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Planting and Growing Rhubarb

Botanical Name
Rheum rhabarbarum
Grown as
Perennial
USDA Zones
3a
3b
4a
4b
5a
5b
6a
6b
7a
7b
Toxicity
Toxic to Dogs and Cats
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Partial Sun
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
3-6 feet
Spread
3-6 feet
Soil pH
Acidic
Neutral
Special Features
Cut Flower
Low Maintenance
Attracts Pollinators
Deer-resistant
Rabbit-resistant
Resilience
Cold Hardy
Plant Type
Vegetables
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

What grows for 10 years or more, suffers from almost no pests, and is refreshingly easy to care for? It’s rhubarb! This perennial vegetable has tart-flavored ruby or green stems used to make pies, crumbles, cakes, jams, and sauces. Learn how to plant, grow, and pick rhubarb correctly.

Rhubarb is easy to grow but needs a dormancy period to thrive and produce an abundance of huge stalks. Rhubarb does best where the average temperature falls below 40ºF (4°C) in the winter and below 75ºF (24°C) in the summer.

What’s lovely about rhubarb is that it’s a perennial: A healthy plant will remain productive for 10 years or more. For that reason, rhubarb should be planted in its own space in any corner of the garden where it can grow undisturbed. Rhubarb grows well in soil amended with plenty of well-rotted manure or compost; this has inspired some gardeners to plant it near their compost piles!

Planting

When to Plant Rhubarb

  • Rhubarb can be planted in late fall or early spring.
    • Plant rhubarb crowns after dormancy has set in in the fall, and you’ll have rhubarb cropping in the spring!
    • In spring, plant crowns when the soil is workable, when the roots are still dormant, and before growth begins (or as plants are just beginning to leaf out). If you have a temperature gauge, soil temperature should be 50°F minimum.

Spacing for Rhubarb

Where to Plant Rhubarb

Rhubarb grows best in full sun but will tolerate partial shade.

Choose a site with soil that is well-draining and fertile. Good drainage is essential, as rhubarb will rot if kept too wet. Mix compost, rotted manure, or anything high in organic matter into the soil. Rhubarb plants are heavy feeders and need this organic matter. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.

Rhubarb gets big! It can grow to 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. Make sure you choose a site where it won’t be crowded. 

How to Plant Rhubarb

  • Plant 1-year-old rhubarb crowns, which you can find at a garden center or nursery, or order online. Plants will be sold as bare-rooted specimens or young plants already growing in pots, ready for transplanting. (Rhubarb can be grown from seed, but this is not recommended.)
  • Before planting, eliminate all perennial weeds in the planting site.
  • Dig large, bushel-basket-size holes.
  • Space rhubarb plants about 2 to 4 feet apart and 3 to 4 feet between rows.
  • Plant crowns so the eyes are about 2 inches below the soil surface with buds facing up.
  • Water well at the time of planting.

Check out this video to learn more about how to plant rhubarb:

Growing

Overcrowding is a common problem with rhubarb and can lead to subpar growth. Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years. Divide when plants are dormant in early spring (or late fall). Divisions should have at least one large bud on them. 

  • Mulch generously with a heavy layer of straw to retain moisture and discourage weeds.
  • Water your plant well and consistently. Rhubarb needs sufficient moisture, especially during the hot, dry summer days.
  • Remove seed stalks as soon as they appear, as they will only drain energy from the plant that could be used to produce stalks or roots.
  • Each spring, apply a light sprinkling of fertilizer (10-10-10) when the ground is thawing or has just thawed. See your local frost dates.
  • In the fall, remove all plant debris. Once your ground freezes, it’s best to cover rhubarb with 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch, preferably well-rotted compost. By adding nitrogen to the soil, you’re preparing the rhubarb plants for a good spring season.

Rhubarb leaf

Harvesting

Do NOT harvest any stalks during the first growing season. Harvest sparingly in the second year. This allows your plants to become properly established.

  • After a plant’s third year, the harvest period (rhubarb season!) runs 8 to 10 weeks long, lasting through mid-summer.
  • Harvest stalks when they are 12 to 18 inches long and at least 3/4-inch in diameter. If the stalks become thin, stop harvesting; the plant’s food reserves are low.
  • Grab the base of the stalk and pull it away from the plant with a gentle twist. If this doesn’t work, you can cut the stalk at the base with a sharp knife. To prevent the spread of disease, be sure to sanitize the knife before cutting. Discard the leaves.
  • Always leave at least two stalks per plant to ensure continued production. You may have a bountiful harvest for well over 10 years without replacing your rhubarb plants.
  • It was once believed that the entire rhubarb plant became toxic as summer temperatures rose. This isn’t true, although summer-harvested stalks usually have a tougher texture than those picked in the spring. Nevertheless, after midsummer (July), it’s best to leave stalks on the plant to allow them to gather energy for next year’s growth.

How to Store Rhubarb

Cut the rhubarb stalks and refrigerate in a covered container. Or, tightly wrap stalks in plastic or aluminum foil and refrigerate. Rhubarb can be kept fresh in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks.

Cut rhubarb stalks into pieces, place them in a covered container or zip-type plastic bag, and put them in the freezer. Frozen rhubarb will last about a year.

Pests and Problems

Pests and diseases are rarely an issue with rhubarb, but it may be affected by the following problems.

Rhubarb Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
Botrytis (gray mold)FungusVaries; yellow/ brown/gray spots with water-soaked margins on leaves/flowers; gray mold; buds remain closed; stem lesions; wilt/rot; scorched appearance (“fire”) in some plantsDestroy infected parts/severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; good air circulation/sunlight; avoid overhead watering; prevent plant stress/injury; weed; rotation
Fungal leaf spotFungusVaries; leaf spots on lower leaves enlarge and turn brown/black; fuzzy growth or pustules in lesions; disease progresses upward; leaves dieDestroy infected leaves/ severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; resistant varieties; good air circulation; avoid overhead watering
Phytophthora crown and root rotOomyceteLeaves discolor/ wilt; dieback; oozing cankers near base; reddish brown discoloration of inner bark/wood; roots rot; plants slow-growing/stunted/dieDestroy infected plants and surrounding soil (do
not compost); prune out branch cankers; remove plant debris regularly; plant resistant varieties; prevent plant stress/injury; provide good drainage/do not overwater
Rhubarb curculioInsectWeevil-like beetle that bores into stalks/crowns; notches on stalks/leaves; holes in stalks leak sap; plants wilt/decayHandpick adults (appear in mid-May); destroy nearby host plants (sunflowers, thistle, dock) in mid-summer (July)
Slugs/snailsMolluskIrregular holes in leaves; slimy secretion on plants/soil; young stems “disappear”Handpick; avoid thick bark mulch; use copper plant collars; avoid overhead watering; lay boards on soil in evening, in morning lift and dispose of pests in hot, soapy water; drown in deep container of 1/2 inch of beer or of sugar water and yeast sunk to ground level; apply 1-inch-wide strip of diatomaceous earth

Toxicity
The stalks are the only edible part of the rhubarb plant. These have a rich, tart flavor when cooked. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are toxic. They contain an irritant called oxalic acid, so be sure that they are not ingested.

Types

These common varieties have attractive red stalks and excellent growers: 

  • ‘Canada Red’
  • ‘Crimson Red’
  • ‘MacDonald’
  • ‘Valentine’

In addition to the previous four, there is a reliable, green-stalked cultivar named:

  • ‘Victoria’

Wit and Wisdom

Rhubarb originally came from Asia. It was brought to Europe in the 1600s and to America shortly thereafter. It thrives in areas with a cooler climate, making it popular in northern gardens.

Rhubarb has many other uses, from medicinal to cosmetic. See how to naturally lighten your hair with rhubarb. 

Vegetables

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening, so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Sindy</span> Fri, 10/18/2019 - 23:46
Try mulching with straw and keeping the roots warm during the cold months. They need lots of sun. I have read an old method of making your Rhubarb grow longer and it worked for me. Get a dark container (an old pot so it fits over the rhubarb plant) when you see first signs of plant growing cover plant completely. In the dark they seem to want to grow. Check from time to time. If you have a container with a lid on it cut the bottom out and put over with lid on top when it is nearly at the top take the lid off and it will continue to grow longer. I have comfrey growing next to mine and throw the spent leaves next to Rhubarb to help with fertilising. Hope this helps.
<span>Dr. Pete</span> Wed, 07/10/2019 - 01:11
I've seen old cars buried behind barns and just about anything one can imagine. Some farmers used to spray around the barn quite heavily for flies or would use that spot to dump all kinds of waste oil, gasoline used to wash engine parts, etc. You could possibly have picked a toxic location. Does the rhubarb have the direct sunlight and water it needs? You could try mulching it good in the late fall with compost to see what happens or move some dormant split roots to a new location.
<span>Sondra</span> Thu, 06/13/2019 - 13:54
I don't have a good sunny spot to grown rhubarb in the ground, but am wondering if it will do okay in a pot that can be placed in a sunny location?
<span>Andrea</span> Wed, 08/14/2019 - 12:06
I decided to try my hand at growing rhubarb this year so I took a 55 gallon plastic drum that we used to use for rain water collection, cut it to about 30" tall, drilled drain holes in the bottom and filled with potting soil. A co-worker gifted me a piece of root from her established plant and I just put it in the new planter and hoped for the best. in less then 2 months I went from 1 small sickly looking leaf (that died off pretty quickly) to a barrel full of good, thick stalks. I will admit that I am not the best at watering it all the time, but we have had a rather wet year so that has helped... and my plant gets full sunlight for about 3/4 of the day. Thinking of getting another root and using the top half of the barrel that I cut off for a second planter in the future... I can't wait until next year where I can start harvesting!
<span>Lynette</span> Sat, 08/03/2019 - 05:02
Yes you can grow rhubarb in a pot. I found out accidentally. I bought two more plants but before I could plant them I broke my leg. I had a large pot, 24-30" across which was prepared for flowers. I ended up planting them in the pot thinking I might be able to plant them in the ground the next year. The pot is at the north east corner of my house so it gets sun but also shade later in the day. The next spring I was surprised to see the rhubarb in the pot was growing faster than the established ones in the ground. This year, after five years they are still growing faster. I was cutting my first rhubarb while other people's was only about 6". I have two plants in the planter. The first winter I covered them with a piece of fleece fabric. Second winter I put a little straw on them. The last couple years I haven't covered them at all. I live in Iowa so they do get covered with snow. The plants are bushy and healthy. I will never plant them in the ground again.
<span>Tracy Morris</span> Sun, 11/03/2019 - 19:39
I have four plants in containers and I'm wondering if I can leave them outside during the winter? I am in Illinois and live in an apartment building on the second floor. I have read they can be stored in an unheated room but that would mean moving these four heavy pots across town to my storage unit, something I would rather avoid if possible! Does anyone know anything about this? Any help is appreciated!
<span>Tim</span> Sun, 06/09/2019 - 20:32
Just acquired a flowering rhubarb plant from a garden at a home that my son and daughter-in-law purchased. What is the best way to transplant it into my yard.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Wed, 06/12/2019 - 12:51

Rhubarb is normally transplanted in early spring (before growth begins) or early fall (mid-September through early October). At this point, I guess get it in the ground as soon as you can. Rhubarb does best in fertile, well-drained soils and full sun. Translate into the garden with the buds 1 1/2 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Follow above plant care directions. Good luck!

 <span>Maryann</span> Fri, 05/31/2019 - 12:41
my rhubarb stalks are very thin. The entire is straggly looking..never gets big like see other peoples. Plants are in the open but seem to not even kill weeds or grass around them. They just aren't producing like they should. I even bought new plants because the old ones were not producing well. Do I need to replant somewhere else..get new plants and start completely over?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 06/04/2019 - 11:33

You do not say how old your plant is...but you need to give it about two years (tow growing seasons) to become established. Old plants become spindly and thin when they are overcrowded; they would need to be divided and replanted (whereupon the two-year establishment cycle would start again). It's also possible that your plant lacks vigor due to poor soil: Rhubarb is a heavy feeder: it loves organic matter such as aged manure and/or rich compost. It should get full sun and regular watering. Anything here sound like a fit?