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Planting and Growing Astilbes

Astilbe plant with pink feathery plumes of flowers growing in the garden

Image Credit:
J. Kumpinovica/Shutterstock
Botanical Name
Astilbe
Grown as
Perennial
USDA Zones
3a
3b
4a
4b
5a
5b
6a
6b
7a
7b
8a
8b
9a
9b
Toxicity
Non-toxic
Sun Exposure
Partial Sun
Partial Shade
Shade
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
1–3 feet
Spread
1–3 feet
Soil pH
Neutral
Bloom Time
Spring
Summer
Flower Color
Pink
Red
White
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Cut Flower
Disease-Resistant
Low Maintenance
Attracts Butterflies
Attracts Pollinators
Deer-resistant
Rabbit-resistant
Resilience
Clay Soil Tolerant
Cold Hardy
Plant Type
Flowers
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Meet astilbe—a shade garden favorite, with colorful plume-like blooms, ferny foliage, and a hardy disposition that’s sure to make this easy-going perennial your newest feathery friend. 

If you’re looking for a deer-proof plant with a long bloom time and tolerance for moisture, shade, and cold, here’s what makes astilbes stand out and how to keep these plants in flower beds, garden borders, or containers!

Planting

When to Plant Astilbe

Most growers cultivate astilbe from nursery starts, which are best planted in spring or fall. Growing these plants from seed can be tricky, but you can also produce new astilbe from dividing established plants in early spring.

Multicolored astilbe plants in garden
Astilbes come in many beautiful colors!
Photo: znmysteryPhoto

Where to Plant Astilbe

Astilbes prefer light to moderate shade, while deep shade can reduce flowering and full sun may burn the plant’s tender leaves. Although astilbes love moist, damp soil, they still need proper drainage and should not be grown in areas where water puddles for long periods of time. For optimal growth, amend the soil with compost or aged manure before planting astilbes to boost soil nutrient levels and improve drainage too.

If desired, you can also grow astilbes in well-draining pots that are at least 16 inches wide, or plant them in garden borders or use them as a flowering ground cover.

How to Plant Astilbe

Plant nursery starts about 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety. To plant, loosen the soil to about 10 to 12 inches deep with your shovel, mix in a touch of compost, set the plant’s crown (where the roots and stems connect) just below the soil line, backfill the hole with soil, and water well.

If you’re growing bare-root plants instead, dig a hole that’s twice as wide as the plants’ roots and 4 to 6 inches deep. Place the plant so the roots are fanned out slightly and pointing downwards with the crown located 1 to 2 inches below the soil line, then cover the roots with soil, press firmly, and water your new astilbes in.

Growing

Watering 

Astilbes grow best when their soil is kept evenly moist. During dry spells, water these plants deeply at the soil line.

Fertilizing

Producing big blooms takes energy and astilbes tend to be heavy feeders. To boost flowering, fertilize these plants twice a year in spring and fall with a balanced, organic liquid or granular fertilizer.

Pruning or Maintenance

Astilbes are rather slow to establish but spread quickly once their roots settle and form broad clumps of plants with crowns that rise about the soil over time. To keep astilbes healthy, re-cover the crowns as needed with fresh soil or compost and divide the plants every 3 to 4 years in spring. These plants don’t need much pruning and won’t reflower with deadheading, but you can freshen their look by clipping off spent flowers when they begin to fade.

Seasonal Care

Hardy to Zone 3, astilbes don’t need much winter management, but their leaves may turn yellow at the first frost. If desired, you can clip the leaves away when they do, or leave them as-is. Plants in the garden will benefit from a light layer of mulch applied in fall, while container-grown plants may need their pots to be buried in the garden or protected with frost blankets to ensure the containers don’t break.

Harvesting

When to Harvest

Astilbes look beautiful in cut fllower arrangements and blooms can be harvested as soon as they unfurl in all their beauty!

How to Harvest

To harvest astilbe blooms or leaves, simply clip them off with sharp, sterilized pruners or scissors. Just avoid harvesting more than 1/3 of your plant’s stems or flowers at once to prevent stress.

Storage

Astilbe flowers typically last in a vase for about 4 to 12 days, but they also dry beautifully.

Pests and Problems

As perennials go, astilbe are tough as nails plants that tend to naturally resist deer and rabbit damage. But even these sturdy flowers can suffer from a few common issues.

Common Problems

  • Yellow leaves may occur if astilbes receive too much sun, or if they’re over- or underwatered. If the leaves yellow towards the top of the plant, sun-scorch is most likely. Consistent yellowing usually indicates a watering issue, which you can confirm by feeling the soil.
  • Reduced flowering may result if astilbes are underfertilized or overcrowded. To avoid this fate, fertilize astilbes regularly and divide plants every 3 to 4 years.
  • Wilting usually indicates that astilbes need more water, but plants may wilt in overly wet conditions if their roots begin to rot due to excess moisture.

Common Pests

  • Asiatic garden beetles are small, 1/3-inch long brownish beetles that may chew holes in astilbe leaves. These pests can be dislodged with your garden hose or managed with companion planting and organic insecticidal soap sprays.
  • Weevils sometimes nibble on astilbe roots, which can lead to wilting and plant death. Beneficial nematodes can be used to treat these pests, but you can also avoid reoccurrences by growing astilbes in containers with fresh soil.
  • Nematodes aren’t always the “good guys” and some destructive nematodes can cause leaf discoloration in astilbes. Severe cases are usually not fixable and it’s best to destroy affected plants.

Plant diseases

  • Powdery mildew can set in if astilbes are grown in areas with poor air flow and watered from the top down. The best way to prevent this issue is to space astilbes out properly, ensure they get enough sun, and water plants at the soil line.
  • Other diseases, like fusarium wilt and leaf spot can affect astilbes too. These issues can sometimes be prevented or reversed by destroying infected plant material in fall and adding mulch to reduce soil splashing, but severe cases may require plants to be destroyed.

Types

Popular astilbe hybrids include …

  • ‘Fanal’ boasts dark green foliage, dark crimson flowers, and grows to about 1½ feet tall.
  • ‘Irrlicht’ enchants with dark green foliage, elegant white flowers, and a maximum height of up to 2 feet tall.
  • ‘Visions’ is a particularly drought-tolerant option with strong stems, green leaves, and thick raspberry-hued flowers.

Wit and Wisdom

  • Astilbe plants were first popularized in Japan in the 1800s.
  • The first cultivated astilbes were developed to produce forced blooms in winter and were intended to be grown indoors.
  • According to the language of flowers, astilbes symbolize patience, devotion, and the message: “I will wait for you.”

Flowers
Shade Gardening

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening, so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Helene</span> Sat, 06/17/2017 - 12:26
My astilbe were pink first couple years but have now changed to white. What happened?
<span>Susie</span> Sun, 06/24/2018 - 14:06
It could be a woodchuck that is eating your plant.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 06/20/2017 - 09:38

This is a, ah, perennial question (see similar ones below), and there is still no sure answer that we are aware of. The color change could be a sign that the plant is aging, it could be an indication of not enough sunlight, and it could be symptomatic of poor soil conditions (inaccurate pH or lack of composted/organic material or lack of moisture; see above). We hope this helps!

 <span>Dawne Dicarlo</span> Sat, 06/17/2017 - 10:23
I did not mention in my question about moving astilbe that I live in Northeast Ohio. And that the front of my house is southeast but more east.
<span>Dawne Dicarlo</span> Sat, 06/17/2017 - 09:18
My astilbe is in a shady area but is not growing and flowering well there. I would like to move it to the front of my house where it will receive partial shade. It is June 17th. Can I move it now. I have seen fully grown, flowering astilbe, and mine has barely grown! Thanks
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 06/20/2017 - 09:45

It is best to move astilbe in the spring, when the soil is cool and moist. Moving now may be dodgy, unless you can control the soil temp and moisture (hard to do). Ah-ha: Maybe you could transfer it to a container?? If you do this (or if you move it) make sure that the soil is well-draining composted/organic material and keep it moist but not soaking; it should drain. As for its having barely grown, these are slow-growing plants but if given proper care/conditions will bloom for years.

 <span>Corina S</span> Sat, 06/17/2017 - 07:46
I planted some about two seasons ago but have yet to have blooms . How long does it take to get long tall blooms ? Thank you eastern Maryland waiting for fluffy blooms .
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 06/20/2017 - 09:51

Astilbe are slow-growing plants and if you started with a relatively small one, it may need to mature before it flowers. You might also check its environment: Astilbes need composted/organic material, moisture, and sunlight/some shade.

 <span>Christine Meyer</span> Mon, 06/12/2017 - 14:40
Mine have done incredibly well for many years now but are starting to overtake the space...when and how can I divide them?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Wed, 06/14/2017 - 13:36

This is best done in early spring or fall—but not before the third year. Unearth, or lift, the plants, allowing a good few inches from the base/cluster of stems. Shake off the soil and you should see a cluster of "knobs" at (what would be) ground level, with roots coming out of the bottom and stems coming out the top of them. Each knob is a plant. Separate them with a clean, sharp knife and replant each knob.