Growing Plums

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Plums

By The Editors
Plums on Branch
Pixabay

Share: 

Ever thought about growing plums? If grown in the right spot, plums can be prolific producers and add beauty to your backyard. Plus, plums are delicious cooked in jams and cakes or eaten right out of hand! Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest plums!

Plums are a type of stone fruit, which also includes peaches, nectarines, apricots, and cherries. 

Choosing a Plum Tree

  • It’s important to choose a type of plum that will work with your location. There are three major categories of plum trees: European, Japanese, and American hybrids.
    • The hardy European types do well in most regions across the U.S., whereas the Japanese types flourish where peach trees thrive (warmer regions, generally). The Japanese plums’ early blooms make them more susceptible to spring frosts in colder areas. American hybrids are typically the hardiest of the plums, with some varieties being able to survive as far north as Zone 3. 
  • European plums are generally self-fertile, but Japanese and American hybrid plums usually need to cross-pollinate with a second variety for cross-pollination. So, if you have space for only one tree, go with a European plum. However, even self-fertile trees will produce better if cross-pollinated with a second tree.
  • Order bare-root, rather than container-grown trees, if possible. Bare-root plants usually establish better. A well-established tree will yield up to 2 bushels of plums from late summer into fall.

See our lovely video showing how to plant a plum tree and find detailed information below.

Planting

When to Plant Plum Trees

  • Plant plum trees in late winter or early spring while the trees are dormant.

Selecting a Planting Site

Plums should really only be planted in a prime location featuring all of the following characteristics. Otherwise, they may not perform well.

  • Plant plum trees in loamy, well-drained soil. Plums do not do well when planted in clay-heavy soils or in locations where their roots will be constantly wet. 
  • Choose a planting location that receives full sun—6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight at the very least.
  • Avoid planting in low areas where frost may settle, as the frost can damage your trees. Because they flower so early, plums are especially vulnerable to spring frosts, which can damage blooms and result in sub-par fruiting.
  • If possible, find a sheltered location, such as a south- or west-facing spot out of the wind. This will help the plum tree set fruit.

How to Plant a Plum Tree

  • Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart and dwarf trees 10 to 15 feet apart.
  • Set bare-root trees atop a small mound of soil in the center of the planting hole, and spread the roots down and away without unduly bending them. 
  • To prepare a container-grown tree for planting, remove the tree from its pot and get rid of any tightly circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to trim off these roots. Do your best to untangle roots without damaging roots, but if the root ball is particularly pot-bound, you can loosen it by scraping up and down the sides with a knife or hand fork.
  • When planting grafted trees, it’s important to keep the graft union 1 to 2 inches above the soil line. This is especially true for dwarf varieties, as roots may start to grow from above the graft if the tree is planted too deep, bypassing the rootstock that keeps the tree dwarf-size.
  • Dig a hole that’s a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots.
    • For bare-root trees, set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole and spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them.
    • For container-grown trees, simply place the root ball in the middle of the hole.
    • Fill in the hole, stopping periodically to make sure that the roots are thoroughly covered and no air pockets remain around the tree.
  • Water the tree thoroughly at the time of planting; this helps the soil to settle around the roots. Keep the tree well watered for the first few weeks after planting.
  • For bare-root trees, it’s often recommended to stake the tree for at least one year, until the tree is stable enough to stand on its own.

Check out our video to learn more about planting a bare–rooted fruit tree.

Care

How to Care for Plum Trees

Watering

  • Be sure to water the young trees heavily every week during the first growing season to help promote growth. Then, water regularly. It’s best to water the plant deeply at the soil line, then let the soil dry out (though not completely) and water again.
  • If rain is lacking, water your tree well into mid-October to give it plenty of moisture through the winter months.

Fertilizing

  • Do not fertilize young fruit trees until they have set a crop.
  • Once established, fruit production requires regular fertilizing all year long. If there’s good fruit set, fertilize with one pound calcium nitrate per tree or 1½ lb. 10-10-10. Cut back the nitrogen in fall and winter to avoid encouraging new growth in those seasons.

General Care

  • Are you having pest issues? Talk to your local cooperative extension for natural solutions that work in your area.
  • To help control pests and diseases, remember to prune your trees to keep them open. You can also mulch around the trees in the spring to help control weeds, but be sure to remove the mulch in the late fall so that no pests use it over the winter. You can also lightly cultivate the soil around your trees in late spring to eliminate any pests in the soil.
  • In the fall, rake away all debris and fallen trees.
  • To prevent winter injury: Consider a tree wrap or guard around the lower trunk, especially for a young plum tree.
  • Keep an eye on the lower bark and branches for mouse or rabbit damage; if this could be a problem, you may need to install tree guards or fence in young trees with chicken wire for the winter.

plums on the branch

How to Prune Plum Trees

When to Prune

  • Prune in early spring or mid-summer to avoid infection. The best time for pruning is usually spring for young trees and mid-summer for established ones.
  • Do NOT prune in the fall. Winter injury and infection may occur.

Thinning Fruit

“Thinning” is the process of removing developing fruit from a tree in order to increase the overall quality of the produced fruit and to prevent damage to the tree.

  • Thinning is usually done about a month after blooming ends in the spring.
  • Leave 2-4 inches between each fruit, removing those in between. 
  • Thinning helps to prevent branches from breaking under the weight of the fruit. If branches do break, prune them back to undamaged wood, ideally cutting back to a natural fork to avoid leaving stubs.

Pruning: Japanese Plum Trees

  • If you have a Japanese variety, the best pruning method is to create an “open center” shape, where the central trunk is cut short and several large branches radiate outwards from it’s tip. In the summer of the first year, cut the vigorous shoots that form on the top of the tree by two or three buds. After about a month, check the tree. As soon as you have three wide-angled branches, spaced equally apart, cut back any other branches so that these three are the main branches. In the early summer of the second year, cut back the branches in the middle of the tree to short stubs and prune any shoots developing below the three main branches. After the third year, remove any shoots in the center of the tree to keep its shape.
  • Japanese types require heavy pruning to help keep them in shape and to produce better fruit. It is also good to thin out the fruit on these types of trees. You should space the plums about 3 to 4 inches apart on each branch.

Pruning: European Plum Trees

  • If you have a European variety, the best pruning method is to create a central leader. This shape features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree.
  • European types do not typically require fruit thinning because they do not produce as much fruit as Japanese types. However, the fruit on these types should be spaced about 2 inches apart on each branch.

For more pruning tips, check our spring pruning guide.

Pests/Diseases

Contact your local cooperative extension to implement a spraying program that can help manage these pests and diseases.

Harvest/Storage

When to Harvest Plums

  • Plums are ready to be harvested from late summer into fall, depending on your area.
  • European plums have the best flavor when left to ripen on the tree. You can tell when plums are ripe by applying gentle pressure with your fingers. If the skin of the fruit feels soft, then it is ready to be picked. Plums should come off the tree easily with just a slight twist of the fruit.
  • Japanese plums are picked slightly earlier; allow them to ripen in a cool place.
  • Plums will not sweeten much after harvest, so be sure to pick them when they’re mature. (Try one before you pick them all!)

How to Store Plums

  • Unfortunately, the fruit does not store for long, so must be eaten or preserved. Alternatively, you can pick the fruits when they are still slightly firm and store them in a cool place to fully ripen.
  • The best place to store plums is in the refrigerator. The best temperature for storing plums is about 31° to 32°F with relative humidity around 90–95%; if kept at this temperature, plums may last for 2 to 4 weeks.

Recommended Varieties

  • For a European type, try the ‘Stanley’. This semi-freestone type is works great for the eastern, midwestern, and some of the northwest regions of the U.S. It is self-fertile, meaning no cross-pollination is necessary. It’s harvested in late August, producing medium to large plums with dark blue skin and greenish-yellow flesh and is great for cooking, canning, or eating fresh.
  • For a Japanese type, try the ‘Satsuma’, which produces large, dark-red plums. This kind is good for eating fresh and canning because of its sweet taste.
  • American hybrid trees, such as ‘Alderman’, ‘Superior’, and ‘Underwood’, are all popular choices. These trees combine the taste of the Japanese variety with the hardiness of the European variety. These types work well for regional extremes.

Wit & Wisdom

“The children were nestled all snug in their beds,
While visions of sugar-plums danced in their heads.”
–Clement Clarke Moore, “A Visit from St. Nicholas” (a.k.a “ ‘Twas the Night Before Christmas”), 1822

Recipes

Cooking Notes

  • Plums are great for making jams or jellies.
  • Plums can also be stored through freezing or drying them (dried plums are prunes).
  • One of our favorite plum recipes is this Heavenly Plum Kuchen.

recipe-plum_kuchen_becky_luigart_stayner.jpg
Image Credit: Becky Luigart-Stayner

Vegetable Gardener's Handbook

vegetable_gardeners_handbook_spring_ad.png

What do you want to read next?

Reader Comments

Leave a Comment

How closely to plant the x-pollinator?

Submitted by Scott on April 24, 2021 - 4:37pm

I purchased a Hollywood variety for my Seattle area home, and now realize I need a 2nd variety for x-pollination. The next closest location for the 2nd tree would be about 100' away. Is that too far for an effective x-pollination sibling?

Thanks

Cross-Pollination Distance

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on April 26, 2021 - 4:49pm

The recommended maximum distance between plum trees is 50 feet, but as long as there are plenty of pollinators in your area, 100 feet shouldn’t be too far. You may just end up with fewer plums than ideal—but that’s better than no plums!

Plum Tree Drops

Submitted by Pam Wells on August 27, 2020 - 9:23am

My Stanley Plum Tree dropped over half its unripened fruit in early July and then dropped more in August. It does not appear diseased. Is that a sign of lack of fertilizer or hot weather? Or some other reason?

Stanley plum drop

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on August 27, 2020 - 3:35pm

That’s unfortunate. It’s unlikelly to be too much or too little fertilizer. Premature fruit drop is common among fruit trees; it’s Mother Nature’s way of reducing the load—especially if you do not thin the fruit load yourself (prune when plums are about ¾-inch long, leaving 4 to 6 inches between remaining fruits). Weather could be a factor; high heat in early spring can stress the tree, and if conditions in general have been dry, the tree may not be well irrigated.

Plum Trees But No Fruit

Submitted by Teresa on August 27, 2020 - 8:16am

I'm in zone 4 and two years ago bought a home with two plum trees on the property. They are quite large, have lovely, fragrant blooms in early spring, but have produced no fruit at all. What could be wrong? The trees are healthy looking with no sign of pests or disease. Help?

why no fruit?

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on August 27, 2020 - 3:39pm

Your fruit tree may be too young. Plum trees typically bear within 4 to 6 years of planting.

Birds and squirrels

Submitted by Joe on July 13, 2020 - 8:08am

I have a plum tree that produces amazing fruit and a large abundance of it! Last year we were overrun with worms and did not harvest any edible fruit. This year we had another amazing crop...we did not get any fruit due to birds and squirrels! Frustrated!

plum tree pests

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 17, 2020 - 2:51pm

That is indeed very frustrating! Sometimes plums need a spraying program to combat various worms (insect larvae) that attack the fruit. If you are interested in pursuing that, you can check with your county’s Cooperative Extension as to recommendations. To get started, visit this page to find contact information for your area:

https://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services

For birds, you might try bird netting, available at many garden centers. Install this over the entire tree (easier with dwarf fruit trees) and tie shut at the trunk below the leaves, so that birds can’t get in underneath the netting. Be sure no fruit is right against the edge of the netting.

A few gardeners just place mesh bags over small fruit clusters that are developing, if it is a small garden. Some people also hang among the branches strips of special metallic-looking tape made for this purpose, or similar items, with mixed success. Others use items made to look like owls or owl eyes–also with mixed success.

Hope this helps!

Will I have fruit?

Submitted by Rose on April 17, 2019 - 3:17pm

Ok I feel like this is a stupid question but here we go.. so a month ago I bought a Santa Rosa plum tree from a nursery and it’s small probably was a 5 gallon. Now I’ve noticed that there are small green fruit developing... I literally just got this tree and was reading you don’t get fruit until about 4 years. Are these small green fruits I see developing going to be plums I can harvest already this year?

early ripening plums

Submitted by ray jones on February 2, 2019 - 2:02pm

I had a plum tree in my yard for over 30 years they were red until full ripeness,then turned dark ,almost purple these were the best ever. they ripened by july 4. it died and I cant find any like it h.fields or stark bros. they are shaped more like a plum tomato than round . any clues? bought this at harts,aka big bear stores,they're gone too. if not .whats the earliest ripening plum variety.ray,ohio zone 6b thanks

Purple Prune Plum

Submitted by JC on April 14, 2019 - 8:11pm

Hi Ray,

Greetings. I recognized and befriended a neighbour at a chance meeting at Walmart :o) garden end of season sale! She invited me to pick prune plums at her place. There were 2 bountiful years and then no harvest last year/2018.

At the same time, I went around l@@king and chasing the same dark purple prune plum...At first, I spotted some at a local nursey with pretty costly price tags. I kept looking. Guest what...there were plenty on sale at a very decent price (1/3) at Costco in 2017...I bought one. It returned last spring/summer 2018 with plenty of blossoms. However, It is still young, no harvest just yet. I was told, it is common to have lots of blossoms with no fruits in the early years for young fruit trees.

Keep l@@king and visit your local garden centres, nursery and with a happy carefree joyful heart, you will find one. All the best!

location of Royal Plum

Submitted by cathy on June 30, 2018 - 5:52pm

I plan to plant my Royal Plum on the west side of a building. It will be protected from the wind and have south and west sun. Is that enough sun for this type of plum tree.

Help with plum trees

Submitted by Cathe on April 28, 2018 - 12:59pm

We are in a house with plum trees. They flower every year but the flowers seem to be fewer every year. We have lived here 4 years. The bark is splitting and has not produced any fruit. Also they are dark brown, almost black. Can you help? Thank you.

Combination Plum Tree.

Submitted by Clarence on March 3, 2018 - 2:25am

I have several combination plum trees in my backyard ( Satsuma+Santa Rosa+Shiro+ Italian Prunes ) my question is the dominant ones (Satsuma & Santa Rosa) are the ones bearing fruits but not the Italian Prunes or the Shiro varieties although the trunk and leaves are healthy, they never blooms. Why?

damson plum

Submitted by JUDITH LAWRENCE on November 16, 2017 - 12:46pm

HELLO, I HAVE A DAMSON PLUM IN GROUND 8 YEARS NOW AND NO FRUIT, IT ALSO HAS SHORT VERY SHARP POINTED SPURS ON BRANCHES, I DO NOT NOTICE FLOWERING ALSO. WHAT KIND OF POLLINATOR DOES IT NEED.
I HAVE BEES IN THE ORCHARD ALSO?
IN PUGET SOUND WASHINGTON STATE. THANK YOU JUDITH

plum pollinator

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on November 20, 2017 - 10:07am

Hi Judith, A Damson Plum will fare better with a pollinator tree nearby. You must have a compatible variety which blooms at the same time. We would suggest Green Gage or Stanley. Honey bees are the major pollinator. The flowers grow on those short spurs. We hope this helps and would advise contacting your local Washington State cooperative extension for on-the-ground help!

Caring for a plum tree in container

Submitted by Cary on October 21, 2017 - 1:51pm

Hi..I have recently germinated a plum tree and planted it in a pot, fall is coming and I need to know how to take care of it. Do i move it inside? if so, what methods do I need to do to take care of it. How long do I leave it outside till I move it inside? Any help it appreciated. Thank You.

Plum tree not bearing fruit, Husband threatening to Cut Down

Submitted by Missy on August 19, 2017 - 3:35pm

Hi,
My husband and I planted these trees about 3 1/2 years ago and it has not beared anything. I'm not sure what kind of plum tree it is we got it from some whole seller and it didn't say.. my husband is now saying if it don't produce next year he is gonna cut it down.. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated . Thank You

Fruitless Plum Tree

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on August 22, 2017 - 8:58am

It sounds like your plum tree may not be a self-pollinating variety, which means that it will need a friend to cross-pollinate with in order to produce fruit. If the tree looks perfectly healthy and strong in every other aspect, lack of cross-pollination is likely the problem. So, instead of chopping the tree down, you should plant another plum tree nearby!

Italian plum production

Submitted by Gardenlady on July 24, 2017 - 5:52pm

Last year was the first time my Italian plum produced. My tree is probably 5 or 6 years old. I had more plums than I knew what to do with. This year there doesn't seem to be as many plums. The tree seems to be healthy. Do the trees produce every year or only every other year? Thanks

Santa Rosa plum tree

Submitted by cindy on June 30, 2017 - 8:05pm

ive had my tree for 4yrs and ive moved it a couple of times which we didnt get a lot of fruit but we did last year.this year looked to be a big bucket full but a while back in april/may the branches started to look like they were dying back but we water and then the plums did not get any bigger.now they are turning purple but they are tiny. does anyone know why?? tks

Small Plums

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 5, 2017 - 3:33pm

Small fruits can be caused by a number of factors. Did you happen to experience a frost in April or May? This could have been the cause of your tree’s slight dieback and ultimately smaller fruits. Sub-par pollination of flowers can also result in small fruits, as can insufficient pruning, fertilization, and fruit-thinning. See the “Care” section, above, for advice on pruning, thinning, and fertilizing plum trees to get healthier fruits.

small plums

Submitted by cindy on July 23, 2017 - 4:25pm

well lets see its a self pollinating tree.so maybe we need to ck out the pruining section then,as for the bees we have a problem with them as they are dying out here in California so ..... thank you for getting back to me.About how many plums are too many on a tree that we need to take some off?Its a semi-dwarf tree.Its about 7ft tall and 5ft wide,we had about 100 to 150 plums on it.??? please let me know

Thinning Plums

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 24, 2017 - 9:38am

For plum trees, you want to leave about 2 to 4 inches between fruits, which give them enough room to expand. However, be aware that thinning is typically done between April and early June, so it’s unlikely that thinning will increase the fruit’s size at this point in time. We would still suggest doing it, though, especially if your tree is looking very weighted down by its fruit.

bees dying out.

Submitted by vocalpatriot on August 25, 2017 - 7:20pm

BULL PUCKY!! Bees are NOT dying out in california. that is a lie being propagated by supporters of the monsanto foods dynasty. they were caught destroying bee hives on private property. All I can say is it'd be best if they not find themselves near MY land.

After 5 years of great harvest last year my plums tasted bitter.

Submitted by D.T. Dolejs on May 25, 2017 - 8:58pm

The yield was the same with perfect fruit, but the fruit was bitter. What should I do for the future?

italian Prune Plum and American Plum

Submitted by Star Maccan on April 18, 2017 - 2:15pm

I planted what I think is an American plum 5 years ago from Home Depot. It has flowered every year but never produced any fruit. After doing some research I though maybe it was a kind that needed cross pollination. So I bought an Italian prune plum from Home Depot this year and planted it 10 feet away from the much taller American plum. I am now worried that they will not cross pollinate or even bloom at the same time. Can someone tell me if these two types cross pollinate? Thank you so much.

Italian-American Relations

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on April 20, 2017 - 9:21am

Hi, Star: Yes, your American plum needs cross-pollination and in fact is an excellent cross-pollenizer itself. Your Italian prune plum is probably self-pollinating (“probably,” because these days there are various hybrids out there with differing characteristics) but of course could still help the American. Give it some time. Also, read up (in the Old Farmer’s Almanac and also in the Old Farmer’s Almanac Garden Guide print publications, as well as here on Almanac.com) on how to make sure that your place is as pollinator-friendly (e.g., bees) as possible. The other thing you might do is ask at Home Depot. Perhaps they get these questions and have answers specific to what they sell. Thanks for asking, and good luck!

Maturing and if I am in a good growing zone?

Submitted by Vanessa L. Miller on April 2, 2017 - 1:50am

I just planted 2 flowering um trees. These are the first trees I have planted ever. I understand they are a good beginner tree, I have followed all directions and have an appropriate soil conditions. I love in Sun City AZ. What are my chances for being successful with these trees. Also how long will it be before they would reach max. Height. I appreciate any information as I am rely wanting to be successful with these two trees.

Plum Crazy

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on April 5, 2017 - 10:45am

Hi, Vanessa: Well, no, you’re not plumb crazy for being plum crazy in Sun City, but a lot of your success will depend on which cultivar you have and how you treat your trees. Presumably your local nursery or wherever you got it would not provide you with something unsuitable for growing, but in general flowering plums do best in hardiness Zones 5 to 8, and you are in slightly warmer Zone 9b. The time to height maturity will vary with cultivars, too, but many will top 15 feet in 5 to 10 years. Flowering plums are fairly drought-tolerant, but you will have to find the delicate balance between keeping them sufficiently moist and not letting them sit around in water, which encourages fungal diseases. Also, if possible, protect them from any strong winds during their first year or two, as they can be pretty delicate. WE are plumb crazy about the way you are caring so much about these trees, and we’re sure that both you and they will be a success. Thanks for writing!

Pages

Growing Plums

Botanical Name Prunus spp.
Plant Type Fruit
Sun Exposure Full Sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Pink, White
Hardiness Zones 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
Special Features

FREE BEGINNER'S GARDEN GUIDE!

Sign up for our email newsletter by entering your email address.

BONUS: You’ll also receive our free Beginner Gardening Guide!

The Almanac Webcam

Almanac Headquarters Cam

Visit the Almanac HQ Webcam

Chosen for You from The Old Farmer's Store

Sign up for our email newsletter by entering your email address.

BONUS: You’ll also receive our Almanac Companion newsletter!