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How to Grow Grapes: Planting, Pruning, and Harvesting Tips

bunches of green grapes growing on a grape vine
Botanical Name
Vitis spp.
Grown as
Perennial
USDA Zones
2a
2b
3a
3b
4a
4b
5a
5b
6a
6b
7a
7b
8a
8b
9a
9b
Toxicity
Toxic to Dogs and Cats
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Water Needs
High
Height
20+ feet
Spread
6-10 feet
Soil pH
Neutral
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Green
White
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Fall Color
Fragrant
Attracts Pollinators
Attracts Songbirds
Resilience
Cold Hardy
Drought-Tolerant
Heat-Tolerant
Plant Type
Fruit
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Interested in growing grapes in your backyard? Whether you’re planting grapes for fresh eating, homemade wine, or delicious jelly, these vigorous vines offer beauty and bounty. 

In this guide, you’ll learn how to grow grapes at home, including tips on choosing the right grape varieties, planting, pruning, and harvesting. With proper care, your grapevine can produce sweet, juicy fruit for decades, making it one of the most rewarding plants to grow in your garden.

Grape vines not only produce sweet and versatile fruits, but they also add an element of drama to a garden or landscape. They are vigorous growers, and with the proper pruning, they will produce fruit with ease within a few years and last for 30 years or more!

For home gardeners, there are three main types of grapes to consider: American (Vitis labrusca), European (V. vinifera), and French-American hybrids. American grapes are the most cold-hardy, while European grapes—usually better for wine than the table—do well in warm, dry, Mediterranean-type zones. Hybrids tend to be both cold-hardy and disease-resistant, but are not as flavorful as European grapes. Another type that is grown in the U.S. is the Muscadine (V. rotundifolia), which is native to the southern United States. The Muscadine grape’s thick skin makes it best suited for use in jams, wine, or other processed grape products.

Make sure you purchase grape vines from a reputable nursery. Vigorous, 1-year-old plants are best. Smaller, sometimes weaker, 1-year-old plants are often held over by the nursery to grow another year and are then sold as 2-year-old stock. Obtain certified virus-free stock when possible.

Planting

  • Grapevines should be planted in early spring after the date of the last hard freeze has passed. Vines are usually purchased as dormant, bare-root plants.
  • Most grape varieties are self-fertile. To be sure, ask when you are buying vines if you will need more than one plant for pollination.
  • Select a site with full sun. If you don’t have a spot with full sun, make sure it at least gets morning sun. A small amount of afternoon shade won’t hurt. Your soil needs to be deep, well-drained, and loose. You also need good air circulation.
  • Grape vines will need to be trained to some sort of support to grow upward. This will also cut the risk of disease. The support needs to be in place at planting.
    • One option is a sturdy trellis or arbor. The arbor may have two, four or six posts, depending on whether it’s attached to the house or another structure. The top can be secured with 2-inch by 4-inch wooden slats that hold the arbor together and topped with 1-inch by 2-inch wood pieces to create the latticework for the vines to grow on. You may also need corner braces to secure the whole structure. Grow the grapes, one per post, selecting the strongest cane. Allow it to grow to the top of the post the first year, securing it to the post as it grows.
    • If you are low on free space, try growing grapes on a stake. Pound in a sturdy stake next to the grapevine and securely attach it. Keep the vine growing vertically. Let the vine grow to the top of the stake the first year, then top it. Allow 4 to 5 side canes to grow. Remove all the rest.
  • Before planting grapevines, soak their roots in water for two or three hours.
  • Space vines 6 to 10 feet apart (16 feet for muscadines).
  • For each vine, dig a planting hole 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Fill with 4 inches of topsoil. Trim off broken roots and set the vine into the hole slightly deeper than it grew in the nursery. Cover the roots with 6 inches of soil and tamp down. Fill with the remaining soil, but don’t tamp this down.
  • Water at time of planting.

Growing

  • Do not fertilize in the first year unless you have problem soil. Fertilize lightly in the second year of growth.
  • Use mulch to keep an even amount of moisture around the vines.
  • A mesh net is useful in keeping birds away from budding fruit.

Pruning Grapes

Pruning is very important. Grapes produce fruit on shoots growing off of one-year-old canes. If you have too many old canes (from no pruning), then you’ll get fewer grapes. If you prune back your vines completely each year, then you get lots of new growth, but again, few grapes.

Pruning is done in late winter when the plant is dormant, usually around March. But for the first year or so, the goal is to create a strong root system and trunk. Plant in spring and prune back the grapevine to three buds. Then wait until the first winter.

  • If you are growing grapes on an arbor or trellis: Grow the grapes, one per post, selecting the strongest cane. Allow it to grow to the top of the post the first year, securing it to the post as it grows. The first winter, top the cane and allow it to grow side branches along the top of the arbor. If you let the vines just continue to grow, they will produce dense shade, but little fruit. Prune the grapes each winter by removing those canes that fruited the previous year, cutting back one-year-old canes to five to six buds, and leaving some renewal canes pruned back to two to three buds. The goal is to have canes on the trellis spaced 2 to 3 feet apart. Remove any weak, thin canes. You want to leave enough fruiting canes on the trellis to fill it back in each summer, but not so many that it becomes a tangled mess.
  • If you are growing grapes on a stake, cut back the side canes in the first winter to three buds on each. These will send out shoots that will produce grapes the next year. Remove all weak and spindly growth, especially along the lower parts of the trunk. The second winter, prune back the healthiest canes to six to ten buds, select two canes as renewal spurs, and prune those back to three buds on each and remove all other canes. Repeat this pruning each winter. Your trunk should be able to support four to seven fruiting canes each year as it gets older.

Harvesting

  • If grapes aren’t ripening, pinch back some of the foliage to let in more sunlight.
  • Grapes will not continue ripening once picked from the vine. Test a few to see if they are to your liking before harvesting, usually in late summer or early fall.
  • Grapes are ripe and ready to harvest when they are rich in color, juicy, full-flavored, easily crushed but not shriveled, and plump. They should be tightly attached to the stems. Sample different grapes from different clusters, and the taste should be between sweet and tart. Check our ripeness guide for more tips on color.
  • Grapes can be stored for up to six weeks in the cellar, but grapes can absorb the odors of other fruits and vegetables, so keep them separate. Use cardboard boxes or crates lined with clean, dry straw. Separate bunches with straw or sawdust. Check often for spoilage.
  • See our article on making jams and jellies with fruit from your garden.

Pests and Problems

Spacing for Grapes

Types

Note: Seedless varieties will produce smaller grapes.

  • ‘Edelweiss’: Hardy in zones 4–7 (–20°F), early white variety. Table and wine.
  • ‘Reliance’: Hardy in zones 4–8, seedless, pink table grape.
  • ‘Seibel’: Hybrid, wine grape. Cold hardy.
  • ‘Swenson Red’: Hardy in zones 4–8, red table grape.
  • ‘Magnolia’: White Muscadine wine grape. Sweet. Best in zones 7–9.
  • ‘Valiant’: Eating grape hardy to Zone 2.

Wit and Wisdom

Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) resemble grapes only in that they grow in clusters, but that was sufficient reason for early European explorers in Barbados to bestow this name on them.

Fruit

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening, so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Tom Shultz</span> Wed, 11/29/2017 - 15:45
I have 1 single grape planted in our back yard. It has been there for more than 20 years and was there when we purchased the home in San Diego Ca. This last year we had a ton of grapes and harvested them in late September or early October 2017. I have since then pruned back for my next growing season. Now in the end of November I have clusters of grapes sprouting. Is this normal? I have never experienced this. They normally start in the summer. Thanks.
<span>Tinotendashe M…</span> Fri, 11/10/2017 - 08:40
this website is very useful. i am looking forward to learn more
<span>Lynn Kaplan</span> Sat, 09/30/2017 - 16:21
I know this is a completely off the wall idea and perhaps you'll tell me I'm nuts but I have to ask: I recently cut down 3 birch trees that died due to drought, but left the stumps tall (6-8') with the idea of creating visual interest with a climbing plant(s). This is in my front yard so visual appeal is important. I dug a circular hole between the trees and chopped away tree roots down about 1'. The soil is loose even down around the tree roots, not hard pack. Do you think I could train a single Concord grape vine to grow up the trunks? Perhaps using chicken wire or similar as support? Thanks.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 10/02/2017 - 15:16

Interesting idea! If you train one plant up a tall stump, then it will need something for the tendrils to cling to and support the weight. Chicken wire wrapped around the trunk can help, or a series, perhaps, of eyebolts top to bottom along a trunk, where vertical wires are threaded to which you can tie the stem as it is trained to grow upward. Are these locations in areas with enough sunlight? Are the 3 birches remaining in the ground, and if so, are they close together enough to tie horizontal support wires between 2 or 3 to act as training for lateral branches of the grapevine? Horizontal wires may help with training if you are interested in higher yields, but for just a decorative accent, it is worth a try to have the vine simply grow up the trunk (with support). Good luck!

 <span>Harold Taylor</span> Wed, 09/27/2017 - 16:12
my grapes this year have produced a hugh amount of beautiful grapes,,now half of them have stopped ripening,,i made lots and lots of jelly from them but they just stopped turning color,,,what is my problem....thanks ht
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 09/28/2017 - 15:07

Do the unripe grapes occur within the same clusters as the ripe ones? This phenomenon is called "uneven ripening" and is most commonly caused by "overcropping," which is when the vine has produced more grape clusters than it can possibly ripen in one season. In other words, your grape vine may have already reached its physical limit for grape production this year! To prevent overcropping, it's recommended to prune excess buds in the late winter. A grape vine may start out with 200+ buds, so cutting that back to around 100 buds would be best. This will result in fewer grapes overall, but when done correctly, it will produce better quality grapes.

 <span>Ryan</span> Tue, 08/22/2017 - 13:15
I live in northern Utah (zone 6/7ish) and am looking at adding grapes to my current small orchard of apple, pears, plums, etc... I am looking at ordering Muscat grapes and maybe another variety or two. The nursery I order from sells them in a "bundle of three. My first question (and my assumption is) they are 3 separate plants that are to be planted individually, not in a grouping as is with melons? My second question is: is there a preferred, better, or best trellis or support system for the vines. I see posts with wire, I've seen hog wire used, fancy wood trellises, etc... is there a particular one that is better for maintaining and harvesting. Thanks
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Wed, 08/23/2017 - 17:02

Ryan, you will find detailed info on spacing the vines above and be sure to click on the Trellis or Arbor link for details on the differences.

 <span>Caitlyn Reynolds</span> Wed, 07/19/2017 - 09:34
I have a mature 8 year old vineyard section in the house that I got in Middleburg, VA. It has grapes on it however the leaves are yellowing, and it was overgrown until I got here. I took out the weeds that were growing between the vines however I'm trying my hardest to save it. Any tips on daily or monthly care to make sure that they survive?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 07/20/2017 - 11:14

Hi Caitlyn,

There are a number of reasons the leaves are turning yellow, but all are from deficiencies of different nutrients or minerals. Go to your local cooperative extension to get a soil test and see what you're missing: http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services. Also, a bag of compost spread around the root bases never hurt!