Plant garlic in fall, after the weather has cooled but before the ground freezes. In colder climates, a useful rule of thumb is to plant about 1 to 2 weeks after the first killing frost, giving the cloves time to develop roots before winter.

Garlic needs a period of cold temperatures for good bulb development. Fall-planted garlic receives this chilling naturally over winter. If you plant garlic in spring, chill the cloves in the refrigerator for about 8 weeks beforehand, then plant as soon as the soil can be worked.

In many areas, garlic goes into the ground around the same time as spring-flowering bulbs, generally from September through November. Gardeners in mild-winter climates may plant later, but spring-planted garlic often produces smaller bulbs.

Where to Plant Garlic

Plant garlic in full sun, with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day, and in fertile, well-drained soil. Before planting, work compost or other well-rotted organic matter into the soil to improve its structure and fertility.

Good drainage is especially important. Garlic can rot in soil that stays wet, so if you have heavy clay or poorly drained soil, consider planting in a raised bed.

How to Plant Garlic

Plant garlic as individual cloves, 2 to 3 inches deep and about 4 to 6 inches apart, with the pointed end facing up. Separate the cloves from the bulb just before planting, and leave the papery skins intact.

Start with healthy seed garlic. Choose large, firm, disease-free bulbs from a reputable nursery, garden center, or seed supplier.
Separate the bulb into cloves just before planting. Use the largest healthy cloves and keep their papery skins on. Larger cloves generally produce larger bulbs.
Plant each clove 2 to 3 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up.
Space cloves about 4 to 6 inches apart. If planting in rows, leave enough room between rows for weeding and tending the plants.
Water after planting to settle the soil around the cloves.

Planting garlic cloves in the soil — Credit: YuriyS/Getty Images

Growing

Watering

Keep garlic evenly moist during active spring growth, especially as the bulbs begin to form. Garlic generally needs about 1 inch of water per week from rain or irrigation during dry weather, but avoid keeping the soil soggy.

As the lower leaves begin to yellow and harvest approaches, reduce and then stop watering. Too much moisture late in the season can delay curing and increase the risk of bulb problems.

Fertilizing

Garlic benefits from nitrogen while it is producing vigorous leafy growth in spring. Side-dress plants with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer when active growth resumes. In lower-fertility soils, a second light feeding may be helpful before the bulbs begin to enlarge.

Avoid heavy fertilizing once bulb formation is underway. A soil test is the best guide to whether your soil needs additional nutrients.

Pruning or Maintenance

Keep garlic beds weeded throughout the growing season. Garlic has shallow roots and does not compete well with weeds for water and nutrients.

If you are growing hardneck garlic, cut off the flower stalks, called scapes, after they emerge and begin to curl. Removing scapes helps the plant direct more energy into producing larger bulbs. The tender scapes are edible, too.

Seasonal Care

In cold-winter areas, a layer of straw or chopped leaves helps protect fall-planted garlic from repeated freezing and thawing. As growth resumes in spring, loosen or pull back heavy, matted mulch so the shoots can emerge easily.

A lighter layer of mulch can remain through the growing season to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

Types

Garlic comes in two main types: hardneck and softneck. The best choice depends largely on your climate and whether you value scapes, large cloves, or longer storage.

Hardneck garlic is generally more winter-hardy and is a good choice for colder climates. It produces a stiff central stalk and edible scapes, with fewer but typically larger cloves. Hardneck garlic does not store as long as softneck types. Popular varieties include ‘Chesnok Red’ and ‘German Red’.
Softneck garlic is well suited to many milder climates and generally stores longer than hardneck garlic. It usually produces more, smaller cloves and has flexible stems that can be braided after curing. Popular varieties include ‘California Early’ and ‘Inchelium Red’.

Harvesting

When to Harvest Garlic

Harvest garlic when about one-third to one-half of the leaves have turned yellow or brown, while several upper leaves are still green. Don’t wait until all the foliage has dried, or the bulbs may begin to split apart and won’t store as well.

Garlic planted in fall is typically ready to harvest the following summer, usually from June through August depending on your climate and the variety. If you’re unsure, carefully dig up one bulb to check it. Mature bulbs should have plump, well-defined cloves covered by several layers of papery skin.

If you’re growing hardneck garlic for scapes, harvest the scapes earlier in the season when they begin to curl.

How to Harvest Garlic

Loosen the soil around each bulb with a garden fork or shovel, taking care not to pierce or bruise it. Lift the whole plant from the soil rather than pulling hard on the stem.

Gently brush away large clumps of soil, but leave the leaves and roots attached while the garlic cures.

Storage

Garlic can be used fresh from the garden, but bulbs intended for storage should be cured first.

Place freshly harvested garlic in a warm, dry, shady location with good air circulation for about 2 to 4 weeks. Garlic is fully cured when the outer skins are papery, the neck and roots are dry, and the cloves feel firm.

After curing, gently brush away loose soil. Trim the roots and cut the stems to about 1 to 2 inches above the bulb, unless you’re growing softneck garlic and want to braid the tops.

Store cured garlic in a cool, dry, dark place with good air circulation. Softneck garlic generally stores longer than hardneck garlic.

Save a few of your largest, healthiest bulbs if you’d like to plant your own garlic again in fall.

Harvested garlic bulbs laying on a table in the sun — Photo by Nikolaeva Elena/Getty Images

Gardening Products

Pests and Problems

Common Problems

Bulbs are small or undersized: Crowding, low fertility, dry soil during active growth, planting too late, or leaving scapes on hardneck garlic can all limit bulb size. Give plants adequate space, steady moisture, and nutrients while they are actively growing.
Bulbs are splitting apart: Garlic may begin to separate into individual cloves when it is left in the ground too long. Harvest when the lower leaves have browned but several upper leaves are still green.
Leaves are turning yellow: Some yellowing is normal as garlic approaches harvest. If leaves yellow or wilt earlier in the season, check soil moisture and look closely for pest or disease symptoms before adding fertilizer.

Common Pests

Plants suddenly yellow or wilt, and bulbs have holes: Onion maggots may be feeding on the roots and bulbs. You may find small, cream-colored, legless maggots inside damaged bulbs. Remove badly affected plants, rotate garlic and other alliums to a different part of the garden, and use floating row covers where onion maggots have been a recurring problem.
Leaves develop whitish or silvery streaks and may become distorted: Check between the leaves for tiny onion thrips. Small infestations usually cause little damage in home gardens. Keep weeds under control, use mulch, and knock thrips from the foliage with a strong spray of water if needed.

Plant Diseases

Leaves yellow and wilt, and the base of the bulb develops fluffy white growth: These are signs of white rot. Small black, poppy-seed-like structures may also appear around the bulb. Remove infected plants and avoid moving contaminated soil or bulbs to other parts of the garden. Plant only clean, disease-free garlic in unaffected soil. White rot can survive in soil for more than 20 years, so crop rotation alone will not eliminate it.

Recipes

Sauteed Spinach with Shallots and Garlic

Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes

Garden Patch Potato Salad

Creamy Garlic Dressing

Basil & Garlic Stuffed Quail

Vegetables

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

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Comments

Add a Comment

Anonymous Fri, 05/10/2013 - 14:45

garlic does produce both flowers and seeds, but it is much easier to clone the bulbs, so seed isn't commonly sold. the seeds look just like onion seeds, and the scape will grow a flower head if left to do so.

Anonymous Fri, 05/03/2013 - 10:10

I just wanted to letyou know that I planted store bought garlic and I have had good results in their production. The stalks are large,no fungus,green scapes and they are not yellowing as yet.I plan to leave them till June or July before I harvest them .I did ammend the soil before planting and gave them some 10=10=10 in the winter well covered with compost and straw mulch.I paid 79 cents for a large head and planted the large outer cloves in October. Hope to share my crop with my friends who have seen my good results to my sixty to seventy heads growing until harvest.

Anonymous Thu, 08/09/2012 - 16:24

If u let the scape grow longer the top of it will bust open and it is filled with little seed like bulbs

Anonymous Mon, 06/25/2012 - 23:58

I haven't planted garlic before, and I planted some in May when I planted the rest of my vegetable garden in southeast Michigan. I am now learning that garlic is to be planted in the Fall. However, I have garlic plants that are about 5 inches tall now. Should they be harvested this year or should I let them stay in ground over winter?

<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 06/26/2012 - 10:59

Since it is OK to plant garlic in the Spring, you can safely harvest them when they are ready. Generally, garlic planted in Spring should be ready for harvest by late-July or early August. You'll want to pay attention to when the tops yellow and begin to fall over. If you'd like, you can plant again in the Fall! It's been noted that planting in the Fall MAY produce bigger and better bulbs. Read above for more info on Fall planting. Thank you for your interest in the Old Farmer's Almanac and our Web site.

Anonymous Fri, 05/18/2012 - 11:02

If scapes are not showing up, is there a problem, or do you just wait longer?

<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 05/18/2012 - 11:19

The scape appear a month or so after the first leaves so maybe it's a waiting game. Also, not all garlic varieties have scapes. Scapes form only on Hardneck varieties.

Jbl55 Tue, 10/26/2010 - 14:40

The first time I planted garlic, I cut off the scapes (what this article calls "flower shoots") when they appeared and threw them on the compost heap. A few weeks later I learned they can be used in cooking. Auggghhh! After I dried my tears, I began to look for garlic scape recipes and in the years since have had great fun with scapes (e.g. pesto). If left to mature, the scapes will make the plant think it's successfully reproduced so, as the article states, the bulb will not be as robust as it might. However, it's fun to let one or two mature so you can see the teeny tiny "head" of garlic seeds that will develop.

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Planting and Growing Garlic: From Cloves to Harvest

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