Growing Hostas

Zone is important but so is the microclimate and compass direction. If you are at altitude you might experience some more severe weather than lower areas. And if your sunlight is on the north side, it’s negligable. South would be best, west, reasonable. Can you bring the pots indoors, say a dark basement, and give them some moisture through the deepest part of winter? So it’s not an easy answer. But these are perennials so they have promise.

We would keep them in the greenhouse and check on them once in a while. If it’s prone to get hot, give them some moisture but not enough to freeze them at night.

Over a period of time, the crown may be too deeply set in the soil, what with mulch you may have applied. The general guidance is set the plants in a planting hole with the crown of the plant even with the surrounding soil and the growing tips visible at the soil surface. 

Lift them, shake them out, and replant like new entries. See additional guidance above.

Yes, hostas go dormant in our winter. The leaves fall off and the plant dies back. Yes, it may look dead but it’s not. It’s conserving energy until it grows again in early spring. 

Hi, Teena, 

For a long time the advice on growing hosta from seed had borne two caveats: 1) it can take a long time (2 to 3 years, according to some–but not all–reports) and 2) seed propagation does not produce a plant identical to the parent. Division (or tissue culture) has long been the primary ways of propagating hosta but as you and a few others demonstrate, seeds will grow. For anyone else who wants to try it, here’s advice from a couple of coop extension services: Hosta species can be propagated by seed.  Sexual propagation is mostly limited to producing plants from seed resulting from selected crosses by hosta hybridizers.  However, rarely does a good variegated hosta cultivar result from uncontrolled pollination. When seed has been produced, it can be directly planted or stored in a cool dry environment for a short term. This includes storage in a refrigerator, which allows storage for a longer amount of time. However, hosta seed viability varies greatly. Seed are broadcast on a fine textured medium and kept moist and at 60-75^oF in order to achieve good germination.  When true leaves appear, light is needed.  Both hybridizers and amateur gardeners alike must be diligent in culling out the unacceptable seedlings for planting.

Congratulations on your success!

Fair trade for eggs, no? ;-)

A low fence should keep them out of your beds, or try a portable chicken run–sort of a caged box, usually homemade.

The pine could be affecting the pH. One expert suggests that hostas grow best in an acid to slightly alkaline soil ranging from 5.5 to 7.5.

A soil test may be in order.

Hostas do not grow from seed. You need to buy hostas as dormant, bare-root divisions or potted plants. Visitt your local nursery and describe your conditions (direct sun, shade, etc.) and ask which best fit your space. Then see above for care tips.

You want to divide the plants, not just pull out leaves. Per above, if you wish to divide a hosta for a neater appearance, it’s best to do so in early spring once the ‘eyes’ or growing tips start to emerge from the ground. use the spade of a shovel on the outer edge, then push the spade into the center of the plant. Dig and lift the clump – which is actually a fresh new plant. Leave as much of the root attached as possible to each crown or plant. Transplant a hosta to a new site. Plant the new hostas at the same soil level as they were previously. Water well until established.

Of course, if you have no place to plant it, consider giving it to a friend or neighbor, or ask a community garden if it would be useful as a border plant. It would be a shame to simply discard it.

Show the plants some love—tough love—and leave them alone. As fairly hardy perennials they should survive; the brief spring chill was a shock and they suffered a set back. When the weather warms they should get back into their growth cycle. When they appear to be back to normal you could gently trim off some of the most faded foliage or just leave them alone.

Well, is this when they are due to come up? You give no clue to your location, and we can tell you that hostas are still in hiding in many parts of New England. Check the variety/type, if you know, and Google it or ask the folks/nursery from whom you bought it about its timing. If it does not appear at all, it could be that slugs got it … but don’t give up on it yet.

Hard to know exactly from your description, but if the eyes are missing more or less from the center, it could be crown rot. Not pretty but not unusual; in fact, natural. Hostas put on growth on the outside of their clump each year and dead growth accumulates in the center. Dig up the crown, roots and all, and cut out or cut away from the dead center. (This amounts to dividing the plant.) You can replant each smaller plant—or give away a few.

See above for your answer, Coyne

Hello, Miami! Thank you for your enthusiasm for the Almanac! Many plants, most hostas included, require a winter dormancy period. For most hostas, that minimum 30 days at temps below 43°F. (The need is genetic, so specific to the species.) A few species have lower requirements; these include Hosta clausa, Hosta gracillima, Hosta kikutii, Hosta longipes, Hosta montana (southern forms), Hosta nakaiana, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta rupifraga, Hosta sieboldii,Hosta ventricosa, Hosta venusta, and Hosta yingeri (thanks to plantdelights.com). However, these may fail to thrive and eventually deteriorate.

Your best bet is to visit a nursery in the area and ask them for recommendations. They would be most familiar with the conditions and so knowledgable about the options.

It’s hard to say for sure what the root issue is without knowing where you’re growing. Hostas naturally die back with the arrival of cooler temperatures in the fall, so you could be seeing that. Unless you live in a dry area, hostas don’t normally need extra water once they’re established, so if you are already getting regular rain, you may be overwatering. Especially at this time of year, when hostas aren’t actively growing, they can be susceptible to too much water. Luckily, they’re hardy and don’t have trouble bouncing back in the spring!