Growing Tomatoes

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Growing Tomatoes from Planting to Harvest

By The Editors
Tomatoes on Vine
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Our Growing Tomatoes Guide takes you from planting to harvesting! Find out when to plant America’s favorite garden crop, the best way to grow tomatoes, how long it takes a tomato to bear fruit, and what tomatoes need to thrive. We’ll touch on how to transplant, stakes and cages, the best tomato varieties, and more tomato tips!

About Tomatoes

There’s a reason why tomatoes are the #1 home garden vegetable. The taste of a tomato right off the vine is incomparable to a typical grocery store type.

Tomatoes are warm-weather vegetables and sun worshippers!

  • In northern regions, tomato plants will need at least 6 hours of sunlight daily; 8 to 10 hours are preferred.
  • In southern regions, light afternoon shade (natural or applied, e.g., row covers) will help tomatoes to survive and thrive.

How Long Does It Take to Grow a Tomato?

This is one of our most common questions. The exact “days to harvest” depends on the cultivar and it can range from 60 days to more than 100 days.

In addition, tomatoes can not be started too early in the ground as they are a tender warm-season crop that can not bear frost. In most regions, the soil is not warm enough to plant tomatoes outdoors until late spring and early summer except in zone 10, where they are a fall and winter crop. See when to start tomatoes for your location.

Due to their relatively long growing season requirements (and late planting date), plant small “starter plants” or transplants instead of seeds. Choose young tomato plants from a reputable nursery. Good starter plants are short and stocky with dark green color and straight, sturdy stems about the size of a pencil or thicker. They should not have yellowing leaves, spots, or stress damage nor have flowers or fruits already in progress.

Types of Tomatoes

  • Determinate tomatoes, better known as “bush” varieties grow 2 to 3 feet tall. These varieties tend to provide numerous ripe tomatoes at one time, do not put on much leaf growth after setting fruit, and tend to fruit for a (relatively) brief period of time. They are generally productive earlier than the vining varieties, and not in the latter part of the growing season. Determinate tomatoes do not require staking or caging. These plants are idea for containers and small spaces. Most paste tomatoes are determine (which works well for making sauce and canning).
     
  • Indeterminate tomatoes, better known as “vining” varieties produce the largest types of mid- to late-season slicing tomatoes all summer and until the first frost. Because indeterminates experience more leaf growth, their production tends to be spread more evenly throughout the season. Indeterminate tomatoes need staking. They are ideal in large gardeners. Most beefsteak and cherry tomatoes are indeterminate.

Tomatoes come in a wide range of flavors as well as colors and sizes, from tiny grape-sized types to giant beefsteaks. The choice also depends on how you will use this versatile fruit in the kitchen. For example, Roma tomatoes are not usually eaten fresh out of hand, but are perfect for sauces and ketchups. Tomatoes do need vigilant care, as the crop is susceptible to pests and diseases. To avoid problems, choose disease-resistant cultivars whenever possible. 

green_zebra_tomatoes_v_zaitsev_gettyimages_full_width.jpg
Image: Tomatoes aren’t only red! Featured here is the flavorful heirloom ‘Green Zebra,’ a high-yielding indeterminate plant. Credit: VZaitsev/GettyImages

Check out this video to learn more about how to choose tomatoes.

Planting Dates for TOMATOES

Enter a Location

Planting Calendar for all Plants

Planting

Select a site with full sun and, ideally, a space where tomatoes (and members of their family, especially eggplants, peppers, and potatoes) have not grown in the previous couple of years. See tips on crop rotation.

Dig soil to about 1 foot deep and mix in aged manure and/or compost. Give it two weeks to break down before planting.

Starting Tomatoes From Seed

  • As stated above, due to the long growing season for a warm-weather crop, many gardeners purchase starter tomato plants from a nursery.
  • However, tomatoes can be direct-sown in the garden if the soil is at least 55°F. Note that 70°F soil is optimum for maximum germination within 5 days. Be certain that your grown season is long enough to bring the plants to maturity. See your first fall frost date.
  • Or, you can plant tomatoes by seed indoors for a head start. Sow seeds a ½ inch deep in small trays 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. See our Planting Calendar for seed-starting dates specific to your area and our article on “Tomatoes From Seed the Easy Way” for more tips.
  • Harden off your own seedlings for a week before transplanting them in the ground. Set them outdoors in the shade for a few hours on the first day. Gradually increase this time each day to include some direct sunlight. Learn more about hardening off seedlings.

Tomato seedlings

Planting the Transplants

  • Transplant your seedlings or nursery-grown plants after all danger of frost has passed and the soil is at least 60°F. See our Planting Calendar for suggested transplanting dates.
  • Place tomato stakes or cages in the soil at planting. Staking and caging keep developing fruit off the ground (to avoid disease and pests) and also help the plant to stay upright. See instructions on how to build stakes, cages, and tomato supports.
  • When you transplant tomatoes, add a handful of organic tomato fertilizer or bone meal (a good source of phosphorus) to the planting hole.
  • Do NOT apply high nitrogen fertilizers such as those recommended for lawns, as this will promote luxurious foliage but can delay flowering and fruiting. 
  • When planting seedlings, pinch off a few of the lower leaves. Here are two ways to set seedlings in the soil:
    1. Place each root ball deep enough such that the bottom leaves are just above the surface of the soil. Roots will grow all along the plant’s stem underground. Plant seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart. Crowded plants will not get sufficient sun and the fruit may not ripen.
    2. Alternatively, lay long, leggy transplants on their sides in trenches 3 to 4 inches deep. Bury the stems up to the first set of true leaves. Roots will develop along the buried stem. If you plant this way, consider setting four tomato plants in compass-point positions (north, south, east, west). This formation enables you to fertilize and water the plants in the middle.
  • Remember to allow enough space for the plants to spread out.
  • Water well to reduce shock to the roots.

Spacing for Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes in Containers

  • Use a large pot or container (at least 20 inches in diameter) with drainage holes in the bottom. 
  • Use loose, well-draining soil (e.g., at least 12 inches of a good “potting mix” with added organic material).
  • A tray of some sort should be placed under the pot to catch any excess water that drains out the bottom.
  • Choose bush or dwarf varieties; many cherry tomatoes grow well in pots. Taller varieties may need to be staked.
  • Plant one tomato plant per pot and give each at least 6 hours of sun per day.
  • Keep soil moist. Containers will dry out more quickly than garden soil, so check daily and provide extra water during heat waves.

Care

Tomato Plant Care

Watering

  • Water in the early morning so that plants have sufficient moisture to make it through a hot day.
  • Water generously the first few days that the tomato seedlings or transplants are in the ground.
  • Then water with about 2 inches (about 1.2 gallons) per square foot per week during the growing season. Deep watering encourages a strong root system.
  • Avoid overhead watering and afternoon watering. Water at the base/soil level of a plant to avoid splashing water on the leaves (which invites disease).
  • Mulch 5 weeks after transplanting to retain moisture, keep soil from splashing the lower leaves, and control weeds. Apply 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, hay, or bark chips.
  • To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks prevent water from evaporating from the soil.

Fertilizing

  • You should have already worked compost into the soil before planting, and added some bonemeal to the planting hole when transplanting.
  • Side-dress plants, applying liquid seaweed or fish emulsion or an organic fertilizer every 2 weeks, starting when tomatoes are about 1 inch in diameter (some folks say “golf ball-size”). If you are using an organic granular formula such as Epson Tomato-Tone (4-7-10 or 3-4-6), pull mulch back a few inches and scratch 2 to 3 tablespoons fertilizer around the drip line of the plant. Water in, and replace mulch.
  • Continue fertilizing tomatoes about every 3 to 4 weeks until frost.
  • Note: Avoid fast-release fertilizers and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. As stated, too much nitrogen will result in lush foliage but few flowers and little or no fruit.

Pruning, pinching, staking

  • If growing vining tomatoes, pinch off suckers (new, tiny stems and leaves between branches and the main stem). This aids air circulation and allows more sunlight into the middle of the plant.
  • Gently tie the stems to stakes with rags, nylon stockings, twine, or soft string.
  • As a plant grows, trim the lower leaves from the bottom 12 inches of the stem.

No flowers, no fruit?

  • If no flowers form, plants may not be getting enough sun or water (too little can stop flowering).
  • Flower drop-off could be due to high daytime temperatures (over 90°F). Provide shade during the hottest part of the day by using row covers or shade cloth.
  • If plants produce a lot of flowers but no fruit, the cause might be inadequate light, too little water or inconsistent watering, too cold or hot temperatures (above 75°F at night/90°F during the day), or not enough pollinators (bees).
  • Low humidity can also affect pollination; the ideal is 40 to 70 percent. If humidity is low, mist the plant to help pollen to stick.

Check out this post for even more tomato tips.

Tomatoes. Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images
Photo by Ozgurdonmaz/Getty Images

Pests/Diseases

Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests. To avoid overpopulation of insect pests, follow these basic tips:

  1. Monitor tomato plants daily, checking under leaves, checking fruit, and checking near the soil.
  2. To dislodge many pests like aphids, spray plants with with a good jet stream from the hose.
  3. Handpick insects bigger insects like tomato hornworm with gloves on, dropping into a bucket of soapy water.
  4. Apply insecticidal soap directly to the insect on the plant; this works for smaller pests such as aphids and spider mites.
  5. Apply horticultural oils or sprays diluted in water. Neem oil sprays block an insect’s air holes.
  6. If you choose as a last resort to use insecticides like Sevin, keep in mind that you may be killing beneficial insects as well.

Tomato Pests

  • Tomato cutworm (early in the season). Indicated by a chewed stem
  • Aphids will cause yellow curling leaves and white sticky residue
  • Flea Beetles cause holes in leaves
  • Tomato Hornworm and tobacco hornworm cause defoliation
  • Whiteflies indicated by sticky white residue.
  • Leaf miners are indicated by tunnel or zigzag patterns on leaves
  • Corn earworms (aka tomato fruitworms), stink bugs, and slugs cause holes in fruit

When it comes to tomato diseases and other problems, most of the work is in prevention. Here are some tips to avoid tomato diseases:

  1. Plant disease-resistant tomato varieties. Tomato disease-resistant codes are listed on seed or seedling packets (example: F = Fusarium Wilt).
  2. Rotate crops at least every three years in the same spot. Avoid planting Solanaceous family members as well (potato, pepper, and eggplant).
  3. Ensure well-draining soil. Always mix in compost or organic matter.
  4. Water consistently! Do not overwater if you forget nor underwater.
  5. Destroy infected plants. Unfortunately, you often need to remove and discard infected plants or the disease will overwinter. Do NOT put in a compost pile. 
  6. Solarize the soil. If the problem is really bad, you can treat your soil by covering it with plastic during the hottest part of the summer for 6 to 8 weeks; the sun will destroy the bacteria.

Tomato Diseases and Problems

  • Blossom-End Rot causes the bottom side of the tomato to develop dark, sunken spots, due to a calcium imbalance. See the link for remedies and prevention.
  • Early Blight is a fungal disease that causes leaves to drop. In July, the risks of blight increase, due to the combination of high humidity and warm days and nights. It starts with dark, concentric spots (brown to black), about ½-inch in diameter on the lower leaves and stems. If you catch it early and destroy infected leaves, you plant may survive. The best defense for outdoor tomatoes is good ventilation and stripping off the lower leaves as the fruits develop helps this, as well as helping the ripening tomatoes have maximum exposure to sun. 
  • Late Blight is a fungal disease that causes grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. Unfortunately, once your tomato has late blight, there’s really no solution. See our blog on “Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato.”
  • Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don’t put them in your compost pile).
  • Fusarium Wilt starts with yellowing and wilting on one side of the plant and moves up the plant as the fungus spreads. Unfortunately, once this disease strikes, the plant needs to be destroyed.
  • Powdery Mildew is a fungal disease which leaves white spots or a dusting of white on the leaves. It can be managed. See the link to learn more.
  • Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs due to uneven watering or uneven moisture from weather conditions (very rainy periods mixed with dry periods). Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.
  • See our article all about Tomato Diseases and Disorders.

Watch our helpful video to see tomato problems and how to troubleshoot!

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Tomatoes

  • Leave tomatoes on the vine as long as possible.
  • Harvest tomatoes when they are firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. Harvest tomatoes of other colors (orange, yellow, purple, or another rainbow shade) when they turn the correct color.
  • If temperatures start to drop and your tomatoes aren’t ripening, use one of these methods:
    1. Pull up the entire plant, brush off dirt, remove foliage, and hang the plant upside down in a basement or garage.
    2. Place mature, pale green tomatoes stem up, in a paper bag and loosely seal it. Or wrap them in newspaper and place in a cardboard box. Store in a cool (55°F to 70°F), dark place. Cooler temperatures slow ripening; warmth speeds it. Check weekly and remove soft, spotted, diseased, or ripe fruit.
  • Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
  • Watch this video for tips on how to ripen green tomatoes. 
  • You can harvest seeds from some tomato varieties. Learn how here.

How to Store Tomatoes

  • Never refrigerate fresh garden tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that give them that garden tomato taste.
  • To freeze, core fresh and unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they thaw.

See more on properly storing tomatoes and other vegetables.

Recommended Varieties

Tomatoes come in many sizes, from tiny “currant” to “cherry” to large “beefsteak.” There are thousands of tomato varieties to suit different climates and tastes. We recommend looking for disease-resistant cultivars.

Early Varieties (fewer than 70 days to harvest)
Early-maturing cultivars such as Early Girl may be slightly less flavorful but will produce fruit 2 to 3 weeks earlier than midor late-season cultivars. 

  • ‘Early Cascade’: indeterminate trailing plant, fruit in clusters; disease-resistant
  • ‘Early Girl’: indeterminate; meaty fruit; produces through the summer

Mid-season Varieties (70 to 80 days to harvest)

  • ‘Floramerica’: determinate; disease-resistant; firm, deep red flesh, strong plant
  • ‘Fantastic’: indeterminate; disease- and crack-resistant; meaty rich flavor, heavy yields

Late-season Varieties (80 days or more to harvest)

  • ‘Amish Paste’: indeterminate; heirloom; large plum tomatoes, acorn-shaped fruit; juicy, excellent for sauce.
  • ‘Brandywine’: indeterminate; heirloom; beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination, many variants are available
  • ‘Tomato, Roma VF’: determinate; compact roma tomatoes; resistant to wilts. Meaty interiors and few seeds; heavy-yielding; good for paste and canning.

roma_tomatoes_ben185_getty_images_full_width.jpg
Image: Roma tomatoes. Credit: Ben185/Getty

Cherry Tomatoes 

  • ‘Sun Gold’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; resistant to Fusarium wilt and tobacco mosaic virus; bright tangerine-orange color on grapelike trusses; intensely sweet taste
  • ‘Yellow Mini (F1)’: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; sweet juicy favor; compared with other cherry tomatoes, Yellow Mini resists the splitting that is caused by too much rain or inconsistent watering; high resistance to tobacco mosaic virus.

yellow_tomato_johnnyseeds_0_full_width.jpg
Image: Cherry tomatoes (‘Yellow Mini F1’). Credit: Johnny Seeds.

Large Tomatoes

  • Beefsteak, Beefmaster, Ponderosa, and Oxheart are noted for their large fruit. However, these larger fruited types often are more susceptible to diseases and skin cracking. 

black-krim-label_mighty_mato_full_width.jpg
Image: Black Krim heirloom beefsteak tomato. 80 days; indeterminate; wonderfully rich flavor. Credit: Park Seed.

Check out this video how to choose tomato varieties.

See full script to this video on how to choose tomato varieties.

Wit & Wisdom

  • Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.
  • In 1781, there is record of Thomas Jefferson—an experimental farmer—raising tomatoes for his guests.
  • The tomato plant is native to South America, but it was not commonly cultivated in the United States until 1835. In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Many people believed that the fruits were poisonous, which isn’t too far of a leap: Tomatoes are in the same family (Solanaceae) as deadly nightshade (Atropa belladonna). Potatoes and eggplants are also part of this family.
  • In the 19th century, the tomato was called “The Apple of Paradise” in Germany and “The Apple of Love” in France.
  • People have argued for quite a long time about whether tomatoes are fruits or vegetables!

Recipes

Cooking Notes

Tomatoes are nutritious and low in calories. One medium-sized tomato provides 57% of the recommended daily allotment (RDA) of vitamin C, 25% RDA vitamin A, and 8% RDA iron, yet it has only 35 calories.

Capture the garden-fresh taste of tomatoes all year long! See this helpful post on how to can tomatoes.

Many people also love dried tomatoes, so learn how to dry your own tomatoes here.

See our Best Tomato Recipes Ever!

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Reader Comments

Leave a Comment

Planting Tomatoes

Submitted by Debra Ward on June 24, 2021 - 9:31am

Great enlightening of a grandchild and child of gardeners.

Pollinating flowers

Submitted by Marcia Jones on June 8, 2021 - 12:47pm

I have my 2 tomato plants I bought from a big box store, in planters. One is a paste and the other is a slicer/beefsteak? These are on my deck. I live in BC, Canada on Vancouver Island.

As I am near the ocean i do not get many bees, due to the breezes, etc. And i am wondering what is the best method for self pollinating and when is the best time to do so, as in the stage of flowering?

Thank You
Marcia

Pollinating flowers

Submitted by Marcia Jones on June 8, 2021 - 12:47pm

I have my 2 tomato plants I bought from a big box store, in planters. One is a paste and the other is a slicer/beefsteak? These are on my deck. I live in BC, Canada on Vancouver Island.

As I am near the ocean i do not get many bees, due to the breezes, etc. And i am wondering what is the best method for self pollinating and when is the best time to do so, as in the stage of flowering?

Thank You
Marcia

Am I wrong?

Submitted by GDS on May 24, 2021 - 9:18pm

I hate to be a stickler, but under Plant Type at the top of this page you classify the tomato as a vegetable. My understanding is that it is a citrus fruit.

More importantly, thank you for this fantastic website!

Vegetable vs. Fruit

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 25, 2021 - 4:33pm

Botanically speaking, you are correct that the tomato is a fruit (though not a citrus fruit). In gardening and culinary lingo, tomatoes are commonly thought of as “vegetables,” just like peppers, zucchini, and eggplants—despite them all technically being botanical fruits! 

 

sun to ripen?

Submitted by craig hockenbury on May 17, 2021 - 11:53am

"Plant seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart. Crowded plants will not get sufficient sun and the fruit may not ripen." Maybe need sufficient light to grow and bloom, air space to prevent disease, but RIPEN?? Isn't that myth and its the air temperature that ripens?

Curling Leaves on Seedlings

Submitted by Kathy on May 14, 2021 - 10:14am

We started our tomatoes from seed. Approximately, 5 weeks into their growth the leaves started curling. They have grown quite tall some already have fruit starting. We are wondering if they were over fertilized. I have now placed them in larger pots (we can’t plant outdoors yet) in hopes of correcting the issue. Since doing so the beefsteak leaves have started to unfold. The glacier plants don’t seem to be changing. They are quite tall and spindly, leaves remain curled and don’t appear to be getting new leaf growth. Plus, they already have fruit. With them being determinate I worry they will not produce additional fruit.

Big Seedlings

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 14, 2021 - 4:17pm

Curling leaves can be a sign of watering trouble—either too much or too little can cause tomatoes to curl their leaves under. As soon as this is corrected, they usually have no trouble bouncing back to life.

It would be better to remove the first flowers now before you plant them outside in the ground, as they’ll need to focus their energy on putting out new roots and foliage until they’re established outdoors. (Planting them in larger pots will only encourage them to grow larger.) Don’t prune them and they shouldn’t have trouble producing more flowers and fruit. 

As for the spindly seedlings, don’t be afraid to plant them several inches deeper than they are planted in their pots. They’ll put out roots from almost anywhere on their stems. 

Grow Lights

Submitted by April Welke on May 9, 2021 - 11:15am

I have two LED Grow Lights, I start them off at 2 Inches from the pots and Still My Plant Get too Leggy Too Quickly and they Grow so fast that they Hit the Lights and have to keep Raising the lights or else they Get scorched.. What can I do to keep my plants from getting leggy?

Grow Lights

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 14, 2021 - 4:20pm

Unfortunately, the answer is to just keep moving the lights as they grow taller. If you find you need to repot them before planting in the garden, don’t be afraid to plant them a few inches deeper in their new pots. This can help keep them not as leggy until they’re ready for the great outdoors.

Yellowing leaves

Submitted by Indira on May 8, 2021 - 12:33pm

I transplanted my tomato seedings into ground on 04/29, now after a week, leaves are turning yellow. They have enough water and all the sun. Can you please advise on how to protect them

Thank you
Indira

Transplant Shock

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 14, 2021 - 3:55pm

It sounds like your tomatoes could be suffering from transplant shock, which is a common occurrence with tomatoes. They just need more time to adjust to their new environment. Keep them watered, protect from cold nights, and they should rebound soon enough!

tomatoes

Submitted by p muzerengani on February 9, 2021 - 12:41am

Thank you for this information. I have one problem which affects my tomatoes. There is a worm eating the leaves and they are dry.

Tomato pests

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on February 20, 2021 - 1:04pm

Since you mention both “worms” and “leaves,” then you may be looking at a Tomato Hornworm. They cause defoliation. You can pick them off (with gloves) and drop in soapy water. 

See all solutions on the Tomato Hornworm page in our Pest Library 

Will not ripen

Submitted by Sunny Robinson on May 20, 2020 - 3:08pm

My tomatoes have reached their full size (Romas) but there's still not a bit of "blush" on them and they remain green. I live in Florida, where the temperature has already reaching 90 degrees in mid-May. Is the heat preventing them from ripening? Should I simply pick the biggest ones and try to get them to ripen indoors? Thanks.

Green Roma Tomatoes

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on February 20, 2021 - 1:07pm

Yes, you are correct. When temperatures exceed 85 to 90 F, the ripening process slows significantly or even stops. The optimum temperature for ripening tomatoes is 70 to 75F. Do not remove leaves in an effort to ripe; this will not work. The key is picking them when they are showing the first signs of ripening (no earlier) and keeping them at room temperature. Do not refrigerate, as this will absolutely destroy their flavor.

no blossoms on plants ??

Submitted by Norma Maloney on May 7, 2020 - 1:00pm

have three heirloom tomatoes in pots , only one has any blossoms ?? all look healthy but not setting blossoms ?? what is up ?

No flowers on tomato plants

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on February 20, 2021 - 1:08pm

We added this information in the guide above. If no flowers form, plants may not be getting enough sun or water (too little can stop flowering). Flower drop-off could be due to high daytime temperatures (over 90°F). Provide shade during the hottest part of the day by using row covers or shade cloth.

Tomatoes in unheated Greenhouse

Submitted by Alicia on April 25, 2020 - 8:15pm

Ive recently started tomatoes from seeds. I started them inside on a heat mat and undergrow lights. My grow lights are small and I decided to move them out into my unheated greenhouse for more even lighting but im worried that it will be too cold at night. It get into the low 40s F. Is this too cold for tomatoes? Should I bring them inside at night? Any other advice at using a unheated greenhouse when it is still chilly spring weather? I live in northern Indiana and sadly our temperatures are about 10 degrees colder than average. Thanks for any advice!

Tomatoes in Unheated Greenhouse

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on April 27, 2020 - 3:47pm

While nighttime temps are still below 50°F, it’s a good idea to bring the plants indoors. During the day, as long as temps hover around 50°F or more in the greenhouse, the plants can live there. Note that you’ll still need to put them through some sort of hardening off process before putting the tomatoes outside permanently. This can be done in the greenhouse, to some extent, by exposing them to cooler temps during the day slowly over time.

Tomato Seedlings

Submitted by Ginette Comeau on April 19, 2020 - 11:55am

I started tomato seedlings under a dome with a heated mat. About 2 weeks ago, I moved the seedlings under a grow light with a fan blowing a light breeze for a few hours a day. They were doing fine and the first 2 sets of leaves began to grow. Then one day I noticed small black dots on the leaves. Is this fungus? Is there any way to save the seedlings? Otherwise they are growing well and look healthy.

Tomato Leaves

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on April 24, 2020 - 1:37pm

If they’ve been getting ample air flow around their leaves, fungi seems unlikely. Nevertheless, look up septoria leaf spot and see if it matches what you’re seeing. If you happened to use old soil that had been in contact with tomatoes in the past, it could’ve brought diseases with it. 

Cages

Submitted by Katanahamon on April 13, 2020 - 4:09pm

Buy a roll of concrete reinforcing wire, around 50-70 some dollars, with 4-6 inch squares. You can make upwards of 25 cages that are six feet tall, by cutting the lowest ring out you can make built in stakes to support it. Easiest method yet rather than staking and tying. Use greensand, kelp, bone meal, kelp or fish meal, organic amendments in your holes, perhaps a landscape fabric and mulch. Try treating seeds and seedlings with salicylic acid for stress tolerance, humid and fulvic acid supplements for great growth. Don’t prune tomatoes, you’re only eliminating food for the growing plant, or fruiting buds. Only exception is topping a leggy plant to promote bushiness.

GMO

Submitted by Steven Horwood on April 7, 2020 - 7:10am

Thank you for a wonderful website. I have cause for thought that with all the different varieties of tomato, how can we know which have been purely hybrid, Genetically interfered with in a laboratory and injected with insecticide to produce a variety resistant to pests etc. I am wanting to be as organic and natural as possible?

organic tomatoes

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on April 7, 2020 - 5:00pm

Hi Steven, Good question. If you’re interested in organic tomatoes, growers must actually have a label certified by a USDA-approved state agency. The certification means that the tomatoes are produced using pest management and fertilization methods that do not include synthetic compounds. If you don’t see this certification, the plant may not be organic if even it’s claimed organic. You would need to trust the grower. 

Also, we prefer buying our seeds and plants from the catalog seed companies. Then, it’s very clear in the catalog what you are ordering. Plus, ordering direct is usually less expensive. Here is a list of catalogs of both organic and non-organic seed supplies: https://www.almanac.com/content/garden-seed-catalogs-mail

planting tomatoes

Submitted by paul on March 23, 2020 - 11:43am

I plant mine in a horizontal trench, leaving only the top 5 inches of a 2 foot plant above soil. This has produced huge root systems and enormous productions compared to other ways that Iv'e planted. I done shallow, and deep vertical planting. Last year 10 plants produced 450+ lbs of tomatoes. mmmm tasty. We planted cherokee purple, black krim, moneymaker, supersteak and big rainbow.

Planting Tomatoes

Submitted by claudettewiliams050 on January 17, 2020 - 1:49am

I've been looking for a tomato page like this with more information! This is perfect. I really want to plant tomatoes this year.

Floramerica Seeds

Submitted by Kit Dockery on January 14, 2020 - 1:33pm

I have performed an exhaustive search on the internet for these seeds but cannot find them. Does anyone know where I could purchase these? Thanks in advance!

tomato seeds

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on January 14, 2020 - 3:55pm

It seems that this hybrid tomato was featured in catalogs back in 2012 and 2013 but mostly discontinued for some reason.
We see that a UC Davis cooperative extension adviser recommended this tomato variety for CA zones: https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=7018
Here’s the author’s contact info if you wish to ask her about the variety: http://fruitsandnuts.ucdavis.edu/?facultyid=767
Sorry we couldn’t be of more help. Hope this points you in the right direction.

Very good post. I am going

Submitted by marcelo193226475 on December 31, 2019 - 3:04am

Very good post. I am going through some of these issues as well..

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Growing Tomatoes

Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum
Plant Type Vegetable
Sun Exposure Full Sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Acidic, Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11
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