How to Identify and Control Anthracnose
Will pruning affected trees and destroying the leaves be enough to prevent recurrence? I may missing it, but I don't see any information about how to prevent recurrence in trees? Lots of info on plants, but I don't anything preventative for large trees.
Does additional anthracnose treatments needed every year to large maple trees to prevent initial infection during the first year.
Removing infected leaves can help to stop its spread, but anthracnose can overwinter in twigs or other parts of the tree, so it’s unlikely that you would be able to get rid of it completely. Generally, anthracnose isn’t as big of an issue in trees as it is in smaller plants, so it’s often something that is just tolerated. However, if the tree seems to weaken and have a lot of leaf loss, fungicides can be used. Read more about that here: Anthracnose
I work at TESYD Farms as T.O. and I have noticed that most of the young seedlings have their leaves with many dark spot looking like it has been sprayed with weedicide. Can that be anthracnose?.
I have recently bought a mango tree and it has black regions on my branches.It doesn't seem to be effecting the leaves much yet . I'm not sure if its Anthracnose any help would do. I've also noticed broken leaves I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it.
I once had healthy guava fruits, but the tree is now producing guava fruits which browns very quickly
what has gone wrong
Can you help with an explanation and treatement
What does the damage look like on the fruit of Peach trees and how does one control it? When to spray to keep if from happening? I'm not sure that is what I have on the fruit of my peach trees but from your article it sounds like it is.
Anthracnose can be a problem in semi-arid climates (and probably arid ones), too. It mostly seems to be a foliar issue (and a fruit storage problem, too), however. The foliage problem seems kind of mysterious due to the dry air until you realize that anthracnose appears to be what often causes fallen apples to rot after they get too old to eat (apples fall a lot when it's dry), and spider mites (which love dry areas), love infesting apple trees. They are probably all over the rotting apples on the ground, too. I hypothesize that they afterward go on to other things like watermelon to spread anthracnose to at least the foliage of the watermelon. I've found that showering the watermelon plants and such tends to keep the spider mites (and foliar anthracnose) at bay the first half of the season or so (and the showering helps the plants grow faster). So, yeah, pick up your apples that fall (don't let them rot).
The combination of spider mites an anthracnose in my semi-arid area seems to tend to cause speckling of the leaves at first (they look stonewashed); you don't see large or dark cirlces, usually. It can cause the same thing on watermelon rinds, too, without rotting the fruits (the stonewashed look). Anthracnose-resistant watermelons still get the foliar anthracnose just as bad as regular watermelons in my experience (but the fruits don't seem to get the stonewashed look). For breeding foliar resistance, I recommend saving your seeds from exposed plants every year to help acclimatize them to the pests/diseases (if they occur every year). However, I zap my seeds with three frequencies of a Z4EX to hopefully remove any anthracnose pathogens (because if the infection is still there at germination time, you might not see a benefit to saving seeds, and it may spread the disease to other plants). The results of my saving and zapping seeds seem to be positive, so far (especially with my Ledmon watermelons), but more years of doing this are needed.
It should be noted that the combination of foliar anthracnose and spider mites can stunt and/or kill plants. Watermelons that get the problem usually die after a while (Red-seeded Citron is probably the most resistant variety I've grown). Muskmelons seem more resistant than watermelons (on a foliar level).