Tomato Diseases and Disorders

Tomato Woes!

January 29, 2019
Early Blight Tomato Disease
Jean Faucett/shutterstock


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I say “tomayto” and you say “tomahto” but however you say it, tomato time is here! Along with the luscious fruits that we gardeners await, we have the tomato disorders and diseases that the flesh is heir to—tomato flesh that is.

Blossom-End Rot

In my area, we have had enough rainfall this summer so no problems with blossom-end rot this year. This usually begins as a sunken spot on the blossom end of the fruit which turns black and leathery as it grows larger. Often you don’t notice it until you go to pick the tomato and find that the bottom half has rotted away—not a nice surprise! It is a physiological disorder rather than a disease caused when the plant has trouble extracting enough calcium from the soil because moisture levels are too high or too low. There can be plenty of calcium in the soil but the plants are incapable of utilizing it properly. Stressed plants divert the little calcium they have away from the fruit and send it to the shoots to keep them growing. Along with uneven moisture, excessive nitrogen and high soil acidity can contribute to blossom end rot. The best way to prevent it is to mulch your plants to keep the area around the roots consistently moist. See more about blossom-end rot solutions.

Early Blight

Early blight is the most common tomato disease.


It is a fungus that begins on the lower leaves as brown spots which enlarge into concentric rings like a bull’s eye. Eventually they get bigger and run together.


The lower leaves turn yellow and drop off, usually without affecting the fruit.


Sometimes dark patches will appear on the plant stems and on the stem end of the fruit. We have one ‘Early Goliath’ plant that shows signs of early blight but it soldiers on, has plenty of tomatoes forming (only one of those had stem end rot), and it keeps on blossoming. I keep plucking off the infected lower leaves and it continues to grow so for now it stays. I may regret that decision later.

Late Blight

Late blight is terminal.


One year we got it early in the season and watched helplessly as it turned all the plants and fruits to disgusting mush, practically overnight. You can track the spread of late blight across the country at the website Though most of the varieties we grow are heirlooms we also grow some hybrid tomatoes for their disease resistance. We are trying ‘Mountain Magic’ this year which is bred to resist both early and late blight.

Anthracnose And Fungal Diseases

Anthracnose damages just the fruit with its 1/4 to 1/2 inch spots. Septoria is another fungus causing small brown spots with black centers to appear on the older leaves. Eventually they turn yellow and fall off. To prevent all fungal diseases be scrupulous when cleaning up plant debris in the fall. All old leaves and fruit, especially those that were affected by disease should be removed from the garden and disposed of in the trash rather going to the compost pile.


Many tomato varieties are bred for disease resistance. Verticillium and fusarium are two wilt-causing diseases that have no cure. When shopping for tomato seed, look for the letters V and F after the variety name indicating resistance to those diseases.

Other letters are code for tolerance to other diseases: an A means the plant is resistant to alternaria, LB stands for late blight, EB early blight, N is for nematodes, T is tobacco mosaic virus, St is stemphylium leaf spot, Tswv is tomato spotted wilt virus, and Tylc is tomato yellow leaf curl virus.

With all that can befall a tomato plant from the time of germination to the picking of the first ripe tomato, you might think that it’s a miracle that we get any fruit at all! However, growing tomatoes is all about avoiding some common pitfalls that can trip you up along the way. Knowing what to expect and what to do about it will greatly improve your chances of a truly terrific crop of tomatoes.

See our video on troubleshooting tomato problems.
Our Tomato Growing Guide has more information about pests.

About This Blog

Get inspired by Robin Sweetser’s backyard gardening tips and tricks. Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. She and her partner Tom have a small greenhouse business and also sell plants, cut flowers, and vegetables at their local Farmer’s Market.

Reader Comments

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Wilting tomato plants

Our tomatoes are wilting and some have died, although they are watered well. We live in central west NSW and the days have been hot, can you help us as we've run out of ideas

Tomatoes are not ripening

The tomatoes on our two potted plants are not ripening. They've been green for at least two weeks and not growing larger either. Any suggestions as to what's happening?

Temperature is key for growth

Temperature is key for growth and ripening. 70-75 degrees is optimal. If the days are too hot or the nights too cold it can stunt growth. Since you are growing in containers your soil temps. may be too high. Soil should be below 80 degrees for best growth and ripening. How large are the containers? Each tomato needs a five gallon or lager sized pot. Overwatering and overfeeding can negatively affect growth - too much of a good thing is not good for tomatoes. To hasten ripening, remove the top blossoms so the plant puts its energy into the tomatoes on the vine instead of into creating more fruit. Good luck!


Just beneath the peel is a spotty white layer of substance. The substance will turn dark as the tomato turns red.

Got any suggestions?

If it is in spots it could be

If it is in spots it could be caused by stink bugs feeding on the young fruits. They inject a toxin into the fruit which causes spongy white spots to occur. If it is in large areas of the inner walls and across the center of the fruit it could be something called internal white tissue which is caused by high temperatures at the time the fruit is ripening or by a lack of potassium in the soil. There is not much you can do about the temperature but you can do a soil test to check the level of potassium. There is no quick fix for any of these conditions.

Using tomatoes that have early blight

I have some tomatoes that aren't showing the disease from our early blight this year. Can these tomatoes be eaten and can I dehydrate them even though the spores on probably on them?

Thank you!

We have eaten tomatoes that

We have eaten tomatoes that have been affected by early blight with no problems. Just cut off any bad sections and enjoy the rest! Not sure how the fungi might affect dried fruits. They may not store well. I’d advise you to use the blighted fruits in other ways.


I have a beef eater plant and it was growing upward quite well and now it's only growing to one side, it's full and has a lot of leaves, has a lot of tomatoes and the tomatoes were turning red but after I picked the ripe tomatoes off no more are turning red, what is happening and is there anything i can do to get it to stop growing to one side?

I have not grown ‘Beefeater’

I have not grown ‘Beefeater’ but I assume it is an indeterminate plant since it has had more than 1 set of fruit and seems to want to keep growing forever. Don’t be afraid to prune off some of the excess foliage on the side with lots of leaves. That might help the fruit to ripen. Also pinching out the growing tip may encourage the plant to put its energy into ripening instead of growing larger.

sun spot

You have a great photo of what I was told is sun spot. What to do about that?

If you mean sunscald, the

If you mean sunscald, the best way to prevent it is not to overprune your plants. Leave plenty of foliage to shield the developing fruit from direct sun especially during hot dry spells.


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