Using straw as mulch in the garden saves money, crops, and sanity. (Note: Straw is not hay.) See the many benefits of mulching with straw bales in the vegetable garden.
No, I’m not Rumpelstiltskin, the cranky gnome in a Grimm fairy tale; I can’t spin straw into gold. But straw bales are inexpensive gold for gardens. I only pay $7 a bale, and the straw saves me hours of weeding, watering, and worrying. I get it from a farmer nearby. Numerous garden centers stock straw, too. Bales are huge; one will usually cover the garden. Just be sure that you are buying straw, not hay.
Everything in the vegetable garden is mulched with a 6-inch layer, including blueberries, Alpine strawberries, and cranberries. I use a foot or two of straw atop the potato bed to grow clean potatoes that can be easily harvested. Tubers form in the straw, and crops are always bigger when I use the straw mulch.
Straw is Not Hay
First, let me explain that straw is not hay. You don’t want to use hay, as it will cause nightmares and plenty of weed pulling. Hay is a grass that is primarily grown and cut for livestock. It is difficult to cut hay without at least some of the grass going to seed.
According to the University of Maryland Extension Service, “Straws are the dry hollow hay stalks remaining after cereal crops such as wheat or barley have been harvested. They contain few or no seed heads, especially when compared to hay”. Straw stalks don’t compact or mat. They’re also slow to decompose and don’t tie up nitrogen or other nutrients in the soil, making the perfect mulch.
Potato plants are grown in wooden beds and mulched with straw to protect against weeds and retain moisture. Photo: OlgaSolo
The Benefits of Straw Mulch
1. Straw Lets You Water Less Often
A thick blanket of straw keeps the moisture in the soil, radically slowing evaporation. Watering the garden once a week will be the norm rather than every day or two. They dry out a lot slower in hot, sunny weather.
If you live in an area of the country experiencing a rainfall shortage or drought, straw mulch is gold! I do. We’ve received only a tenth of normal rainfall and had a huge snow shortage last winter. The ground is so dry that it’s cracking in spots. But despite high temperatures and a lack of rain, I water the vegetable garden only once a week.
2. Straw Mulch Reduces Weeds
Straw blocks out the sun, preventing most weeds from germinating and growing. First, remove the weeds from your garden bed. Then, lay down the straw immediately.
If you’ve already seeded your vegetables, don’t lay straw on top of the seeds or seedlings. But everywhere else, there is exposed ground; lay down a nice thick layer of straw
It will not only keep weeds from growing but also keep the soil moist, soft, and workable.
Mulching around tomatoes can protect against blight, blossom-end rot, and more. Photo: Volodymyr Nikitenko
3. Straw Mulch Reduces Pests and Diseases
Straw also saves crops like tomatoes, peppers, and squash from developing blossom-end rot and cat-facing, blueberries from shriveling, and sweet peppers from turning hot.
Soil moisture stays even, and calcium can be transferred from the soil to tomatoes easily, preventing diseases.
Straw mulch at the base of tomato and pepper plants also prevents the transfer of soilborne diseases such as early blight to plant leaves. No water splashes up from the soil to the leaves because the straw absorbs it.
A thick straw mulch also fosters the growth of large pumpkins, winter squash, and watermelons. The mulch provides a clean blanket upon which melons and pumpkins can grow unblemished.
4. Straw Mulch Increases Nutrients in the Soil
Straw decomposes like any other organic material, but it’s much slower. As straw rots, it releases nutrients, feeding the plants growing in it. Straw actually makes your garden better. Genius, right?
Have you used straw for mulch? What other materials do you use to hold moisture in and prevent diseases?
Doreen Howard, an award-winning author, is the former garden editor at Woman’s Day. She has gardened in every climate zone from California to Texas to Oklahoma to the Midwest. She’s especially fond of...
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Wed, 06/07/2017 - 09:37
Pine straw can be an excellent option as an attractive mulch for flowers, trees, shrubs, and even the vegetable garden. It lasts longer than straw, and is denser, so you would apply about 3 inches thick, keeping it a few inches away from woody plant trunks (to discourage rodents). Apparently the rumor that it adds acidity to the soil is a myth (or if it does, it is very slight). Like some other mulches, it helps to keep weeds down, helps the soil to retain moisture, and insulates the soil, keeping plants cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Once it is broken down, you can work it into the soil to help structure. There is some question of it containing a chemical that inhibits seed germination--if you'd rather not take a chance, then apply it around transplants and established plants, or after seeds have sprouted. Of course, inhibiting weed seed germination would be helpful! You can find pine straw in bales at some garden centers. Hope this helps!
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<span>Jonathan Farr</span>Wed, 01/04/2017 - 20:05
Hey folks. Where would I get seedless straw to use as a mulch for the garden. I'm just outside Richmond, VA.
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<span>Max</span>Sat, 07/09/2016 - 11:38
I heard mention of a gardening technique called "Core Gardening" but I cannot see any other references to it. This approach has the gardener bury straw (do not know how much) down the center of the vegetable bed, about a foot down. It holds water for the bed and reduces watering needs to once every week or two. And plants will root in it as well. Have you ever heard about this? I have additionally read about tilling black molded straw in your garden, both autumn and spring. The black growth is "trichoderma harzianum" which also grows on gypsum drywall. This friendly mold cooperates with Mycorrhizae and enhances nutrient transfer to plant roots. It is also documented to speed up composting.
A much belated reply to this post, but I just stumbled upon it.
I didn't realize "core gardening" was an actual *thing*, but I did exactly that this year after greatly overestimating how much straw I needed for another project. Having barely made a dent in the bale I bought, I decided that burying a whole layer of it about 8-12 inches down in my garden might help with moisture retention and as a sort of "slow release compost/fertilizer." I also have super heavy clay soil that I am slowly trying to improve every year, and thought it might help with compaction.
I live in Southern NM, where it gets to be 110F on a regular basis, and so any anecdote I could give you about watering probably won't be relevant; moreover, we are also having a very hot year, so it's hard to tell if the mulch is helping with moisture retention. That said, it certainly isn't hurting.
On the other hand, it's REALLY helped with the soil compaction, and plants that typically would die because their roots couldn't get through my clay pot of a yard are flourishing! I even grew a bunch of potatoes in the clay soil, where I added the core of straw. This is the first time I've really been able to grow root vegetables without having to buy new dirt for the garden areas.
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Tue, 07/12/2016 - 12:05
Yes, Trichoderma harzianum in combination with Mycorrhizae can serve as disease suppressants. They are particularly effective in helping to control damping-off disease in tomato plants. As for "Core Gardening," you have piqued our interest! We came up empty-handed when researching the method. Perhaps you can aks your source for more information and share it with us? Could be a story....
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<span>Keith Norman</span>Sat, 11/05/2016 - 20:34
More info on MIgardener's youtube channel (search MIgardener core gardening). It sounds like a great method to me and I'm trying it in my fall garden now.
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<span>Eric</span>Thu, 07/12/2018 - 19:06
I plant my vegetable garden in 4 ft by 50 ft raised beds that are 15 inches high, with the soil that exists here (sandy loam), a core down the center that is 12 inches wide with straw wet down well, the core of straw is 10 inches deep, then the soil put back on top. I drip irrigate on the surface with a drip line with holes every 6 inches. I direct sow most seeds and mulch with 6 inches of straw on top of the drip line and around each plant once the seedlings emerge, then another 6 inches of straw when the plants are 12 inches or more tall. In my hot, dry climate where summer temps reach 100 to 110 at 12percent humidity, the soil stays perfectly moist 1 inch deep and all the way down with a watering schedule that is every other day for 10 minutes. The plants thrive, never get leaf diseases and produce intensively. Every winter here, which is very mild and rainy, I pull back the straw, Then top dress the soil with 1 inch of worm casings, and 1 inch of composted chicken manure, then put the straw back on top. This produces intensive results consistently.
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<span>Miranda</span>Sun, 06/19/2016 - 21:24
Hi,
I used straw for mulch this year but I am seeing sprouts come up out of the straw. Is this normal?
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Tue, 06/21/2016 - 13:44
It might be that the supplier didn't thresh before he baled, thereby leaving grain heads that are full of seeds. Luckily they pull out easily!
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