Pretty petunias are popular because of their exceptionally long flowering period. As with most annuals, they get leggy by midsummer, so you’ll want to prune the shoots back by half. See more tips on planting and caring for petunias to keep them blooming.
Petunias are treated as annuals in most areas but can be grown as tender perennials in Zones 9 to 11. The flowers come in many colors and patterns and bloom from spring until frost!
These colorful annuals can really add pop to a front lawn and are often used in borders, containers, hanging baskets, or even as seasonal ground covers. Some even have a slight fragrance. Their height can vary from 6 inches to 18 inches, and they can spread along the ground anywhere from 18 inches to 4 feet.
Planting
When to Plant Petunias
- It’s easiest to buy young plants from a nursery that sells petunias in flats. Look for plants that are short and compact. Leggy petunias with tons of flowers already won’t settle in as fast.
- If you want to grow petunias from seed, start the seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before your last spring frost date. (See your local frost dates.)
- Plant young petunias outdoors after your last spring frost date, but keep a close eye on the weather forecast and protect young plants from late frosts.
Where to Plant Petunias
Petunias need full sun, or they will become spindly. They don’t tend to flower well in shade.
The soil should drain well and not stay overly wet, especially in containers. It should also be moderately fertile to promote the best growth. Amend poor soil with finished compost prior to planting.
How to Plant Petunias
- Petunia seeds are very small (dust-like!) and need lots of light in order to germinate.
- When the young plants have three leaves, plant them outside.
- Space the plants about 1 foot apart.
- If you’re planting petunias in containers, use a container potting mix that will drain well.
Types
Types of Petunias
Petunias are divided into different groups, mainly based on flower size:
- Multiflora petunias are the most durable and prolific. They have smaller but more abundant flowers and are ideal for summer bedding or in a mixed border (because they are more tolerant to wet weather).
- Grandiflora petunias have very large flowers and are best grown in containers or hanging baskets (because they are more susceptible to rain damage). These large petunias often do not fare as well in the south because they’re prone to rot during humid, hot summers.
- Floribundas: Floribundas are intermediate between the grandiflora and multiflora groups. Like the multiflora varieties, they are free-flowering and produce medium-sized blooms.
- Millifloras: Milliflora petunias are much smaller than any other petunias on the market. The flowers are only 1 to 1½ inches wide, but they are prolific and last all season!
- Spreading or Trailing Petunias: These are low-growing and can spread as much as 3 to 4 feet. Because the flowers form along the entire length of each stem, they form a beautiful, colorful ground cover. They can be used in window boxes or hanging baskets.
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Comments
Usually petunias shrivel because they are too wet. If you just bought the plants, they may already have root rot. You can gentle remove the root ball take a look. Petunias thrive on neglect and do not like wet feet.
Our sources suggest that it's best to dry them first, Betty. Good luck—
It probably isn't a tick. We're guessing some type of beetle. Google "jumping flea beetle" and "Japanese Beetle." It may be the latter as the Japanese Beetle loves roses. You can manage the flea beetle with organic insecticides. The Japanese beetle has to be caught early before they emerge and then handpicked and dropped in soapy water; they are difficult to manage once the plant is infested. Healthy plants that are growing in a clean, healthy soil appear to be less attractive to them.
Welcome, Aslam!
A true beginner would go buy more seedlings; you are an advanced beginner!
Collect and dry the seeds. Spread them widely on a container of damp potting soil (very light material) or sphaghum moss. Mist water on them in a fine spray, then press them gently into the medium. Cover the container with clear plastic and put it in a warm (70 to 85°F), bright (not direct sunlight) place for 7 to 10 days, or until the seeds sprout. Remove the covering and place the container in a slightly cooler, still bright place. Ideally, if you have it, the best place is 4 to 6 inches below a florescent light, with the light on for 16 to 18 hours per day. When the plants develop true leaves, transplant them into seedling trays and fertilize every two weeks with a dliuted mixture. Harden them off by putting them outside on warm, sunny days.
We hope this helps. Let us know how you do!
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Hi, Linda,
While outside these plants need about 8 hours of sunlight, indoors, under a grow light, they require more: 16 to 18 hours daily at a height of 4 to 6 inches.
Best wishes—