How to Kill Poison Ivy (And Keep It From Coming Back)

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Most gardeners have encountered poison ivy at some point, and it is not a fun experience.

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7 simple steps to get rid of poison ivy safely and for good.

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After plenty of painful run-ins, I finally cracked the code on killing poison ivy. I don’t love wiping out a native plant or going all heavy-handed, but this insidious, toxic vine spreads like wildfire, and it’s time to show it the door. Follow these seven easy steps to kick poison ivy to the curb—without trashing your lawn or other plants.

Poison ivy might be a native plant—but let’s be honest, it’s nobody’s favorite neighbor. Once it moves into your yard, it tends to settle in for the long haul, climbing trees, sprawling across fences, and popping up where you least expect it. It’s been a thorn in gardeners’ sides forever—rumor has it even Adam and Eve ran into it shortly after the Garden of Eden. Native American tribes called it “the plant that makes you hurt,” and Captain John Smith dubbed it “poysoned ivy” way back in 1624.

What Is Poison Ivy?

When a plant’s name starts with “toxic,” you know you’re in trouble. Called Toxicodendron, which means poisonous tree. All parts of this plant are toxic to humans except the nectar and pollen. Goats can eat it without ill effects, and bees can make a non-toxic honey from it. Dogs and cats are immune to the resin—urushiol—that causes the itch, but they can carry it on their fur to rugs, furniture, and us. Another relative of poison ivy, which also carries the urushiol, poison oak.

First things first: How to Identify Poison Ivy

Before you can tackle poison ivy, you need to know what you’re dealing with. This plant is a master of disguise—growing as a vine, shrub, or ground cover—but it always follows one rule: “Leaves of three, let it be.” Here’s what to look for:

  • Three leaflets per group, often shiny with a waxy coating.
  • Leaf edges can be smooth, jagged, or lobed.
  • Green in summer, turning bright red or orange in fall.
  • Hairy aerial rootlets on vines that cling to trees, fences, and walls.
  • Most often found along fence lines, woodland edges, and sunny yard spots.
Close-up of poison ivy leaves
Most gardeners have encountered poison ivy at some point, and it is not a fun experience!

Can You Kill Poison Ivy Without Herbicides? (Spoiler: It’s Tough)

When we first moved to our poison ivy-covered cottage in the woods, I tried all sorts of home remedies—boiling water, salt, even vinegar. It felt like I was trying to make poison ivy pickles! Unfortunately, none of these non-chemical methods had a lasting effect. Vinegar-based sprays can even harm other plants they touch. 

Some gardeners have controlled small patches by regularly mowing the area until the plants give up and die. Others try smothering vines with black plastic, but poison ivy often creeps around the edges, making this a slow and unreliable method. Vines climbing trees can be cut off at the base to kill the tops, but then you’ve got to pull the roots.

While pulling or digging up poison ivy can seem like a quick fix, it’s risky. The plant’s oils cause that nasty rash, and disturbed roots often lead to regrowth. If you do decide to remove plants mechanically, see the safety tips below.

What DOES Kill Poison Ivy?

Killing poison ivy can be tricky because you want to target the nasty vine without damaging your beautiful lawn or garden friends. The key is choosing the proper method and products.

  • Use Selective Herbicides

Selective herbicides target broadleaf weeds like poison ivy but leave grasses unharmed. Look for products with active ingredients such as:

HerbicideCommon UseSelective or Non-SelectiveBest Time to ApplyNotes
2,4-DBroadleaf weeds (incl poison ivy) in lawnsSelectiveSpring or early summerWon’t harm grasses; avoid use near vegetables and flowers
DicambaBroadleaf weeds (incl poison ivy, tough perennialsSelectiveSpring to early summerCan vaporize and drift—apply on calm days
TriclopyrWoody plants and vines (e.g., poison ivy, brambles)SelectiveLate spring through summerVery effective on poison ivy and woody invaders; safe for grasses
GlyphosateKills all green plants (weeds, grass, vines)Non-SelectiveWarm, dry days during active growthKills everything it touches—use carefully with targeted application

These are often found in combination in lawn weed killers labeled for broadleaf weed control.

  • Avoid Non-Selective Herbicides Near Desired Plants

Non-selective herbicides like glyphosate kill all green plants they touch, so only use them for poison ivy growing away from grass and garden plants. Be very cautious and avoid spraying on windy days.

  • Manual Removal Combined with Herbicide

If you want to minimize chemical use, try pulling up smaller poison ivy patches by the roots (wear protective gloves and clothing!). Follow up by applying a selective herbicide on any regrowth to keep it from coming back.

7 Steps to Kill Poison Ivy Forever

Timing and technique are everything when it comes to controlling poison ivy. Here’s a clear, proven game plan:

1. WHEN to kill poison ivy

In general, the best time to tackle poison ivy is in late spring to early summer—when the plant is growing strong and its leaves are fully out. That’s when the herbicide soaks in best and does its job down to the roots.

Try not to apply too early before the leaves come in, or too late once the plant starts shutting down for the season. And if your poison ivy is a stubborn little troublemaker, don’t hesitate to give it a second round about a month later. Persistence pays off!

Apply herbicide to poison ivy on a calm, dry day when there’s little to no wind—that way, you won’t accidentally drift herbicide onto your other plants. Avoid application if rain’s expected within the next 24 hours, so it has time to soak in and do its job. Early morning or late afternoon works best, when it’s not too hot or chilly.

2. WHERE are you killing poison ivy?

There are two easy options, based on where your poison ivy is growing:

  1. If poison ivy is popping up in your lawn and you want to zap it without harming your grass, go for a selective herbicide designed to target broadleaf weeds—including poison ivy. Selective means the active ingredient (like 2,4-D) will kill the unwanted plant without damaging your lawn. Non-selective herbicides, like glyphosate, kill anything green and growing.
  2. But if the ivy’s growing outside your lawn or garden—think along fences, in wooded spots, or brushy areas—reach for a herbicide that targets both broadleaf weeds and woody vines. In this case, the active ingredient (like triclopyr) is especially effective against older, well-established poison ivy.  

3. HOW to kill poison ivy (it’s the LEAVES!)

The key to controlling poison ivy is to apply it directly to the leaves, not the roots or the woody vines. The herbicide must travel from the leaves down into the roots to kill the whole plant. So, wet the leaves thoroughly—front and back. Avoid drift or contact with nearby desirable plants, flowers, or vegetables. 

Whenever possible, spot-treat poison ivy leaves rather than spraying large areas. On larger infestations, always follow the product’s label directions for coverage and timing. Follow label directions carefully—more is not better. Runoff could harm nearby plants or contaminate soil where you don’t want the herbicide.

4. Be Persistent

Poison ivy is a stubborn little devil and can bounce back from its roots, so don’t be surprised if you need to apply more than once. Older, established vines, especially, might take a few rounds of treatment spread out over weeks or even months before you see it gone for good.

5.  Wear Protection!

Always wear waterproof gloves, long sleeves, pants, closed shoes, and eye protection when dealing with poison ivy or using herbicides. Cover ALL skin. 

6. Watch for Regrowth

Even after successful treatments, keep an eye on your yard. Mow regularly and remove any new shoots before they spread.

7. Adapt as Needed

Due to climate change, poison ivy is growing larger and producing more potent oils, making early and thorough control more important than ever.

Safety First: Disposal Tips

Poison ivy may look innocent, but it packs a serious punch. Before tackling it, here’s how to protect yourself:

  • Bag it: Dispose of the debris carefully. Securely bag pulled vines—don’t compost them!
  • Never burn poison ivy plants or roots: The smoke can carry urushiol oil and harm your lungs. Important safety note:  Inhaling the smoke can cause severe lung and throat irritation.
  • Wash everything: Urushiol—the oil that causes the rash—can linger on clothes and tools for years, so wash everything separately and clean your gardening gear thoroughly.
  • Bonus tip: Keep your pets away from poison ivy patches. They won’t get the rash, but they can carry the oil on their fur—straight onto your lap.

Poison Ivy FAQs

Q: What kills poison ivy permanently?
A:  The most effective method for brush is an herbicide containing triclopyr; it is selective, meaning it targets poison ivy and oak but seldom harms grasses and ornamental plants.

Q: When is the best time to kill poison ivy?
A: Late spring to early summer—during the plant’s full-leaf growth stage—when it’s actively absorbing nutrients. This ensures the herbicide travels down to the roots.

Q: Will poison ivy come back after treatment?
A: Possibly. Monitor the area and re-treat any new shoots. Be patient—it can take a season or two.

Q: Can I compost pulled poison ivy?
A: No. Always bag and dispose of it. The toxic oil remains potent.

With patience, the right products, and these steps, you’ll be able to reclaim your yard and send poison ivy packing—once and for all!

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
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