Lawn Care Tips: Fertilizing, Seeding, Weeding, Mowing

The Basics of Growing a Healthy, Low-Maintenance Lawn

March 29, 2019
Green grass

Do you have a healthy lawn? Here are over 10 secrets to lawn care for a more stress-tolerant, vigorous turf. For example, mowing too short actually reduces the vigor of the plants by reducing their ability to manufacture food. The more you let nature do the work for you, the easier it will be to care for your lawn.

The Great Lawn Debate

There is no substitute for grass as a recreational surface; it’s superior to concrete, and plays a positive environmental role by moderating temperatures and purifying air.

That said, there is a “dark side” to lawns, which largely stems from the overuse of synthetic chemicals. The U.S. has applied more synthetic chemical fertilizers on its lawns than India applies on all its food crops, and urban and suburban residents are now subjected to more pesticide exposure than their rural counterparts. 

A Healthy Lawn Philosophy

Unsurprisingly, lawns have been around for centuries without the crutch of heavy chemical use. Before World War II, splendid lawns (and gardens) on estates and homes in the United States were common; many of the lawns of Europe do not use chemicals.  

When you consider our recommendations below, look for ways to reduce your dependence on the chemical industry. Grass doesn’t need to glow green. 

Top 5 Lawn Care Tips:

  1. Simply cut your lawn without a bag and leave the clippings to feed the lawn. Or better yet, use an up-to-date mulching mower to grind the grass up to usable proportions for your lawns. 
  2. Use ground manure in light and regular amounts, since just leaving the clippings does not provide enough of the major and micro-nutrients to keep a lawn at peak condition. See more below.
  3. If you use regular fertilizer, be aware that there are always organic options but also look for ways to cut back overall (see tips below). Think of what you put on the lawn as going directly into your drinking water and you will use a lot less chemicals.
  4. Consider mixing low-growing flowering plants such as red and white clover (which pollinators love) with your grass seed since clover is a nitrogen fixer. See our article on clover
  5. Consider if some parts of your lawn could be converted to meadows.

Soil Preparation

Always pay attention to the soil! Your lawn needs nourishment. 

  • If you are planting new turf grass, work compost about 2 to 3 inches into the soil. If possible, use manure-based compost. Manure is a natural fertilizer that adds nutrients to the soil. Because lawns are hungry for nitrogen that encourages green growth, manure that’s rich in nitrogen is the best choice for them. Or, top-dress your existing lawn with ¼ inch manure-rich compost.
  • In the spring, remove the built up thatch or dead grass with a rake to help moisture and oxygen reach down to the grasses’ roots.
  • If you soil is hard and compacted, aerate (poke holes in) the lawn to loosen up soil and allow oxygen, water, and nutrients to flow. You can use aeration shoes, a pitchfork, or a power aeration tool available at rental shops.
  • Prepare flower beds. Especially if you have hard-packed soil, a power cultivator like this one from Echo which will loosen the soil in no time. Dig holes for new plants.

Mowing Your Lawn

Mowing your lawn properly makes a big difference in its health. Did you know that there is a direct relationship between cutting height and the amount of roots a grass plant can maintain? Whether you use a push mower, power mower, or powerful new electric lawn mowers, here are 5 tips to avoid mowing mistakes.

  • Do NOT mow too short. You may think you are saving time, but you will actually end up with a uglier lawn than if you cut to the proper length. A general rule of thumb is not to remove more than one-third of the total leaf surface when mowing your lawn. Continual scalping reduces turf density and provides opportunities for weeds. Following the one-third rule encourages the maximum turf density.
  • Earlier recommendations for a cutting height of 1.5 inches were common. Current standards suggest between 2 and 3.75 inches. Higher-cut lawn grasses are more stress tolerant. This is especially important during the summer heat period. Taller grass plants with higher density have a profound shading effect on the soil surface, which reduces germination of weed seeds, particularly crabgrass. This is an excellent way to reduce herbicide use.
  • Mow the lawn when the grass is dry and keep the blades sharp to reduce tearing the grass blades (which also invites disease).
  • Cut your lawn without a bag and leave the clippings to feed the lawn (or, use a mulching mower). Clippings are all the fertilizer some lawns need (along with manure dressing). Allow clippings to stay on the lawn to filter down to the soil, decompose, and recycle nutrients back to the roots. The shorter the clippings, the more quickly they will decompose into the soil.
  • If you have flower beds or areas that the mower can’t reach, use a grass trimmer but be very careful.  Don’t use a trimmer to cut grass against tree trunks. It could slice into the bark, which could expose the tree to disease and pests. Also, it’s very easy to accidentally trim off your garden flowers!

Fertilizing Your Lawn

  • Top-dress your existing lawn with ¼ inch manure-rich compost about once a month during the growing season. Manure can help keep your lawn healthy with its high nitrogen and phosphorus content. This will make your soil more porous, drain better, and prevent root rot. 
  • If manure is not available, then use minimally processed sewage, another natural form of fertilizer (in most cases there is no other use for the substance and there is a lot of it produced naturally on a regular basis!).
  • If you use a regular chemical fertilizer or an organic fertilizer, regularly apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer with a lawn spreader. However, the best time to fertilize substantially is actually in the late fall before the ground freezes. Many studies show that spring feedings, as promoted by fertilizer manufacturers, aren’t really that helpful if you’ve fertilized in the fall. A slow-release fertilizer allows the grass to store carbohydrates to provide energy for root and shoot growth the following spring. It also helps prevent disease and injury over the winter. 
  • If you’re going to fertilize in spring, wait until late spring to restore the carbohydrate reserves in the roots which may be running low. Apply lightly.
  • Late summer is a good time to apply a second application. Make sure it is light! It’s just there to get your grasses to fall when you will give them a substantial feeding.

Overseeding Your Lawn

  • If you have bare patches, it’s best to overseed in late fall. Use a mix of seed that includes slow-growing or low-growing grasses.
  • Fine-leaf fescue grasses have low water and fertility requirements and grow well in places with a mild summer climate. Combine the fescues with a low-maintenance Kentucky bluegrass like ‘Park’, ‘Kenblue’, or ‘South Dakota Common’. Contact your local cooperative extension to see which type of lawn grows best in your area.

Watering Your Lawn

  • Water your lawn early in the morning or in the evening.
  • Water long enough to allow the water to soak in below the root zone. Shallow watering encourages shallow root growth (and thus, weak grass) and weeds. It will take about an inch of water to penetrate 6 to 8 inches into the soil. Set out shallow cans in the sprinkler area to measure.
  • Don’t overwater. Make the lawn seek its own source of water, building longer, sturdier roots. Cut back on water especially in midsummer to let the lawn go dormant, strengthening it for fall and winter.
  • Excess water leaches away nutrients and encourages insects. Deep waterings are better for the lawn than light waterings.
  • During a drought, let the grass grow longer between mowings, and reduce fertilizer use.

Weeding Your Lawn

  • As with fertilizing, keep in mind that there are many weed products that can be considered organic and natural.
  • With weeds, you truly want to take preventative action rather than wait until they appear in your lawn. Stop weeds from gaining a root hold in your lawn before they even germinate by applying a pre-emergent herbicide in the late fall. This method prevents weed seeds (especially crabgrass) from even germinating. 
  • If the weeds are just unbearable in the spring, you can apply a post-emergent lawn weed preventer that covers both grassy weeds (e.g., crabgrass) and broadleaf weeds (e.g., dandelions).
  • Still, we prefer that you learn to live with a not-so-perfectly-perfect lawn. A slightly wild lawn lets volunteer grasses, wildflowers, herbs, and even wild strawberries grow, adding color and variety to your landscape. Clover grows low to the ground and smells lovely after it’s been cut, and it often stays green after the rest of lawn has turned brown; dandelion greens taste great in a salad (if you’re not applying chemical fertilizers!).
  • Adding mulch helps with weed control.

Do you have any other lawn care tips? Leave them in the comments below!

See 10 tips on for spring yard cleanup.


Reader Comments

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Great Post

Thank you for sharing the basis of lawn care. It's very clear and succint. I will share with my customers and make sure to reference your blog!

Jan from

A very thorough list

Hi we have recently started our lawn care business and came across your this article.

I love how thorough your article is. One can read it and get the main important points to taking care of your lawn and the article is very to the point and easy to digest. Not everyone wants to hire a company so it is nice you have given us the important points of lawn care so people who do it themselves can give their lawn informed care.

I especially liked that you pointed out it is good to fertilize in late spring as it allows the grass to establish it's roots before putting energy into leaf growth. I think people can sometimes forget to mention that when giving lawn care tips.

Thank you very much for the article. Keep up the good work.

That's a wonderful list of

That's a wonderful list of lawn care tips. Now a days, people are very much fond of lawn and landscapes. Having knowledge regarding the basic lawn care fertilizing is a must. Thanks for sharing these basic lawn care tips here. It is going to be very useful.

Lawn care fertilizing

Awesome tips for seeding in my lawns. We lay our turf over the old one and later we realized it was a big mistake. So we buy whole high-quality buffalo Turf Gold Coast and installed which looks better with proper care. Here I got great tips to seeding lawn. Thanks for sharing.

yard TLC

our yard can use some help. We(Dad and I) live in Cen Ind and our yard could use some help. It is thin in spots and we are just trying to thicken it up. Our family moved into our current residence in '92 and even then, it could have used a little TLC, but now....yeahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

Which fruits grow year-round?

For a humid climate in the Southern United States, what are recommendations for fruit and vegetables that can grow throughout the year with little effort?

- DD,

Low-Effort Plants

The Editors's picture

Because the winters are rather mild in the southern U.S., it’s very common for folks to have two plantings per year: one in late winter and another in late summer. Okra, peppers, eggplants, and tomatoes are all easy to grow, produce well, and persist through the growing season. Check out our Planting Calendar to see more recommended fruit and vegetables for your area!

Best time to mow onions

What is the best days to mow onions to stop them from growing I used the dates in the almanac last year and it worked but ain’t find them for 2018 I live in Tennessee

Mow to Discourage Growth

The Editors's picture

In March and April, the Best Days to Mow to Discourage Growth are March 5–7 and April 14 & 15. 


I've been getting a lot of mushrooms growing in my lawn and I have a dog and I'm afraid he's going to eat them and get sick or die, I don't know how to get rid of them does anyone know how to get rid of them keeping in mind It needs to be a pet friendly way of getting rid of them.

Getting Rid of Mushrooms

The Editors's picture

There’s not much you can do to get rid of mushrooms in your lawn aside from digging the area up and replacing the soil. The best practice would be to remove the mushrooms by hand or with your lawnmower—preferably one with a bag attachment, so that you don’t spread mushroom chunks and spores all over your lawn. Then, you can try adding a fast-release, nitrogen-heavy, and pet-safe fertilizer to the area, which will help to speed up decay.

On mushrooms , a late reply ...

We too had several kinds of mushrooms -kind name in our 'lawn' on various times of year . My first reaction was to get rid of it ; luckily my hubby reminded me of the biodiversical sense of those chlorophyl-lackers /:op
Hence and since then , they only get removed together with the grass we mow . Later this year , we will relocate some fruittrees and try another approach on 'lawn' : we leave a round spot in the middle of our garden on which flowers , vegetables and also a nice 'rug' of soft green grass will grow : good to look at the clouds on a dry day . The part of the garden where the fruittrees will grow , we 'll let the grass grow but mow a path through it .
Now did i make myself clear to y'all ;op

Have a sunny (if only in mind)day


grass seed

I tilled my yard last spring in hopes of getting a nice lawn, I used Kentuckey blue grass seed but all I got was dirt and weeds. I'm going to try again and I'm thinking of using Pennington PA.grass seed or Scotts PA. grass seed unless some one out there has a better recommendation because I don't want to waste my money and get the same results as last season, any help would be appreciated thanks.

Basic Lawn Care

Your article is very generic & invites speculation about seeding & mowing. In the NE, during the rainy April-May period, aeration is normally done in the early autumn when the soil is firm. Also, the lawn is cut high (4-5") so that it can be mulched; any lower & the cut grass stifles the remaining lawn. Once Mother Nature settles down in June-July, the lawn can successfully be cut at 3-4".

I ran over a toad the other

I ran over a toad the other day while mowing and last year my husband ripped a leg off a toad with the weedeater, I really hate the need to mow and the intense desire of humans to have a perfect manicured lawn. What I mean to say I guess is watch out for the little creatures hiding everywhere.

The Little Critters

Very much agree with Colleen (May 8 2016). We live in a village, must mow per ordinance. It is darn hard when we harm one of the little critters we share space with. We do try to be very careful, and are continuing to enlarge flower gardens so there is less lawn to mow. Always send out prayers of protection for the critters, whom we often name.

When is the best time

When is the best time according to the Almanac, to plant winter rye grass in North Texas?

Hi, Hiandlo: A good rule of

The Editors's picture

Hi, Hiandlo: A good rule of thumb for winter rye is 2 weeks before the first frost. In Lubbock, for example, the first frost usually arrives around Nov. 1, so you would count backward from there. Good luck!

how about with my

how about with my Bermuda grass i live in Georgia..any TIP would be helpful...........................please

Here's a whole bunch of tips

The Editors's picture

Here's a whole bunch of tips on growing Bermuda grass in Georgia, courtesy of your county extension services!

I have zoysia grass, we live

I have zoysia grass, we live in mid-florida. We are in the monht of Nov, what shd we do to maintain it. Also have a few bald spots, under a tree how can I get grass to grow in those areas?

Zoysia grass is perfect for

The Editors's picture

Zoysia grass is perfect for lawns in sunny areas. You just need to keep it watered and mow when needed. For the bald spots get grass seed that grows well in shady spots. Check with your local garden center to see what is available. Now is a good time to spread the seed.

From my experianced oak start

From my experianced oak start to sucker or sucker more when in a drout, or can't get enuff water. You can try deep watering the oak and a regular irrigation program. Also they sucker more when the soil temp is to hot. If the ground around the oak is not shaded. I recommend planting it with ground cover like vinca especially in oak groves.

I have an oak tree and the

I have an oak tree and the new shoots are competing with the grass. What can I do to minimize/stop this?

Hello, Diann, Just keep up

The Editors's picture

Hello, Diann, Just keep up with regular mowing. Mowing should keep sprouts down. The seedlings will not keep coming up. If it's a bigger problem, the best prevention is to cut off the sprout 2 to 4 inches below the soil level. Do not use herbicide or you may damage the oak. Also, be sure to rake up any acorns.