Hydrangea Care
Watering
- For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water.
- Water at a rate of 1 inch per week throughout the growing season. It’s better to deeply water 3 times a week than sprinkle water in a shallow manner. This encourages root growth.
- Bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas require more water, but all varieties benefit from consistent moisture.
- Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry, and flowering will be hampered by a lack of water.
- Use a soaker hose to water deeply and keep moisture off the flowers and leaves.
- It’s best to water in the morning to prepare hydrangeas for the the heat of the day and to avoid disease.
- Add organic mulch underneath your hydrangeas to help keep the soil moist and cool, add nutrients over time, and improve soil texture.
Fertilizing
If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. The best way to determine your fertility needs is by using a soil test.
Apply fertilizer based on your specific hydrangeas. Each variety has different needs and will benefit from different application timing.
- Bigleaf hydrangeas can benefit from several light fertilizer applications in March, May and June.
- Oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas do best with two applications in April and June.
- Smooth hydrangea plants only need fertilization once, in late winter.
Winter protection
- In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they tend to mat when wet and can suffocate the plant.)
How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers
It is possible to change the flowers’ colors, but not instantly. Color correction takes weeks—even months. Wait until the plant is at least 2 years old to give it time to recover from the shock of its original planting. Also note that it’s easier to change blue flowers to pink than pink to blue.
It’s not every hydrangea that changes color. The color of some Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)—especially Mophead and Lacecap types—and H. serrata cultivars change color based on the soil pH.
Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 produce pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.
See How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers for more information.
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of our readers’ questions involve pruning hydrangeas. And no wonder—it’s confusing, and all depends on the variety of hydrangea. Luckily, as long as you know which type you’ve got, it’s easy to figure out what sort of pruning technique to employ.
Learn the essentials below, then read more about how to prune hydrangea varieties here.
| Hydrangea Type |
When to Prune |
Where Flowers Appear |
|---|
| Bigleaf (H. macrophylla) |
Summer, after flowering |
On old growth |
| Oakleaf (H. quercifolia) |
Summer, after flowering |
On old growth |
| Panicle (H. paniculata) |
Late winter, before spring growth |
On new growth |
| Smooth (H. arborescens) |
Late winter, before spring growth |
On new growth |
| Mountain (H. serrata) |
Summer, after flowering |
On old growth |
| Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) |
Summer, after flowering |
On old growth |
Pruning Common Hydrangeas
The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, Hydrangea macrophylla. (See more below.)
Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) are pruned AFTER the flowers fade in the summer. These varieties bloom on the previous season’s stems (“old wood”).
- Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
- Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
- To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
- If the plant is old, neglected, or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also rejuvenate the plant for future years.
- It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big Mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the Lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
- When growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) varieties in Zones 4 and 5, do not prune unless absolutely necessary, and then do so immediately after blooming. Otherwise, remove only dead stem in the spring.
Other Hydrangeas
Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas are pruned BEFORE flower buds are formed. These varieties bloom on the current season’s stems (“new wood”).
- Prune in the late winter when the plant is dormant. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, the plant will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
- In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.
Read more about how to prune hydrangea types.
Reader Comments
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Frost bitten hydrangea
I live in zone 5 and have 3 hydrangeas. They are about 3 years old. All three had new green shoots on them this Spring, then we had a late frost. 2 of the plants seemed to have gotten frozen as their green buds have turned brown. Will the plants survive? There is still a little green starting... but very sparse.
Hydrangea as a plant
I was given a Hydrangea as a plant. How do I prune the dead flowers off? Can I keep it as indoor plant? Thank you
new hydrangea
You can remove dead flowers (called “dead heading”) with scissors or a sharp knife. Hydrangeas are really outdoor plants and grow best in soil outside. Note that is this plant was one of many that was “forced” (made to bloom in a hothouse) for early spring flowers that appeal to us all this time of year, it might be challenged to survive under the best of conditions, indoors or outside. So if you can not plant it, enjoy it indoors for as long as you can.
Hydrangea
I was late getting cuttings of a hydrangea. They seem to root well but it is now Nov. 27 th. and they are still in their starter pots. They seem to be dying off. Should I have hardened them off sooner, meaning I should have rooted them earlier. I am in P.E.I. Canada, in a 5a zone. What can I do to save them or is it too late? Help!!!
Mop head hydrangeas
I have 3 and only one blooms. The 3 are all planted in the same area. They are all the same size and beautiful green plants. Why don’t the other two flower.?
Blooming hydrangeas
I have four plants which were planted from Easter flowers. They grow back every year (three years) but I only get one or two flowers on two of the plants. ( zone 5). The others have not bloomed. How can I get more flowers and on all the plants?
What to do
I have a beautiful pink hydrangea that I bought a couple of years ago. I planted it next to a white hydrangea that blooms profusely every spring but the pink one has only ever produced one head. It otherwise is doing very well. What am I doing wrong? I don't know whether to cut it back or leave it alone. Unfortunately, I lost the card that came with it telling what kind of hydrangea it is.
Growing hydrangeas
Can hydrangeas be grown in pots and brought inside during winter. I live in southern New Jersey.
potted hydrangeas
We tend to plant potted hydrangea in the garden as they prefer to be in the ground but you could grow indoors with the right steps. Pinch back the shoots no later than July. Keep the pots outdoors as long as possible in the fall, but bring indoors before a hard freeze. Allow the plant to retain its leaves until about November 1st. Then, pick off all the leaves by hand or put the plant in total darkness until all leaves drop naturally. The leafless plant must be vernalized (exposed to cool temperatures) in order to induce subsequent flowering. This involves keeping it at temperatures from 35 to 40 degrees F for about six weeks. During this time, the plant can be kept dry since it has no leaves. After the cooling period, move the plant to a sunny, cool room, with night temperatures of 55 to 60 degrees F. Water it well and fertilize about every two weeks. It should flower in about four months.
If you wish, you could then plant potted hydrangeas in the garden for years of enjoyment. Wait until the danger of frost has past and make sure to water the plant regularly until it is established in the garden.
Hydrangea color
My hydrangea started the season with large dark blue flowers It is a mop head and probably 10 + years old The flowers are no longer turning any color They are big and in good shape but no color Do you have any idea what may be causing this ?
blue hydrangea color
Nearly all mopheads considered to have the ability to change bloom color. The color is determined by aluminum availability, which in turn is based on the soil pH. When the soil/substrate pH is acidic (4.5 – 5.5), the color can be expected to be blue because aluminum is generally highly available in a low pH. When the soil/substrate pH ranges from 5.5 to 6.5, flowers may be pink, blue or lavender, or a mixture of pink and blue flowers may be present on the same plant. The flower color is not permanent. The color will ultimately be dependent on the soil pH of the landscape into which they are eventually planted.
Hydrangea
Thank you so much for your helpful reply.
white snowball hydrangeas in Florida
I live in Orlando, Florida (zone 9) and am wondering if white snowball hydrangeas from my father's home in Delaware will grow and thrive if I transplant them. They have bloomed prolifically for the past 40 years or more. Last fall they were cut back to the ground, but new little ones are coming up now (June). I am visiting, and would to take some back to Orlando with me.
hydrangea hardiness
Hi, Michelle. If the hydrangea is an ‘Annabelle’ snowball, then there is a good chance it will survive in zone 9.
Rhizomes Spread Uncontrollable
When we bought our house there was a very large, old hydrangea in the front flower bed. The rhizomes spread terribly and had overtaken the garden as well as growing underneath our sun porch. We decided to pull the plant out last summer and start over. I was recently gifted with a Hydrangea Mycrophylla. Will this variety do the same thing?
Hydrangeas
Nothing was said about when or if you can move a adult plant, I am moving my flower bed this year and I have been wondering when its safe to move my Hydrangea. Its about 4 years old. Do you have the answer for me?
Transplanting Hydrangeas
Transplanting is best done when the plant is dormant, so either in the early spring or in the fall. If you live in an area with harsh winters, spring is best.
Transplanting can also be done in the summer, but you will need to provide the plant with plenty of water and it is almost guaranteed to wilt, but should recover with time.
Plant zones
What zone is 39470 in
Planting Zones
You are in Zone 8b. See the USDA Plant Hardiness Zones map here: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/
Hydragenas
I live in So California, do these plants die off for the winter? I planted 3 plants and 1 seems to have died off. The other 2 still have some leaves but are looking bad.
So. Cal. hydrangeas
We live in Manhattan Beach and planted three 5 gallon hydrangeas years ago in partial sun. First problems showed up in a little time with wilted and stunted leaves/stems - looking really bad. I didn't know that hydrangeas (and azaleas and gardenias and fuchsias and others) do best in acidic soil - which is NOT Manhattan Beach. So I dug a large 6"-8" wide ditch around the hydrangeas to the bottom (and lower) of the root ball, and add an acid enhanced planting mix (that I can't find anymore, btw). That helped, and repeated monthly feeding with Miracid also helped. But the biggest gain was when I pruned back the stems severely last fall - now they are lusciously growing. I keep feeding Miracid monthly.
Hydrangea in Zone 5
Can i plant my hydrangea now in September?
We have had our first hard frost,and the plant has been outside since May. It has big leaves and pink flowers,thats all i know about the plant.
I have sandy soil .I would just plant it without taking anything off,and mulch with pine needles.
I purchased it last year from a grocery store,and kept it on a shelf in front of window, now its to big and heavy pot for that,could i plant it now ie keep it in my garage? Thank you from Wisconsin
plant in Sept?
We think that the best place for this plant is in the garage or basement for the winter. Occasionally give it a few spoonfuls of water.
In the spring, improve your soil with compost and peat moss. Check the pH (see above for the desirable range). Your sandy soil will let water run through it, leaving the plant to dry out in all likelihood).
No blossoms
I have had my hydrangeas for three years now and no blossoms. The plant it self grows very big and green. I don't know what to do.
no blossoms
Without knowing what type/variety of plants you have we can only guess, but even that would not be certain: If it’s in shade and likes sun, it would not perform. It it doesn’t get sufficient water, it might not perform. Too high temps could influence them. Then there was this that I read in a recent Boston Globe edition: The question was similar to yours and the answer was, in sum, that some varieties are forced to flower by growers, shipped, then purchased by people in areas/communities where the plants would not normally flower anyway. Know at least that you are not alone in the dilemma.
HYDRANGEAS
HELP - i HAVE COME HOME FROM HOLIDAY TO FIND MY BEAUTIFUL HYDRANGEAS HAVE TAKEN OVER MY GARDEN!!!!!! CAN SOMEONE PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF IT IS SAFE TO CUT BACK SOME OF THE STEMS AT THIS TIME OF YEAR. WE ARE HOPING TO MOVE NEXT YEAR AND DESPERATELY WANT TO TAKE SOME OF MY HYDRANGEAS WITH ME - ANY HELP ON THAT PLEASE
pruning tips
Try this: https://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/garden-journal/when-prune-differe...
You should be able to lift and move them.
Hydrageas
I have two plants that have not bloomed since first year. One beside them blooms fantastic. Any suggestions to get "lazy ones" back on track?
no blossoms
Rather like the writer two Qs up, without knowing what type/variety of plants you have we can only guess, but even that would not be certain: If it’s in shade and likes sun, it would not perform. It it doesn’t get sufficient water, it might not perform. Too high temps could influence them. It’s a common dilemma.
Hydrangea look diseased
I have a row of hydrangea that may get more sunlight than needed. By August they usually look pretty dried out with the flowers brown and plant looking pretty sad. But this year almost all the leaves are gone and it looks like the plant is more than dry but diseased. I'm thinking I may need to remove the hydrangeas as they are getting to much sun. Do you think its too much sun or could it be a disease?
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