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How to Grow Pears: The Complete Guide

a pile of green pear fruits
Botanical Name
Pyrus
Grown as
Perennial
USDA Zones
3a
3b
4a
4b
5a
5b
6a
6b
7a
7b
8a
8b
9a
9b
10a
10b
Toxicity
Toxic to Dogs and Cats
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
10–20 feet
Spread
6-10 feet
Soil pH
Acidic
Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Fall
Flower Color
White
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Fall Color
Attracts Pollinators
Attracts Songbirds
Resilience
Cold Hardy
Heat-Tolerant
Plant Type
Fruit
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Biting into a juicy pear is one of life’s joys. Growing pears is generally easier than growing apples, as they have fewer pest and disease issues. They are easy to fit into small yard spaces, too! Learn more about planting pear trees in your backyard.

When growing pears, note that two cultivars are generally needed for successful pollination and fruit set. Most pear trees are not self-pollinating. You can also grow pears in containers—and plant them at any time of the year. Make sure you purchase pears specifically bred for containers.

Be aware that pears can take a few years or more to begin flowering and bear fruit. But once they start producing, pear trees are prolific and long-lasting!

There are many different types of pears; some are best eaten raw, and some are best for cooking. Learn more about pear varieties in this guide!

Planting

  • Plant pear trees in early spring. Order bare root plants in midwinter so that they arrive in time.
  • You’ll need full sun for the best fruit set, fertile, well-draining soil, and good air circulation.
  • If you live in the dry western regions, you should choose fire blight–resistant types and rootstocks.
  • Plan to plant at least two varieties of pear trees, as they will need to be cross-pollinated to produce fruit. Make sure the varieties are compatible with each other.
  • Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 12 to 15 feet apart.
  • For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
  • For grafted trees, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the sun when planting.
  • Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them. Do not add fertilizer or topsoil to the hole.

Check out our video to learn more about how to plant a bare–rooted fruit tree. 

Growing

  • Water the young trees well during dry spells to help establish the roots.
  • Apply a small amount of fertilizer early in the year. Add 1/8-pound of ammonium nitrate per tree multiplied by the number of years the tree has been set in moderately fertile soil. If you have highly fertile soil, use less fertilizer.
  • If the leaves are pale green or yellowish during the summer, use a little more fertilizer the following year.
  • If the tree grows more than 12 inches in one season, use less fertilizer the next year.
  • Be very careful when applying fertilizer! If you give your trees too much nitrogen, they will become more susceptible to fire blight and also may focus too much energy on producing foliage instead of flowers and fruit.

Pruning Pear Trees

  • Prune annually to keep the tree healthy. Generally, prune lightly to keep the trees looking their best and productive.
  • For dwarf trees, prune them to a central leader system.
  • Standard-size trees can be pruned to either a central leader system or a modified leader system, which is easier to maintain.
  • The central leader system features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year when you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree.
  • Use spreaders to help shape the branches of the trees. These help the branches to spread outward rather than upward. When the branches are small, you can use clothespins to push the branches away from the main trunk. For bigger branches, use wooden slats with a “V” shape notched into each end.
  • Remember to thin the fruit as well, leaving about 6 inches between each cluster of fruit per branch.
  • After your trees are established, water them regularly.

Harvesting

  • Harvest pears when they are mature but still hard. Ripen the pears at room temperature for the best quality fruits.
  • Mature pear trees produce a lot of fruit in a short window of time. Be prepared!
  • To store pears, pick them when they are fully grown but still very hard. You can keep them in the refrigerator; they should last for about 1 week. You can also keep them in containers in a cool (about 40°F), dark place; they should keep for 1 to 2 months.
  • You can also can the pears for longer storage.

Pests and Problems

Types

  • ‘Bartlett’, which is the standard choice for pear trees. This tree type is average-size and produces medium to large fruits. These pears ripen to a yellow color. However, this variety is very vulnerable to fire blight.
  • ‘Kieffer’, which is resistant to fire blight. This type produces medium fruit and can be used in canning.
  • ‘Anjou’, which produces light-green fruit with a sweet flavor. This type is a good choice for late-blooming pears. Good for canning and fresh use. This type can store for up to 6 months with little loss in quality.

Wit and Wisdom

Pick pears when the fruit has a faint yellow blush but is still green.

Drop peeled pears in cold, lightly salted water, and they won’t turn brown.

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Wyatt Komrosky</span> Wed, 07/09/2014 - 09:34
About a month ago I got what the tag said was a Gourmet Pear tree about a month later the leaves are turning reddish. The nurery looked at the leaves and said I need to fertilize with spikes. I was just wondering if I got the wrong tree and will it bear fruit.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 07/10/2014 - 09:32

You probably have a Gourmet pear tree and if it doesn't have small fruit by now you are not going to get any fruit this year.

Fertilize the tree and see if that will help. Red leaves can also be a sign of fire blight or crown rot.

 <span>Blue Sky</span> Sat, 05/24/2014 - 13:50
My pear tree has very little fruit.
<span>Blue Sky</span> Sat, 05/24/2014 - 13:48
How do I keep birds off my pear tree?
<span>Kriss</span> Wed, 07/23/2014 - 18:15
I use old computer disks. The ones with a shiny side. Tie them to the tree branches so they swing freely. They spin around in the breeze and the bright flashes scare the birds.
<span>Yoyo</span> Tue, 05/13/2014 - 14:30
My husband bought me a pear tree. Two years now and no blooms. It has big long thorns. What kind of pear tree is this?
<span>Stephanie Man</span> Mon, 04/28/2014 - 15:05
I planted pear trees last fall. They are doing great so far! The nursery said they were probably a few years old already so my question is am I supposed to pick the blooms off? I read somewhere that I should not let my trees produce fruit for a few years so the riits will be stronger. I cant find the information now though. Thank you !
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 04/29/2014 - 17:41

You'll want to thin the pears within the first month after bloom occurs, when the fruits are still marble-sized. End up with 8 inches between each fruit. Leave more fruit on the outer portion of the tree. You need to force yourself to thin or a young tree will be overburdened with the weight of the fruit and you'll risk having branches break.
With pears, you want to harvest before they are ripe. Do not let them ripen on the tree or it will affect the taste.  They should be firm and swollen, with a subtle color change to their skin.

 <span>Vickie Pence</span> Wed, 04/16/2014 - 15:38
We bought a house that has two pear trees that have not been cared for in at least 10 years. They are severely overgrown, have volunterers all around the bases, but produce fruit, although very small. One is wrapped in two or three vines of poison ivy/oak that wind throughout the branches as far up as you can see. How should I begin gaining control? Or are they hopeless?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Wed, 04/23/2014 - 08:57

Getting rid of poison ivy entwined in a tree is no easy task. Here's a page with tips:
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1015.html

As far as the pear tree goes, it's easy to renovate an old pear tree as long as it seems structurally sound enough to carry fruit. Here are tips on pruning old fruit trees: http://extension.psu.edu/plants/gardening/fphg/pome/pruning/pruning-a-special-case-renovating-old-fruit-trees