For daily wit & wisdom, get the Almanac newsletter.

How to Grow Cherries: The Complete Guide

Cherries are much better picked off a branch at home than from the supermarket.

Botanical Name
Prunus avium (Sweet Cherries), Prunus cerasus (Sour Cherries)
Grown as
Perennial
USDA Zones
4a
4b
5a
5b
6a
6b
7a
7b
Toxicity
Toxic to Dogs and Cats
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Water Needs
High
Height
10–20 feet
Spread
6-10 feet
Soil pH
Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Pink
White
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Fall Color
Winter Interest
Attracts Pollinators
Attracts Songbirds
Resilience
Cold Hardy
Plant Type
Fruit
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Cherry trees are gorgeous all year long, from their spring blossoms to their luscious fruit in midsummer. 

Learn how to grow and harvest both sweet and tart cherries. Also, be sure to protect your cherries from bird damage!

  • Sweet cherries are the variety most often found in markets. They have a thick, rich, and almost plum-like texture. Sweet cherries grow in hardiness Zones 5 to 7; they are self-sterile and best for an orchard or a large garden. You’ll need at least two or three trees, as they’ll need to pollinate each other. If space is limited, consider the dwarf self-pollinating cultivar ‘Stella’.
  • Sour cherries are not usually eaten raw, but are widely used for preserves and other cooking uses. Sour cherries are much smaller than sweet cherries and all varieties are self-fertile. They grow in Zones 4 to 6.

Cherry trees generally start bearing fruit in their fourth year; dwarf trees bear fruit a year earlier. One mature, standard-size tart or sweet cherry tree will produce 30 to 50 quarts of cherries each year; a dwarf tree, about 10 to 15 quarts.

Plant cherry trees in early spring or late fall (when the ground is soft and has a higher moisture content) in a sunny site with good air circulation and deep, well-drained soil. Apply mulch and water well. After flowering in a fruiting year, you’ll need to drape trees with wildlife-safe netting to protect the fruit from birds.

Planting

Plant cherry trees in a sunny site with good air circulation; avoid planting near larger trees or buildings that will shade the cherries. Ideally, cherry trees should get at least 6 hours of sunlight each day.

Cherry trees do best in deep, well-draining soil that has a pH of 6.0-7.0.

Space sweet cherries 35 to 40 feet apart; dwarfs, 5 to 10 feet apart. Space tart cherries 20 to 25 feet apart; dwarfs, 8 to 10 feet apart.

When to Plant Cherry Trees

  • Plant cherries in the late fall or early spring (when the ground is soft and has a higher moisture content).
  • When selecting sweet cherries, make sure the different varieties will pollinate each other.

How to Plant Cherry Trees

  • Trees on standard rootstock should be planted with the graft union a few inches below the soil level. Trees on dwarf rootstock should be planted with the graft union several inches above the soil level, which will prevent the graft from growing its own roots and bypassing the rootstock.
  • When planting fan-trained trees, construct the necessary supports before planting. Plant fans only 12 to 15 feet apart.
  • For bareroot trees, place the rootstock on a small mound of soil in the center of the planting hole, and spread the roots down and away, trying not to bend the roots. Backfill with soil.
  • For container-grown trees, first remove the rootball and set the tree on its side; cut through any pot-bound or encircled roots with shears. Don’t cover the top of the root-ball.

Check out this video to learn more about how to plant a bare–root fruit tree:

Growing

  • There is no difference in care between sour and sweet cherries.
  • Apply mulch around the tree to retain moisture, but leave several inches of bare earth around the trunk.
  • Drape netting over trees to protect the fruit from birds.
  • Water routinely in dry areas.
  • Thinning the fruit is not necessary for cherry trees, as they typically thin naturally in early summer.
  • Prune trees every year in late winter to encourage the growth of new fruiting wood. Don’t prune in the fall.
  • Fertilize early in spring with a low-nitrogen fertilizer (such as 5-10-10) a few weeks before trees start to flower, then fertilize as necessary (check soil fertility by testing the soil) until cherries are harvested. Do not fertilize after mid-summer, as new growth needs time to harden off before fall and winter.

Harvesting

  • Pick fruits only when FULLY ripe (dark red, black, yellow); the sugar content rises the few days before fully ripened.
  • Be ready to harvest within a week’s time. Eat or cook immediately.
  • Pick fruits when firm if they are to be frozen.
  • Be sure top pick with the cherry stem so you do not tear into the fruit, however, take care to lead the fruit spur to produce fruit next year.
  • Hand-picking may injure the shoots and cause infection; cut the stalks with scissors.
  • Remember that cherry trees do not typically bear fruit until their fourth year. Thereafter, they should produce about 30 to 50 quarts of cherries each year.

Pests and Problems

Birds are common pests, especially with sweet cherries (versus tarts). To avoid bird damage, you can drap nylon mesh netting over dwarf trees, but it’s difficult to cover the larger standard-size sweet cherry tree. Distracting objects such as pie pans can help, but birds can get used to them. 

Another solution is to grow a fruit tree nearby that will ripen before and during the cherry season, such as mulberry trees. (Avoid planting ‘Illinois Everbearing’ mulberry which ripens too late.)

Learn more about keeping birds out of the garden.

Other pests that attack cherries include fruit flies, apple maggots, peach tree borers, and caterpillars (specifically the larvae of the plum curculio). Ask your local garden center about approved sprays.

Brown rot and cherry leaf spot affect both tart and sweet cherries. Black knot and powdery mildew are potential problems for some areas.

Types

Sweet Cherries

  • Early - ‘Black Tartarian’
  • Midseason - ‘Bing’
  • Late - ‘Stella’

Sour Cherries

  • Early - ‘Early Richmond’
  • Midseason - ‘Montmorency’
  • Late - ‘Meteor’

Wit and Wisdom

A cherry year, a merry year.

There is a famous myth that President George Washington cut down a cherry tree and then admitted his wrongdoing to his father. This myth was invented by a biographer of President Washington, who hoped to display his honesty. We still think it’s a great idea to commemorate President’s Day with a delicious cherry pie recipe!

Fruit

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

More Like This

Comments

<span>Richard</span> Sun, 07/30/2017 - 21:40
We unfortunately live in a neighborhood that has taken a turn for the worse, and have had the same issue. we had 3 very large mature pecan trees, that led to people consistently invading our yard for the pecans. sadly if all they did was pick up the pecans I would have no problem however in the course of their forays into our yard for the nuts they also tended to break into the garage and cars. we have since cut the trees down (an action that made me want to cry. they were beautiful trees). Since then we have had no further problems with theft and damage to our property in the last several years. my advice to anyone is to STRONGLY discourage people from planting fruit trees or other crops in a portion of yard that is readily accessible by the public.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 04/10/2017 - 09:25

Hi Crystal,

The front lawn is a good place to plant cherry trees as long as they will be away from any paved driveways or structures, and have good air circulation. As for the question of if watering the lawn twice a week would be bad for the trees, it depends on how much water you use and how well your soil drains. Young cherry trees have undeveloped root systems close to the surface which means they are more susceptible to over watering, especially if the soil does not drain well. They each need about 5 gallons of water twice a week.

Do you know how many gallons of water you use each week to water the lawn? Are you watering with a hose by hand, or with a sprinkler system? If you do so with a hose by hand, simply water the trees directly first, and then avoid them when watering the rest of the lawn. If you have a sprinkler system, change the direction of the sprinklers so they face away from the trees and then water their roots by hand later.

We hope this helps!

 <span>Walter Desouza</span> Fri, 01/13/2017 - 00:49
I purchased as Lapins Cherry tree for $ 60/- 6 years ago from Tassajara nursery in Danville,Ca.When purchased i was advised that i did not need another tree for cross pollination and it now appears that i do need another tree to enable this old tree to produce fruit. Will you please suggest what type of tree i need to purchase and at what distance to plant.The present tree (Prunus avium sp) is best known as " self fertile bing."
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 01/23/2017 - 16:41

Lapin cherry trees are indeed self-fertile.  They should fruit by five years. If this is not happening, there are other reasons. Did the tree flower? If not, is the tree being pruned too severely? It is important not to cut off the spurs or short shoots on which flowers form.  Did the tree flower but not fruit? If the tree does not require another pollinator (as in this case), the problem could be cold and/or wet weather during bloom, which reduces the activity of pollinator insects, preventing the transfer of pollen. Such weather conditions also prevent pollen tube growth in the female parts of the flower. We hope this advice is helpful and would suggest contacting your tree nursery. 

 <span>Orrin Lind</span> Tue, 12/20/2016 - 16:42
Would it be possible to grow any type of sweet cherry in Alberta, Canada? It gets quite cold here in the winters, but would it be possible to cover either the tree or the roots to protect it from the cold winter? We love Bing Cherries!
<span>Sean</span> Fri, 05/05/2017 - 23:17
Try the Romance Series of cherries developed by U of Saskatchewan for cold climates. They are the sour variety, but the 'Juliet' and 'Crimson Passion' types have high sugar content: 18-22 brix.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 12/23/2016 - 14:00

The short answer is yes. However, it will require a bit of work and commitment in terms of wrapping the tree for protection every year. We suggest contacting a local tree expert/arborist to ask about the success rate of bing cherry tree-growing in your region. People who have had success can often provide all kinds of helpful how-to hints that they have learned from trial and error. Best of luck with your bings!

 <span>Raquel</span> Wed, 10/19/2016 - 12:55
Is it possible to grow Cherry Tree's in Southeast Texas?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 10/20/2016 - 16:09

Texas A&M recommends sour cherry trees for your region, specifically Prunus cerasus 'Montmorency'. They are highly ornamental and would make a nice addition to a landscape.

 <span>Dinesh</span> Thu, 09/15/2016 - 16:09
Hi, Is the plant grows well in the place with temperature about 34°C? I could not find any place that growing cherry tree in Malaysia. Is it possible to start one?....I'm seriously into that plant. If yes, where can I buy a grown tree? Thank you :-D