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Planting and Growing Carrots

clean carrots on a wooden table
Image Credit:
Popidar/Shutterstock
Botanical Name
Daucus carota subsp. sativus
Grown as
Biennial
Toxicity
Non-toxic
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
1–3 feet
Spread
Under 1 foot
Soil pH
Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
White
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Resilience
Cold Hardy
Plant Type
Vegetables
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Ever pulled a funky-shaped carrot out of the ground and loved it anyway? That’s the charm of homegrown carrots—quirky, colorful, and way sweeter than store-bought! With just the right soil (yes, that’s the secret), you can grow juicy, crunchy carrots in all shapes and shades. 

Whether you’re dreaming of classic orange or curious about purple or round varieties, here’s how to make your carrot patch thrive from seed to harvest.

Buy Seeds Now

Carrots grown in the garden taste more flavorful, fresher, and juicier because the sugar that makes a carrot sweet begins to be replaced by fiber as it ages in grocery stores. Another reason to grow carrots in the garden is that there are so many more varieties to try, from Belgian whites to Purple Dragon to Parisian heirlooms that are round! 

Don’t expect to get perfectly straight “grocery store” carrots in the garden, especially if your soil isn’t loose, well-draining, and sandy or loamy. Your carrots will still taste better, whatever their shape!

Stunted carrots in a gloved hand in the garden
Misshapen carrots can be caused by heavy, compacted, overly enriched soil.

Planting

When to Plant Carrots

  • Carrot seeds can be sown about 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost date. Find your local frost dates here. Ideally, you want the soil to have dried out and warmed up a little after the winter.
    • Seeds germinate after the soil temperature is at least 40°F and germinate best at 55° to 65°F, not exceeding 75°F. High summer temperatures reduce growth, decrease quality, and cause bitter or “off” flavors to develop.
  • For a fall harvest, sow seeds in mid- to late summer—starting about 10 weeks before your first fall frost.

Where to Plant Carrots

Carrots prefer sunny locations (6 to 10 hours of sun). The soil itself should be free-draining; this is one of the few crops benefiting from sandier soils. You don’t want your soil to be too rich either, or the carrots can’t reach down!

If your garden is made of rugged, clayey soil, grow carrots in containers or raised beds at least 8 inches to 12 inches high. See our tips on container gardening below!

How to Plant Carrots

  • Prepare the site by tilling to a depth of 10 inches. We recommend double-digging to be certain. Make sure there are no rocks, stones, or even soil clumps. Amend soil with compost and 6 inches of sandy topsoil if your soil isn’t loose and airy.
  • We recommend sowing seeds directly in the garden (or wherever you plan to grow them) rather than transplanting. Carrots do not like to have their roots disturbed.
  • Sow 1/4 inch deep, 2 to 3 inches apart in rows 1 foot apart.
    • Tip: Try to distribute seeds in an even fashion so that seeds don’t grow together. The seeds are pretty tiny, and it’s very easy to sow them too thickly. An easy tip is to mix the seeds with fine sand to spread the seeds out. You can then sow pinches of your sand-seed mix instead. Then, just cover the seeds over.
  • Keep the soil moist with frequent, shallow watering. For small carrot seeds to germinate, the soil mustn’t form a hard crust on top; cover with a layer of fine sand, vermiculite, or compost to prevent a crust from forming. (If you put your finger in the ground, the soil should be moist but not wet to your middle knuckle.)
  • Carrots are sometimes slow to germinate. They require 14 to 21 days to emerge, so don’t panic if your carrots don’t appear immediately!
  • Planting radishes with carrots helps minimize the crusting problem and helps you keep track of where the carrot seeds were planted. Sow quick-germinating radish seeds between carrot rows. The radishes will grow quickly, and by the time the carrots really start to grow, they can be harvested.
  • For a continued harvest, plant carrots every 4 weeks through midsummer.

Growing Carrots in Containers

You can also grow carrots in containers! It is important to grow carrots in a container that is deep enough for them at maturity. For baby or dwarf carrots, a 6- to 8-inch-deep container is needed. Standard carrots need a depth of at least 12 inches, if necessary, to accommodate a particular variety’s length. Carrots are a cool-season crop usually grown in the spring; seeds can be sown 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost. 

Prepare a loose, well-draining potting mix with a portion of compost or organic matter. Add a handful of bonemeal; it contains phosphorus, which benefits root crops. Also, add low-nitrogen fertilizer, per the package directions, based on the container size. Water the soil evenly to moisten. Sow the seeds about a 1⁄2 inch apart and 1⁄4 inch deep. (Carrot seeds are tiny and thus difficult to drop individually; pelleted seeds or seed-taped ones are good alternative means.) Cover with a very light sprinkling of soil. Water gently (a handheld pump container is advised instead of a hose, the water force from which can displace the cover soil and seeds). 

Water regularly to keep the soil moist. Container soils tend to dry relatively quickly. Dry soil can promote forking (misshapen roots). 

When carrot tops are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin them to 1 1/2 to 3 inches apart, based on the carrot size at maturity. Use scissors to cut off the tops, rather than pulling seedlings and disturbing the roots. Apply a low-nitrogen fertilizer every 3 to 4 weeks, per the package directions for the size of the container.

Growing

  • Gently mulch carrots to retain moisture, speed germination, and block the sun from hitting the roots directly.
  • When seedlings are an inch tall with 3 to 4 true leaves, thin them so that they stand 3 to 4 inches apart. Snip tops with scissors instead of pulling them out to prevent damage to the fragile roots of the remaining plants.
  • Ensure carrots receive 1 inch of water per week, either through rain or watering; do not overwater carrots.
  • Weed diligently as carrots do not like struggling against weeds, but be careful not to disturb the young carrots’ roots while doing so.
  • Fertilize 5 to 6 weeks after sowing (We recommend a low-nitrogen fertilizer as excess nitrogen in the soil promotes top, or foliage, growth—not roots). Learn more about how and when to fertilize your vegetables.

Harvesting

How and When to Harvest Carrots

How do you know when your carrots are ready? Have a little root around and check the approximate width of the roots by looking at the neck of the root. The first roots should be ready as soon as 2 months from sowing.

  • Generally, the smaller the carrot, the better the taste. Carrots should be about as wide as your thumb or at least ½ of an inch in diameter.
  • Younger and shallower roots should come away easily enough simply by gripping them firmly at the base of the foliage. It often helps to push down on the root first and then twist it as you gently pull upwards.
  • Larger, longer roots—particularly those of main-crop carrots that are sown for winter eating—may need to be eased up with the help of a fork.
  • Harvest in stages—or as roots reach full size. In this way, you’ll stagger your harvest over many weeks.
  • If you’re growing carrots in the spring and early summer, harvest before daily temperatures get too hot, as the heat can cause carrot roots to grow fibrous.
  • If you are harvesting in the fall, carrots taste much better after one or more frosts. (A frost encourages the plant to start storing energy—sugars—in its root for later use.) Following the first hard frost in the fall, cover carrot tops with an 18-inch layer of shredded leaves to preserve them for harvesting later.
  • Note: Carrots are biennials. If you fail to harvest and leave the carrots in the ground, the tops will flower and produce seeds next year.
dirty carrots straight from the garden harvest
Scrub off the dirt and remove the tops before storing carrots!

How Do You Store Fresh Carrots?

  • To store freshly harvested carrots, twist or cut off all but 1/2 inch of the tops, scrub off any dirt under cold running water, and air-dry. Seal in airtight plastic bags and refrigerate. If you simply put fresh carrots in the refrigerator, they’ll go limp in a few hours.
  • You may leave mature carrots in the soil for temporary storage if the ground does not freeze and pests aren’t a problem.
  • Carrots can also be stored in tubs of moist sand or dry sawdust in a cool, dry area.

Pests and Problems

Carrot Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
Aster Yellow DiseaseBacteriaShortened and discolored carrot tops and thin, hairy roots; bitter tasteSpread by pests as they feed from plant to plant. Keep weeds down and invest in a control plan for pests such as leafhoppers. This disease has the ability to overwinter.
Black (Itersonilia) cankerFungusShallow, reddish brown/purple/black cankers form on crown and/or shoulder of carrots; small, orange-brown spots on leaves may have green halos; flowers rotChoose resistant varieties; cover shoulders of carrots with soil; rotate crops
Carrot rust fliesInsectWilted/stunted plants; tunnels with rust-color excrement in roots of carrot-family crops; root rotMonitor adults with yellow sticky traps; use row covers; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; destroy crop residue; rotate crops
Flea beetlesInsectNumerous tiny holes in leavesUse row covers; mulch heavily; add native plants to invite beneficial insects
LeafhoppersInsectWhite shed skins on leaf undersides (from nymph molting); stippling (many tiny spots) on leaves; “hopperburn” (leaves yellow/brown, curled, or stunted); reduced yieldKnock nymphs off leaf undersides with strong spray of water; use row covers; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; weed; destroy crop residue
Root-knot nematodesInsectTypically, roots “knotty” or galled; plants stunted/yellow/wilted; roots forked/pimpledDestroy crop residue, including roots; choose resistant varieties; solarize soil; add aged manure/compost; disinfect tools; till in autumn; rotate crops
WirewormsInsectSeeds hollowed; seedlings severed; stunting/wilting; roots eaten; tubers/ bulbs boredTrap by digging 2- to 4-inch-deep holes every 3 to 10 feet, fill with mix of germinating beans/corn/peas or potato sections as bait, cover with soil or a board, in 1 week uncover and kill collected wireworms; sow seeds in warm soil for quick germination; provide good drainage; remove plant debris; rotate crops

Types

Carrots come in a rainbow of colors, sizes, and shapes.

  • ‘Bolero’: slightly tapered; 7 to 8 inches; resists most leaf pests and blights
  • ‘Danvers’: classic heirloom; 6 to 8 inches long, that tapers at the end and has a rich, dark orange color; suited to heavy soil
  • ‘Little Finger’: heirloom; a small Nantes type of carrot only 4 inches long and 1 inch thick; good for containers
  • ‘Nantes’: cylindrical (not tapered); 6 to 7 inches; exceptionally sweet; crisp texture
  • ‘Thumberline’: heirloom; round carrot, good for clumpy or clayey soil and containers
  • For unusual colors, try heirloom ‘Red Cored Chantenay’ and bright ‘Solar Yellow’
  • ‘Adelaide’: true baby carrot; miniature Nantes type (cylindrical, smooth, nearly same diameter from end to end; blunt, not pointed tip); mature at 3 to 4 inches
  • ‘Bambino’: harvest at 4 inches; dwarf tops; cylindrical, blunt roots; good for canning and pickling
  • ‘Little Finger’: heirloom; miniature Nantes type; 3 to 4 inches long; good for canning and pickling
  • ‘Romance’: Nantes type; 6 to 7 inches long, with tapered root; orange roots brighten after washing
  • ‘Romeo’: 1- to 1 1/2-inch rounds; smooth skin, needs no peeling
  • Thumbelina’: heirloom; 1- to 2-inch rounds; needs no peeling
  • ‘Touchon’: heirloom; considered best of the Nantes type; quick to mature; 6 inches long

Carrots of many colors arranged in a colorwheel

Wit and Wisdom

  • The carrot (Daucus carota ssp. sativus) is a root vegetable in the Umbelliferae family. Today’s cultivars are all domesticated forms of the wild carrot, Daucus carota, native to Europe and Southwestern Asia. The wild carrot has a more woody texture and is less palatable. 
  • The orange carrot is relatively new to gardens and kitchens: It first appeared in the Netherlands in the 17th century. Carrots did not become popular in the United States until after World War I, when soldiers returning from Europe brought seeds and stories of having eaten and enjoyed them.
  • Not all carrots are orange; varieties vary in color from purple to white, and some are resistant to diseases and pests.
  • Long-lasting carrots are rich in sugar and a great source of vitamins and carotene.
  • The Irish called carrots “underground honey” due to the sweetness of these root vegetables.
  • Carrots were the first vegetable to be canned commercially. Learn how to can carrots yourself!
  • Wild carrot, aka Queen Anne’s lace, is native to Europe and Asia and is an invasive species in North America. Its long taproots smell like carrots.
  • Feathery green carrot tops were once used to decorate women’s hats and sleeves.

Vegetables

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Courtney Montgomery</span> Thu, 10/22/2015 - 14:57
Hi I need some help I attempted to grow carrots in containers last year after 68 days no carrots I did chalk it up to gardener error as I transplanted them which is a no no.I recently decided to have a go at carrots again the chantenay variety. I took a pot added dirt sowed my seed in the dirt on Sept. 17the the germinated I thinned them they have come up beautifully. But the stems are still small they are growing in height. But I am worried they are not going to produce any carrots.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 10/26/2015 - 11:01

Hi Courtney,

Not knowing where you live you may have planted the carrots too late in the season. They need 65 days to maturity in spring/summer and 126 days in fall/winter because of shorter days and less sunlight.

If the temps. are mild and you don't have freezing weather for you may still get some carrots.

 <span>Jack Ehlers</span> Wed, 09/09/2015 - 08:19
I live in zone 9B. I have a "Black Beauty eggplant in a 4'x8' box and the eggplant has a 4' diameter of canopy. I would like to plant some carrot under the eggplant canopy for fall crop. Will carrots survive in partial shade for a fall crop?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 09/10/2015 - 15:48

Carrots need about 6 to 8 hours of sunlight each day. If the area provides that, you might be OK as far as light. Another concern, however, is root space. Eggplants and longer carrots may be competing for space in the soil. If you'd like to try growing carrots, the small round type might do better because they don't take up as much space in the ground.

 <span>Liz Berry</span> Fri, 07/17/2015 - 13:42
What does it mean when your carrots flower. Have I left them in the ground too long? Will they still taste fine?
<span>Micheal(In Kenya)</span> Sat, 06/27/2015 - 10:04
i planted carrots in rainy season which germinated well. but a week later, i discovered that the population of my carrots was reducing. what could be the problem?
<span>Bill</span> Tue, 03/29/2016 - 08:41
A wascly wabbit?
<span>Ryan M - St. Louis</span> Sun, 06/07/2015 - 19:44
I have been trying to grow carrots for two years in a row. The carrots start out fine, but when it is time for harvesting, the carrots do not get very bulky. The top half of the carrot is about an inch wide, but the rest of the carrot is one thin root that extends about 3 or 4 inches with no bulk at all. I do have the correct color in the top half of the carrot, just not a lot of bulk in the top half and no bulk in the bottom half. The article above states carrots like sandy soil. Should I mix some sand in the portion of my garden where I grow my carrots? I also have not used any fertilizer. What would you recommend? Any suggestions are appreciated.
<span>Victoriabc</span> Sat, 08/15/2015 - 18:33
Double dig the soil and add lots of organic compost so it is loose and easy to grow. When you plant the seeds, water with fertilizer and then DO NOT WATER until the seeds sprout. You want big tap roots that have to go deep to find water. I did this for the first time this year and I finally have great big carrots that are longer than 1" long!
<span>Rockaz</span> Wed, 07/22/2015 - 14:15
I think you should try using fertilizers and as well as planting legumes plants in between your carrots this will add up nitrogen in the soil.