Yes, you can plant a potted peach tree during summer or fall, too. However, you should not plant during the hottest part of summer, as this will cause too much stress on the tree. If you live in a mild climate, mid- to late August will likely be a good time to plant.

Downstate NY, such as around NYC or Long Island, is in Zones 6 and 7. Other southern regions of NY state, such as in the Binghamton area, are more in Zone 5. The donut peach has been bred to grow as far north as Zone 5, but sometimes has difficulty in the coldest zone. But Zones 6 and warmer should be OK. Make sure that the peach tree is receiving full sun. Ideally, peaches like moist, well-drained, sandy loam. Check for diseases such as peach leaf curl. You can ripen peaches that have already been picked by placing them in a paper bag on a counter, and storing them for a few days at room temperature (putting them in the refrigerator will stop ripening).  Hope this helps!

Peach trees, unlike apple and pear and plum trees, do not require a pollinator. They are self-pollinating. That said, most expert still recommend planting another variety in your yard for optimum fruit production. Make sure you ask a tree nursery which types of peach trees pollinate each other.

And remember that climate is the most important factor. Make sure that the tree is recommended for your hardiness zone. Peach trees tend to grow best in zones 5 to 8, but there are also cold-hardy types for the cooler climates in parts of the north (Zone 4) and heat-tolerant varieties for the warmer climates in parts of the south and west (Zone 9).

Most container plants need protection in winter—indoors, even if it’s a garage. Roots (on anything) in a container have greater exposure than those in the ground. And size is container size is relative; usually a 5-gallon container is minimum recommended, but a 15- to 20-gallon container is better.

Your local cooperative extension may be able to give you better/more specific advice re the local weather, your container, and the variety of peach. Find your state and then the service here: https://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services

We would recommend consulting your local Cooperative Extension service, who should know more about local conditions that may be causing subpar fruit. Here’s a link to the Oregon State University Extension Service, and another to the national directory. 

Hi Hubert,

If the leaves on your peach tree are not shriveling up anymore, that is a good thing. It’s hard to say if the warm winter will affect your peach tree. It’s true that most fruit trees need a set chilling period of dormancy, but the warmer winters that are occurring have not been happening long enough for anything more than guesswork. As for watering, your peach tree needs around 30 to 40 gallons of water a day during July and August, though combine that with rainfall and the amount you have been giving is probably close to what it needs. Continue with what you are doing. 

There are a number of reasons why this might be happening; scientists do not know for certain.
Here are a few theories:

• cultural/environmental factors that effect pollination, flower fertilization and fruit set.

• foliage damaged by diseases (scab, for example) and/or insects (stink bug or curculio have been suggested)

• fruit drop can be heavier on young, vigorous trees

• rainfall, esp after a dry period can cause fruit drop

• some scientists think competition for water and nutrients causes fruit drop (are they getting enough?)

You might want to contact your local cooperative extension service (find it here: http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services ). These folks are quite knowledgeable and may have experience with this or know someone who has…and can provide more insight.

Peach trees experience something called “June drop,” which is when they naturally thin our their fruits and drop most of the weakest ones in late spring or early summer. However, if your peach tree dropped all of its fruit, it could be due to a weak pollinating season, lack of water or nutrients, a late frost, or some sort of pest or disease. Or, like you said, it could have been squirrels and birds! It’s hard to know for sure. Next year, it certainly wouldn’t hurt to place netting over the tree once fruits start developing.

Hi, Darrel: Thank you for such an extensive description of your situation! It sounds like you have a handle on the watering situation, which is not to. Even though your new tree is high in the ground, it is still basically sitting on a pan of clay, which will keep water around. But to us the key here is “it produced [for] a couple of years.” If you don’t have/can’t see any disease/pests and if there is not too much water, then this tells us that your soil may have become deficient, particularly in nitrogen and/or potassium. So get a soil test kit from your local home or garden supply store or your USDA county extension and test both at the base of the tree and about 4 feet out. If necessary, amend the soil slowly and carefully to bring it to what your peach needs (do online research on this). If your soil is OK, then it is still a water issue and deeper drainage solutions may be necessary. Remember that while unlikely, it is possible that the top of your clay-y subsoil layer is not horizontal. You could actually be watering a surface that is even with or sloping away from the tree, but at the same time the clay layer underneath could be sloping toward the tree. Complicated, but the key thing is that it did well once, so let’s hope that it’s the soil. Thanks for asking and good luck!

Hi, George: Wow – we know somebody in Katy named George! Listen, it sounds as though your tree still has a chance, especially if you don’t see black or brown dead tissue. The buds are supposed to protect the green flower parts underneath, so hopefully this is exactly what they’ve done. Thanks for asking and good luck!