Growing Pumpkins

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Pumpkins

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Whether you use them for carving or cooking, pumpkins do not disappoint. Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest pumpkins!

Did you know pumpkins have been grown in North America for almost 5,000 years. It’s a lot of fun to grow this American native. However, note that pumpkins do require a long growing season (generally from 75 to 100 frost-free days) so you need to plant them by late May in northern locations to early July in extremely southern states.

Wait until ALL danger of frost has passed and the soil is warmed, as the seedlings of this tender crop will be injured or rot. Find your local frost dates here.

That said, pumpkins are easy to maintain if you have the space.

Of autumn’s wine, now drink your fill;

The frost’s on the pumpkin, and snow’s on the hill.

–The Old Farmer’s Almanac, 1993

Planting

Selecting a Site

Pick a site with full sun (to light shade) and lots of space for sprawling vines. Vine varieties need 50 to 100 square feet per hill.
However, if your garden space is limited, no worries! Plant pumpkins at the edge of the garden and direct vine growth across the lawn or sidewalk. The vines will only be bothersome for a few weeks. You can also grow pumpkins in big 5 to 10 gallon buckets! Or, try miniature varieties.
Pumpkins are big, greedy feeders. They prefer very rich soil that is well-drained and not too soggy. Mix lots of compost and aged mature into the planting site before you sow seeds or transplant. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.

Planting by Seed

Pumpkins do best when the seeds are planted directly in the ground.
If your growing season is very short, seed indoors in peat pots about 2 to 4 weeks before last spring frost. Be sure to harden off before transplanting.
Wait until the plant soil is 70ºF or more before sowing seeds. Optimum soil temperature is 95ºF. Pumpkins are very sensitive to the cold.
Plant seeds in rows or “pumpkin hills,” which are the size of small pitcher mounds. With hills, the soil will warm more quickly and the seeds will germinate faster. This also helps with drainage and pest control.
Prepare the hills in advance with an abundance of old manure dug deep into the ground (12 to 15 inches). If you don’t have manure, loosen the soil and mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost
Plant the seeds 1 inch deep into the hills (4 to 5 seeds per hill). Space hills 4 to 8 feet apart.
Your plants should germinate in less than a week with the right soil temperature (70 degrees F) and emerge in 5 to 10 days.
When the plants are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin to 2 to 3 plants per hill by snipping off unwanted plants without disturbing the roots of the remaining ones.
In rows, sow seeds 6 to 12 inches apart in rows 6 to 10 feet apart. Snip off plants to thin to one plant every 18 to 36 inches.

Care

Use row covers to protect plants early in the season and to prevent insect problems. However, remember to remove covers before flowering to allow pollination by insects!
Pumpkins are very thirsty plants and need lots of water. Water one inch per week. Water deeply, especially during fruit set.
When watering: Try to keep foliage and fruit dry unless it’s a sunny day. Dampness will make rot and other diseases more likely.
Add mulch around your pumpkins to keep in moisture, suppress weeks, and discourage pests.
Remember that pumpkins are tender from planting to harvest. Control weeds with mulch. Do not overcultivate, or their very shallow roots may be damaged.
Most small vine varieties can be trained up a trellis.
Larger varieties can be trained upward on a trellis, too—though it is an engineering challenge to support the fruit—usually with netting or old stockings.
If your first flowers aren’t forming fruits, that’s normal. Both male and female blossoms need to open. Be patient.
Bees are essential for pollination, so be mindful when using insecticides to kill pests. If you must use, apply only in the late afternoon or early evening, when blossoms are closed for the day. To attract more bees, try placing a bee house in your garden.
Pumpkin vines, though obstinate, are very delicate. Take care not to damage vines, which reduces the quality of fruit.

Pump Up Your Pumpkins!

Pumpkins are HEAVY feeders. Regular treatments of manure or compost mixed with water will sustain good growth.
Fertilize on a regular basis. Use a high nitrogen formula in early plant growth. Fertilize when plants are about one foot tall, just before vines begin to run. Switch over to a fertilizer high in phosphorous just before the blooming period.
Pinch off the fuzzy ends of each vine after a few pumpkins have formed. This will stop vine growth so that the plant’s energies are focused on the fruit.
Pruning the vines may help with space, as well as allow the plant’s energy to be concentrated on the remaining vines and fruit.
Gardeners who are looking for a “prize for size” pumpkin might select the two or three prime candidates and remove all other fruit and vines.
As the fruit develops, they should be turned (with great care not to hurt the vine or stem) to encourage an even shape.
Place a thin board or heavy cardboard under ripening melons and pumpkins to avoid decay and insect damage.

Pests/Diseases

Squash bugs and cucumber beetles are common, especially later in summer. Contact your local Cooperative Extension for potential controls.
Aphids
Squash Vine Borer
Powdery Mildew
Anthracnose
Poor light, too much fertilizer, poor weather at bloom time, and reduced pollinating insect activity can negatively impact fruit set.

Harvest/Storage

Your best bet is to harvest pumpkins when they are mature. They will keep best this way. Do not pick pumpkins off the vine because they have reached your desired size. If you want small pumpkins, buy a small variety.
A pumpkin is ripening when its skin turns a deep, solid color (orange for most varieties).
When you thumb the pumpkin, the rind will feel hard and it will sound hollow. Press your nail into the pumpkin’s skin; if it resists puncture, it is ripe.
Harvest pumpkins and winter squashes on a dry day after the plants have died back and the skins are hard.
To slow decay, leave an inch or two of stem on pumpkins and winter squash when harvesting them.
To harvest the pumpkin, cut the fruit off the vine carefully with a sharp knife or pruners; do not tear. Be sure not to cut too close to the pumpkin; a liberal amount of stem (3 to 4 inches) will increase the pumpkin’s keeping time.
Handle pumpkins very gently or they may bruise.
Pumpkins should be cured in the sun for about a week to toughen the skin and then stored in a cool, dry bedroom, cellar, or root cellar—anywhere around 55ºF.
If you get a lot of vines and flowers, but no pumpkins, you need more bees in your garden to pollinate the flowers. Grow some colorful flowers next to your pumpkin patch this year and you may get more bees and butterflies!
The yellowish pumpkins will soon come handy to give the cows. They help out the fall feed, and if there is anything better for cows in milk we should like to know it.
If you’re saving seeds, they should last for 6 years.
Check out this video for tips on curing and storing pumpkins.

Recommended Varieties

Miniature pumpkins: ‘Jack Be Little’ miniature pumpkin variety, perfect for a holiday table. Vine variety. Days to maturity: 90 to 100 days. ‘We-B-Little’ is an All-America Selection winner, and ‘Munchkin’ is another great miniature pumpkin. Miniature pumpkins are very productive and easy to grow, sometimes producing up to a dozen fruits per plant.

Photo Credits: National Garden Bureau. On the left, ‘Munchkin’ miniature pumpkins. On the right, ‘Wee-B-Little’ miniature pumpkins.

Pumpkins for carving: ‘Autumn Gold’ great for carving, decorating. All-America Selection winner. Vine variety. Excellent for Jack-o-Lanterns. Days to maturity are generally 100 to 120 days.
Giant pumpkins: ‘Dill’s Atlantic Giant’ jumbo variety can grow to 200 pounds. Great for those who want to grow a giant pumpkin. Vine will spread to 25 feet, so space is a must. Days to maturity are 130 to 160 days, so plant early! Thin to the best one or two plants. Feed heavily but keep cultivation shallow. Remove first 2 or 3 female flowers after the plants start to bloom so that the plants grow larger with more leaf surface before setting fruit. Allow a single fruit to develop and pick off all female flowers that develop after this fruit has set on the plant. Take care that the vine doesn’t root down near the joints to avoid breakage.
Perfect pumpkins for pies: ‘Sugar Treat’ semi-bush hybrid. Ideal for cooking and baking. Days to maturity are generally 100 to 120 days. ‘Hijinks’ and ‘Baby Bear’ are both All-America Selection winners and have sweet flesh for pumpkin pie. ‘Cinderella’s Carriage’ is also perfect for pies or soups. ‘Peanut Pumpkin’ also produces very sweet flesh and can be great in pumpkin pie or pumpkin puree.

Photo Credits: National Garden Bureau. On the left, ‘Cinderella’s Carriage’ pumpkins. On the right, ‘Peanut Pumpkin’.

Colorful pumpkins: ‘Jarrahdale’ has blue-green skin and makes for great decorations. ‘Pepitas Pumpkin’ is orange and green, and ‘Super Moon’ is a large white pumpkin.

Photo Credits: National Garden Bureau. On the left, a ‘Jarrahdale’ pumpkin. On the right, a ‘Pepitas Pumpkin’.

Wit & Wisdom

Pumpkin Trivia

Pumpkins were once thought to cure snakebites.
A slice of pumpkin pie before bedtime may help you to sleep.
Pumpkins have been grown in North America for almost 5,000 years.
Pumpkins are a nutritional powerhouse! Learn more about winter squash’s health benefits!
Cucubits, such as pumpkins, are subject to an ongoing myth—that planting different family members or varieties will result in strange fruit. Actually, it is the seeds resulting from cross-pollination that are corrupted, so this is a factor only if you are planning to save seeds for next year’s planting.

Carving Pumpkins

Pumpkins have become a traditional Halloween decoration and treat in the United States.
Inscribe messages on growing pumpkins with a large nail. The letters will scar over while the pumpkins grow and will still be visible at harvesttime.
See 5 tips for picking the perfect pumpkin for carving!
Learn about the history of carving pumpkins.

Recipes

Cooking Notes

See how to clean a pumpkin for cooking.
Don’t forget about the seeds! Roast them with salt or cinnamon for a tasty treat.

Reader Comments

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no pumpkins

We planted our seeds in Mid June on small mounds with 4 - 5 seeds per mound. We started seeing growth in just a week or so. The first week of July we had several days of triple digit heat but did not seem to effect vine growth. We did water at least 1 in ea week. Thru the next few weeks the vines grew and some flowers appeared. The flowers never turned into pumpkins but the vines continued to grow. Any ideas why we didn't get any pumpkins?

Green Pumpkins

I have harvested my pumpkins both orange and green. I have read that if the green ones are kept in a warm, dry, sunny area, they will turn green. How long does it take for them to turn green?

Green Pumpkins

On my previous question, I meant to say, how long will it take the green pumpkins to turn "orange"?

Immature Pumpkins

The length of time it takes for off-the-vine green pumpkins to turn orange will vary, but it’s generally recommended to keep them in a space that’s 80–85°F and has at least 80% humidity for approximately 10 days. This will provide immature pumpkins with the ideal environment for maturing and turning orange! Note that green pumpkins that have already been harvested may not ever get quite as orange as a pumpkin left to mature on the vine, but they should still be orange enough for Halloween!

Squash Bugs

Help ... I've lost at least 4 hills of pumpkins, all of my zucchini, and two of my 3 acorn squash plants ... and found bugs on my tomato plants. Sprayed with Seven last Sunday ... I am two late?

crop troubles

We’re so sorry that you have lost so much of your crops! Problems in the garden can be caused by insects, animals, disease, weather (too much/too little rain or too hot/cold), cultural conditions (such as soil pH), etc. If you are sure that the problems are caused by insects, spraying Sevin, a broad-spectrum insecticide, may help your tomatoes or other plants, depending on what the insects are that are attacking them (for example, Sevin is not labeled to control whiteflies), and how much damage has already been caused. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions, which will tell you about application timing, what insects it will control, and safety precautions, including how long you need to wait until it is safe to harvest (for tomatoes and squash, it is at least 3 days; for kidney beans and similar, it’s 21 days). For information about tomato pests, you might visit: https://www.almanac.com/plant/tomatoes. This video also covers several common pests, diseases, and cultural problems of tomatoes: https://www.almanac.com/video/troubleshooting-tomato-problems. Squash and zucchini information can be found here: https://www.almanac.com/plant/squash-and-zucchini. Also, here is a video on aphid control https://www.almanac.com/video/aphids-pest-control-tips-how-protect-your-plants Hope this helps!

Garden Box Pumpkins

This year is our first time trying to grow pumpkins. We have great foliage and lots of blossoms but still waiting on our first sign of fruit. Is it necessary to thin the foliage if they are on a garden Box?

Growing pumpkins

First year growing pumpkins. Lots of blooms on healthy vines but no pumpkins yet. Planted last week of June.

Pumpkin patxh

Hey guys! I have asked a question on here before but this year I’m doing my first little pumpkin patch and so far it’s doing really well, except some of my pumpkins have died and there are white spots on the leaves and some of the leaves have turned yellow...I’ve heard to get rid of the spots to spray milk and water on the leaves? Just wondering if that will help? Any thoughts on what I should do? Thanks!!

Leaves with white spots

You might have mildew -- if so, a teaspoon of baking soda dissolved in a quart of water and sprayed on liberally works for me. YOu can also look for other mildew cures.

what can you use to kill weeds in pumpkin patch

Looking for something that we can spray or sprinkle to kill weeds in the pumpkin patch that won't kill or discolor the pumpkins. We live in MN.

Removing weeds

Use a hoe. It's organic. Any weedkiller might also harm insects like spiders or even hedgehogs, which are your friends.

kill weeds in pumpkin patch

I was just going to suggest using your hands to remove the weeds. 100% organic.

Accidental pumpkin patch

The people who lived in my apartment before me left a rotting pumpkin in the bushes, and lucky for me, it seems to be growing into a very healthy plant now! Due to the fact that I didn't realize what it is until tonight, I haven't done anything to help it grow or keep it healthy. But I've already got two little pumpkins growing out of it. What should I do NOW? Clearly I don't have the upper hand in preparing the plant, but now that I know what it is, I'm determined to get a few pumpkins from it.

Rotting pumpkin

The trouble is, you don't know what type you've got, and it might be a hybrid because it's possibly one type fertilised by another type that created the seeds that are growing. Fun, random luck, but if you want to take it seriously, grow a type you've researched. I recommend spaghetti squash to amuse kids, or uchiki kuri for a sweet-potato like taste.

Pumpkin patch

I have a 10 by 10 pumpkin patch, and all of my plants are doing well. Many already have vines and blooms. The patch is now very full, should I worry about thinning and which ones do I choose to keep? This is my first pumpkin patch, any advice would be helpful!!! Thanks!

pumpkin thinning

There are main vines (coming from the base/center of the plant), secondary vines which come off of the main ones, and tertiary vines that grow off of the secondaries. All of these may have flowers. Once fruit has started to develop on the vines, some gardeners like to prune the main and secondary vines to 10 to 15 feet (burying the cut tips in soil). Then they remove the tertiary vines completely. Others go a step further and trim the main and secondaries so that each only has 2 to 3 pumpkins developing on them (keeping several feet of vine/leaves past the last fruit). Hope this helps!

Pumpkin

I have several plants my granddaughters planted and they are blooming, the problem is the blooms are falling off and its like someone is cutting them off so no pumpkin on the stem. Anyone know what is causing this? Have lost about 10 so far like this.

pumpkin flowers dropping off

There are several reasons why pumpkin flowers may drop. If you sure that it isn’t a pest, then check to see if these flowers are male. The male flowers appear earlier (a few weeks) than the female ones, and can drop after a while. Unlike the male flowers, the female flowers have a little bulge at the base, which will turn into the pumpkin once pollinated. If these are not pollinated, the female flowers will drop. Also, in high heat (in the 90s or above), or during drought or other stress, the plant may drop its flowers. Be sure that the plant is getting enough water (but is not waterlogged), and check the soil nutrients and pH. If you are experiencing a heat wave, you might shade the plant during peak temperatures. New flowers should form once temperatures or other conditions become better. Male flowers should also keep forming when female flowers start to appear. If you suspect a pollination issue, you might dry dusting pollen from a male flower onto a female flower by hand–heat can affect pollination as well, but this can at least increase the chance for fruit development.

Keeping insects off of your plants.

Sprinkle salt and black pepper on plants to keep off insects.I use this method on my tomatoes and pumpkins It works for me .

Kenneth,

Kenneth,
Do you just take a salt and pepper shaker to do this? Or do I need to mix them? Currently dealing with bugs on my tomatoes... I think they are little black flies?

leaves wilting during heat of the day

Is it normal for the leaves on a pumpkin vine to wilt during very hot days? Is there anything that can be done about it? I've watered and watered but they burn and curl after a while. I've even tried shading them.

Hopefully you’ve already

Hopefully you’ve already discovered the reason for your pumpkin issues but have you check for the Squash Vine Borer? It is my arch enemy every year. If the vine borer has gotten to it, that could be causing your wilting problems during the day. Unfortunately if you haven’t already caught this then your pumpkins are probably done for

Wilting pumpkin leaves

Don't worry about leaves wilting during the heat of the day as long as they recover by morning. I would worry about the leaves turning brown. Don't water the leaves, water the ground as much as possible. Don't shade the plants they want lots of sun. Squash are very hardy plants so just be patient.

Pumpkins needed In Spring

Hello,

I'm on a commercial and am in need of some pumpkins for June 27th in Los Angeles. Would love it if anyone has a clue where to find Pumpkins this time of year... Am willing to pay for shipment from anywhere in the USA. THANK YOU!

Pumpkin fruit

I have a problem with my pumpkin.As soon as the fruit is formed and grows as big as a tennis ball the plant drops the fruit..May I have some suggestions please? Thanks

Pumpkin Dropping Fruit

When pumpkins drop their flowers or fruit, it’s usually a sign that they aren’t getting enough water. While they are growing their fruit, they should be watered regularly and kept moist. Extremely hot summer temperatures can exacerbate this problem, too. Using a drip irrigation system is ideal, as it will provide consistent watering right at the soil level.

how to grow pumpkin in small space

How to grow pumpkins in small space.If you have a large medium square planter pot which is perfect for anyone who is beginning to learn about growing pumpkins and they do love any kinds of soil just make sure it is fresh and plant them early April at the most because they will grow and spon up very fast and tall and make sure you have plenty of water as it really needs it during the hot days of those months. The Pumpkin's will not be ready to pop out until it is the right time of the season but the stems and leaf will grow at fast rate.make sure you keep the soil wet but not swampy nor too too dry not even dry but enough wet and dry so they can be healthy.you don't need,that much food to give it.just water and sun is all you need.

I hope I helped some beginner's who want to learn how to grow pumpkins.

small space pumpkins

Thanks, Jason. Your advice, and maybe a few particulars from above, could result in something wonderful! Thanks for your palpable enthusiasm!

Pumpkins in containers

I have never been successful growing pumpkins in containers -- they just stay small and produce nothing but the occasional male flower. Do you know what I can be doing wrong? I have used rich soil and keep them watered. I can grow them in the garden, although I usually get only one per plant as my growing season is short.

Growing Pumpkins

Botanical Name	Cucurbita maxima, C. moschata, C. argyrosperma
Plant Type	Vegetable
Sun Exposure	Full Sun
Soil Type	Any
Soil pH
Bloom Time
Flower Color
Hardiness Zones	3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
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Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Pumpkins

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Planting

Selecting a Site

Planting by Seed

Care

Pump Up Your Pumpkins!

Pests/Diseases

Harvest/Storage

Recommended Varieties

Wit & Wisdom

Pumpkin Trivia

Carving Pumpkins

Recipes

Cooking Notes

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Growing Pumpkins

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