Types
Gladioli come in a variety of sizes and colors, with the most popular being part of the following hybrid groups:
- Grandiflora Hybrids: These are the classic gladioli that produce a plentiful amount of large (5- to 6-inch) blooms in a range of colors. The plants produce flower stalks that reach up to 4 feet in height and can be winter hardy to Zone 7.
- Dwarf Grandiflora Hybrids: These miniature glads are an excellent choice for containers and cutting gardens, as their flowers are about half the size of Grandifloras, and their shorter stalks don’t typically require staking. They are also winter hardy to Zone 7. Glamini gladioli are included in this group; they are pest-resistant and will bloom in full sun or partial shade.
- Nanus Hybrids: Hardy to Zone 5, these smaller gladioli look a lot like Grandifloras, but do not produce as many flowers. They tend to grow no larger than about 2 feet in height, which makes them perfect for containers or small spaces.
Some specific gladiolus varieties of note include:
- ‘Black Star’ has deep purple-red blooms.
- ‘Candyman’ is known for its beautiful, deep pink flowers.
- ‘Costa’ sports ruffled flowers in blue-purple.
- ‘Dream’s End’ makes a good background plant because its flower spike is up to 3 feet tall (and it has pretty light orange flowers with large yellow centers).
- ‘Fun Time’ has yellow flowers edged with red.
- ‘Green Time’ is grown for its unusual lime-green flowers.
- ‘Prins Claus’ has white flowers with splashes of pink on its petals.
- ‘Priscilla’ produces off-white flowers with a yellow center and a pink edge.
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Comments
The size of the corm is directly related to the size of the flower and height of the plant; you must have planted the large type! It's not at all uncommon for glads to bend under their own weight, especially when they are in the ground; stakes are recommended. This is also one reason that glads are often cut to be used in vases; they display better there. The bend, or droop, that you describe at the top/s is likely due to disease in the plant but could be the result of wind damage. If it's disease, this could be botrytis blight, which can be the result ofo watering from above and creating standing water/slow drainage or cool, damp weather. This is best avoided if healthy corms are planted in rich, well-draining soil in sunlight. See above for other considerations.
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Hi Davis,
Since gladiolus grow from corms, they produce new offsets throughout the growing season. The strongest hybrids will eventually crowd out the original varieties that you planted. The way to avoid this problem is to dig up the corms once every year or two in the fall and separate the new growth offsets. Plant the offset corms elsewhere and see what color blooms they produce the following year; if the blooms are colors that you like, replant the offset corms in your main gladiolus patch. We hope this helps!