The black walnut tree (Juglans nigra) is one of North America’s most valuable and beautiful native trees, but it does have a “dark side.” Here’s what you should know before planting a black walnut in your yard—and how to harvest and eat the tasty black walnuts too!
Facts About the Black Walnut Tree
The easily worked, close-grained wood of the black walnut has long been prized by cabinet- and furniture-makers for its attractive color and exceptional durability. Black walnut logs are in such demand for veneer that “walnut rustlers” have made off with trees in the dead of night and even used helicopters in their operations.
Early settlers discovered black walnuts growing in mixed forests from Canada to northern Florida and west to the Great Plains. They found that their rich-brown heartwood was exceptionally resistant to decay and used it for fence posts, poles, shingles, and sills.
When surrounded by other trees in the forest, black walnuts grow straight and tall with few, if any, lower branches.
When planted in the open, the tree will branch out closer to the ground, developing a spreading shape that makes it easier to harvest its sweet, round, 2- to 3-inch nuts.
Settlers snacked on the nutritious walnuts out of hand, added them to soups and stews, and ground them into a meal for baking; the hard shells provided a perfect package for storing the nuts over winter.
What Is Juglone?
Although the black walnut has many uses and benefits, the tree does come with a caveat: the black walnut’s roots, which may extend 50 feet or more from the trunk, exude a natural herbicide known as juglone. This substance is also found in the tree’s leaves and fruit husks.
Juglone does serve a purpose, though. It inhibits many plants’ growth under and around the tree, thereby limiting the tree’s competition and leaving more water and nutrients for itself.
Tomatoes, potatoes, apples, pears, berries, and some landscape plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, and lilacs may be killed or stunted if grown close to black walnut roots or within the tree’s drip line (i.e., under the tree’s canopy). Plan your landscaping accordingly!
Juglone Plant Susceptibility Chart
Highly Susceptible (Avoid Planting Near Black Walnut)
Tolerant (Safe to Plant Near Black Walnut)
Tomato
Corn
Potato
Beans
Eggplant
Carrots
Peppers
Beets
Apple Trees
Onions
Pear Trees
Cherry Trees (some varieties)
Blueberries
Black Raspberry
Rhododendrons
Pawpaw Tree
Azaleas
Red Maple
Lilacs
Hickory
Mountain Laurel
Oak (most species)
Hydrangea
Dogwood
A Great Shade Tree
Black walnuts make great shade trees for larger properties. They commonly grow to 50 feet or taller and about as wide, but specimens of more than 100 feet have been recorded.
Black walnut’s large, fernlike foliage provides light, airy shade for those grasses and ground covers unaffected by juglone. The leaves turn bright yellow in autumn, contrasting nicely with the tree’s rugged, dark bark.
Black walnuts require deep, fertile soil with a near-neutral or slightly acidic pH. They are pretty much disease-free and are threatened by a few pests.
How to Harvest Black Walnuts
Thud! Thud! Most walnut tree owners have a love/hate relationship because of the fruit the tree drops in late summer through October. The fruit is quite heavy, the size of a baseball, and lime green in color. It makes quite a mess and can be viewed as a nuisance.
Walnut tree owners will spend hours picking up the fruit in some years. If you don’t remove the nuts, you’ll trip over them in the dark for the rest of the year (while they rot and mold on your lawn). Hire the kid down the street to pick up those dropped walnuts (just be careful not to pay per nut—you’ll go broke)!
Photo Credit: John A. Anderson
If you’re willing to crack the outer shell, the “meat” inside is edible, as the squirrels will attest; squirrels have little problem chewing through the shells. (Note: Black walnuts are different from English walnuts, which are more commonly sold in stores and shown in the photo above.)
The sweet, earthy nutmeat inside is well worth the effort. Your grandparents may have harvested walnuts, which can be eaten raw or added to baking (cookies and bars). They can also be used as toppings on ice cream and cakes, enjoyed as a sweetened candy nut, or ground into a meal for a unique flour.
How to Harvest Black Walnuts
To harvest, collect the nuts as soon as possible to avoid mold and remove the husks immediately.
Wear gloves as the husks stain your hands (and anything they touch). If the nut is too hard, wait a few days, and it will brown and soften up.)
To remove the husk, you can step on them gently with an old pair of shoes. Hose down the nuts in a large bucket to remove any remaining husk.
Dry the walnuts for a couple of weeks on a screen, drying rack, or in a hanging mesh bag. You can store them unshelled for up to a year.
Crack the shell with a hammer to get to the nut meat. (Strike at a 90-degree angle to the seam until the nut cracks). Use pliers to easily clip away the shell to release the nutmeat.
Allow the freshly removed nutmeat to dry for a day before storing.
Do you have a black walnut tree? Please share your comments, questions, and advice!
George and Becky Lohmiller shared their gardening knowledge and enthusiasm with Almanac readers for more than 15 years, writing Farmer’s Calendar essays and gardening articles in previous editions of The Old Farmer’s Almanac.
We have 3 large black walnut trees. This is the first year that they are dropping the newly forming nuts in the spring. We are a little concerned as to why this is happening. Can you help?
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Tue, 06/16/2015 - 14:21
Hi, 3D: This could be from any number of things, including some sort of infestation. Another thing that happens is that unkind weather conditions interfere with spring pollination, so the weakened tree starts dropping nuts. About all you can do is observe carefully as time goes on and see if anything seems to be afflicting the tree. Otherwise, hopefully it should be stronger next year.
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<span>Helga Kimball</span>Fri, 04/24/2015 - 14:46
Two years ago I had an old black walnut cut down and the stump ground up. I now would like to plant veggies there. Do I need to remove all the chips or can I mix in soil and plant that area. The mound of chips has shrunk by 3/4 over the past 2 years. Is it still toxic?
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<span>Jay Warden</span>Mon, 04/13/2015 - 14:25
Hi,somewhere I read that you can use black walnut for fence posts. Questions: does the toxicity apply to fence posts and if you cut down the tree, how do you destroy the toxicity?
Thank you.
Jay
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<span>Ronald David </span>Mon, 03/09/2015 - 03:45
Nice blog!yes black walnut is beautiful and herbal medicine tree.Dried Walnut Hull or its extract helps in relieving asthma, cough, and chronic bronchitis. Regular consumption of this herbal extract offers excellent relief for people of age suffering from chronic respiratory diseases. In Asian countries the use of black walnut and its extract a popular home remedy for treating respiratory diseases. Check out the Benefits of Black Walnut here: buytincture which is best herbal store.
We just purchased some land that is covered in black walnut trees. We will be taking some down to plant grass and do landscaping. How long are the roots toxic after they ate cut down?
Thanks!
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Wed, 02/11/2015 - 15:44
Hi, Susan: The duration of the toxicity of juglone, the poisonous agent of black walnut trees, really depends in some part on the type, density, and drainage of the soil (although juglone is not very soluble). Still, it can last for 5 or 6 years or even longer -- and it can be much shorter, too. There are two things to do: (1) When you "stump" (pull up the stumps on) your land, try to get as much of the big roots as possible, even if it means a little more work. They have a massive root system, but every little bit that's not there helps. (2) Research online or at your library what plants are tolerant of juglone -- there are quite a few: Kentucky blue grass, for example. Good luck!
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<span>Corinna</span>Tue, 10/14/2014 - 09:01
I have a few acres of black walnut trees. Unfortunately they were planted about 10 feet apart so they have grown tall and thin. They are about 50 feet tall with trunk diameters of 6-12inches. I'd like to thin some areas in hopes that the trees will branch out and spread at the crown. Is it too late for them or will opening the area encourage them to branch out?
Thanks!
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Wed, 10/15/2014 - 10:08
Hi, Corinna: This is a good question, with answers so complicated that we dare not go there. Some of this depends on the purpose of the trees (harvest anything? shade? beauty?). In any event, walnut trees with this extremely tight spacing are best thinned when their diameters are 3 to 4 inches, not 6 and up. Your local climate and soil conditions might come into play, too, not to mention the extensive root systems. We recommend consulting with a professional arborist. Good luck!
Poison ivy vines are growing exclusively on all my walnut trees in the unkept, mature woods of the older home I just bought in northern MD. Wild grape, oak, and rosa flora vines are grwing on all the other trees but never on the walnuts. Why? I love and hate it. How agressive can I get with herbicides and not hurt the trees?
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