Don’t throw out your garden debris or kitchen vegetable scraps! Turn them into rich, crumbly organic material to help plants thrive. We’ll show you how to compost at home using hot, cold, or worm composting methods, so you can choose the approach that works best for your space and how quickly you want finished compost.
What Is Compost?
Compost is a nutrient-rich, soil-like material made from decomposed organic matter—often fallen leaves, grass clippings, plant debris, vegetable scraps, and yard waste. Composting recycles materials you might otherwise throw away and turns them into a valuable soil amendment for your garden.
Compost also helps improve many soil problems. If the key to a successful garden is good soil (and it is), compost is one of a gardener’s best tools for building healthier soil.
In sandy soil, compost helps improve water-holding capacity. In heavy clay soil, it improves soil structure and creates better conditions for air, water, and roots. Even good loamy soil benefits from compost, which adds organic matter, supports soil life, and supplies nutrients as it continues to break down.
How to Choose a Compost Bin
In community gardens, you may see a series of bins filled with organic matter in different stages of decomposition, but don’t let a professional system like that intimidate you. You don’t need a large outdoor space to start composting. Depending on the method, you can compost in a backyard, on a patio or balcony, or even indoors with a worm bin.
At its most basic, an outdoor composting system can be a simple pile in a corner of the yard. If you want to make hot compost, a pile about 3 feet wide and 3 feet high or larger helps retain enough heat for active decomposition.
Many gardeners prefer a dedicated structure to keep the pile contained, such as a cube made from wood pallets, a purpose-built plastic bin, or a DIY compost bin. Fancy bins with multiple layers and sifters are convenient, but they aren’t necessary.
It’s also possible to compost directly in a garden bed, a method sometimes called in-situ composting.
Composting in a wooden pallet bin. Credit: Ben Kerckx
Composting Methods: Hot, Cold, and Worm Composting
1. Hot (or “Active”) Composting
Hot, or active, composting is the fastest way to turn garden and kitchen scraps into finished compost. A well-managed pile can heat to about 130° to 160°F (54° to 71°C) as microorganisms break down the materials.
Those higher temperatures can also help destroy many weed seeds and disease-causing organisms. The size of the pile, the balance of ingredients, moisture, and airflow all play a role in keeping the pile active.
Use the Right Balance of Browns and Greens
For a home compost pile, a useful rule of thumb is to mix roughly 2 to 3 parts carbon-rich brown materials with 1 part nitrogen-rich green materials by volume. This helps create an overall carbon-to-nitrogen balance close to what composting microorganisms need.
For many gardeners, the biggest challenge is collecting enough brown materials. Adding too many greens at once—especially fresh grass clippings—can create a wet, compacted pile that smells unpleasant.
Too many browns can slow decomposition, however. Instead of dumping a large quantity of fall leaves into the pile at once, mix them with fresh green materials as you build the pile. You can also compost leaves separately to make leaf mold.
How Big Should the Compost Pile Be?
A hot compost pile should be at least about 3 feet wide and 3 feet high. A somewhat larger pile—around 4 feet across—can retain heat well, but an oversized pile may be difficult to turn and aerate.
How to Make a Hot Compost Pile
Cutting or shredding materials into smaller pieces helps them break down faster by exposing more surface area to decomposing microorganisms.
Start with a layer of coarse brown material, such as small twigs, dry leaves, or shredded cardboard. Coarser materials at the bottom can help improve airflow.
Add a layer of nitrogen-rich green materials, such as vegetable scraps, fresh grass clippings, or garden trimmings.
Continue alternating browns and greens until the pile reaches at least about 3 feet high.
Moisten the materials as you build the pile. The finished mixture should feel about as damp as a wrung-out sponge—not dripping wet.
Keep air moving through the pile by turning or mixing it periodically. Good airflow supports the aerobic microorganisms responsible for fast, relatively odor-free decomposition.
Check the temperature of your hot composting pile with a thermometer. Credit: Alex_gor
A properly built hot compost pile may begin heating within a few days. Use a compost thermometer to check the center of the pile. Temperatures between about 110°F and 160°F (43°C to 71°C) indicate active decomposition, with the hottest temperatures generally occurring near the center.
As the center begins to cool, turn the pile so that materials from the outside move toward the middle. Frequent turning can speed decomposition, but exactly how long compost takes depends on the materials, temperature, moisture, airflow, and how often the pile is turned. Under good conditions, hot compost may be ready within several weeks to a few months.
See our video on making super-fast compost!
2. Cold (or “Passive”) Composting
Cold, or passive, composting requires less effort than hot composting. You simply build a pile of organic matter and allow it to decompose over time without carefully managing its temperature or turning it frequently.
Cold composting is easier to maintain, but decomposition takes substantially longer—often a year or more.
How to Make a Cold Compost Pile
Add brown and green materials as you accumulate them, aiming for a good mix rather than large amounts of any one ingredient. Bury fruit and vegetable scraps toward the center of the pile to help discourage insects and animal pests.
Note: Avoid adding weeds that have gone to seed or diseased plant material to a cold compost pile. Because the pile does not consistently reach high temperatures, weed seeds and some plant pathogens may survive.
3. Vermicomposting (Composting With Worms)
Vermicomposting. Credit: Lulub
Vermicomposting uses worms to break down food scraps and other organic materials. It is one of the most space-efficient composting methods and can be done in a relatively small container.
Getting started takes a little preparation because you need suitable bedding, the right type of worms, and a well-ventilated container. Once established, a worm bin is relatively easy to maintain by adding appropriate kitchen scraps regularly and keeping the bedding moist but not waterlogged.
If you have limited outdoor space and mainly want to compost fruit and vegetable scraps, vermicomposting may be a good fit. You can also explore Bokashi composting, another method suited to small spaces.
4 Essential Ingredients of a Healthy Compost Pile
Layers of a compost pile. Credit: Kaca Skokanova
A productive compost pile needs four things:
Brown matter (“browns”): Carbon-rich materials such as straw, wood chips, shredded non-glossy cardboard, and fallen leaves.
Green matter (“greens”): Nitrogen-rich materials such as fresh grass clippings, garden trimmings, and fruit and vegetable scraps. Aim for an overall carbon-to-nitrogen balance of about 30:1. For home composting, a practical rule is roughly 2 to 3 parts browns to 1 part greens by volume.
Water: Keep the pile consistently moist but not waterlogged. It should feel about as damp as a wrung-out sponge.
Air: Oxygen is necessary for the aerobic microorganisms that break down organic matter. Turning or mixing the pile periodically helps maintain airflow.
Keep in mind that color is not always a reliable indicator of whether a material is considered a green or a brown. Fresh grass clippings, for example, are still a nitrogen-rich “green” even after they dry and turn brown.
Straw, on the other hand, is considered a “brown” because it is relatively high in carbon.
Compost decomposes faster when materials are chopped or shredded into smaller pieces because more surface area is exposed to the microorganisms doing the work.
Avoid packing the pile down tightly. Air is essential to the composting process, and compacted materials are more likely to become wet, oxygen-starved, and smelly.
What Can Be Composted?
Many organic materials from the kitchen and garden can go into a backyard compost pile. A healthy mix includes both carbon-rich browns and nitrogen-rich greens.
Good materials for a backyard compost pile include:
Fruit and vegetable scraps
Coffee grounds and paper coffee filters
Loose tea leaves and fully compostable tea bags
Eggshells
Fresh grass clippings in moderate amounts
Garden trimmings
Fallen leaves
Straw
Small amounts of untreated wood chips or sawdust
Shredded non-glossy paper and newspaper
Shredded non-glossy cardboard
Nutshells
Hair
Seaweed that has been rinsed of excess salt
What Not to Put in a Backyard Compost Pile
Avoiding adding materials that create odors, attract pests, introduce pathogens, or fail to break down properly in a typical backyard compost pile.
Meat, fish, and bones
Dairy products
Fats, oils, and grease
Dog or cat waste and kitty litter
Diseased plants unless you are maintaining a properly managed hot compost pile
Weeds that have gone to seed, especially in a cold compost pile
Invasive weeds that may regrow from roots, rhizomes, or stems
Coal or charcoal ash
Glossy or heavily coated paper and cardboard
Plastic, glass, metal, rocks, and other inorganic materials
Be cautious with grass clippings or other plant material from lawns treated with herbicides. Follow the product label before composting treated material. Some persistent herbicides can remain active long enough to damage sensitive garden plants even after the material has been composted.
How Do You Know When Compost Is Ready?
Finished compost should be dark, crumbly, and earthy-smelling, with few recognizable pieces of the original ingredients remaining. The pile should also stop heating up after it is mixed or turned.
Once active decomposition has finished, allowing compost to cure for several weeks can help stabilize it before you add it to garden beds, containers, or planting holes.
If you can still identify a lot of the original leaves, stems, or food scraps, give the pile more time.
Composting Problems and Solutions
Composting doesn’t have to be messy, smelly, or complicated, but problems sometimes arise. Most can be fixed by adjusting the balance of browns and greens, moisture, or airflow.
What Should I Do If My Compost Is Too Wet?
A wet, slimy pile usually contains too much moisture, too many green materials, or not enough airflow. Mix in dry, carbon-rich materials such as dry leaves or shredded cardboard, then turn the pile to introduce more air. The mixture should feel damp but not soggy.
Why Does My Compost Smell Bad?
A healthy compost pile should smell earthy rather than rotten. A foul or sour odor usually means the pile is too wet, contains too many greens, or is not getting enough oxygen.
Turn the pile to introduce air and mix in dry brown materials such as leaves, straw, or shredded cardboard until the moisture and ingredient balance improves.
How Do I Keep Pests Away From My Compost Pile?
Avoid adding meat, dairy products, fats, and other foods that commonly attract rodents and other pests. Bury fruit and vegetable scraps in the center of the pile and cover fresh food scraps with a layer of brown material.
If animals continue to be a problem, use a compost bin with a secure lid and consider adding hardware cloth around openings or beneath the pile to limit access.
Can I Compost Weeds?
You can compost many weeds if they have not yet produced seeds. A properly managed hot compost pile can destroy many weed seeds, but a cold pile may not get hot enough.
Be especially cautious with invasive perennial weeds that can regrow from roots, rhizomes, or stems. Plants such as bindweed are often better disposed of rather than added to a backyard compost pile.
See our video on how to fix composting problems:
Take the plunge and get composting! Once you get the balance of browns, greens, moisture, and air right, nature does most of the work.
Catherine Boeckmann is the Executive Digital Editor of Almanac.com, the digital home of The Old Farmer’s Almanac. She leads digital editorial strategy and publishing across a wide range of Almanac sub...
I am thinking about using metal barrels (55 gallon drums) for composting in containers (I'm scared of attracting rats). Has anyone had any experience with this? They are black and have lids so I think they will get hot enough. What I am not sure about are: do I have to turn it? and do I still need to layer brown and green materials?
Also, anyone mix food/foliage compost with chicken manure?
Thanks!
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Tue, 05/19/2015 - 11:40
Hi, Shontael: 55-gallon drums are usable, but this is a lot more complicated than it may appear. You would need to be absolutely sure that they were decontaminated. Usually they are used on their sides and rotated to turn. They also need at least a little ventilation. Just throwing compostable material into a vertical drum and then sealing is usually not done for a number of reasons, not least of which is that it is a lot more difficult to turn than you might imagine. Do some research to ensure a successful project. And while you can certainly use chicken manure (or a diluted solution of aged chicken manure) in conjunction with compost in the garden, you would not want to add it directly to your compost bin. Thanks for asking!
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<span>Alan G</span>Fri, 05/11/2018 - 12:39
I use to have 6 old plastic garbage cans with holes in the bottom from dragging them to the curb for my mulch bins. The hole(s) must be in contact with the dirt, that's how the worms come in. They were lined up at the side and back of my garage. The garage had a hip roof. I made plywood covers with holes in them to allow water to come in and keep down the evaporation with the ones in the sun. Grass was cut by the gardener and he was instructed to leave the pile on the ground near the beds. Green grass was spread over the bed and by the following week was brown. Covered that with some fresh clippings and tilled that into the beds. Greens and browns. Left over clippings went into each can just as a light top cover. Too much and the grass will sour and smell like there is no tomorrow. When the cans started to diminish in size I combined them. By late fall I ran the compost through a wire diamond mesh lath in a 2x4 frame over a wheel barrow. Left over material when back into the pails. Worms galore and I wound up with about 5 - 5 gallon pails of incredible mulch. On the lawn around the trees and dug the rest into the garden beds. The top soil went from 4" thick to 12" over 20 years. Loved ever minute of it. And the produce was top notch. All organic. The worms were a plus for fishing. Always left some behind.
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<span>Jonal</span>Mon, 04/13/2015 - 05:46
Tea bags should NOT be added directly to a compost heap. Open them and empty the contents into the compost. The 'bag' is made from plastic net impregnated with paper. The paper rots, but the plastic does not. I stopped using the bags over 5 years ago but am still digging them up each year when turning over the soil, still with their contents trapped inside.
Egg shells should be dried, then ground as fine as possible before adding.
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Wed, 04/15/2015 - 15:31
Thank you for this. We've updated the article to add this point about composting tea bags.
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<span>Michael T Edwards</span>Tue, 11/04/2014 - 01:53
Composting can be done in many ways, I use a hot method but my pile is quit large so I take a piece of black PVC six feet tall then I drill 3/4'' holes on opposite sides 6" from the bottom then again 1" above that but on opposite sides. Do this pattern every 6" up the pipe to the top, then I take the pole and put it in the center of the compost pile vertically with a cap loosely on top to regulate the heat. I then layer my pile around it, mine is about 7' wide by 6' or more high. I then get the pile moist but not wet & I turn the pile about every five days. Once the heap is hot I will remove the cap to airate it. This works well for me, my garden is approximately 50x50 this gives me all I need. I hope this is helpful -MTE
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<span>Pvonwist</span>Sun, 07/13/2014 - 11:21
I am new to this as well, so a few questions about hot composting?
Once I have built up my 3 foot compost lasagna can I keep adding to it or other than turning it, do I just leave it alone?
Just wondering how to hot compost during the winter. Can I build my 3 foot compost lasagna and just continually add to it over the winter and keep turning it?
I am assuming a couple 4x4x4 boxes are necessary and rotated through over the growing season?
Lastly, would it be advisable to have a plexiglass/glass/plastic lid over top of the compost bin to help cook the compost over the winter?
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Wed, 07/16/2014 - 16:43
Hi there -- Here are some answers to your questions. Starting with the last question:
A cover will certainly help keep the soil slightly warmer, which is beneficial when you come to plant into it in spring, and will stop it from getting too wet, but you may need to check it occasionally and water it if it’s very dry.
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Wed, 07/16/2014 - 16:41
Boxes aren’t essential for lasagna gardening or for composting; it depends on how tidy you want your garden to look! Bins for composting (the larger, the better) can help the compost to heat up better than an open pile, and are less of a draw for rodents. If creating a lasagne bed inside a raised bed, plant into it just as you would into the open ground -- you will probably need to add some finished compost or good soil for plants to get started though.
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Wed, 07/16/2014 - 16:40
During the winter composting slows down dramatically -- depending on your climate there may be no noticeable changes in your compost over the winter. Turning it will introduce air into it and cool it further.
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