I believe you meant " try growing a squash that’s *more* resistant such as Cucuzzi" (not less) :)
Thanks for this article! Very helpful!

I have looked over many sites dealing with Controls for squash Vine borer. With a heavy infestation of these moths I have fought to protect squash using nearly all the suggested methods. Some work(complete netting of the plants) but are very labor intensive. Finally I watched the moths in the garden for many hours (letting them do their nasty work without disturbing them) and realized that they are extremely sensitive and careful when laying (THIS IS THE KEY TO CONTROL!!!!!). I then developed a much Less labor intensive method that seems to work Exceptionally well. Chopping hay in 2 to 4 inch lengths I let the hay lightly fall over the stalks, particularly the base, and even onto fruit to form a very open matrix. The moths will not land and lay, it appears to prevent landing of the moths. It's possible to walk through the garden and drop fluffy handfuls of chopped hay over any exposed vines every few days quickly and efficiently, apparently completely discouraging the egg laying. This is an organic method(Obviously) and takes relatively little time in a small home garden. If this approach is used Diligently it is nearly 100% effective. Anyone using the technique needs to make just a matrix of hay, Very open and loose, LIGHTLY ALLOWED TO DROP OPENLY, A HAND FULL AT A TIME (no need to put a lot) but with small enough gaps so that the moth is discouraged. The moths DO NOT LIKE CLOSED AREAS, THEY WANT OPEN ACCESS TO STALKS AND FRUIT - AGAIN, THIS ISTHE KEY). You don't have to pack in the chopped straw, just scatter it with most pieces looking like open "pick up sticks", that seems to be all that's needed. If you experiment with this method you will find it EXTREMELY effective and efficient. I've tried to spread the word on many garden sites but have not been successful, please share the idea. Call it the Mayo technique!

Squash Vine Borer, the Garden Pest from Hell
The Squash vine borer is the hardest pest to control in my garden. Excuse my seeming cynicism in these comments, because I am a little, No, a lot frustrated with failure year after year and the lack of effective methods and frankly some silly advice in much of the literature. These little worms have got our number. We can go to the Moon, and that was 45 years ago, and cure many cancers now but we cannot solve the borer problem. I have no agenda against the writer(s) of this article and sincerely hope whoever it is will not take my views personal. I am sure they are professional writer(s) and above any pettiness that might come from a disrespect of my views. The contents here include most all the common points found in the literature universe I am aware of. If the writer(s) do take issue you may never see this article or they might retaliate by correcting my spelling or grammar. If so, I have had it. They can only give you the material available. The best advice any have given up to now on this subject is of limited value if not total crap. If not clear by now, I have attempted to inject a little humor in what I say. If that is not obvious then I suck at something besides fighting vine borers.
This article is somewhat helpful but all stuff I have heard before. Reading this article, I noticed there are no photos of the eggs and little information on how to read the signs of their presence before the eggs get laid? Timing is going to vary by your climate and latitude. Being able to act early and knowing what to do is critical. This article could not be more correct on that point. They are spot on. So what er ya gonna do? Sounds like you best be doing the whole list, all the way up to everything short of making a moth voodoo doll. Will you have time to run the rest of your garden? Will you engage in an focused and intense battle with the borers only notice later it has been two weeks and everything else died form neglect.
No photo of the moth here either. I thought moths were those butterfly looking things that fly around the porch light in the summer. These things look more like a wasp. I have seen them before and I found it a moment of helpless feelings that either he/she or one of its nearby cousins has a plan to cause loss of my squash and anything else they might fancy. Trying to catch or trap the moth? Good luck with that one. I am sure you will get one here or there with the right trap. Stand around the plants at dusk and dawn and catch them lighting on the plants and kill them. How? A fly swatter or dish towel pop? Does LOL fit here? All it takes it one moth to lay eggs on every plant you have, unless you have a commercial crop then it might take two or three. Photos? I really think they would be helpful so you know what to look for so you know they are here/there…you know? You still might fail to stop them but you are not blindsided. Plant two crops, one early and another later, which is intended to be one for the worms and one for you? Ridiculous! Don't plant where the moth eggs might be in the ground. Hmm? The moth can fly, so zipping over to another spot in the garden a few feet away is not going to trouble him. Netting? Will work for the birds maybe. For the Moths? That is sort of goofy. It might serve to keep the worm in. These moths are tiny and can easily get around if not through netting. Netting with holes that small might impact vital sunlight the plant requires. Just one moth finding its way past the netting and oh well, you are in for it again. So, more than likely, netting is not a very effective method to stop them. My frustration, and I expect yours as well, is that all you get are these measures to take; that in aggregate, do not stop the problem. No pun intended but there are holes in about everything suggested. Maybe it slows them down a bit but what do you profit by taking all the measures when one moth in one day can lay enough eggs to destroy your crop. Even you mange to take out the locals there is a chance an outside hit-moth from the next door garden with show up. And, you if don't see the eggs in time, inside two weeks they have moved in and started on the buffet. Even if you see the eggs before they hatch, how do you get them off other than cut a hunk out of the stalk? What happens if you drop a few in the process? I wonder.
Once you see the hole and the frass/droppings they are in the stalk and the only hope you have is injecting Dipel BT liquid inside the stalk but it is hard to tell where to inject with your syringe. Plus it is hard to get to the base without breaking the plant. Unless careful, you will do more damage than the worms. slit the stalk, remove the worm and cover the cut with soil. Good for the one worm. What about the rest of the family further up? What about the idea of sticking a wire in the holes to attempt to skewer them? Samurai Gardner, Hieah! Well that might work sometimes. Often there are three and four of the worms in one plant and they are constantly moving. So bag one and the others to still get the job done. Once inside the stalk they will flatten the plant in a matter of days. Last year I started slitting one plant and by the time I finished the plant was shredded with cuts because you have to start at the hole and keep cutting until you find the little jerk. I would say giving one of these worms one day on your plant is enough to wilt it severely. There is really no one single best solution and I find that discouraging. The only absolute way to stop them is to not plant squash.
This year I have planted squash and again, I will do battle with these ugly little slim bags for the freedom to have squash on the table. Sadistic really but I want squash. I refuse to let a worm dictate my dietary choices. My plan, while not perfect, is to spray, spray, spray. I plan to mix liquid seven and Malathion a little stronger than recommended and spray the stalks from the ground up to as much as a foot and the ground around it 6-8 inches. Do not spray blooms is good advice offer in this article. Why spray the ground? I don't know. It makes me feel better. If the worm gets a taste of the poison and makes a run for it maybe he won't get far. I will spray once a week. More if it rains. I may try wrapping the stalk with foil but suspect that it will be hard to apply enough to cover everywhere they might lay eggs. Plus the moth could get behind foil enough to give the eggs a barrier from the poison. I may try foil anyway because it is reasonable prevention. I will watch for the holes in the stalk and inject BT into infested plants. I fully expect I will have some get in but hope I can have them check out early. I will inject high and plentiful until I see it running out of the entry hole.
After all of that is done, or maybe better if before, pray the poison spray works.
Billy Knight
05/17/2016

My pumpkin leaves began wilting and fruit stopped growing. I saw the orange stuff coming out at the base of the stems, by the roots and saw holes so I figured bores. I took a blade to them this morning and cut out long, vertical sections out and found bores in every vine. All but one looks like it has been infected. I covered them with soil and watered heavily. We'll see what happens. I figured I either saved the plants or more likely killed them faster than they were already dying.

this year I decided to try giant pumpkins again, not for competition just local fun. but when I was looking for something to spray or drench the pumpkins, they miss informed me about their product killing vine borers. wiped out one plant, finally tried some Malathion 57%. it actually says it kills vine borer. I had some success with injecting the spray with cattle syringe and large needles, it does kill the worm fore sure, but no way on knowing how many I missed. I will try the nematodes next spring. I use to use this professional spray called WARRIOR T OR Z, but unless u know a commercial friend sprayer its almost impossible to buy. its deadly and all the giant pumpkin growers use this. very pricy, but hey it works. just have to be carefull when u spray. in my area , we've had no bees for a few years because of aerial crop sprayers, this is the first year I've seen some in my patch. after my pumpkins are set that I want to keep, I cut off all the flowers to help keep the bees away.

I have not had any problems with squash vine borers since I started using beneficial nematodes in the spring. Garden's Alive is the source I've used. They are called 'Grub Away Nematodes' - they are pricey but they work & should control the cornworms too. Unfortunately they do nothing for cucumber beetles!

The article is inaccurate. The eggs are laid on the OUTSIDE of the stem, singly, by the adult moth. They then hatch and burrow into the stem, where the larva grows. There are no egg masses in the stem, as larvae don't lay eggs. The larva later crawls out of the plant and into the ground where it builds a cocoon and emerges the following year as an adult moth.