Hydrangea Care
Watering
- For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water.
- Water at a rate of 1 inch per week throughout the growing season. It’s better to deeply water 3 times a week than sprinkle water in a shallow manner. This encourages root growth.
- Bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas require more water, but all varieties benefit from consistent moisture.
- Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry, and flowering will be hampered by a lack of water.
- Use a soaker hose to water deeply and keep moisture off the flowers and leaves.
- It’s best to water in the morning to prepare hydrangeas for the the heat of the day and to avoid disease.
- Add organic mulch underneath your hydrangeas to help keep the soil moist and cool, add nutrients over time, and improve soil texture.
Fertilizing
If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. The best way to determine your fertility needs is by using a soil test.
Apply fertilizer based on your specific hydrangeas. Each variety has different needs and will benefit from different application timing.
- Bigleaf hydrangeas can benefit from several light fertilizer applications in March, May and June.
- Oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas do best with two applications in April and June.
- Smooth hydrangea plants only need fertilization once, in late winter.
Winter protection
- In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw in the fall. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they tend to mat when wet and can suffocate the plant.)
How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers
It is possible to change the flowers’ colors, but not instantly. Color correction takes weeks—even months. Wait until the plant is at least 2 years old to give it time to recover from the shock of its original planting. Also note that it’s easier to change blue flowers to pink than pink to blue.
It’s not every hydrangea that changes color. The color of some Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)—especially Mophead and Lacecap types—and H. serrata cultivars change color based on the soil pH.
Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 produce pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.
See How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers for more information.
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of our readers’ questions involve pruning hydrangeas. And no wonder—it’s confusing, and all depends on the variety of hydrangea. Luckily, as long as you know which type you’ve got, it’s easy to figure out what sort of pruning technique to employ.
Learn the essentials below, then read more about how to prune hydrangea varieties here.
| Hydrangea Type |
When to Prune |
Where Flowers Appear |
|---|
| Bigleaf (H. macrophylla) |
Summer, after flowering |
On old growth |
| Oakleaf (H. quercifolia) |
Summer, after flowering |
On old growth |
| Panicle (H. paniculata) |
Late winter, before spring growth |
On new growth |
| Smooth (H. arborescens) |
Late winter, before spring growth |
On new growth |
| Mountain (H. serrata) |
Summer, after flowering |
On old growth |
| Climbing (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) |
Summer, after flowering |
On old growth |
Pruning Common Hydrangeas
The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, Hydrangea macrophylla. (See more below.)
Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), Oakleaf (H. quercifolia), Mountain (H. serrata), and Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) are pruned AFTER the flowers fade in the summer. These varieties bloom on the previous season’s stems (“old wood”).
- Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
- Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
- To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
- If the plant is old, neglected, or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also rejuvenate the plant for future years.
- It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big Mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the Lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
- When growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) varieties in Zones 4 and 5, do not prune unless absolutely necessary, and then do so immediately after blooming. Otherwise, remove only dead stem in the spring.
Other Hydrangeas
Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas are pruned BEFORE flower buds are formed. These varieties bloom on the current season’s stems (“new wood”).
- Prune in the late winter when the plant is dormant. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, the plant will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
- In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.
Read more about how to prune hydrangea types.
Reader Comments
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hydrangea hardiness
Hi, Michelle. If the hydrangea is an ‘Annabelle’ snowball, then there is a good chance it will survive in zone 9.
Rhizomes Spread Uncontrollable
When we bought our house there was a very large, old hydrangea in the front flower bed. The rhizomes spread terribly and had overtaken the garden as well as growing underneath our sun porch. We decided to pull the plant out last summer and start over. I was recently gifted with a Hydrangea Mycrophylla. Will this variety do the same thing?
Hydrangeas
Nothing was said about when or if you can move a adult plant, I am moving my flower bed this year and I have been wondering when its safe to move my Hydrangea. Its about 4 years old. Do you have the answer for me?
Transplanting Hydrangeas
Transplanting is best done when the plant is dormant, so either in the early spring or in the fall. If you live in an area with harsh winters, spring is best.
Transplanting can also be done in the summer, but you will need to provide the plant with plenty of water and it is almost guaranteed to wilt, but should recover with time.
Plant zones
What zone is 39470 in
Planting Zones
You are in Zone 8b. See the USDA Plant Hardiness Zones map here: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/
Hydragenas
I live in So California, do these plants die off for the winter? I planted 3 plants and 1 seems to have died off. The other 2 still have some leaves but are looking bad.
So. Cal. hydrangeas
We live in Manhattan Beach and planted three 5 gallon hydrangeas years ago in partial sun. First problems showed up in a little time with wilted and stunted leaves/stems - looking really bad. I didn't know that hydrangeas (and azaleas and gardenias and fuchsias and others) do best in acidic soil - which is NOT Manhattan Beach. So I dug a large 6"-8" wide ditch around the hydrangeas to the bottom (and lower) of the root ball, and add an acid enhanced planting mix (that I can't find anymore, btw). That helped, and repeated monthly feeding with Miracid also helped. But the biggest gain was when I pruned back the stems severely last fall - now they are lusciously growing. I keep feeding Miracid monthly.
Hydrangea in Zone 5
Can i plant my hydrangea now in September?
We have had our first hard frost,and the plant has been outside since May. It has big leaves and pink flowers,thats all i know about the plant.
I have sandy soil .I would just plant it without taking anything off,and mulch with pine needles.
I purchased it last year from a grocery store,and kept it on a shelf in front of window, now its to big and heavy pot for that,could i plant it now ie keep it in my garage? Thank you from Wisconsin
plant in Sept?
We think that the best place for this plant is in the garage or basement for the winter. Occasionally give it a few spoonfuls of water.
In the spring, improve your soil with compost and peat moss. Check the pH (see above for the desirable range). Your sandy soil will let water run through it, leaving the plant to dry out in all likelihood).
No blossoms
I have had my hydrangeas for three years now and no blossoms. The plant it self grows very big and green. I don't know what to do.
no blossoms
Without knowing what type/variety of plants you have we can only guess, but even that would not be certain: If it’s in shade and likes sun, it would not perform. It it doesn’t get sufficient water, it might not perform. Too high temps could influence them. Then there was this that I read in a recent Boston Globe edition: The question was similar to yours and the answer was, in sum, that some varieties are forced to flower by growers, shipped, then purchased by people in areas/communities where the plants would not normally flower anyway. Know at least that you are not alone in the dilemma.
HYDRANGEAS
HELP - i HAVE COME HOME FROM HOLIDAY TO FIND MY BEAUTIFUL HYDRANGEAS HAVE TAKEN OVER MY GARDEN!!!!!! CAN SOMEONE PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF IT IS SAFE TO CUT BACK SOME OF THE STEMS AT THIS TIME OF YEAR. WE ARE HOPING TO MOVE NEXT YEAR AND DESPERATELY WANT TO TAKE SOME OF MY HYDRANGEAS WITH ME - ANY HELP ON THAT PLEASE
pruning tips
Try this: https://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/garden-journal/when-prune-differe...
You should be able to lift and move them.
Hydrageas
I have two plants that have not bloomed since first year. One beside them blooms fantastic. Any suggestions to get "lazy ones" back on track?
no blossoms
Rather like the writer two Qs up, without knowing what type/variety of plants you have we can only guess, but even that would not be certain: If it’s in shade and likes sun, it would not perform. It it doesn’t get sufficient water, it might not perform. Too high temps could influence them. It’s a common dilemma.
Hydrangea look diseased
I have a row of hydrangea that may get more sunlight than needed. By August they usually look pretty dried out with the flowers brown and plant looking pretty sad. But this year almost all the leaves are gone and it looks like the plant is more than dry but diseased. I'm thinking I may need to remove the hydrangeas as they are getting to much sun. Do you think its too much sun or could it be a disease?
dry or diseased?
Being in the hot sun all day is probably taking its toll. Above (and below) we suggest that most hydrangeas do best in morning sun and afternoon shade/partial shade. You don’t mention water. Are they getting water? Lack of it would take a toll on any plant. Dig down with your hands/fingers and see how deep you have to go before you feel damp soil; that might be an indication of whether they are dry. As for disease, it’s hard to know from this vantage point.
My hydrangea in my garden is
My hydrangea in my garden is quite old but still produces a lot of white flowers every year however last year and this year the flowers turned brown and looked dead, what do you think this happened?
dead-looking flowers
Most of the times this happens it’s due to too hot sun, not enough shade and waaaay too little water. You should water deeply. It will not brig the brown flowers back but it will relieve the plant.
Honeysuckle
when should I cut them down from my trellis as they are getting out of hand now and one side of the trellis did not have any flowers - why?
Limelight Hydrangeas Tree
My tree has beautiful flowers on it but it is drooping. Is this because of the heavy flowers or, could there be another reason?
Drooping
That is the most likely reason for drooping branches, especially if it has been raining recently. If it has been unusually dry in your area and the leaves themselves are drooping, you ought to give your hydrangea a bit of water at the base of the plant to perk it back up.
Cannot see the blooms
I have a beautiful bush with huge flowers, however my problem is, I cannot see the blooms as the leaves have grown over and taller than the blooms. Can I trim it up a bit?
blooms are buried in the leaves
Without knowing more about the type of hydrangea it is hard to say whether pruning would be wise. See above; pruning now alter next year’s bloom season.
scorching of leaves
Recently I planted Hydrengea in a pot. plant is established but the leaves have been scorching from the edges. some of the leaves are half burnt (dried). We have rainy season and weather is cloudy. Will you please tell me how to overcome this problem so that leaves remain green and don't dry up.
scorched leaves
We can’t be certain. but it could be Cercospora leaf spot which is a disease caused by the fungus Cercospora hydrangeae. This occurs in warm weather with frequent rain. Make sure that the soil is well draining and the plant is in a place in which the air circulates well. Consult a nursery about a fungicide for ornamental plants. If possible, bring the plant into the nursery and see if they identify the problem as something else.
Hydrangeas
How do you get hydrangeas to bloom? Mine rarely blooms. Do you think it is a pruning issue?
Hydrangeas not blooming
There are several reasons why hydrangeas won’t bloom. First, they do need some sunlight to set flowers—so if yours are in total shade, that could be limiting flowering.
Also, many people prune hydrangeas incorrectly, cutting down the old stems which is where some varieties set buds! See our article on when to prune different hydrangeas: https://www.almanac.com/news/gardening/gardening-advice/when-prune-different-kinds-hydrangeas
Finally, in any year with a late frost, hydrangea buds can get frozen; that means no blooms for the year. Hope this helps.
Planting hydrangeas
I bought a hydrangea & started it in a pot. It is growing & I was wondering if it would be wise to plant in ground in the fall in zone 8
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