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How to Plant and Grow Basil

sweet basil leaves as nice natural food background
Image Credit:
Jirik V/Shutterstock
Botanical Name
Ocimum basilicum
Grown as
Tender Perennial
USDA Zones
10a
10b
11a
11b
Toxicity
Non-toxic
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
1–3 feet
Spread
1–3 feet
Soil pH
Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Pink
Purple
White
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Fragrant
Attracts Butterflies
Attracts Pollinators
Deer-resistant
Rabbit-resistant
Resilience
Heat-Tolerant
Plant Type
Herbs
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Basil is one of summer’s great pleasures—and fortunately, it’s also easy to grow once the weather warms up. Give it plenty of sun, wait until the danger of frost has passed before planting outdoors, and pinch or harvest the stems regularly to keep plants bushy and productive.

Whether you start with seeds or a small transplant, basil grows happily in the garden or in containers—and even indoors with enough light. We’ll show you when and how to plant it, how to care for it through the season, and how to keep the fresh leaves coming.

Planting

When to Plant Basil

Wait until after the danger of frost has passed before planting basil outdoors. Basil loves warmth, so for best growth, wait until the soil has warmed and nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F (10°C).

If starting basil from seed, sow indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last spring frost date, then transplant seedlings outside once conditions are warm enough. University of Minnesota Extension

Don’t rush basil! Without warmth, it simply won’t take off.

If you’re…When to start
Starting basil seeds indoors6–8 weeks before the last spring frost
Planting basil outdoorsAfter frost danger has passed and nights stay above 50°F

Where to Plant Basil

Plant basil where it will get 6 to 8 hours of sun each day. In very hot climates, a little afternoon shade can help protect the leaves from heat stress. Indoors, place basil in your sunniest window or under grow lights.

One handy trick is to tuck basil beside taller plants, such as tomatoes, where it can get a little relief from the strongest afternoon sun. Basil and tomatoes are also classic garden companions, which makes them an easy pairing in the vegetable garden.

Choose a spot with well-drained soil that stays evenly moist. Basil grows happily in garden beds, raised beds, and containers. If you’re checking soil pH, aim for about 6.0 to 7.5.

Information about spacing for basil.

How to Plant Basil

  • To start basil from seed indoors, fill pots or seedling trays with seed-starting mix and sow 2 seeds per pot or cell, about ¼ inch deep. Keep the mix moist and place the trays under grow lights; a heating mat can help speed germination. Basil usually sprouts in about 5 to 7 days. Once the seedlings develop true leaves, snip off the weaker one so just one plant remains in each pot or cell.
  • To transplant basil outdoors, wait until the weather has warmed, then set seedlings or nursery plants at the same depth they were growing in their pots. Space plants about 10 to 12 inches apart.
  • Growing basil in a container? Give each plant its own pot with good drainage. A container at least 6 to 10 inches across works for a single plant, though a larger pot will dry out more slowly.
  • After planting, add a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch or compost around the plants to help hold moisture and suppress weeds.
Basil and tomato plants growing in a garden in proximity.
A tomato plant (center) growing alongside basil.

Growing

Watering

Keep basil evenly moist, but don’t let the soil stay soggy. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry; plants in containers will usually need water more often than basil growing in the ground.

During hot summer weather, check basil frequently—especially pots, which can dry out quickly. If you live in a hot area, adding mulch helps hold moisture longer and reduce how often you need to water.

Fertilizing

Basil doesn’t need heavy feeding. If growth slows or leaves look pale, feed plants lightly with a balanced liquid fertilizer during the growing season. Container-grown basil may need feeding more often because nutrients wash out with regular watering.

Pruning or Maintenance

Pinch basil regularly to keep plants bushy and producing new leaves. Once a young plant has several sets of true leaves, pinch the stem just above a pair of leaves. New branches will grow from that spot, making the plant fuller.

Continue pinching or harvesting every week or two as the plant grows. If flower buds appear, pinch them off to keep the plant focused on leaf production—unless you’d rather leave some blooms for pollinators.

That’s much easier for a beginner to understand than “pinch the leaves back to just above the second set of leaves.”

Temperatures and Seasonal Care

Basil loves warmth but is very sensitive to cold. If a late chill threatens, protect plants with a frost cover or move containers indoors. Before the first fall frost, harvest the remaining leaves—basil will not survive freezing temperatures.

In very hot weather, basil may need more frequent watering, and a little afternoon shade can help in especially hot climates. Check container-grown plants often; they can dry out much faster than plants in the ground.

tBasil growing in a pot.

Harvesting

When to Harvest Basil

Start harvesting basil once the plant is about 6 to 8 inches tall and has several healthy sets of leaves. Pick regularly through the growing season, ideally before the plant flowers, when the leaves are still tender and flavorful.

For the best flavor, harvest in the morning after the dew has dried but before the heat of the day. This is one of those small gardening habits that really does make a difference.

How to Harvest Basil

To harvest basil so it keeps growing, cut or pinch stems just above a pair of leaves. New branches will grow from that point, helping the plant stay full and productive.

Don’t be shy about harvesting basil. The more regularly you pinch and pick it, the better it tends to branch. Even if you don’t need a big handful that day, a little trimming helps keep the plant going.

Try not to remove more than about one-third of the plant at once.

How to Store Basil

For fresh basil, one of the easiest tricks is to treat it like a bouquet of flowers: place the cut stems in a glass of water at room temperature.

Basil can be surprisingly fussy about the cold, so the refrigerator is not always its friend; the leaves may darken if they get too chilled.

For longer storage, freeze whole or chopped leaves in airtight containers, or freeze chopped basil in ice cube trays with a little water or oil. Freezing is especially handy when the plants suddenly seem to be producing more basil than you know what to do with.

Basil can also be dried in a dehydrator or on drying racks. Once the leaves are completely crisp, store them in an airtight container away from heat and light.

Pests and Problems

Basil is usually easygoing, but when something goes wrong, the leaves often tell you first. Here are some of the most common signs to watch for—and what to do about them.

Common Problems

  • Leaves are wilting: Check the soil first. Basil wilts when it gets too dry, but constantly soggy soil can also damage the roots. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, and make sure excess water can drain away.
  • Leaves turn black or look scorched: Cold temperatures can blacken basil leaves, while intense heat and sun can cause wilting or scorched patches. Protect plants from chilly nights and give them a little afternoon shade during extreme heat.
  • The plant is flowering instead of making lots of leaves: Your basil is bolting. Pinch off flower buds and keep harvesting regularly to encourage more leafy growth.

Common Pests

  • Leaves look curled, distorted, or sticky: Check new growth and the undersides of leaves for aphids. Knock small infestations off with a strong spray of water and repeat as needed.
  • Leaves have large, ragged holes—or young plants seem to disappear overnight: Slugs or snails may be feeding after dark. Hand-pick them in the evening or early morning, and remove damp debris or other hiding places around the plants.

Plant Diseases

  • Leaves are turning yellow, especially on the lower part of the plant: Turn a leaf over. If you see gray or fuzzy growth underneath, basil downy mildew may be the cause. Remove badly affected plants, avoid crowding, and improve air circulation. Resistant basil varieties can also help.
  • Plants suddenly become stunted or wilt even though the soil is moist: Fusarium wilt may be responsible, especially if stems show brown streaking. Remove affected plants, clean up infected plant debris, and avoid growing susceptible basil in the same spot again. Resistant varieties are the best prevention.

Types

Types of Basil

  • Sweet basil or Genovese basil is the classic basil most gardeners know, with large green leaves and the familiar sweet, peppery flavor used in pesto and other summer dishes. It is a good all-purpose choice for garden beds and containers.
  • Cinnamon basil has green leaves with purple stems and flowers, plus a mild cinnamon-spice aroma. It grows tall and makes an attractive choice for both herb gardens and ornamental beds.
  • Purple basil has deep burgundy leaves that add striking color to containers and garden beds. Its flavor is similar to sweet basil but a little more assertive.
  • Thai basil has narrow green leaves, purple stems, and a distinctive licorice-like flavor. It also holds up well in hot weather.

See our guide to basil varieties for more choices.

Wit and Wisdom

  • Basil has a wonderful fragrance. Snip a few stems and keep them in a glass of water like cut flowers—you’ll get both fresh leaves and a little bit of summer on the windowsill.
  • Sweet basil is thought to have originated in India and other tropical parts of Asia.
  • In the traditional language of plants, basil has long been associated with love and romance. In Italy, a sprig of basil was sometimes worn as a sign of romantic interest.

Herbs

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening, so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Ashlynne</span> Thu, 07/11/2013 - 21:56
I have a huge basil plant. at first it was doing amazing. then the flowers came about, and i cut them off. now it has been looking like its trying to die. i keep it moist. i live in hawaii so i thought it was getting too much sun so we moved it to part shade. now the top of it still looks like its trying to die but i have noticed that at the bottom little sprigs of new basil and new basil leaves on the stems are growing. should i cut it back? its about three ft tall. thanks
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 07/15/2013 - 21:04
Yep, keep pinching off those flower buds. Your basil's reproduction in shutting down due to heat or humidity. You could even cut off half the plant (make some pesto) and it should rejuvenate the basil for more growth.
<span>Lcjohnson</span> Sat, 06/29/2013 - 12:58
Yes, i live just outside of memphis, and its the end of june. Not extremely hot yet, so why is 2 1/2 month old basil already looking like its dying? Not really flowering a whole lot at all, and bottom leaves, especially, are turning a very pale, greenish yellow. Its in a north facing bed on the front of our house where sun reaches over the garden for at least 4 hours and planted next to tomatoes that are staring to do the same thing. I have been watering in the mornings, unless there is a good chance of rain. I do not get it.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 07/01/2013 - 10:17
Basil is susceptible to cold conditions, and you are effectively chilling it by planting in a north-facing bed. Ditto for your tomatoes. Basil and tomatoes need full sun. Four hours is not enough; 6 (aka"part sun") is sometimes acceptable but they really need 8 hours or more, or "full sun." It's not just the "light" effect of the Sun that they need; "full sun" not only casts light but the Sun warms the soil. By watering when they can not dry out due to low sunlight/warmth, the plants are, essentially, drowning. Basil and tomatoes prefer full sun, well-draining soil, and appropriate pH. If there is any way you can plant or pot in a south-facing spot you would probably be more successful.
<span>Checker</span> Fri, 06/28/2013 - 19:44
I'm growing two plants outdoors along with tomato plants. The leaves on my basil plants have a distinctly yellow look to them. I'm clueless as to what this means or what to do about it. Any help would be greatly appreciated - Thank you!
<span>Denise Rosado</span> Thu, 07/25/2013 - 22:32
get them out of there, sweet basil doesn't do well with other plants, re-reroot them elsewhere
<span>Cheryl Hollandsworth</span> Sun, 06/23/2013 - 17:42
I live in Arizona where the summers are HOT HOT HOT!. I mean, 110-120 is the norm in the summer months. I have been trying to grow basil in planters for the past few months and nothing I do seems to work. Within a few weeks, the plants are shriveled and dead. We've tried putting them in full sun, but the sun destroyed them; and we've tried putting them on our covered patio so they get the heat but not necessarily the sun but then they shrivel and the leaves turn black. Unfortunately, I do not have a place in my house where I could put them either. We're trying again and we want to figure out what we're doing wrong. I bought 3 healthy sweet basil from my local nursery and will be transplanting them today. We did put them outside in the full sun earlier for about an hour but then some of the leaves started turning black so we brought them back inside. If you have any ideas/suggestions/tips, it would be greatly appreciated. Please and thank you.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 06/24/2013 - 16:16
In such hot weather, we might start the basil in the spring outside. When it starts to get hot (around June) -- after the basil plant is firmly established -- you could move it to a covered patio with shade and indirect light and it should still do fine. Water every day!
<span>Robert Gardener</span> Sun, 05/26/2013 - 23:38
I have about 15 basil spouted up. I am confused about when I should pinch it first. They are about 2 inches tall, and there are flat leaves on it. There are two tiny little leaves (with the line down the center) growing. Should I pinch those off? If not, how long should I wait before I do any pinching?
<span>Cynere</span> Mon, 06/17/2013 - 13:42
The leaves with the lines are the first two "true leaves". The flat leaves below them are called seed leaves, these will fall off soon on their own. Do not pinch your basil just yet, they will be stunted as their first true leaves are important. According to the instructions, "After the seedlings have their first six leaves, prune to above the second set." This means you should start pinching your basil only after they have 6 leaves with lines. Then only prune 2 leaves off. From that spot, two new branches will appear with two leaves of their own. You should only prune 1/3 of the plant at a time.