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Snake Plant Care: How to Grow and Care for Mother-in-Law’s Tongue Indoors

Image Credit:
Myroslava Bozhko/Shutterstock
Botanical Name
Dracaena spp. (formerly: Sansevieria spp.)
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Partial Sun
Shade
Soil pH
Neutral
Flower Color
White
Plant Type
Houseplants
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Tough, stylish, and nearly indestructible—snake plants (a.k.a. Mother-in-Law’s Tongue) are the ultimate low-maintenance houseplant. Whether you’re a first-time plant parent or a seasoned green thumb, this striking succulent is your go-to for clean air and effortless greenery. Here’s how to keep it thriving in your home!

About Snake Plants

Native to southern Africa, snake plants are well adapted to conditions similar to those in southern regions of the United States. Because of this, they may be grown outdoors almost all year in USDA Zone 8 and warmer. However, they spread by sending out underground runners and may become invasive, so treat snake plants like you would bamboo; plant them only in contained areas or pots.

Too much water and freezing temperatures are two of the very few things that can affect this plant in a significant way. Soggy soil will cause root rot, and extended exposure to cold temperatures can damage the foliage.

Planting

How to Plant Snake Plants

  • Choose a pot with a drainage hole in the bottom. Terracotta pots work well for snake plants since they allow the soil to dry out more quickly than plastic pots.
  • Use a well-draining potting mix. A potting mix designed for cacti and succulents is ideal, as it will be more resistant to becoming oversaturated with water.
  • When repotting snake plants, don’t bury them too deep. The plant should be planted as deep as it had been in its prior container.

Choosing a Location in the Home

  • Snake plants prefer bright, indirect light and can even tolerate some direct sunlight. However, they also grow well (albeit more slowly) in shady corners and other low-light areas of the home.
    • Tip: Avoid moving your plant from a low-light area to direct sunlight too quickly, as this can shock the plant. Whenever you move plants from a darker to a lighter spot, gradually expose them to brighter and brighter light over a week or so. Also, be sure to adjust watering habits accordingly; plants will use more water in warmer, brighter areas.
  • Keep the plant in a warm spot with temperatures above 50°F (10°C). In the winter, protect it from drafty windows.
Potted snake plants in a nursery
Photo by Mokkie/Wikimedia Commons

Growing

How to Water Snake Plants

One of the most common problems encountered with snake plants (and other succulents) is overwatering. These plants do not tolerate soggy soil; they tend to develop root rot. To avoid this, follow these watering practices:

  • Do not water too frequently. Let the soil mostly dry out between waterings.
    • Tip: To know when it’s time to water, don’t just rely on how the surface of the soil looks. Instead, carefully stick your finger or a wooden chopstick a couple of inches into the soil. Hold off watering if you feel any moisture or see soil sticking to the chopstick.
  • Water from the bottom of the pot, if possible. This encourages the roots to grow downward and deep, helping to stabilize the thick, tall leaves.
  • During the winter, while the plant isn’t actively growing, water less often than you would in spring and summer.

Caring for Snake Plants

  • The large, flat leaves tend to collect dust; wipe them down with a damp cloth as needed.
  • Snake plants are rapid growers in good conditions and may need to be divided annually.
  • Divide and repot in the spring. Cut out a section containing leaves and roots and place it in a pot with a well-draining potting mix.
  • If a snake plant is pot-bound, it may flower occasionally. Fragrant, greenish-white flower clusters appear on tall spikes.

Pests and Problems

  • Root rot due to overwatering is the most common issue.
    • If this occurs, remove any dying leaves and allow the plant to dry out more than usual. Snake plants are resilient and typically recover. However, if the plant continues to die, remove it from its pot, discard any rotted roots and leaves, and repot in fresh soil.
  • Scale insects

Types

  • Dracaena trifasciata (aka Sansevieria trifasciata) is the most common species of snake plant. It has tall, dark-green leaves with light grayish-green horizontal stripes.
    • ‘Bantel’s Sensation’ — Narrow leaves have white vertical stripes and grow to about 3 feet long. This variety can be hard to find.
  • D. hahnii:
    • ‘Bird’s Nest’ — Short, wide leaves of dark and light green form a tight nest shape like a bromeliad. Leaves only grow 6 to 8 inches long. This variety does need much light to grow well.
    • ‘Golden Hahnii’ — Like the standard ‘Bird’s Nest’ but with leaves variegated along the edge in yellow.
  • D. cylindrica:
    • ‘Cylindrical Snake Plant’ — As its name suggests, this species of snake plant has cylindrical leaves that end in a fierce point.
    • ‘Starfish Snake Plant’ — The starfish snake plant has cylindrical leaves that fan out from its base, giving it a starfish-like shape.
  • D. masoniana:
    • ‘Whale Fin’ — These interesting snake plants have large, wide leaves that resemble the fin of a whale breaching the water’s surface.

Wit and Wisdom

  • According to NASA research, snake plants, spider plants, and peace lilies are reportedly very effective at cleaning the air, removing toxins such as formaldehyde. However, further studies are needed to determine the true extent of these plants’ air-purifying capabilities!
  • Dracaena trifasciata, a type of snake plant native to tropical Africa, yields a strong plant fiber and was once used to make bowstrings for hunting. For this reason, it also goes by the name “Bowstring Hemp.” 

Houseplant Guides

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Rylian</span> Wed, 01/29/2020 - 12:52
I wish it would add in the description if these plants are safe to have around your dog and cats. I only buy, both for outdoor and indoor, plants that are safe for my fur babies. Does anyone know if this one is ok to have with animals around?
<span>Georgis</span> Wed, 01/29/2020 - 11:02
I've always heard it called mother-in-law's tongue, and I bought a pot of it for my husband shortly after we got married :-) There were 3 or 4 plants in the pot, and they've always done just OK; once in a long while a new crown erupts. I've always kept it in moderate light, not too near windows. We moved a couple of years ago, and I installed it in a niche in the master bath near a western window. After about a year it suddenly took off. I guess it likes this particular indoor environment! I didn't even know the plant could bloom, but a few months ago it surprised me. I didn't notice much fragrance, but FYI, the blooms were extremely sticky, which spread to all the nearby leaves. One of these days I'll set it in the bathtub and give it a shower. I mistakenly thought it was a Bromeliad, so I've always watered into the center of the crowns. Doesn't seem to have hurt it!
<span>Lynda R Obee</span> Wed, 01/29/2020 - 09:13
I have a plant that I received at my fathers funeral in 1996 which I have transplanted into larger pots and it is now about five tall. Every spring I set it outside in a semi sunny area and every fall I bring in back into the house. I water it about once every ten days and do nothing more to it - should I be feeding it? Since I have never seen it flower does that mean it is not root bound?
<span>Paula</span> Wed, 01/29/2020 - 06:02
I have three from one plant that I divided a while ago. When I repotted them, the organic potting soil supposedly kept them fed for a few months. I've now bought a liquid fertilizer, but I'm unsure whether to start that now, in the winter, or wait until spring. The spring seems a more natural time to do so, but maybe indoor plants acclimate to an artificial (indoor) environment such that normal rules don't apply. Any thoughts?