Caption
Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia)
Types
As well as the traditional black-eyed Susans, which grow 1 to 3 feet tall (or more), there are dwarf varieties that reach no more than 1 foot (perfect for containers). Varieties can be annual, biennial, or perennial.
The popular roadside Rudbeckia hirta with showy yellow flowers is a biennial in the wild but is treated as a short-lived perennial in the garden. It self-seeds abundantly, naturalizing easily. If you sow seeds 6 weeks before the last frost date, you’ll see flowers in the first year, and they may return a few more seasons (but you can’t always count on it). Some of its many hybrids include:
- ‘Autumn Colors’: yellow, orange, red, and brown flowers; 18- to 24-inch stems
- ‘Becky Mixed’: lemon-yellow, golden-yellow, dark red, and reddish-brown flowers; 10- to 16-inch stems
- ‘Prairie Sun’: All-America Selections winner; 4- to 6-inch bright orange flowers that fade to yellow at the tips; 28- to 33-inch stems. See AAS winning Rudbeckia varieties!
- ‘Sonora’: large golden flowers with big, chocolate-brown centers; 12- to 16-inch stems
- ‘Toto Gold’: dwarf type; classic yellow flowers with black centers; 12- to 16-inch stems; ideal for containers
There are also true, long-lasting perennials that will keep coming back and blooming year after year.
- ‘Goldsturm’ black-eyed Susans (R. fulgida ‘Goldsturm’), known for their longevity and a regular plant in late summer and fall gardens
- ‘Sweet’ black-eyed Susans (R. subtomentosa), bearing taller flowers and ideal for a more naturalized garden or meadow
- ’Gloriosa Daisy’ (R. hirta ‘Gloriosa’), 12 to 36 inches tall and tolerates partial shade; giant, bi-color double flowers.
Finally, some Rudbeckia varieties are annuals, such as the Clasping Sunflower (R. amplexicaulis), a low-growing plant for the front of a border garden.
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Hi Rick, Black-eyed susans are one of those perennials that you can simply leave alone through the fall for winter interest and for the birds to enjoy.
However, if you don't want to leave it, cut back the perennial to two inches above the ground.
We would either plant small transplants in the fall or we'd start seeds indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost date. The flowers seem to handle transplanting well enough from seedling, and tend to bloom stronger and healthier than directly-sown seeds. If you sow inside, ensure the seeds aren’t covered too heavily with soil. Again, they need the light to germinate. Keep seeds and seeding moist, but not soggy.
You can certaily sow seeds, too, and these flowers self-sow so they pick up from seed pretty easily. Just note that it could take a year for the seed to bloom so this requires more patience. To sow: Sprinkle the seeds on top of regular seed starting mix about six weeks before the last frost date. Do not cover the seed as they need light to germinate. Plant your seedlings outdoors after any danger of frost has passed.
Black-eyed Susans can spread via seeds and underground rhizomes. To prevent spreading, deadhead the flowers before they set seed. As to controlling the spreading of rhizomes, that is more difficult. As you may have found, if you don't get every piece, chances are that section of rhizome (a modified stem) that is left will produce another plant. Here are suggestions from the Purdue Cooperative Extension as to how to combat this problem:
1) Provide a large area of mulch around the mother plant. Keep up with digging up any rhizomes that spread from that mother plant (several times each growing season).
2) Another option would be to replant the mother plant in a container (with drainage holes) and put the container in the ground, with the rim about 2 inches above the soil surface. Check periodically to make sure rhizomes do not escape the container. Every year or two, prune the roots to keep the plant confined in its container, or repot as needed.
3) A third option would be to insert a barrier (or collar) around the plant, such as a section of deep-walled bottomless pipe about 8 to 18 inches deep, to prevent rhizomes from spreading.
In the meantime, use a garden fork to expose current rhizomes and then gently remove them from the soil.
Hope this helps!
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