The black walnut tree (Juglans nigra) is one of North America’s most valuable and beautiful native trees, but it does have a “dark side.” Here’s what you should know before planting a black walnut in your yard—and how to harvest and eat the tasty black walnuts too!
Facts About the Black Walnut Tree
The easily worked, close-grained wood of the black walnut has long been prized by cabinet- and furniture-makers for its attractive color and exceptional durability. Black walnut logs are in such demand for veneer that “walnut rustlers” have made off with trees in the dead of night and even used helicopters in their operations.
Early settlers discovered black walnuts growing in mixed forests from Canada to northern Florida and west to the Great Plains. They found that their rich-brown heartwood was exceptionally resistant to decay and used it for fence posts, poles, shingles, and sills.
When surrounded by other trees in the forest, black walnuts grow straight and tall with few, if any, lower branches.
When planted in the open, the tree will branch out closer to the ground, developing a spreading shape that makes it easier to harvest its sweet, round, 2- to 3-inch nuts.
Settlers snacked on the nutritious walnuts out of hand, added them to soups and stews, and ground them into a meal for baking; the hard shells provided a perfect package for storing the nuts over winter.
What Is Juglone?
Although the black walnut has many uses and benefits, the tree does come with a caveat: the black walnut’s roots, which may extend 50 feet or more from the trunk, exude a natural herbicide known as juglone. This substance is also found in the tree’s leaves and fruit husks.
Juglone does serve a purpose, though. It inhibits many plants’ growth under and around the tree, thereby limiting the tree’s competition and leaving more water and nutrients for itself.
Tomatoes, potatoes, apples, pears, berries, and some landscape plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, and lilacs may be killed or stunted if grown close to black walnut roots or within the tree’s drip line (i.e., under the tree’s canopy). Plan your landscaping accordingly!
Juglone Plant Susceptibility Chart
Highly Susceptible (Avoid Planting Near Black Walnut)
Tolerant (Safe to Plant Near Black Walnut)
Tomato
Corn
Potato
Beans
Eggplant
Carrots
Peppers
Beets
Apple Trees
Onions
Pear Trees
Cherry Trees (some varieties)
Blueberries
Black Raspberry
Rhododendrons
Pawpaw Tree
Azaleas
Red Maple
Lilacs
Hickory
Mountain Laurel
Oak (most species)
Hydrangea
Dogwood
A Great Shade Tree
Black walnuts make great shade trees for larger properties. They commonly grow to 50 feet or taller and about as wide, but specimens of more than 100 feet have been recorded.
Black walnut’s large, fernlike foliage provides light, airy shade for those grasses and ground covers unaffected by juglone. The leaves turn bright yellow in autumn, contrasting nicely with the tree’s rugged, dark bark.
Black walnuts require deep, fertile soil with a near-neutral or slightly acidic pH. They are pretty much disease-free and are threatened by a few pests.
How to Harvest Black Walnuts
Thud! Thud! Most walnut tree owners have a love/hate relationship because of the fruit the tree drops in late summer through October. The fruit is quite heavy, the size of a baseball, and lime green in color. It makes quite a mess and can be viewed as a nuisance.
Walnut tree owners will spend hours picking up the fruit in some years. If you don’t remove the nuts, you’ll trip over them in the dark for the rest of the year (while they rot and mold on your lawn). Hire the kid down the street to pick up those dropped walnuts (just be careful not to pay per nut—you’ll go broke)!
Photo Credit: John A. Anderson
If you’re willing to crack the outer shell, the “meat” inside is edible, as the squirrels will attest; squirrels have little problem chewing through the shells. (Note: Black walnuts are different from English walnuts, which are more commonly sold in stores and shown in the photo above.)
The sweet, earthy nutmeat inside is well worth the effort. Your grandparents may have harvested walnuts, which can be eaten raw or added to baking (cookies and bars). They can also be used as toppings on ice cream and cakes, enjoyed as a sweetened candy nut, or ground into a meal for a unique flour.
How to Harvest Black Walnuts
To harvest, collect the nuts as soon as possible to avoid mold and remove the husks immediately.
Wear gloves as the husks stain your hands (and anything they touch). If the nut is too hard, wait a few days, and it will brown and soften up.)
To remove the husk, you can step on them gently with an old pair of shoes. Hose down the nuts in a large bucket to remove any remaining husk.
Dry the walnuts for a couple of weeks on a screen, drying rack, or in a hanging mesh bag. You can store them unshelled for up to a year.
Crack the shell with a hammer to get to the nut meat. (Strike at a 90-degree angle to the seam until the nut cracks). Use pliers to easily clip away the shell to release the nutmeat.
Allow the freshly removed nutmeat to dry for a day before storing.
Do you have a black walnut tree? Please share your comments, questions, and advice!
George and Becky Lohmiller shared their gardening knowledge and enthusiasm with Almanac readers for more than 15 years, writing Farmer’s Calendar essays and gardening articles in previous editions of The Old Farmer’s Almanac.
I think my walnut tree is dying. A small section as fallen off with just a touch. It's at least 110 years old. What should I do?
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<span>Jon</span>Sun, 11/08/2020 - 11:13
If the walnut fruit husk has begun to rot on the ground is it too late to harvest? Basically, can you just let the walnut husk rot away and still keep the nut or will it rot too?
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Mon, 11/09/2020 - 15:30
It really depends on how far gone the husk is. If the husk is completely rotted, we wouldn't recommend keeping that nut, as the nut will have been left exposed to fungi and pests that could have penetrated the shell. However, if the husk looks like it's only just started to break apart, you can get away with collecting the nut.
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<span>Waymon Young</span>Sun, 11/08/2020 - 03:06
I use a small cement mixer,run for about 20 min for each batch of 5 gallon, wtth water
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<span>Lynn</span>Thu, 10/15/2020 - 21:38
If you don't clear the fruit from your yard, or if you leave a small pile in a corner, you will be "blessed" with a completely bare patch of soil for a year. Ask me how I know.... The last time the wind blows as many walnuts seem to fall as have fallen all summer and fall together.
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<span>Elaine</span>Tue, 09/29/2020 - 08:48
Are there people that buy very old black walnut trees? I have 3 very old trees in my yard and was thinking of getting rid of some.
I have also been told that black walnuts are toxic to horses and can cause severe colic. Black walnuts should never be on a property where horses are kept.
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Wed, 09/30/2020 - 16:07
Yes, indeed. There is a similar comment lower on this page. Horses are generally only affected by shavings made from the tree. Do NOT use in bedding.
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<span>Naomi M</span>Mon, 09/28/2020 - 09:34
I have a black walnut tree in my backyard. Its super beautiful and provides a nice shady cover for the hot Mid-Atlantic summers. The biggest problems is that it attracts squirrels (aka tree demons). They not only steal all my tomatoes, dig holes everywhere, but they also have been chewing my outdoor lights and stealing the bulbs. They are cute buggers but what I pain - I never knew they were such a nuisance.
I have read that before contemporary road paving, that many early 1800s rods were paved with black walnut slats. The wood was plentiful, inexpensive, tends to resist rot and last longer in the damp earth than other wood. It was an effective way to maintain roads in mud seasons. In earlier times there were giant black walnut trees, 30' in circumference and more than 200' tall. These were all cut to pave roads.
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