Growing Figs

The roots are probably too deep to be affected by warmth from the pavers, however, the bigger issue with pavers is that they could prevent water from reaching all the roots effectively. We would recommend using a porous covering, such as landscaping fabric or a 2-inch layer of bark mulch (or both). This will help to prevent weeds, but also allow water to reach the roots. Mulches will also help to hold moisture in the soil in times of drought.

How wet or dry is the soil? Leaves that turn brown, dry up, and fall off suggest that the soil is too dry. Moss doesn’t grow deep enough to directly interfere with the roots, though it will act as a sponge and soak up some of the water that would otherwise go to the fig. If it’s been a dry spring where you are, you may need to be watering the tree by hand as well. 

For now, remove some of the moss and feel two to three inches deep into the soil. If the soil is dry, you may want to remove all of the moss and replace it with a layer of bark mulch. This will allow water to flow into the pot but not evaporate too quickly. 

Alternatively, the problem could be that the soil is being kept too wet and the roots are rotting. Have you been getting a lot of rain? The moss could be trapping too much moisture in the soil. In any case, you’ll have to do some poking around in the soil to figure out the issue first!

It is hard to know, and may depend on the health of the plant, pruning, climate, variety, etc. But if your fig normally produces 2 crops per year, it is possible that some may form later in the season. Some figs produce a breba crop in spring/summer on last year’s growth, and then a main crop later in summer/fall on current year’s growth. Others may produce only a breba or only a main crop.

Although many figs are self-fertile, some require a pollinator to set fruit; fruit will drop early if not pollinated correctly. Be sure to water consistently, and shade in extreme heat. Too much nitrogen can also deter fruiting.

It’s probably best to check with the grower on the type of fig tree and spacing requirements. For example, the Black Jack Fig is a semi-dwarf tree which grows up to 15 feet tall and 15 feet wide, but can easily be kept to 6 feet with annual pruning. Other semi-dwarfs are larger or smaller.

We’ve often seen fig trees planted in Turkey on the sunniest side of a building. Plant them about 4 feet from the building. Roots of fig trees will not damage masonry foundations of buildings or steel pipe, but they may damage clay sewer pipe. Do not plant fig trees within 25 feet of clay sewer pipe or over septic tank drain fields. If you plant fig trees in a lawn, keep a 2- to 3-foot area around each tree free of grass for à year or two until the tree becomes established.

There are ways to reduce an overgrown fig tree. Best time to do so in most cases is during late winter, when the tree is dormant. To reduce the size, you might want to work at it gradually, over three years. Each time, reduce the size of the fruiting wood back by ¼ to ⅓. (Also remove any suckers, diseased or rubbing branches, etc.) Keep in mind that you may forfeit part or all of the next year’s crop by doing so. (Some figs produce a breba crop in spring/summer on last year’s growth, and then a main crop later in summer/fall on current year’s growth. Others may produce only a breba or only a main crop. Pruning techniques may vary, depending on the type you have, and your region’s climate.) Heavy pruning can expose previously shaded branches to sunlight, possibly causing sunscald. To avoid this, some experts advise whitewashing the trunks. Hope this helps!