The black walnut tree (Juglans nigra) is one of North America’s most valuable and beautiful native trees, but it does have a “dark side.” Here’s what you should know before planting a black walnut in your yard—and how to harvest and eat the tasty black walnuts too!
Facts About the Black Walnut Tree
The easily worked, close-grained wood of the black walnut has long been prized by cabinet- and furniture-makers for its attractive color and exceptional durability. Black walnut logs are in such demand for veneer that “walnut rustlers” have made off with trees in the dead of night and even used helicopters in their operations.
Early settlers discovered black walnuts growing in mixed forests from Canada to northern Florida and west to the Great Plains. They found that their rich-brown heartwood was exceptionally resistant to decay and used it for fence posts, poles, shingles, and sills.
When surrounded by other trees in the forest, black walnuts grow straight and tall with few, if any, lower branches.
When planted in the open, the tree will branch out closer to the ground, developing a spreading shape that makes it easier to harvest its sweet, round, 2- to 3-inch nuts.
Settlers snacked on the nutritious walnuts out of hand, added them to soups and stews, and ground them into a meal for baking; the hard shells provided a perfect package for storing the nuts over winter.
What Is Juglone?
Although the black walnut has many uses and benefits, the tree does come with a caveat: the black walnut’s roots, which may extend 50 feet or more from the trunk, exude a natural herbicide known as juglone. This substance is also found in the tree’s leaves and fruit husks.
Juglone does serve a purpose, though. It inhibits many plants’ growth under and around the tree, thereby limiting the tree’s competition and leaving more water and nutrients for itself.
Tomatoes, potatoes, apples, pears, berries, and some landscape plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, and lilacs may be killed or stunted if grown close to black walnut roots or within the tree’s drip line (i.e., under the tree’s canopy). Plan your landscaping accordingly!
Juglone Plant Susceptibility Chart
Highly Susceptible (Avoid Planting Near Black Walnut)
Tolerant (Safe to Plant Near Black Walnut)
Tomato
Corn
Potato
Beans
Eggplant
Carrots
Peppers
Beets
Apple Trees
Onions
Pear Trees
Cherry Trees (some varieties)
Blueberries
Black Raspberry
Rhododendrons
Pawpaw Tree
Azaleas
Red Maple
Lilacs
Hickory
Mountain Laurel
Oak (most species)
Hydrangea
Dogwood
A Great Shade Tree
Black walnuts make great shade trees for larger properties. They commonly grow to 50 feet or taller and about as wide, but specimens of more than 100 feet have been recorded.
Black walnut’s large, fernlike foliage provides light, airy shade for those grasses and ground covers unaffected by juglone. The leaves turn bright yellow in autumn, contrasting nicely with the tree’s rugged, dark bark.
Black walnuts require deep, fertile soil with a near-neutral or slightly acidic pH. They are pretty much disease-free and are threatened by a few pests.
How to Harvest Black Walnuts
Thud! Thud! Most walnut tree owners have a love/hate relationship because of the fruit the tree drops in late summer through October. The fruit is quite heavy, the size of a baseball, and lime green in color. It makes quite a mess and can be viewed as a nuisance.
Walnut tree owners will spend hours picking up the fruit in some years. If you don’t remove the nuts, you’ll trip over them in the dark for the rest of the year (while they rot and mold on your lawn). Hire the kid down the street to pick up those dropped walnuts (just be careful not to pay per nut—you’ll go broke)!
Photo Credit: John A. Anderson
If you’re willing to crack the outer shell, the “meat” inside is edible, as the squirrels will attest; squirrels have little problem chewing through the shells. (Note: Black walnuts are different from English walnuts, which are more commonly sold in stores and shown in the photo above.)
The sweet, earthy nutmeat inside is well worth the effort. Your grandparents may have harvested walnuts, which can be eaten raw or added to baking (cookies and bars). They can also be used as toppings on ice cream and cakes, enjoyed as a sweetened candy nut, or ground into a meal for a unique flour.
How to Harvest Black Walnuts
To harvest, collect the nuts as soon as possible to avoid mold and remove the husks immediately.
Wear gloves as the husks stain your hands (and anything they touch). If the nut is too hard, wait a few days, and it will brown and soften up.)
To remove the husk, you can step on them gently with an old pair of shoes. Hose down the nuts in a large bucket to remove any remaining husk.
Dry the walnuts for a couple of weeks on a screen, drying rack, or in a hanging mesh bag. You can store them unshelled for up to a year.
Crack the shell with a hammer to get to the nut meat. (Strike at a 90-degree angle to the seam until the nut cracks). Use pliers to easily clip away the shell to release the nutmeat.
Allow the freshly removed nutmeat to dry for a day before storing.
Do you have a black walnut tree? Please share your comments, questions, and advice!
George and Becky Lohmiller shared their gardening knowledge and enthusiasm with Almanac readers for more than 15 years, writing Farmer’s Calendar essays and gardening articles in previous editions of The Old Farmer’s Almanac.
We were told by a tree trimmer that black walnut trees are subject to emerald ash disease, and that we should get something like ash borer treatment (not sure that is the correct wording) for it. Is this true?
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Fri, 03/10/2017 - 15:02
Emerald ash borer is apparently a threat to black walnut and other trees in much of the country. We are not qualified to comment on treatment; we advise that you consult with an arborist. Your local cooperative extension service may be able to help you identify one; find your state and click here for coop extensions: http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services
FWIW, this page identifies numerous treatments for the EAB, as it is often called: http://hort.uwex.edu/articles/homeowner-guide-emerald-ash-borer-insecticide-treatments/
We do not and cannot recommend or otherwise give any judgment on the products mentioned on that page; we provide it only for your general information.
I have more than a dozen black walnut trees in my yard. I would love to have a veggie garden or plant some rose bushes or fruit trees. I am open to any plants that will grow. I live in zone 7(a). What will grow in my yard with these trees surrounding me!?
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<span>Anne</span>Tue, 07/25/2017 - 11:17
I built 2 raised vegetable garden beds (filled with a mixture of compost, sand and peat moss) near my mature black walnut tree and have had no issues with anything struggling to grow. It's not close enough to be under any of the branches (obviously shade isn't great for growing vegetables anyway) so I would imagine a vegetable garden would be fine as long as you're growing the vegetables in "fresh" soil and not soil shared by the walnut tree roots.
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<span>Amie</span>Sun, 03/05/2017 - 20:41
I moved into an old farm house w a couple black walnuts on the property. I haven't tried to grow anything near my trees. But, there were already established black mulberry and honeysuckle tree/bushes in the same area. The mulberry and walnut touch branches. They are around a car length apart. I have harvested the nuts for baking and made wood stain from the hulls.
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Tue, 02/21/2017 - 16:18
Wow, that's a great question, but it is not one that we are prepared to answer. We do not know what your options are, but we can recommend that you contact your local coop extension service (usually part of a college or university) or a local nursery. You could have a specialist come to see your site, but that might incur expense. No matter what course you take next, it is not going to be easy making choices or decisions. Give yourself time...do it once, the way you really want it.
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<span>R.guidroz</span>Wed, 01/04/2017 - 18:16
Hi. I am wondering if left on the ground will a walnut, even with the husk on, eventually take root if all the conditions are optimum? Would the rotting husk give way to a shoot coming through the hard shell? How does it work? How long would it roughly take from new nut on ground to seedling or sapling stage? Thank you!
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<span>Ryan</span>Tue, 05/09/2017 - 22:33
Yes. Seeds in the ground will just sprout and grow. We have dozens of black walnut trees on our property. My yard is basically a walnut nursery. I have hundreds of them all over the place. The previous owners just let the nuts fall. I'm sure many of them have been mowed down year after year. Either way, yeah, stick them in the ground and they will grow! It probably does take a few years to cold stratefy and break through the shell.
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<span>Ryan</span>Tue, 05/09/2017 - 22:33
Yes. Seeds in the ground will just sprout and grow. We have dozens of black walnut trees on our property. My yard is basically a walnut nursery. I have hundreds of them all over the place. The previous owners just let the nuts fall. I'm sure many of them have been mowed down year after year. Either way, yeah, stick them in the ground and they will grow! It probably does take a few years to cold stratefy and break through the shell.
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<span>Amie</span>Sun, 03/05/2017 - 20:46
I've heard that planting the whole husk will help break down the walnut for germination. Not sure if this is accurate and have never tried it. I would consider attempting both to see if there is a noticeable difference.
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