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I use a machetty instead of an axe , it cuts smoother and faster , also instead of plucking an old hen I skin them out like a dove, Start with a small cut on the underside of the neck and peel the bird out of the skin, quick and easy.
Putting down chickens is difficult for me. I raised meat Cornish/rock chickens and had laying hens, too. The layers would just fall over from old age!
The meats were easier because we did not consider them pets. Still, I had difficulty eating chicken for a couple of months after the kill.
Choose a cold day to do more than one hen.
Have a hot tub for removing feathers - next to this a work table.
Have a cold tub (filled evening before to be really cold.)
Have a cleaning table next to the chill tub.
Have a second cold tub for rinsing and chilling the chicken.
Have a third table for drying and wrapping. We used plastic wrap tightly done with butcher’s paper for the second wrap to keep them longer in the freezer without freezer burn.
Begin at holding the chicken face forward under your arm and resting on your hip. They will usually go docile at this point. Then, grasp their head by gently brushing back the head feathers to just behind the head. Next firmly pull and twist your hand upwards quickly holding the chicken until it is still. You should feel the dislocation of the head from neck. Holding until still protects the meat from any thrashing and you can take time to thank the chicken for being a big healthy chick.
Lay your chicken in a pile near your hot tub. Kill several at a time and then continue.
Hiding by theft, dip the chicken head first into the water Quickly so you don’t pre cook the meat and until the main feathers seem translucent or are easily pulled from the breast or back.
Pluck by rubbing most of the feathers off it is very easy and quick. The wing and tail feathers are more difficult to pull out. Don’t be tempted to dunk them again unless the breast or back feathers do not come off easily. I had to use pliers or let someone else do the tough feathers.
Place chicken into first cold tub and leave until totally chilled through maybe 1/2 hour. Keep adding chickens to the tub, but don’t over fill and make the water warmer.
Cleaning is easier because the blood goes to the vital organs, the head is intact, and the blood has congealed because of the very cold water. Be sure the chicken is TOTALLY cold.
Cut around the vent being careful to not damage intestines. Then remove the head. Reach inside the vent cut and gently pull out the offal and organs. The crop or gizzard is good eating as well as the heart and liver. Toss these into separate bowls or tubs. Then cut off the feet. Some peoples eat these in soup.
Place gutted, headless, footless chicken in the third cold water tub next to he wrapping station.
I used paper towels to dry out the main cavity and then the outside. If you want skinless chicken,
this is the time to pull off the skin with the paper towels. It is much easier this way.
Set a few chickens aside to air dry before wrapping tightly 3 or more times with plastic wrap followed by butcher’s paper. You can use masking tape to secure the last flap of the paper. Using an indelible marker put the date on the paper, not the tape because it sometime falls off.
No need for hours of fridge time, but put them a few at a time straight into your freezer.
No bleeding, no waiting to freeze, no hot messy guts, ether.
We would get together with other friends who also raised meats and become an assembly line of working together and sharing. Then it’s done until you return the favor with friends.
It may take a time or two until you get a grasp on how much force is needed to dislocate the heads without ripping them off.
Cheap bug control in the hen house...I begin with a large rubber feed tub or use a small, plastic wash tub from the hospital. (They can be found easily at thrift shops.)
I put in about 3/4 full of DRY peat moss. To this I add some yard sand, a small handful f garden lime and a generous handful of wood ash. Gently turn over with both hands until we’ll mixed.
I have never had a lice problem in any flock. I call this The Chicken Spa!
I will be glad to try and respond to any remarks or inquiries.
Good Wishes...
When you mix the bug control do you leave it in the tub or do you scatter it in the hen house?
Also I am having problems with finding broken eggs. I have tried putting golf balls in the nest but they just push them out. If I gather them in the afternoon they are fine, if I wait till morning when I feed them they are all broken and mostly pushed out of the nest.
I am coming off winter with about 90 hens. I fed them all winter and had great egg production. I want to go to pasture "only", and plenty of room. I have stopped feeding them. They are grazing on pasture stuff and seem quite happy. I have watched their egg production go from about 3.5 dozen a day to 1/2 dozen a day in 2 weeks time. However over that 2 week period their yolk color went from yellow to deep orange, and my customers love it. How do I get volume back up? Surely the commercial pasture egg guys don't go through this.
I was told that adding crushed hot red peppers to the feed would keep the hens laying. I tried it, and they kept up the egg production through the winter. My chickens were Rhode Island Red crosses and Barred Rocks, if it matters. I kept some roosters too, although I don't know whether they kept the hens active and whether or not that might contribute to discouraging the girls from getting idle during the winter months.
Your hens have probably recovered by now, but anytime you change feed you'll see a drop in egg laying. You'll also need to supplement with feed while they are on pasture. They will only get about 20%-30% of their diet from the pasture. To protect your pasture you should move them every couple of days.
Why would you not have a vet put your chicken to sleep if she is sick or in pain? Wouldn't that be more humane?
Mainly, expense? Vets charge a lot of money for an office visit, just to put a chicken to sleep. Most flock owners don't have the money to pay for that expense for something they don't consider 'pets'. There are exceptions, but also, most vets are not avian experts, and don't know the dosages to give for a chicken's euthanasia, and they will look at you like you're an idiot, knowing full well that you should be doing it yourself. If you can't kill a chicken yourself, then you have no business owning one.
I have a flock of three year old red sexlink hens who began pecking each other during their first molt. More than half have bald rumps or backs. They are free range on a half acre grassy orchard and seasonal garden. I have been told if I get a rooster the hens will stop this behavior.anyone have any advise?i have tried different feeds, wound spray, supplements all to no avail.
More than likely they're pulling the feathers off of each other to eat them, for extra minerals, and to speed up the process of molting. Recommend that you give them higher protein feed during the molt season, such as Nutrena's Feather Fixer formula. It will help tremendously.
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