Image Credit:
Pixabay
Botanical Name
Citrullus lanatus
Grown as
Toxicity
Sun Exposure
Water Needs
Height
Spread
Soil pH
Bloom Time
Flower Color
Special Features
Resilience
Plant Type
Planting
When to Plant Watermelons
- In cool climates with short growing seasons, start seeds indoors 2 to 3 weeks before your last frost date. Plan to transplant seedlings into the garden about 2 weeks after that date or when the soil has warmed to at least 65°F (18°C).
- In warmer climates with long growing seasons, sow seeds directly outdoors 1 to 2 weeks after your last frost date, as long as the soil temperature has warmed to at least 65°F (18°C).
- Young watermelon plants can also be bought from nurseries. Plant these after there is no longer a chance of frost; they are very tender. Watch the local forecast and err on the side of caution! Consider laying black plastic over your planting area to warm the soil even more.
- Tip: Starting with young plants can result in an earlier harvest (usually up to 2 weeks earlier), so consider buying young plants, particularly if you live in a cooler climate.
Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site
- Amend soil with aged manure, seaweed, and/or compost before planting. Watermelons are heavy feeders, meaning they need soil that is fertile and has a high nutrient level. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
- Watermelons do best in loamy, somewhat sandy, well-drained soil. They can struggle in soil that contains too much clay and doesn’t drain well.
- Watermelons prefer a soil pH between 6.0 and 7.5 (“slightly acidic to neutral”).
- Watermelons need A LOT of space—up to 20 square feet per plant. Their vines need room to sprawl, so plant them in a place where they won’t crowd out other crops.
- Growing the vines in raised rows, known as hills, ensures good drainage and will hold the sun’s heat longer.
- Plan to space the plants 2-3 feet apart in a 5-foot-wide hill.
- If you’re growing in traditional rows, space them at least 6 feet apart.
How to Plant Watermelons
- Sow seeds 1/2 to 1 inch deep outdoors or 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep in seed-starting pots indoors.
- Tip: To allow for more root growth, use larger starting pots than you would for most seeds. Also, consider using compostable pots that can be cut away or planted directly in the garden, as this will minimize the risk of damaging seedlings’ tender roots during transplanting.
- If direct seeding outdoors, sow 4 to 6 seeds per hill, eventually thinning to 2 to 3 seedlings.
Transplanting Seedlings
- Handle watermelon seedlings with extreme care when you transplant. Their roots are very fragile, so try not to disturb the soil when removing them from pots.
- After transplanting, cover the plants with row covers to keep pests at bay. Remember to remove the row covers when you see both male and female flowers on the vine, as pollinators will need to access the flowers.
- Find even more tips for planting melons in your home garden.
Growing
Watering Watermelons
- Watering is very important—from planting until fruit begins to form. While melon plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit, they need 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
- Keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Water at the vine’s base in the morning, and try to avoid wetting the leaves and avoid overhead watering. Reduce watering once fruit is growing. Dry weather produces the sweetest melon.
Fertilizing
- If you choose to fertilize (and many do), make sure it delivers more nitrogen than phosphorus and potassium, as this will encourage leaf and vine growth. However, after flowering begins, use a fertilizer with less nitrogen to instead encourage flowers and fruit. We like to use a seaweed-based fertilizer.
Flowering and Fruiting
- Vines produce male and female flowers separately on the same plant. They often begin producing male flowers several weeks before the females appear. Do not be concerned if the male flowers fall off. The female flowers (which have a swollen bulb at the base) will stay on the vine and bear fruit.
- Blossoms require pollination to set fruit, so be kind to the bees!
- As the fruit is ripening, prevent rotting by gently lifting it and putting cardboard or straw between the fruit and the soil.
General Watermelon Care Tips
- Mulching with black plastic or straw around the plants will serve multiple purposes: it will warm the soil, hinder weed growth, and keep developing fruits off the soil.
- Pruning generally isn’t necessary for watermelon plants, but vine productivity may be improved if you do not allow lateral (side) vines to grow and stick to the main vine. When the plant is young, just cut off the end buds as they form (before the side shoots become vines). You can also pinch off some blossoms to focus the energy on fewer melons (though it’s challenging to kill off a potential fruit).
Types
- ‘Golden Midget’: 70 days to maturity. Bears petite, yellow-skinned, 3-pound melons with pink flesh. Good for northern gardeners.
- ‘Sugar Baby’: 80 days to maturity. Produces 10-pound melons with bright red flesh. This variety of smaller fruit can be planted just 4 feet apart.
- ‘Sweet Beauty’: 80 days to maturity. A 2004 All-America Selection. Bears 6-pound, oblong melons with red flesh.
Hi! This is my first time planting a garden and we have watermelons, cantaloupe, squash, collard greens, cabbage and okra. My melons are all producing blooms but no fruit. We live in the south and the weather has been alot warmer earlier in the year and we haven't had much rain. I planted in late March and I water them every other day and use miracle grow once a week. Could you please tell me what we're doing wrong?
Melons have female and male flowers. Bees have to transfer pollen from one to the other. 1. Check your fruit. Sometimes it takes a few weeks to see the female flowers and you'll just see male blooms. The females have swelling balls (little melons) underneath. 2. If you have female blooms and no fruit, the usual reasons are high temperatures or lack of pollinators. Do you see lots of bees in the morning visiting the flowers? If you don't have bees, you could explore hand pollinating (and planting bee plants next year!).
thanks so much for your speedy response. i will continue to check my plants. i haven't seen many bees, only wasps and that could be because of the unusually high temps this year.
last year I planted watermelons and I had vines galore but only a few melons developed but didnt grow very well. this year I have melons galore but they are spliting open before they are completely ripe. the heart is ripe and sweet but they are all splitting open. what can I do to stop this if I can. Its been really really hot here everyday in the 90's.
Even though it sounds like it's been hot where you are, rain can cause melons to burst before they're ripe. It depends on where you are located, too. You may have poorer gardening conditions then you had previous years.
Cassie...This is happening in our garden as well!! If you received any good advice please let me know! Thanks :)
I do like the sugar baby watermelons. My absolute favorite is the Georgia Rattlesnake variety. Charleston gray is good also. Never cared that much for those with other than red flesh. Thanks for the ripeness tips!
I have another option for checking ripeness. An older Hispanic man saw me struggling to pick out a watermelon at the store one day. His suggestion was to first look at the end opposite the stem end to see if the little "button" is black. That's a good thing. Then, he said to rub my fingers across the rind. If it feels sticky, it's ready. I haven't picked a bad one since he offered his wonderful advice!
I live in Goldendale,Wa. I was out pulling goatheads from around our yard when I noticed another plant. Started to pull it and noticed what I thought was a cucumber. Turned out to be a watermelon. 5 grew to great tasting ones. I have 8 more growing. Never planted or expected them. Amazing
📣The Gardening Club Just Got Better! 3 Deliveries, 10% Store Discount, and more!
Comments