 

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