If you eliminate weeds in the first four weeks of growth, you stop them from stealing vital nutrients, water, and sunlight from your garden soil. The earlier you act, the less time you’ll spend battling weeds all season long.
The good news? You don’t need harsh chemicals to keep your garden under control. These natural weed control methods are safe, effective, and often improve your soil at the same time. Below, you’ll find a comparison chart to help you choose the best strategy for your garden — plus answers to common weed-control questions.
12 Natural Ways to Kill Weeds
Mulch Over Them
Use mulch (shredded leaves, brown cardboard, straw, or wood chips) to cover the soil around your plants! This covering blocks weed seeds from sunlight so they don’t germinate, inhibits growth underneath itself, and retains moisture. Mulch also provides needed nutrients as it decomposes over time and moderates soil temperatures.
Cover the soil between your plants and along rows with a layer of mulch to prevent weeds from growing. We recommend a layer that’s at least one inch thick.
Keep the mulch a few inches from the base of your plants to discourage insect invasions and prevent rot, too.
While we use organic mulch such as straw, there are also inorganic mulches, including black plastic and landscaping fabric.
Note: If you use leaf blowers, many come with shredders that can turn yard debris into garden mulch fast, which saves you the costs of making or buying your own mulch. See our mulching guide and mulch calculator.
Straw is used as mulch to suppress weeds, hold in moisture, and break down into the soil. Credit: Jurga Jot/Shutterstock
Exclude the Light
For persistent or numerous weeds, exclude light! Cover the soil with dampened newspaper (black ink only) or brown cardboard (with any tape removed). Then, cover that with 2 inches of straw or compost. This ensures that weeds don’t get the light they need to grow. Some persistent perennial weeds will still survive, but most will not grow through; hence, very little weeding is necessary. Plus, you’ll save on water and have happy worms and soil.
This works best, of course, when you are starting a new garden bed or a new garden space. Watch Janice Stillman, former editor of The Old Farmer’s Almanac, lay down a few layers of newspaper, wet it, add mulch on the edges, and dump compost on top of the newspaper bed! You’ll love having almost no weeds to contend with, and as a bonus, it helps build the soil. It couldn’t get any easier than this.
Pull or Dig Them Up
You’ll still need to pull out weeds during the season manually. It may not be your favorite chore, but it’s oddly therapeutic and almost meditative for some of us! Wear waterproof gloves and consider a comfortable kneeling pad or camp stool for extended weeding sessions.
Weeds will slide out of the soil more easily when the soil is wet and the weeds are young.
The trick to pulling weeds is to get the root out as well, since many common weeds—like dandelions—will regrow from any roots left in the ground. Pull the weed from its base (close to the soil line) and twist gently to dislodge the roots. If you accidentally snap the roots off, try using a fork to gently pry the rest of the plant out of the ground, roots and all.
If your weeds regrow, then you have a persistent root that you need to dig out. Use a spade or digging fork to dig up persistent weeds by the roots. Remove as many root pieces as you can.
While weeding, try to hold the trowel vertically (like a child holding a crayon) to eliminate strain on your wrist.
Homemade Herbicide Sprays
While some folks turn to dangerous chemicals, many weeds are resistant to herbicides and respond better to different methods of control. See 5 natural “weed killers” to get rid of competing plants while still keeping people, pets, wildlife, and waterways safe.
Hoe Them Down
When weeds have really sprung into action, nothing beats a good old-fashioned garden hoe with a long handle. Hoeing is best done in the morning when the soil is dry. The weeds will cut cleanly from the soil, creating a “dust mulch,” which inhibits the germination of new weeds. You can let the weeds dry in the sun during the day and then take them to the compost heap.
Make quick work of gliding through and getting to hard-to-reach spots. It’s especially useful early in the season. Once a week, even if there aren’t many weeds, quickly go over the surface and keep the soil moving. Over time, there won’t be many weeds left.
There’s nothing like the trusty hoe with the long handle! Keep it nice and sharp.
Minimize Soil Disruption
If you hoe, do not overturn the soil or dig down below the surface (no dig). We don’t want to expose the dormant weed seeds to light and air, which will only bring them back to the surface.
Some folks say it helps to weed at night! No kidding. Research indicates that weeds may be stimulated to grow by a sudden flash of light, which is what you give them when you turn the soil over during the day. A German study concluded that by turning the soil at night, weed germination could be reduced by as much as 78 percent! You can try this method by working under a full Moon, or at dawn or dusk.
Chop Off Their Heads!
If dealing with weeds is too much of a hassle, at least resolve to keep them from setting seed. Once a week, use a grass whip or string trimmer and cut off their heads before they flower.
Keep Your Garden Edges Trimmed
Have you ever noticed that many weeds collect at the edges of your yard or garden? Keep your grass and garden edges trimmed to reduce weed invasions in your fertile garden soil. The places to watch are not only the edges of your lawn but also around posts and fence lines and close to planting beds. Another idea is to grow perennials or ground roses that will shade those edges and make it easier for you!
Aerate Your Soil
Some types of weeds, especially those with deep roots, grow well because the soil is compacted. The plant’s roots aren’t getting the air, water, and nutrients they need, so the weeds start to take over. If you rent an aerator from your local home improvement store, you’ll be amazed at how providing annual aeration will reduce the amount of deep-rooted weeds.
Reduce Open Garden Space
If your soil is rich and drains well, plant your plants closer together. This will cut down weed growth. Start your warm-weather plants as soon as possible to keep the soil from being bare for too long. At the end of the season, plant cover crops such as ryegrass, winter wheat, or oats to prevent weeds from finding a home in your garden.
Avoid Watering Weeds
If you can water only the plants that need it, you may avoid cultivating weeds in unplanted areas, paths, and areas where they are not welcome—and where they would dry up if not watered!
Let Them Grow (Then Remove Them)
Encourage weeds to grow before you plant your garden. Lay sheets of clear plastic over your garden in early spring to warm the soil and encourage weeds to germinate. Once the weeds are several inches above the soil, pull or hoe them out. Then, plant your own crops.
Bonus: Edible Weeds You Can Use
Yes, some weeds—lamb’s quarters, amaranth, purslane, and others—are ediblewhen young and tender! Instead of destroying them, consider cultivation!
Natural Weed Control Comparison Chart
Method
Best For
Effort Level
Cost
Long-Term Prevention
Notes
Mulch (straw, wood chips)
Garden beds & rows
Low
Low–Medium
Excellent
Blocks sunlight & improves soil
Newspaper/Cardboard Layering
New beds
Low
Very Low
Excellent
Smothers weeds completely
Hand Pulling
Small areas
Medium
Free
Good
Best when soil is wet
Hoeing
Large areas
Medium
Low
Moderate
Most effective on young weeds
Vinegar Spray
Spot treatment
Low
Low
Temporary
Kills tops, not deep roots
Cover Crops
Off-season beds
Low
Low
Excellent
Prevents erosion & weeds
Aerating Soil
Compacted soil
Medium
Medium
Moderate
Helps plants outcompete weeds
Close Plant Spacing
Vegetable gardens
Low
Free
Good
Reduces open soil space
Best Cover Crops for Weed Prevention
Also, at the end of the season, after you harvest your veggies, plant cover crops like wheat, clover, and barley. They are beneficial plants that give back to the soil but keep weeds from growing and soil erosion from occurring. In some situations, you can use a cover crop in the shoulder seasons to block out weeds. See our list of cover crops.
How to Identify Common Garden Weeds
Above all, knowing how to identify the most invasive and destructive weeds is key to keeping your garden defended from weeds. Check out our list of common weeds to help identify what’s growing in your garden and learn how best to get rid of it.
Here are a few common weeds and the best ways to remove them:
Common Weeds and Treatments
Weed
Image
Treatment
Buckhorn Plantain
Dig out before it flowers.
Bull Thistle
Pull or cultivate out before it produces seeds. Be sure to wear gloves!
Common Burdock
Dig or pull out before it produces seeds. Be sure to get the whole root.
In this video, we demonstrate some weeding techniques and explain which methods work best for different types of weeds. We also discuss how to use mulches and weed barriers for future protection.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the fastest way to kill weeds naturally?
For quick results, hoeing young weeds on a dry morning or using a vinegar spray for spot treatment works fastest. However, mulch provides longer-lasting prevention.
Does vinegar permanently kill weeds?
Vinegar burns the leaves but usually doesn’t kill deep roots. It works best on small, newly sprouted weeds and may require repeat applications.
How do I stop weeds from growing back?
Prevention is key. Apply mulch 1–2 inches thick, avoid disturbing the soil too much, and plant cover crops in the off-season to block weed growth.
Is mulch better than landscape fabric?
Organic mulch (like straw or wood chips) improves soil health as it decomposes. Landscape fabric blocks weeds but does not enrich the soil and can make planting more difficult over time.
When is the best time to remove weeds?
The earlier, the better. Remove weeds within their first four weeks of growth and always pull them before they flower and set seed.
Do you have any tried and true tips for weed removal? Tell us about them in the comments!
Catherine Boeckmann is the Executive Digital Editor of Almanac.com, the digital home of The Old Farmer’s Almanac. She leads digital editorial strategy and publishing across a wide range of Almanac sub...
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Fri, 07/25/2014 - 07:14
You might need to wait until next year as purslane is difficult to control too late in the season. The #1 rule is do not let it go to seed. About 3 weeks after you spot seeds, it will go to seed so you need to get rid of it early. The best solution to control purslane is probably mulching (supressing). Don't run a tiller through purslane or you'll just multiple them!
Or, eat them! Purslane has actually become a popular plant to eat when it's young and tender--in salads or sandwiches, lightly steamed or stir-fried--As long as it hasn't been treated with pesticides!
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<span>Andy152R</span>Sat, 03/15/2014 - 00:59
I have had an issue my past year. I'm relatively new to gardening, besides hydro. I have a 40X40ft garden I started last year. I had over 90 tomato plants, peppers and lots of leafy greens. My question is not just weeds, but pests. My garden got overgrown last year, while I was trying to fix my hoarder in-laws whole yard by myself (We are staying there while our house is built across the road). All 5 acres. The garden got overgrown and bugs did the rest. I had good tomatoes and peppers, but everything else was wasted. What can I do to grow things like spinach, lettuce and others to make sure bugs don't do the damage like last year? I can weed pull, and have already started prepping. I dozed the tops of the dead weeds with my plow blade on my tractor. I plan to have a guy come out and disc till soon. I tried to root asparagus last year, but I think it will have to come up with the weeds. What is the best approach I can take before planting my indoor seedlings? Any help would be great. Thanks!
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Tue, 03/18/2014 - 15:21
Hi Andy,
You can go to our vegetable guides page and click on the vegetables that you are growing to get advice about insects and other pests.
I have Oxeye Daisy and don't now how to get rid of it! Please help!
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Sat, 09/28/2013 - 03:55
Here is a good reference on control of the Oxeye daisy:
http://www.unce.unr.edu/publications/files/ag/2006/fs0617.pdf
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<span>Ad</span>Sat, 08/03/2013 - 07:11
Can't get rid of them
We have 16 fairly large gardens and we put a type of weed preventer cover/roll along with 2 inches of mulch but weeds still rapidly grow in ALL of them. Please helpas iI am open to any suggestion. Thank You.
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Wed, 08/07/2013 - 11:03
Are these ornamental garden beds? If so, you might try some groundcovers to help crowd out the weeds. Also, be sure to monitor the weed barrier to check for tears etc. Remove and renew mulch that has disintegrated, which makes a nice medium for weed seeds to grow in. Keep up with weeds when they are small, so they don't go to seed, or spread by underground runners.
(For new beds, remove any weeds, till the soil once and let sit a few weeks; remove weeds; till the soil again; install a weed barrier; put on 2 or 3 inches of mulch or a thick layer of newspaper; then plant.)
You might also try a pre-emergent herbicide, which is a chemical that helps to inhibit the germination of weed seeds (and any seeds); it does not harm established plants (including established weeds), although check the label to make sure, especially if you are applying it near edibles. You can find these in garden centers.
If you rather use an organic method of pre-emergent weed control, try corn gluten, available online or in garden centers. For more information, see:
http://www.hort.iastate.edu/research/gluten/
Hope this helps!
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<span>Sharon T</span>Sun, 05/05/2013 - 12:34
I have been trying to get rid of a grass that keeps growing through the root system in my flower beds. I have tried everything to get rid of it. What would happen if I took out all my plants and roto tilled it and raked it up from there and put a weed preventer on it then. I just cant get rid of them not even with 4 inches of mulch.
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<span>Cindy Hoods</span>Sun, 06/16/2013 - 10:57
Sharon t, what kind of grass is it? If it's something like torpedo grass, the method you mentioned will not work. If it's a simpler grass, it might. We need to know exactly what type of grass it is.
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<span>Sunshinesue</span>Sun, 04/21/2013 - 11:13
Trying to get weeds at early stage before plants start growing. Also live in michigan near grand rapids. Have a question on what kind of vinager disstelled or apple.
You might need to wait until next year as purslane is difficult to control too late in the season. The #1 rule is do not let it go to seed. About 3 weeks after you spot seeds, it will go to seed so you need to get rid of it early. The best solution to control purslane is probably mulching (supressing). Don't run a tiller through purslane or you'll just multiple them!
Or, eat them! Purslane has actually become a popular plant to eat when it's young and tender--in salads or sandwiches, lightly steamed or stir-fried--As long as it hasn't been treated with pesticides!