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Botanical Name
Gladiolus spp.
Grown as
Toxicity
Sun Exposure
Water Needs
Height
Spread
Soil pH
Bloom Time
Resilience
Plant Type
Planting
For the best blooms, plant glads in full sun (6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day) in well-draining soil that’s moderately fertile. They will not do well in heavy, soggy soil. Mix compost (humus) into your soil to improve consistency and fertility.
When to Plant Gladiolus
- Start planting gladiolus corms in the spring once the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed to at least 55°F (about 13°C). See your local frost dates here.
- From your last frost date to early summer, plant another round of corms every 10 days or so. This will result in continuous blooms through early fall!
- Depending on the variety, it takes between 60 and 90 days from the time glads are planted for the corms to root, grow, and bloom.
How to Plant Gladiolus
- Ready your garden by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to about 12 to 15 inches deep. After loosening the soil, mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost or aged manure.
- To ensure large-sized blooms, plant corms that are 1-1/4 inch or larger in diameter.
- Set the corm in the hole about 4 inches deep with the pointed end facing up. Cover with soil and press firmly.
- Space the corms 6 to 8 inches apart.
- If you grow gladioli primarily for cut flowers, plant them in rows. It’s easier to tend the plants and to harvest the flowers this way.
- If you plant glads with other flowers in borders or annual beds, plant the corms in groups of seven or more for the best effect.
- Water the corms thoroughly at planting.
- If you’re planting tall varieties, be sure to stake them at planting time. Be careful not to damage the corms with the stakes.
Growing
How to Grow Gladiolus
- Put a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch around your gladioli to keep your soil moist and help prevent weeds.
- If you get less than 1 inch of rain a week, water your plants regularly throughout the summer. Otherwise, water them moderately when they are growing to keep the soil moist.
- Remove the faded/dead flowers to ensure continuous blooms. Once all the flowers on a stalk are gone, cut the stalk off at about 2 to 3 inches above the soil.
- Be sure to leave the plant intact so it can mature and grow the corms for the next season.
Winter Protection for Gladiolus
- If you live in USDA Hardiness Zone 8 or warmer, put down a layer of hay or straw for winter protection. Gladiolus can remain in the ground through winter, provided a hard freeze (28°F or colder) isn’t common in your area.
- In colder regions (Zone 7 or colder), dig up gladioli corms once the foliage has faded after the first fall frost. A light frost will kill the foliage but not the rest of the plant. Be sure to dig up the gladiolus corms before a hard freeze (28°F), or the plants could be fatally damaged.
- All that said, many gardeners who live in the “border” Zones 6 and 7 have tried leaving glads in the ground and found that they survived; this is a judgment call based on your microclimate, your variety of gladiolus, and climate shifts.
Digging Up and Storing Gladioli Corms
To dig up the gladioli corms for winter storage, follow these tips:
- Use a spade and dig up the entire plant, grasping the top to pull it out of the soil. Avoid bruising or injuring corms while digging. Shake off all loose soil (do not wash them off) and discard damaged corms. Cut the stalk down to 1 to 2 inches above the corm. Save the small cormels separately if you so desire. These will bloom in 2 to 3 years if you replant them each spring.
- Allow the corms to dry in the sun for 1 or 2 days if the weather agrees. Sift out excess soil and place corms in wooden flats or trays. Cure in a warm and airy location for 2 to 3 weeks. Remove and throw away the oldest bottom corms (from the base of the new ones).
- Don’t remove the husks on the corms.
- Dust the corms with a fungicide (“bulb dust”) to avoid disease problems. Place dust and bulbs in a paper bag and shake vigorously.
- Store the corms in paper or cloth bags, pantyhose, or old onion sacks. Stack or hang the containers, so air can move among them. Store the corms at 35° to 45°F (2° to 7°C) in low humidity. A cool basement is quite suitable. Do not allow corms to freeze.
- Replant these corms in the spring for another year of beautiful blooms.
Harvesting
To cut glads for bouquets, follow these tips:
- Cut the flower stalks early in the morning or at night, not during the heat of the day.
- Use a sharp knife and bring a bucket of lukewarm water to the flower bed; cut diagonally through the stalks and place in the bucket.
- Cut stalks with only one or two open flowers. The rest of the buds will open after you put them in a vase. Leave at least four leaves on the plant in the ground if you want to reuse the corms.
- Place the bucket with the flowers in a cool dark place for a few hours before arranging them in a vase.
- Remove lower fading flowers and cut about 1 inch off the bottom of each flower stalk every few days.
Types
Gladioli come in a variety of sizes and colors, with the most popular being part of the following hybrid groups:
- Grandiflora Hybrids: These are the classic gladioli that produce a plentiful amount of large (5- to 6-inch) blooms in a range of colors. The plants produce flower stalks that reach up to 4 feet in height and can be winter hardy to Zone 7.
- Dwarf Grandiflora Hybrids: These miniature glads are an excellent choice for containers and cutting gardens, as their flowers are about half the size of Grandifloras, and their shorter stalks don’t typically require staking. They are also winter hardy to Zone 7. Glamini gladioli are included in this group; they are pest-resistant and will bloom in full sun or partial shade.
- Nanus Hybrids: Hardy to Zone 5, these smaller gladioli look a lot like Grandifloras, but do not produce as many flowers. They tend to grow no larger than about 2 feet in height, which makes them perfect for containers or small spaces.
Some specific gladiolus varieties of note include:
- ‘Black Star’ has deep purple-red blooms.
- ‘Candyman’ is known for its beautiful, deep pink flowers.
- ‘Costa’ sports ruffled flowers in blue-purple.
- ‘Dream’s End’ makes a good background plant because its flower spike is up to 3 feet tall (and it has pretty light orange flowers with large yellow centers).
- ‘Fun Time’ has yellow flowers edged with red.
- ‘Green Time’ is grown for its unusual lime-green flowers.
- ‘Prins Claus’ has white flowers with splashes of pink on its petals.
- ‘Priscilla’ produces off-white flowers with a yellow center and a pink edge.
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Comments
In May of this year (2016), the response to this question indicates that ph level may indeed affect bloom color.
Hello! I have planted I would say at least 100 Gladioli bulbs this spring! I am happy to say almost all of the bulbs flourished, flowered and are doing wonderfully! I noticed that once the flower has gone, a kind of bulgy pod starts to grow where the flower was on the stalk. What are these little pods? Do Gladioli also produce seeds? I live in Illinois. I do not know what the USDA zone is for my area. I have read that you do not need to dig up the Gladioli as long as they are protected from the frost with a layer of mulch. Should I dig them all up? Your responses are so appreciated!! Thank you!
It is handy to know what zone you live in when purchasing plants. Illinois is a big state and the plant hardiness zones range from 5a in the very northwest corner to 7a at the southernmost tip. Unless you live along the Kentucky border your winters would probably be too cold for your glads to successfully winter over in the garden.
Glads do produce seeds in those pods. Save the seeds and try planting them next spring. It will take several years of digging and replanting the corms before they produce a corm large enough to blossom.
Thank you! It was a beginner's mistake not to know my own hardiness zone. Now it is something I MUST check before purchasing. I am a novice gardener, this being my second actual year of gardening. I live in Zone 5a, so now I realize how much work is involved with the amount of Gladioli I have. I have to dig them all up. I will most likely end up selling them because they are healthy and robust but cannot survive the winter in the ground in my zone. It's a little too much work for me. Ive purchased some new bulbs for fall planting to replace the Glads and made sure they were hardy to my zone. I bought some Lycoris Squamigera, the most cold-hardy of the Amaryllis family! So excited for these so called "naked ladies". Thank you for the advice! I appreciate it.
I bought a lot of spring bulbs this year. However, I never got around to planting them. I have glads, calla lillies, lilly of the valley and spring mix bulbs. Have I lost them all. Can I plant them now? Help! What should I do??
If you live in a region with cold winters you can plant the lily of the valley and any spring-flowering bulbs (tulip, daffodil, crocus etc.) in the fall. The glads and calla lily bulbs will not survive freezing temperatures. If the bulbs look OK you can save them and plant in the spring. The calla lily bulbs can be planted in pots and kept indoors during the cold months.
Hi everyone im wondering if someone can help. Ive grown a around thirty gladioli this year and many have grown really well, most around 4.5ft high. Ive just recently cut the flower stalks and all is well,however ive come across 3 seperate ones that have grown 2 flower stalks. A pink one has a small secondary sstalk consisting of 3 flower buds, a green one with 5 flower buds which is much thicker/longer and a pure white one that has 6flower buds. I suppose im wondering is this normal as i havent read anywhere suggesting it is or could be. And could i take some special measures to take extra care of these 3 once pulled? Thanks for any help guys.
A few of my Gladioli had 2 flower stalks also!! I found one orange and yellow one that produced 3 stalks!! I would say it should mean our plants are healthy and doing well. The flowers, produce the plant's pollen which allows them to reproduce. It could be that these Gladioli of ours will make tons of baby bulbs this year. Also, pruning is healthy for the plant. I was cutting the stalks off once the flowers faded. Pruning promotes new growth with most plants. Maybe this is why some of them grew extra stalks?
Thanks for the info. Ive found with mine that the secondary stalks had already grown an inch or so by the time the first flower had bloomed, either way im happy :) my partner has already dug some up as theyve started to go brown and weve a solid 40 babys already, only another 20 more to pull up (healthiest ones to)
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There are very few flowers that are a true blue color. Many varieties that are called blue have purple or pink hues mixed in. We don't think that the pH of your soil has anything to do with the color change. There are a few causes for color change, older corms sometimes change color over time and a couple of viruses can also cause color change in glads.