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How to Plant, Grow, and Harvest Watermelon

Image Credit:
Pixabay
Botanical Name
Citrullus lanatus
Grown as
Annual
Toxicity
Non-toxic
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Water Needs
High
Height
1–3 feet
Spread
3-6 feet
Soil pH
Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Yellow
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Attracts Pollinators
Resilience
Heat-Tolerant
Plant Type
Fruit
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Watermelon is the ultimate summer treat—and growing your own makes it even sweeter! Whether you’re in a warm climate or working with a short season, this guide covers everything from planting to picking the perfect melon. Let’s get growing!

Because watermelons need a long period of warm weather to grow well, they tend to be more popular in warmer climates with long growing seasons. However, gardeners in colder climates can still successfully grow watermelons by starting seeds indoors or purchasing young plants from a nursery and growing shorter-season varieties. Depending on the variety of watermelon, it can take between 70 and 100 days to go from planting to harvest.

Planting

When to Plant Watermelons

  • In cool climates with short growing seasons, start seeds indoors 2 to 3 weeks before your last frost date. Plan to transplant seedlings into the garden about 2 weeks after that date or when the soil has warmed to at least 65°F (18°C).
  • In warmer climates with long growing seasons, sow seeds directly outdoors 1 to 2 weeks after your last frost date, as long as the soil temperature has warmed to at least 65°F (18°C).
  • Young watermelon plants can also be bought from nurseries. Plant these after there is no longer a chance of frost; they are very tender. Watch the local forecast and err on the side of caution! Consider laying black plastic over your planting area to warm the soil even more.
    • Tip: Starting with young plants can result in an earlier harvest (usually up to 2 weeks earlier), so consider buying young plants, particularly if you live in a cooler climate.

Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site

  • Amend soil with aged manure, seaweed, and/or compost before planting. Watermelons are heavy feeders, meaning they need soil that is fertile and has a high nutrient level. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
  • Watermelons do best in loamy, somewhat sandy, well-drained soil. They can struggle in soil that contains too much clay and doesn’t drain well.
  • Watermelons prefer a soil pH between 6.0 and 7.5 (“slightly acidic to neutral”).
  • Watermelons need A LOT of space—up to 20 square feet per plant. Their vines need room to sprawl, so plant them in a place where they won’t crowd out other crops.
  • Growing the vines in raised rows, known as hills, ensures good drainage and will hold the sun’s heat longer.
    • Plan to space the plants 2-3 feet apart in a 5-foot-wide hill.
    • If you’re growing in traditional rows, space them at least 6 feet apart. 

watermelon growing in a garden

How to Plant Watermelons

  • Sow seeds 1/2 to 1 inch deep outdoors or 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep in seed-starting pots indoors.
    • Tip: To allow for more root growth, use larger starting pots than you would for most seeds. Also, consider using compostable pots that can be cut away or planted directly in the garden, as this will minimize the risk of damaging seedlings’ tender roots during transplanting.
  • If direct seeding outdoors, sow 4 to 6 seeds per hill, eventually thinning to 2 to 3 seedlings. 

Transplanting Seedlings

  • Handle watermelon seedlings with extreme care when you transplant. Their roots are very fragile, so try not to disturb the soil when removing them from pots.
  • After transplanting, cover the plants with row covers to keep pests at bay. Remember to remove the row covers when you see both male and female flowers on the vine, as pollinators will need to access the flowers.
  • Find even more tips for planting melons in your home garden.

Growing

Watering Watermelons

  • Watering is very important—from planting until fruit begins to form. While melon plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit, they need 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
  • Keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Water at the vine’s base in the morning, and try to avoid wetting the leaves and avoid overhead watering. Reduce watering once fruit is growing. Dry weather produces the sweetest melon.

Fertilizing

  • If you choose to fertilize (and many do), make sure it delivers more nitrogen than phosphorus and potassium, as this will encourage leaf and vine growth. However, after flowering begins, use a fertilizer with less nitrogen to instead encourage flowers and fruit. We like to use a seaweed-based fertilizer.

Flowering and Fruiting

  • Vines produce male and female flowers separately on the same plant. They often begin producing male flowers several weeks before the females appear. Do not be concerned if the male flowers fall off. The female flowers (which have a swollen bulb at the base) will stay on the vine and bear fruit.
  • Blossoms require pollination to set fruit, so be kind to the bees!
  • As the fruit is ripening, prevent rotting by gently lifting it and putting cardboard or straw between the fruit and the soil.

Baby watermelon

General Watermelon Care Tips

  • Mulching with black plastic or straw around the plants will serve multiple purposes: it will warm the soil, hinder weed growth, and keep developing fruits off the soil.
  • Pruning generally isn’t necessary for watermelon plants, but vine productivity may be improved if you do not allow lateral (side) vines to grow and stick to the main vine. When the plant is young, just cut off the end buds as they form (before the side shoots become vines). You can also pinch off some blossoms to focus the energy on fewer melons (though it’s challenging to kill off a potential fruit).

Harvesting

Watermelons don’t continue ripening after they are picked, so harvest time is important. They generally ripen over a two-week period, so keep your eye on them.

How to Tell If a Watermelon Is Ripe

Dr. Bill Rhodes, professor of horticulture at Clemson University, offers the following advice on how to tell when watermelons are ripe:

  • Thump it. If the watermelon sounds hollow, it’s ripe.
  • Look at the color on the top. The watermelon is ripe when there is little contrast between the stripes.
  • Look at the color on the bottom. An immature watermelon will have a white bottom; a ripe melon will have a cream- or yellow-colored bottom.
  • Press on it. If the watermelon sounds like it gives a little, it’s ripe. (Note: Rhodes doesn’t like this method because it can ruin the quality of the fruit.)
  • Check the tendril. If it’s green, wait. If it’s half-dead, the watermelon is nearly ripe or ripe. If the tendril is fully dead, it’s ripe or overripe; it’s not going to get any riper, so you might as well pick!
  • Stems should be cut with a sharp knife close to the fruit.

Check out these tips for more ways to tell if a watermelon is ripe.

How to Store Watermelons

  • Watermelons can be stored uncut for about 10 days. If cut, they can last in the refrigerator for about 4 days. Wrap tightly in plastic.

Pests and Problems

Types

  • ‘Golden Midget’: 70 days to maturity. Bears petite, yellow-skinned, 3-pound melons with pink flesh. Good for northern gardeners.
  • ‘Sugar Baby’: 80 days to maturity. Produces 10-pound melons with bright red flesh. This variety of smaller fruit can be planted just 4 feet apart.
  • ‘Sweet Beauty’: 80 days to maturity. A 2004 All-America Selection. Bears 6-pound, oblong melons with red flesh.

Wit and Wisdom

  • What’s in a name? Watermelons are 90 percent water.
  • The pumpkin vine never bears watermelons.
  • August 3 is National Watermelon Day (U.S.)!

Fruit

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>William Douglas</span> Thu, 04/23/2015 - 10:35
I would be interested in buying the melon in large quantities What would your price be? How much would you be shipping at a time?
<span>Chaitanyaprabh…</span> Sat, 06/20/2015 - 08:34
Could you mail me your requirement? I can Supply Watermelon from India
<span>Ajala Elijah</span> Sat, 04/25/2015 - 03:44
@William Douglas, i can supply you watermelon.i am a nigerian,planning to start my watermelon commercial cultivation this september but i will get it from already established farms here in nigeria.my email is ajala_elijah@yahoo.com
<span>Lydiah Kwamboka</span> Sat, 04/18/2015 - 03:13
hi im lydiah from kenya also a first time grower and was curious on if you were able to get the names of the companies that buy melon
<span>Udoh Wallace George</span> Fri, 12/12/2014 - 23:04
I am interested in watemelon production. I will love to be taught the nitty gritty about it's seeds, planting season, weeding methods and all other principles that will give a better.yield.
<span>Nava</span> Mon, 10/06/2014 - 17:42
Can watermelon plant can be grown in plastic paint bucket....
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 10/07/2014 - 11:59

Hi, Nava: Five gallons is usually considered the minimum volume necessary to successfully grow a watermelon plant in a pot, so a regular plastic paint bucket of a gallon or two probably would not be sufficient. Think big!

 <span>Carolina Ambriz</span> Wed, 10/01/2014 - 15:46
We have some watermelons growing without us doing any planting we just ate watermelons and spit the seeds outside and they grew we have no idea when they will be ready or how big there auppose to get hopefully we don't wait to long or pick them to quickly. Help
<span>Jackie From Ill.</span> Mon, 09/22/2014 - 03:26
my watermelon plants are just now getting female flowers I'm afraid it's going to get too cold too soon is there any way to transplant them into the house using a trellis and a five pound bucket or will this just kill the plant anyway??
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 09/22/2014 - 12:17

You can certainly try this, but there is a possibility that it might shock the plant enough that it will die. You would also need to hand-pollinate the flowers (use a paintbrush to transfer pollen from a male flower to a female flower). Allow 8 hours of sun per day, and keep up with watering until fruit is fully developed. Keep temperatures warm.

 

Or, you might try keeping the plants outdoors and carefully placing black plastic down on the ground around the plant to help keep the soil warm. Also, put row covers over the plants to help protect them from frost; remove the row covers during the warm parts of the day so that pollinators can find the flowers, but put them back on as temperatures cool for the day and keep them on overnight. In either case, good luck!